African Adventure 5

12-03-07

Syr, the transporter, had gone to several trainees host homes to pick up their luggage, because the other five trainees were biking to OHG, and couldn't carry everything as they moved out of Somyaga. Then he came after me, and all my belongings. The SUV was loaded to the brim. By the time we arrived at ECLA the tech class was half over. The technical training was on the “bridge to post”, meaning from here (training) to there (our placement).

In the late morning, we were each scheduled to be interviewed by Thierry, the PC training program director. When it was my turn I brought my program evaluation on the classes and teachers, but it wasn't done and he just said OK. Then he started giving me my evaluation, which took me by surprise. He said I did excellent in everything, but in language I am not at the mid-intermediate level yet (one step below). He went on to say that the staff had made a recommendation and the Country Director agreed that I could be sworn in with everyone else on Friday.

I started crying! I had prepared myself that I would swear in after I reached level, but “Oh my!” I signed my evaluation and left. As soon as I saw Linda, I cried again. Then I saw the other trainees from my village and yes, I cried again. They all hugged me and said they knew I would get to be in the ceremony Friday, to which I replied “I didn't know that.” They said I was the only one who didn't know it then. They added everyone knows it isn't from lack of effort! I went to my room and had a big cry. Dr. Claude called me on the phone and asked to see me. When I sat down with her she said Thierry spoke to her, and I recapped the meeting for her. She wisely asked me “Were they tears of joy or sadness?”

In the afternoon session Dr. Claude met with all of the health sector and gave us her expectations for the first three months in village along with the forms for quarterly reports, etc.

I was on the phone with Angie at dusk by the front gate, when my host family sisters all showed up from their boarding school in OHG to my training center, ECLA. We walked across the street to the tailor for a fitting of my swear-in dress. The teen sisters loved the two piece turquoise and white dress with a pintade pattern. It needs some altering but I am happy with it, especially the neckline of hand stitched pintades.

12-04-07

The first block was language with JZ and after introductory sentences were exchanged, we did Passe' Compose' (past tense verbs). Then we studied reflexive. In French they add a word before the verb to show it is an action the person took themselves.

The next session was led by the Administrative Officer, Sheila, who explained how we would be paid, get a checking account, moving-in money, etc. She also talked about the logistics of the move next Friday to villages.

In the afternoon Dr. Jean Luc gave a session on medical information every volunteer must know for their own personal health. We retook a test and self corrected it as a group.

That was followed by a class Marily, the Country Director herself led on the PCV handbook with all the do's and don't (s). The cold sodas she distributed helped that all go down easier. There are really three big rules you get sent home for breaking: 1) riding a motorbike without clearance 2) not wearing a helmet when riding your bicycle and 3) leaving the country without permission. Another obvious thing is to stay neutral on politics.

Marily spoke to Melissa and me after class about her consent that we would get to swear in Friday with everyone else. We will be given a test after another week of French and that will determine when we each go to our village. Her parting advise was to practice speaking in French as much as possible.

12-05-07

We had a vaccination campaign in the village of Kitou, a bit north of the turnoff for Somyaga. When Syr drove the six of us there, Jean Francais was already there with another RN plus his assistant. Women with infants were lined up in the village center under a tree getting shots. A short time later we all walked aways to the primary school, where two classes with their teachers and the principal came out. I identified with the tall professional female teacher, who was dressed in BF dress and heels for her job, located in the country with red earth everywhere.

One trainee wrote the date and type of vaccination on the yellow card. I put myself next to the children, helping them with sleeves, etc. When the child cries or winces about the shots, the adults scold them, everyone parents the children here. We took a couple pictures of the group of us. (See photos.) Then we walked to the village marche', where I found a dust mask made of fabric, which I really wanted.

I walked across the street from ECLA to the tailor's and picked up my dress, fit very nicely by the lady tailor. I found turquoise flip flops to match. After an afternoon of language class, we all were very excited that our tee shirts had arrived, artwork done by the two art majors in our group of stagierres.

The next day at French class, JZ and I reviewed the two exercises using “Qu' est ce que” and “Est-ce que”. They are two forms of starting a sentence that is a question in French. He let me off for the afternoon to study privately and also get packed for two days in Ouaga for the swearing in ceremony, which is Friday. The second day is set aside for shopping for large items we need to ship to our village sites, when our big luggage goes there in a week or so.

12-07-07 Swearing In Day to become Peace Corps Volunteers

As we pulled away from OHG, our training center for the past two months and headed for the big event in Ouaga, we 34 trainees were all very excited, reflected by the noise level. I was tapped on the shoulder next to where my MP3 player was in my ear, to a comment “We asked the bus driver to turn down the radio and now we hear you singing!” to which everyone started laughing around me.

After the two hour ride we hailed a taxi and went to the Nazemse hotel, nice but simple. We paired up for rooms and went to lunch. Becky and I went to the post office, which doubles for a bank. I got to watch as Becky wrote a check for the moving-in allowance PC set up for us. The PO is on a big main route in the capitol, and in front are lots of little boutiques. There I found wood carved-an African mask for Luke and a petite family of elephants for Kellen, both my grandsons have birthdays this month.

I also found carmelita stone earrings to match the ring Bob gave me seven years ago. They will go great with my African dress tonight. Becky found BF colors in a beaded necklace and bracelet she liked. We lounged a bit in the afternoon, and I put my bangs in bobby pins for a new look, as we began readying for the ceremony. By four in the afternoon we were all ready and began showing off our African attire to each other. Excitement was in the air!

Peace Corps had arranged for cars to drive us to the American Ambassador's home, where her back yard was set up for the ceremony under several large leafy trees and next to the pool. An African group was drumming and playing stringed instruments next to the small stage. We took many pictures at the rather grand entrance to the compound, as the well kept grounds were a great backdrop for our colorful attire. The eight male volunteers were equally brilliant in their tailored African clothing. But the women, all 26 of us were outstanding! See photos.

When the last of the invited dignitaries arrived, we trainees filled the first rows of chairs in front of the stage on either side. There were words of praise and encouragement from Thierry, the head of the training program and Marily, the PC Country Director. Then eight members of our class gave small speeches in French and seven tribal languages they had recently learned. Laughter erupted from the BF audience at times, as they are very happy with our effort to speak their tongues! This was followed by words from Jeanine Jackson, the American Ambassador and also from the Minister of Health of Burkina Faso.

Then our group was presented, we stood and repeated the oath, swearing in to the Peace Corps of the United States of America! It was exhilarating and the culmination of much work. You could feel the tension dissipate as we cheered and clapped. The refreshments were elegant: three grand cakes, each with a flag, US, BF and PC; and a bar in the back corner of the yard, which stayed busy all evening, and best of all the hors-d'oeuvres were being passed on huge trays by servers milling through the crowd.

Presently there was a tap on my shoulder, I was summoned to personally meet the Minister of Health. My reputation of senior volunteer, preceded me. I have found that age is very respected in this country. It was an exciting moment. Syr congratulated me, as did many of the language training staff, JZ, Theo, Bintou, and Patrice. I found Dr. Claude and Sylvie, RN, both at the top of our health program. A big group picture was taken, followed by one of the two groups and their respective managers, Small Enterprise Development and Health (Santee). See photos.

A short distance from our hotel was the bowling alley, where we had the party afterwards. It was a 5 lane alley, with electric pin setters, that worked about 75% of the time, and a dance floor and refreshment area, where a keg and snacks were. We all were giddy, we were so happy. Natalie was dancing with Rob and asked if I knew “the Swing” and I said “Sure!” Next thing I knew I was dancing with Rob and the youngsters thought that was cool. I grew up in the 50s and that's what we did then!

Soon two guy PCVs, Jed and Rene', were chatting with me and asked if I wanted to get into a group to bowl. I thought I better throw a practice ball to see if I could do this given when the last time I bowled was and my arthritic knees. Jed had a PCV give me her second ball to throw, and I picked up her spare to everyone's amazement (none more than mine). I played a line with them and ended up in the middle of the pack. I nearly made 100. At midnight seven of us walked home happily.

Saturday was filled with shopping for our homes in village. I bought my propane stove top, my cutting board, my thick foam mattress and a canteen box to store food in, out of reach of critters and insects. I found a chair to sit down at the store part of the time, as my body was feeling the effects of the previous night's jubilation. That night I went to a Lebanese restaurant for excellent schwarma and hummus wraps. The seating was outdoors, and at some tables people appeared to be smoking from hash pipes. My education is not all occurring in the classroom.

When I met a bunch of new PCVs going out dancing, I declined their invitation, saying one night was a lot for this gramma and I was hitting the hay. The next day we boarded the bus at noon and returned to OHG for a full week of training with our Counterparts from each of our villages.

Beginning Monday we had full days of classes, two blocks of prep work for the Counterpart Workshop Wed and Thurs, and two blocks of French with JZ. We reviewed my last French homework, and covered the present tense of the er and ir verbs, plus the verb “faire”, to do/make. My favorite new expression is “French is difficile (pronounced difficeeel)!”

Monday evening I waited at the front gate for my host sisters. I walked over to the seamstress boutique across the street and visited there awhile. All of a sudden they came, Fatimata, Ramata, Stephanie, Mary Angela and Minata. We went to my room and visited and they looked at photos of themselves on my laptop. Becky came by to greet them. I gave Fatimata the information paper on the Moringa Tree to give to Amade, their father. It was delightful to see them all. As I walked them out to the front gate, we made a plan to meet again Tues after classes, and they would show me their school.

12-11-07 BF Independence Day

In the first block of the morning schedule, JZ and I went over some adverbs and time phrases. Because I had inquired about prepositions, we focused on a', which has lots of uses in French language. The next block was Vini, Solomon and Siaka talking to us about the history of Burkina Faso and why today is celebrated by so many people. It was interesting and informative.

Then we broke into small groups and worked out our assigned parts to present the Peace Corps and its three goals to our counterparts at the upcoming workshop. In my group Laura and Matthew took the lead and divided the discussion into short presentations by each of us when our turn comes the next day. I spent over an hour at the internet. When I returned, there was Fatimata and Mary Angela waiting for me as promised. I got my flashlight and followed them south out of OHG on the main road to a lycee (secondary school). The girls showed me their classrooms and also Ramata's. The janitor kindly turned on the power and the lights came on so I could see dozens of three seat desks and blackboards full of chalk writings. I took a few pictures. See Facebook.

In a small area of the school grounds, women were in a kitchen preparing the evening meal for the boys who board at the school. Groups of boys tried their English out on me. They wanted me to stay and eat with them, but since I was the guest of my host sisters and they weren't included in the invitation, I declined. We did walk over to a separate area, where the dining was about to commence, and in typical fashion boys were swarming the serving counter. The noise level matched their eagerness for food.

We got on our bikes in the dark by then, and my host sisters insisted on riding clear back to ECLA with me, who had a flashlight and they who had no light. I swear Africans have 20-20 night vision. They literally see in the dark!

Wednesday & Thursday- Counterpart Workshop

We spent two days working and eating together. Each health volunteer had a person from their assigned village present. They came from all over Burkina Faso and were lodged in a nearby hotel. Vini did an excellent job leading this conference with diplomacy and a sense of humor. He was very handsome in his suits both days. It came time to do our little presentation, and after I gave the intro for our group, everyone clapped. I suspect my struggle with the language prompted that.
Next we did a familiar warm up exercise. We interviewed each other and presented our counterpart to the whole group. I almost forgot to say Gansonre, Moussa was a certified nurse, but slipped it in at the end. Gansonre appears to be a serious perhaps shy 28 year old, who says he likes talking with people and he likes honesty. His expectation is good collaboration. Our program manager, Dr. Claude was here for the entire two day workshop, and she is very well liked and received by everyone. She truly bridges the gap.

All of the counterparts are part of their village's health system in some role. Some of the guys there were so funny and real leaders, esp a short witty guy, who had everyone laughing and another handsome guy, who was drafted to lead a clapping, clicking routine; a salute pointing his thumbs rapidly in different directions and clapping in between. Then the audience tried it. It was a riot.

Some time during the morning session of the last day they sandwiched in my final test with Theo. My level stayed the same, so I was slated for an additional week of French. As we finished our workshop Gansonre asked Vini something about communication and my limited French and Vini responded that I would come later, after more language. (I was embarrassed.)

The training program director, Thierry, gave me three options: stay in Ouaga with a host family for a week, stay at a hotel, or go to stay at a mission at Koudougou, which will be my regional capitol eventually and I chose the latter. All the choices of course came with a tutor. Thierry said I could pick my teacher, but I deferred to his judgment on that. Later that afternoon JZ talked to me and said he would be my teacher and it would be an honor to do it. I almost cried as he is the director of the PC language program in BF. When I spotted Becky I did start crying from the pent up stress. I was also trying that day to get my blog and pictures into the flash drive, but struggled with it. Rob came by my room that evening and helped me. I went back and started packing up for our 6:30am departure for Ouaga in a bus Thierry had ordered for us and our Counterparts, as most of the pairs were then going to site together. When we arrived at Ouaga, to my surprise, Gansonre helped me with all my luggage, carrying it to the PC SUV and wiping the dust off my bags. He genuinely was helpful and we agreed I'd see him in a week or two.

Many people were at the transit house en route to somewhere else. It was near the holidays after all. Some PCVs were waiting for relatives coming to visit from the states, some were going home for Xmas, and some were done with service and going home for good. I went to the PC bureau for free use of the internet. Then a bunch of us got a taxi and went to the American Embassy Club for lunch. They have a reputation of the best chocolate shakes in Ouaga, and that proved true. The chimichanga was also very good.

At the bureau were two boxes for me, one from Lorraine and one from Angie. I opened them at the transit house, and what a treat! All the things I had asked for and then some. Clothes, vacuumed packed food, a bath towel, school supplies and hair things for the kids here, the quilt Sal made for me to give to a new baby and then I found the letter from Lexi and one from the instructor of Senior Sneakers. What a roller coaster ride my emotions have been on this month! The PCVs who were present loved seeing me open my boxes from home. Especially the homemade baby quilt from Sal.

On Saturday I took a taxi to town to go to the bank, get my glasses adjusted and mail some letters. I hung out at a French patisserie for coffee and croissants while working on my journal. It was so relaxing that I stayed until 2pm when they were closing for the weekend.

A cab stopped by the street to pick me up. Later it was clear that my first mistake was not setting the price initially. There was a woman in the front and two other passengers besides me in the back. He dropped them off somewhere, and picked up two other men from Cote' d'Ivorie. I spoke with them awhile, then the driver was headed for my section of town, Zone du Bois. I asked the price, knowing with a bike it is more, and he said one mil, two hundred francs. I said “No, that is too much!” We haggled over the rate. When we got close to my drop off point, the chauffeur refused the three hundred francs I offered him. I put it on the trunk, and he wouldn't touch it. Instead he grabbed for my backpack. The two men in the back seat got out and told me I should just pay him, that it wasn't going well. I had by then figured that out too. They mediated somewhat, and I gave him another 500 francs and he sped off! We were both angry. Luckily it was on a busy street corner in plain view of lots of other people.

12-16-07

JZ called me to say “Be down at the bus station before 1pm for the bus to take us to Koudougou.” I repacked all my things, taking just enough to get by a week in the regional capitol near where I would be placed. I enlisted the aid of a worker at the transit house to help me get my bags and bike up to the Charles de Gaul Blvd. I told the driver where I was to go, set the price, and gladly gave him his money upon delivery. The only problem turned out to be that there are several Gares with buses going to Koudougou. I was at one, and JZ ended up at another. By the time we figured that out, my stuff was loaded, the bus was loading, and the driver dropped down middle seats all down the aisle between the two stationary seats and I sat there two seats from the front. However by the time all the stand up passengers boarded along the way out of town, there was no view of the front window, much less what was beyond it. We were two thirds the way there when the puppy in the box on a woman's lap near the window woke from his nap, and let out a yip. I had to laugh as she shushed him. A cute pet for someone.

I text messaged Melissa, PCV stationed at Koudougou, who met me and helped me tie my stuff onto my bike with flat rubber straps, and away we went on the ride to “Petite Seminaire Notre Dame d' Afrique”, run by French nuns. The place is probably 50 years old and quiet, serene and serves three purposes: a seminary school for boys ages 10-20; a retreat center for groups of people; and a mineral springs water nutrients business. It was set on a big piece of property near the river and with plenty of lovely old trees harboring birds, singing and flitting from one branch to another. JZ arrived in another hour and soon went to visit his mother, who resides in this town. I ate in the common dining room and tried my French on whoever came in for the meal while I was there that week.

First thing Monday morning JZ and I set my learning schedule, with a formal lesson in the morning and afternoon and an informal one too. We would go to town and interact with merchants, etc. so I could practice speaking and then I would have personal study time as well. So Monday late morning we went to town, found the new Marche' in the center of town. I priced a lot of things I will need for my home. It was fun. At lunchtime we rode to a conference center set back off the main road by the lake. I ordered arachide (peanut) sauce over rice, it was excellent.

In the afternoon, JZ brought a tape with an interview of a trainee with pretty good French. Speaking it and writing it is not the same as hearing French. So it was good to practice listening and replaying it when I didn't get it. That evening when JZ went to his mother's for dinner, I ventured into town for a restaurant. I didn't find one readily, so I asked a young couple along side the road for directions. Achille in his mid twenties showed me the way to one on the main road down by the bridge. He stayed long enough for me to order and be understood. So I ordered him a coke, and he flashed his gorgeous smile as we tried to communicate. I went home happy to have made a new friend.

On Tuesday JZ and I made questions in French that I could ask at Melissa's work site, “Santee Pour Tous L'association”. (Health for All) We rode to her site mid morning, and JZ left me to interview the managers on my own. The two young women responded to my inquiries and gave me a tour as well. There were about six other younger women in the main room, working at sewing machines and cutting fabric at a big table. They showed me lovely linens embroidered with African scenes. I bought some things for my kids. Melissa returned to work shortly, and when JZ also returned, the three of us went back to the conference center for another delicious lunch of salad, and Riz Gras (rice with tomato sauce). In the afternoon we worked on the tape some and then I studied alone, doing sentences.

12-19-07 la Fete de Tabaski (50 days after Ramadan)

This morning there was an air of festivity about the town, as this is a significant Muslim day. On the way to town I noticed evidence of mutton near several compounds being prepared for the feast this day. JZ had me prepare a paragraph for the village chef at Sala when I arrive and am introduced to him.

JZ had arranged that Melissa and he and I would go to his mother's home for lunch this day. It was far west of town past the cathedral and hospital. Melissa and I rode our bikes, while JZ rode his moto. His mother had prepared Riz Gras, chicken and pima (pepper) sauce and watermelon. We met several of his younger brothers, close in age to 30. There were other relatives there restoring an older home on the back of the lot. The workers drew their water from the well in the center of the courtyard for the masonary of homemade bricks. His mother sells bricks out front by the street to support herself and family. Although her children are grown and gone, there are grandchildren and others living there. JZ said his own family will enjoy returning to his mother's home for Xmas.

During the afternoon session, JZ said that working with me this week showed him where I struggle with the language. He asked me what I thought worked best for my learning style, and also which teaching traits helped me. He genuinely wanted to know so that as director of the language program, he can incorporate what works for seniors. He told me he instructed his staff to use patience liberally, and we noted that repetition and word association work for me. When he commented on my effort, and said “I can see you have a way of getting your communication understood, even when all the words don't come automatically”, I knew he understood. Practicing speaking French in my village will bring it along too. Peace Corps is expecting many more seniors to join he said.

After the afternoon class, I met my new friend Achille and his friend at the restaurant and we visited. It turns out the meat sandwich I ate that evening was bad. I was on the BRAT diet the next day.

We had class Thursday morning but in the afternoon, JZ had to go to town, locate the Gare from which we would leave Fri, and purchase our bus tickets. We settled our account at the mission, which has a policy of reducing the price for volunteers to stay here.

Every evening the seminarians were practicing for Christmas services, and the fullness of the hundreds of young male voices was indescribably beautiful. Several muscicians on a keyboard and on African drums accompanied the vocal symphony. I swear their voices rose right up to heaven! I was so drawn to this music, that one night I stepped into the back of the church and watched the choral director pull in the younger voices, and the deeper voices and then the entire group of singers, who were moving to the music with body and soul. What a sight!

On Friday we left the mission by five in the morning with our headlights on heading for downtown Koudougou. The streets were being cleaned by dozens of women using wisk brooms. I was impressed with how clean it looked as they moved along down the streets, puffs of dust following them.

We were loaded onto the bus and on the road by seven, and two hours later we pulled into the Gare in downtown Ouaga. After getting my gear back to the transit house and some breakfast, I went to the PC bureau where Theo gave me another test. My level remained the same, low intermediate. Thierry told me that I could choose to stay in Ouaga another week or go to my placement site with a tutor (JZ's suggestion) which would make meeting people easier for both me and them. I chose that option. Thierry also said that I would be transported the day after Xmas, as most staff were already off for the holiday.

I spent the next four days at the transit house watching movies, shopping, using the internet, and visiting with others who were coming and going for the holidays. Beth and I watched a CD Christmas movie on her laptop, a new experience for me. Beth came into Ouaga to meet her sister at the airport the next day, then they would go to her site up NW in Burkina Faso. Jeremy was meeting his sister and his parents who flew in from the states with too much luggage, which he had them pare down and leave a good share at the transit house. Jeremy lives way up north and had plans to take them hiking.

He was kind enough to go to a little store with me before dinner and practice my French there, after which he gave me tips on repeating phrases used. People here often say the correct phrase after you attempt it, so repeating it right away helps him, he said. I picked up a small fish to make for dinner along with some fresh beets. I had inventoried the kitchen and found enough ingredients to make piloff to go with it. Reminded me of other cooking challenges over the years with my big family.

On Monday Becky and Robert, also new volunteers arrived and we chatted a lot. I made an apple pie that afternoon, which the few of us at the transit house gobbled down warm. Monday I repacked my things in preparation for my move to site. I also added some things to my pile. I bought a lipico and small side table which the men strung with colored twine in a beautiful bright pattern. I got two blue plastic chairs, and some food staples. I also made a dry run to St. Francis d' Assise church six blocks away, up on Charles de Galle Blvd.

12-25-07 Christmas Day

I was early out the door, as most holidays have churches brimming over with the faithful and the occasional. I walked the six blocks and entered a church which was set in a semicircle, with musicians in the left front corner, near the crib scene and before the main altar. There were singers in uniform from a nearby school outside who filed in and filled the front section of the church, where several microphones were set up for use by soloists as well as the choral director. The mass was in French, and the songs were also sung in French. The voices of the congregation were very wonderful to add to the rich Xmas hymns. It was a lovely service and a real connection to home for me.

Afterwards I enjoyed the quiet walk to Sheila's home near the PC bureau for brunch with some staff in town and all the volunteers who happened to be at the Transit House for the day, about 6 of us. Some past volunteers, who were now married to Burkinabe' and living close attended with their families. It had a welcome “home away from home” feeling to the morning. Baby Cash and Shawn called me on Christmas, and Jodi took a few snapshots of their end of the conversation, pretty cute. I got to talk to Angie, Cliff and all 3 kids for quite awhile that evening. In fact Bintou was trying to call me at the time, and finally called on the transit house regular phone line, to discuss our trip together to Sala tomorrow. I was so happy to know she would go with me to site for a week as I settle in to my village.