Monday, November 16, 2009

African Adventure 21

First week July 2009

On the first I woke up to rain around 5am and it rained hard for more than an hour. When I was able to ride over to the PC bureau on my bike, Aisha, the mail clerk told me they picked up 39 boxes at the Post Office this morning and 7 of those were mine. Idrissa the driver drove me and my boxes to the taxi brousse after noon. On the way home our transport passed two petrol trucks which had crashed on the road and one rolled off, injuring the driver. The paved highways are all two lanes in Burkina Faso, and that makes safety hazardous at times. Once at the Shell station in Thyou, it took me three trips to get all the packages home.

The women and children are in the fields planting, so there's not many coming to the health center for baby weighing or anything else. We got done by 9:30 with no vaccinations needed today. At the compound the women are preparing food for Sita's relative who is here for marriage. By dinnertime in the evening many men were eating together in the courtyard to celebrate the marriage. Meanwhile the women gather in Minata's yard to eat. I never did see the couple and in fact they weren't both here.

When I opened the box Connie sent, I gave Fati her requested items, shoes, backpack, skirt and top, then invited the Major over to get the sterilizer. Over tea, we talked about it and the directions for using the pressure cooker need to be translated into French. We also discussed the district audit taking place soon, as well as the one the Peace Corps will do. I mentioned I want to teach the women how to cook with Moringa leaves.

My new friend Constant transported the gate here for the enclosure of the Moringa petite forest at the Maternite'. We had left it at the tailor's place last market until now. One morning Issa and Karim both helped me transport the gate, some wire, and new bigger poles for the fence We three worked until 11am reinforcing the poles and the fence, adding a layer for height. Karim dug holes and made a channel for the big woven gate to sit in. Now we believe the Moringa trees are safer from animals. See photos.


There was a COGES (health board) meeting one late afternoon, which Philippe ran and the accoucheuse participated in. There was a quorum of members and the discussion was about the audit and also the new residence for the head nurse and the need for more maintenance of the facility. They deferred my French report on my activities until Georges can attend and translate into Moore' for several of the board members.

With the rainy season comes higher humidity and a different feel to the heat. My midriff is sweating constantly. It feels very hot.

Father Andre' is a new priest ordained in KDG this first week of July and he says his premiere Mass at Nabatogo, with Maxime, George's brother, assisting. Yvette from our church organized a bus ride there for the women of the parish. We sang all the 25K way to that village. Each time a chant ended another choral member started a new one. It was a fun trip.
Many people circled the outside of the church, then processed down the aisles and onto the altar. Particularly colorful was the village chef in traditional hat, sword and clothes over his ordination attire. I taped the Mass, and the trilling of nearby choral member came across loud and clear. At the conclusion many people spoke, wishing Father Andre' well and presenting gifts to him. Then the congregation led by the priests danced out in similar fashion, very happy indeed!

Several of us walked over to the marche' in Nabatogo to eat our tuna sandwiches, and find dolo. Martine and Marcel, Kiemtore' relatives, had their dolo booth set up on the church grounds. We all piled back on the taxi brousse for the 5K ride to Andre's parents home where the rest of the fete would occur. We walked another kilometer past a broken bridge by their barrage, and to the family compound. Tons of people were there, in groups of singers, dancers, people visiting and/or eating. Guests of honor were under a tent at long tables to eat. Music could be heard over the loudspeakers. It was a joyous celebration! We left for home before dark, singing all the way back.

Second week of July 2009

The Major had helped me schedule a sensibilisation for students in Bonsmnore', his natal village. That morning the rain began at 8am and rained hard for three hours straight. Bonsmnore' is 8K up a dirt path, which in good weather is difficult to drive, but impossible with this weather. I text the school director on this last week of school and he invited us to come in October when school resumes.

So we went to the marche' and later Maxime text us that he wanted a family dinner to celebrate his advancement to the position of deacon in the church. We went to their parent's home and watched the food preparations, Riz Gras with gumbo and aubergine sauce, fish with onion sauce, fried chicken with tomatoes, garlic and onion sauce. They got out the boom box and church music cassettes to add to the occasion. It was a happy family celebration.

Only three women brought their babies for weighing this week plus two others came for prenatal visits. There was a family in the recovery room whose baby was born and died at home. Many people came to console them.

In the afternoon a young man helped me plant 15 trees over near the Maternite' now that our fence is secure. The Major found my watering can so we can keep them watered. I tried pumping water at the nearby pump, and found it takes practice to develop the skill. The people at the pump helped me out. Whenever I go there to weed, people come and help me too.

I invited the two new nurses for tuna sandwiches, which they enjoyed. An American meal! I gave them tank tops and we played Uno. Another evening Garrett, PCV in next village was hosting his replacement volunteer, Jonathan, a nice guy who plays the guitar and writes songs. Garrett finishes his service next month and returns to USA via Morocco.

Chris packaged up a Mexican Feast for me to host my neighbors with. I cooked up the black beans and the pinto beans along with preparing all the condiments, onions, tomatoes, and taco sauce. I had the kids learn how to say “Tortillas”, and explained this is a Mexican bread. They practiced wrapping their tortilla around a big scoop of beans. Three families came to eat, 3 women and 14 children. Everyone had from two to four burritos apiece and were quite content.

Annually at the close of school, the Sala teachers host a party for all the functionaires in village. Dicko Oussmane came by to invite me to the director's house the following Monday night right after dark. I biked there and was walking in the field towards his house when a scorpion stung me two times on my foot. That is an excruciating pain that last for upwards of four-six hours. We went to the clinic where the medical staff put ice packs on it and I took Ibuprofen, Tylenol, Benadryl, and applied hydro cortisone. But mainly I was home elevating my foot until the time passed. I had met my horoscope sign, which comes out at night! Ouch!

Mid July the auditors from DC Peace Corps arrived, a whole contingent of reviewers came and quickly spread out to the contacts they asked me to provide and interviewed all available. Reviewers spoke French as well as Moore' the local language. They talked with my Major, head of the CSPS clinic, Karim, my counterpart, Georges, my language teacher and translator, Minata, my landlady and a 13 year old student, Adama, who of course attended the sensibilisation at school. Two more school people were to be interviewed later. The goal of the audit was to determine the effectiveness of the Peace Corps program and service at the community level.

Third week of July 2009

On this week I traveled to Ouaga, because I was summoned by the police commissionaire to testify as a witness/victim of purse snatching last January and trial was set for Friday. The PC driver drove me to the police captain's office and I checked in. He said come to the Palais de Justice next morning. Congo Harouna, PC security manager and I were driven there to the huge stark courtroom, where the main judicial people were all in black robes. The judges were distinguished by their white ties. The tribunal main judges were women flanked by two male judges up on the “bench”. The prisoners, 30+ came in a blue paddy wagon with many guards with guns. The courtroom security kept saying “Turn off your portables” to the people, who were attending the hearings. The postponed case names were called first, and after a bit, Congo found the Police Commissioner Christopher only to be told our prisoner, Allasane was not in that group. Meanwhile the prosecutor spoke from left side of the bench and the defense attorney from the right side spoke for four thieves. Thirty minutes later another guy defended himself and the prosecutor became rather heated arguing with the defendant.

Congo motioned for me to come out to the lobby. The commissionaire had found out that Allasane was in court last Saturday, pled and was sentenced to two years, no time off for the 6 months awaiting court date. (Apparently the whole court system is not computerized yet.) We then went to the Magistrate's office who signed a permission slip for us to visit Allasane in prison, which is a few blocks from the Peace Corps Bureau. This magistrate's office had mounds of papers everywhere. We waited over 30 minutes for the prison to find Allasane to come talk to us.(Prison could also benefit from computerized data.) He was contrite as he told us about just meeting the ringleader two weeks before the snatching. He said the police have been looking for Sylvain for 4 years. He is very clever and keeps ahead of them. Allasane said he met another of the accomplices who was caught, and serving time, while the mastermind Sylvain got away.

Close to the omelet place on Charles de Gaulle Blvd, the police had traffic stopped this Saturday morning for a bicycle race that went whizzing by. It's amazing how fast they are! I got a cab to the Village Artisanal to try out my visa card, and they required purchase of 30 mille worth of merchandise to use a visa credit card there. I had no trouble doing that. I found a quaint little restaurant close to my Hotel Zamdogo called La Cuisine de Juliette. I can now recommend their grilled curried chicken, a welcome meal after a long day shopping.





This week I spent with Becky, the other volunteer over 40. We became fast friends during training at our host village of Somiaga during those two months. Out of 8 people placed there, we are the two remaining in Peace Corps service. When I took the taxi brousse to Gademtenga, her market town, I was welcomed by her local friends and soon Becky pedaled up to meet me. Becky's village Likink-else is 7K further and we biked and greeted people along the route. Once there we sat under the stars in her courtyard relaxing and catching up on each other's activities. Monday was a day of meeting the village chef, the Major at the health clinic, and above all Zongo, the sweet nurse who laughs a lot and likes talking with us. We spent a fair amount of time sitting under the huge Baobob tree in front of his house. His wife Awa makes fried gateau (cake) that goes nicely with coffee in the morning. The village passed the word that the Fete of Masks was starting Tuesday evening in the nearby village. Meanwhile I observed Becky teaching an English class to 8-10 girls. The mutual admiration between students and Becky is very evident as they introduced themselves to me and I to them. They sang songs and practiced family connections, using my family. Other important folks I met were Ouseni, her Moore' teacher and Gansonre', the pastor and his big family and of course Madi, the owner of the local coffee shop. That evening Zongo and his wife donated a chicken to mark my arrival in Likink-else, which they prepared in wonderful sauce along with fresh local bread.

We went to the market where I found three tank tops new to me. We visited friends and tried out the local benga and dolo.

That evening we went to the outskirts of a village, Bengado for the Fete of Masks. A crowd was gathered on a knoll around a grove of trees waiting for the masks to arrive. Out of our view inside the woods men were preparing a sacrifice (chickens). In a clearing we saw 2 or 3 masks coming across the field towards us. Becky said “Look, they're coming out!” Saidou explained the ceremony as we and thousands of others watched the masked people dance toward us and to where other masques were gathered. They squatted in a huge semi-circle as the drumming and whistling swelled with the momentum. A signal that the sacrifice was completed caused them to start parading around the grove of trees with the children all running in front of them. Some masques carried fetish sticks. Their costumes were made of natural fibers, dyed black and pink. On their heads sat big hand-carved wooden masks, each of a certain animal, ie, gazelle, monkey, bird, antelope, sheep, herron, etc. Each masque in turn danced a particular step representing their animal. Then danced away into the grove. There were 23 in all, and it was captivating. We were lucky to see this festivity that only occurs every three years. It finished by dusk, and will continue two more days, when Becky got permission to take pictures. (See photos.)

Zongo gave me and my bags a ride on his moto to the gare, where the driver made a special trip back to Ouaga for me. At one point he let out his assistant, who went into the nearby village for milk, which I assume was freshly drawn. We waited for him to return with his two liter bottle. Reminds me of the fresh Jersey milk route my father made most weekdays stopping on route to town from the country.

Fourth week of July 2009

Back in village we weighed 28 babies and only one was frightened of me. That is progress. There was much visiting among the women today and they seemed to understand the Moore' numbers I was saying to convey their baby's weight. Albertine gave out immunizations to those infants needing them and then she did 3 or so prenatal consultations. We were done well before noon.

I went to the market to get vegetables for Garrett, when I received both a text and call from Zongo back in Becky's village. As I was visiting in the church hangar I saw Kabore' from Stephanie's village, Gao. He remembered me from a visit there. A Puel man bought me dolo and JB came by to say the pork was almost finished, so I left to buy enough to share with George's family. On the way I got my new fan motor from Augustine, who had repaired the motor himself for one mille. I practiced the Moringa sensibilisation for the CREN the following day.

Indeed at the CREN Sr. Margaret was waiting to greet us when we arrived after 10 that Friday morning, and there were over 20 women with malnourished babies in attendance at the Moringa talk. We were in the big octagon shaped main hall with little fire pits along one wall. The women and babies sat in an L-shaped bench area along another wall and we used the table in that area to train from. There were two or three sets of twins, which typically have high incidence of malnutrition. Sr Amy, Father Paul from Togo and a visitor from France as well as some of the CREN staff came to observe and ask questions as they were so interested in the topic. We had a chart up on the wall about the vitamin and nutrients that Moringa leaves contain. I spoke in French and Georges translated into Moore' for the women. They asked which is better fresh or dried leaves or powder. The concentrated powder has the most, and the fresh or dried leaves retain theirs if cooked under 5 minutes. Adding the powder to broth for infants is especially helpful. At the conclusion we passed out little cloth gift bags of Moringa seeds, which pleased the women. We had them share booklets showing how to plant, protect from the animals, etc. There were not enough to go around so they declined to take one home. The staff thought the mothers understood the presentation, which pleased us.

On Saturday Madi returned home to his family next door from his year studying in Bobo. He had passed his BAC, which is a high achievement in Burkina Faso. Now he goes on to the University either in Koudougou or Ouagadougou. No one knew he would arrive, as he lost his portable phone and couldn't inform them.


Later my friend Achille came to visit me and spend the night. He had painted a big sign for the Moringa petite forest. “Tree of Life”. We went over to CSPS to hang it on fence. See photo. He also brought me an oil painting of a Moringa tree for my house, as well as cultural drawings he made for each of my children. Achille proudly showed me his passport and documents he had gathered to get Visa to come visit in America.

That Sunday we went to Sabou to attend Father Emanuel's first Mass in his home parish since his ordination last week. Kiemtore' Maxime was the second Abbe at the Mass, and the congregation was truly excited at the event. The choral group and young dancer group were both amazing. At the conclusion the priests and others danced and clapped in procession through the church. The village chef gave Fr. Emanuel a hat, a daba, a bag and valise. Many other gifts were forthcoming.


On Tuesday Madi and I pedaled 30 minutes to the field of his family SE of our house. We saluted many people en route who were working in their fields. Upon arrival I photographed each of Minata's children planting corn in the fields. Abdoulaye came over to where we were and helped Madi and I weed one field. I worked an hour and got so tired I had to rest. Then I managed another hour before I actually called it quits. We sat under the tree next to the chicken coop Minata has there, and watched the new brood of chicks follow their mother around hunting for something to eat. The two brothers grilled corn for us to snack on, then when the pot of beans and corn Minata was preparing for lunch was ready we ate together. As we observed the various fields of crops, I noted that Minata has rotated crops since last year.

First week in August 2009

One of my neighbor's Sanata's baby was ill and I advised her to take him to the clinic. She said she had no money, so I said ask the price for medicine and I will pay for you. It was 450 francs, about $1. When I paid the pharmacist, I spoke with the Major about his suggestion and my desire to plant Moringa trees at around the perimeter of the school garden. He was OK with that, and I texted the school director for permission, which he granted. We convened a work party and the next day we took the 56 older Moringa saplings from my veranda to the school grounds to plant. My fellow volunteer Garrett came to help Karim, my counterpart and I load up the trees in a huge basket Hamadou loaned us. He also provided a machete' to cut big weeds and a daba, digging tool. Karim put all that on his bike and it was a precarious sight to be sure, but he made it .5K away. Two of the Major's sons, Saidou and Oussmane were there to help us. We all worked two hours straight to get the little trees into the ground, secure some parts of the fence, and water everything with the help of little boys at the school pump. About that time black clouds came and threatened to rain, but no luck!

The next day I returned Garrett's daba to him, and he said he can go with me to Sune' for sensibilisation after his meeting tomorrow at 10am. A group of young men in Thyou formed a young men's gardening association and are making plans to grow produce for money. It rained hard overnight.

We biked to Sune' as planned. I had texted ahead to the health liaison in village that we were coming, but they have no cellular reception there, so had no notice. Last night's rain and today's mud made the journey tricky. We found the chef in the village and he said everyone was in the fields and some farmers had traveled further east to help their fellow farmers in their fields. Garrett commented that he liked the village and said now he felt like he was in Africa (in the remote village). Near the village meeting place, a grand old Baobob tree had hundreds of birds chirping from their huge nests, while a vulture perched on a limb squawking. Clusters of new leaves were coming out on the branches. We set a date with the chef to return for the HIV-AIDS presentation and I would invite Garrett's replacement, Jonathan to help with it. On the return home we saw a woman wearing a wreath of leaves on her head and atop that a huge calabash was resting, full of something I'm sure. We also passed a man whose bike broke down and he was walking his produce to the market in Thyou. George took his grain for him to Sala to leave at mechanics hangar. The man told us while he was voiding in the bush, one of his two pigs got away. Oo-la-la!

Second week of August 2009

Our Moringa meeting was over the weekend in Ouagadougou, and I prepared Kopto, as a dip from the harvested leaves to wrap a tortilla around. It was a hearty and also lucky late morning snack, because the lunch we ordered in did not come. The original members of this committee showed pictures of progress with Moringa projects in their villages, and we had lots to discuss and decide before the coming turnover of members. Rob and I worked on the broth recipe for the little Moringa booklet he has designed. The booklet is in French and 5 other local languages to be given out to the villagers as we talk with them about the benefits and how to plant Moringa.

On the roof of the Peace Corps Bureau, four stories up, we watched a beautiful sunset ranging from red to pink to violet along with beautiful shaped roundish clouds. There were thousands of bats in the air as far as the eye could observe. (See photos.)

Also Idrissa, a driver took me for my five country Visa located in an old government building with stacks of musty files and one guy working the desk. Idrissa requested the form, and had me fill it out. We went a couple blocks away to get visa photos, turned those in with 25 mille and left to return later when that was all processed.

My extended family in America was at Lake Shasta for a reunion, so when we connected on “Skype” there we all were seeing each other on live camera. We talked a long time and my brothers were in rare form as we joked and visited. What a treat to see my grandchildren and how they've grown since I left home.

On Sunday four of us had a guide, Anselme drive us north one hour to the famed personal animal park of Blaise Compare', the president of BF. Each visit has to be set up, so we were lucky Anselme coordinated this. Zinaire' Animaux Parc has large game animals and some small ones too. We drove into the 20 acre park and walked to the very big circular cages of tiger, hellan, elephants, monkeys, hippo, snakes, giraffe, horses and an ostrich egg. The hippos put on quite a show, which Christina captured on a video.


Anselme told us we brought him good luck, as his wife was getting her veterinarian degree soon in that town, where he visited her while we had lunch. Afterwards we stopped at the market going on in Minagou, where Anselme treated us to dolo. What a pleasant day we had! Later I showed all the neighbor kids the photos and hippo video, as most have never been to Ouaga, let alone to a zoo.

The next day, I returned to village to find Minata's husband, Oussmane and daughter, Sanata both were home too. That week on Thursday when the women and babies came for weighing, we began a series of Prenatal Care sensibilisations using a flip chart funded by Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation and provided by the Health Minister of BF, and Family Care International, . The accoucheuse asked the women to stay for the talk. She and the two nurses, Emilie and Bibita, chimed in at opportune moments to comment on the topics related to good prenatal care for the mother and baby during and after pregnancy. There was a lively back and forth discussion between several women and Georges and the accoucheuse, who fielded those comments. Especially when the subject was coming into the clinic soon after they become pregnant. The midwife said they need to stop working so hard then and have their husband come with them for checkup to assure good health and she will answer questions then for both parents. Some women don't come for prenatal visits they said because they have no money for medicines prescribed. Albertine asked them to encourage other women to come for the good of all.

The Assumption of Mary into heaven is a big Christian feast day in BF. Our church had just finished the new grotto honoring the Virgin Mary by this date and the priests from Sabou came to say Mass outside near there. The grotto is like others in BF, big reddish pumice rocks form the “cave” and the alcove opening to display the large statue for the occasion. Otherwise she rests in a windowed case above the archway. The congregation formed a procession with the statue of Mary for the dedication on this feast day. It brought tears to my eyes to witness the undying devotion the Burkinabe' have for the mother of Jesus. The celebration continued under 8-10 grand trees in the meadow, with food of every description and drinks too.

End of August 2009

At the market I found Pascaline, who went home to gather Moringa branches for me (200F) as I wanted to take Kopto over to Garrett's for dinner on his last night in village. He is advisor and has a meeting that night with his young men's group who are planting a garden for profit. I went home, sat under the hangar out front and stripped the Moringa leaves from the branches, making two big bowls. I dried one bowl of leaves and made Kopto from the other. This is a nice pesto on garlic toast. The rains started at 4pm and continued straight through to 6:30 only letting up a little. I biked to Thyou with my new bike lite and Garrett was waiting on the main road for me. The four of us ate together, as both our language teachers were there to enjoy the beans Gar made and my offering. We were lucky with the earlier rain and the darkness of night to be able to get together. I was anxious to buy his dutch oven, which he had packed on his bike and put the big marmite on mine. Gar and Geo biked home with me for safety.

I went to the clinic to visit with the Major and saw two new babies in the maternite'. One of the mothers had another woman with a one year old child visiting her, and she asked me for a mousquitaire. I explained to come to my house across the field, but she didn't come. I think she only speaks Gourounsi and the language was a problem between us. I met the president of the young men's football group, Issaka, and was able to express my condolences on losing their 10 month old daughter to malaria last month. They took her to the hospital in KDG for transfusion, to no avail. He came by my house the next day for the mousquitaire I offered and I gave a couple Moringa trees too.

6 year old Ali was in the path crying his heart out, and I gathered Karim took his food. I brought him into my house to feed him the rest of Kopto on some bread and a power bar I had. The tears dried up then.

One morning by 8am it is pouring buckets outside and the skies are all gray. That continued until noon. In the afternoon I needed potash for my beans and rice, so I went next door where Sanata was making some. She had a container of sorts with ashes that she dripped water through into another vessel. Minata tasted it for strength and put some of the liquid in my jar. The two women were making bengado. Minata ground the beans into a powder, Sanata washed the leaves from the bean plants. The next step fascinated me. Minata built a rack from sticks of wood and straw in a big curved marmite and put it on the open fire. Meanwhile Sanata combined the ground beans, leaves, oil, potash and water and formed balls. Minata put these on the rack to cook in the contrived steamer.

I practiced the two lessons on prenatal care for the talk Thursday morning with the women at the maternite'. One topic was about involving the husband in the birth process early so that he is well informed and helpful. The other topic was the need for good diet during pregnancy and nursing of the baby. Many small meals are preferable and food from each of the food groups. At the discussion we emphasized that alcohol is bad for the woman and fetus, as well as infants. The 35 in attendance got involved with the issues.

I was excited and busy cleaning house for my guest that came for the weekend. Amade' my host father in OHG took the bus from there to Ouaga, south to Sabou and then bush taxi the 15K to my place. Wow, what a treat! The women couldn't come due to working in the fields. He was carrying his suitcase up the path as I showed him to my place, where he met the neighbors. We walked to the clinic to meet the Major. They are about the same age and got along well. I showed him the Moringa garden. We went to visit the forestry agent, Bernadette, then onto the village chef's place.

Amade' and I talked of the family of course. He was anxious to show me the photo album I had my daughters make up and send to them. I made Riz Gras for dinner, which turned out well. Amade' prayed two times that first day with me as is his custom. On Friday we sat visiting on the porch until it was time to go to the mosque. Madi accompanied him there and afterwards showed him around Thyou. While they were gone I fired up my dutch oven and made banana nut bread from a mix, which was a success. After lunch the three of us went to see Sala's barrage, which is very big now, esp in this rainy season. Since we were on foot we didn't go to the far end where Minata and many other villagers have gardens. But Amade' was impressed by it nonetheless.

Ramadan began that Saturday, which means all the Muslims fast from food and water during daylight. Minata rose at 4am to prepare breakfast before daybreak for Oussmane, Madi and Amade'. Later that morning Madi and I went down to the road with Amade' to wait for the bush taxi back to Ouaga for him. I loaded him up with toothbrushes for his entire family and sent my best wishes to Orokia and Alizetta and Awa the grandmother in the family. I hope to get to see them all before I leave.

Every evening for over a week the neighbor kids came over to play with the bionic Lego type toys that Luke sent for them in zip lock bags. Their creative sides took a while to catch on but soon they were into making their own objects. It was fun to watch.


The catechist from church, Jean Baptiste, wanted to come pay me a visit. Georges came to help with the translation. One day I prepared tuna sandwiches, and cole slaw, and we drank melange. JB led grace before and after the meal. He said Marie couldn't come because people were helping her in the field today. JB brought me a chicken from his own flock. I was pleased to show him my families, USA, OHG and Sala, I have on my bulletin board. I sent him home with two Moringa trees, a tuna pack and a sandwich for Marie.

My watering can had lost its handle, so I took it to the solder guy in the market for repair (300F). He did a fine job and now I can water Moringa in both places easier. Three adult sons of the Major came by my house for a visit and to get the mended soccer shoes for Zachariah. I found footsies to give them as well. I packed up ten Moringa seedlings in a box for the Major to take to Bansmnore' his natal village. I am hopeful to distribute the rest of the seedlings before I go on vacation. Gerard, my carpenter came to get six for the row of Moringa at his house. Then an idea struck me to ride around and distribute a Moringa tree to each family chef to plant and be used by all the women of his compound.

The first evening I took four to compounds behind my place and east of me. The next day Syrille came by to get two more trees for himself and two for a blind neighbor. That evening I took a tree to the big house en route to the Thyou barrage and north of me a ways. There were two more neighboring compounds I gave them to there. Next I packed up four trees and headed east of the clinic to leave trees at those compounds. One of them was that of the man plowing in the field with his steer and boy following him. I gave him that photo too.

One late afternoon/early evening I passed out eight trees on the west side of the main road in Sala, starting this side of the school and all the way to the mechanics place. Another time I took six down the hill from me but on this side of the road and passed out seedlings to those nearer neighbors. I found people who understood French, seldom English, but most could tell from the body language what I was doing and we got a good visit with each other in the process. Some villagers even showed me their already existing Moringa trees, which I was very pleased to see.

The evening before I left for Ouaga on vacation to Togo/Benin I went to my family chefs houses and gave them each Moringa trees, then also to Sita and Alizetta who each have houses on the outskirts of our compound. All the older seedlings are distributed and the young plants will be ready in a month or so. Rainy season is the ideal time to plant and hopefully they all take!

Saturday, October 10, 2009

African Adventure 20


Ghana Vacation

I took the bush taxi from Thyou to Ouaga on Thursday morning and went to the American Embassy to got three copies of the visa information for people I may want to invite to America. I had a chocolate milk shake at the American Embassy club, such a reminder of home. At the Transit House After some final preparations, I went to the airport for my flight to Accra, Ghana at 10:45pm. It took a little over an hour. When I arrived there at midnight, I changed some francs into cedis (Ghanaian currency). Then a taxi took me to the Millennium, a hotel next to the Cathedral in Accra. I caught up on my sleep there, before going to Makola Market, the city's chaotic main market. I walked through many streets of vendors and little stalls of things to buy where there were literally thousands of people everywhere. It became overwhelming! I rested in a gazebo type restaurant, where I could have brochettes and a beer, while listening to some Cuban music that several couples were dancing to. While there Connie called me to chat. She said they are going to Portland on Memorial weekend to show their slides of her visit to Burkina Faso. She requested I send pima (hot pepper) for the barbecue. I shopped a little longer, and found some black leather sandals for 20 cedis.



At Mass in the morning I was able to record the service which was in the national language, English. On the right side of the church were many people dressed in similar print tissue. Interspersed in the congregation were village chefs in distinct black on white designed tissue, with pagnes worn over their shoulders. The choral group was large and inspiring. The main priest saying Mass was an excellent speaker and talked about Christ making a straight line for man to follow as he zigzags through life. At offertory people brought up gifts of harvest and food in beautifully cellophane wrapped baskets to donate to the priests.

I took a cab to the tro-tro (bush taxi) station. En route the driver stopped at Barclay's Bank so I was again able to use my credit card to get enough local currency to get through the first week at the coast. The cabbie pointed out the Accra Football (Soccer) Stadium, where the world cup just happened and Independence Arch, where political gatherings occur. After an hour or two wait, a tro tro was finally leaving for Cape Coast, and I squeezed in with a bunch of passengers. The scenery was wonderful along the coast highway. Occasionally the traffic slowed to a crawl. During one such time, a young vendor walking in front of some cars was struck by a moto driving between the two lanes of stopped vehicles. The boy flipped up into the air and the two people on the moto cuffed him. From my vantage point it was the moto causing the accident. It was horrific to witness.

At Cape Coast Sylvester, a man I conversed with in the tro tro paid a taxi driver to take me to Takoradi, the final leg of my trip to the beach. He recommended a tour of Cape Coast Castle if time permitted. There was a branch of the University of Ghana Worker's College for adult education on the hill above town and I stayed in a dorm room for the night. The view through the large window in the back looked out onto a garden area, where the birds were singing amongst the old trees filled with fresh leaves. A light mist was falling, but I could still see the bell tower above the garden as I sat there reading. I finished “Things Fall Apart” by Chinua Achibe about the changes the white man brought African culture in Niger valley years ago.

In the morning the school director got a taxi for me to the transport station serving Dixie Cove, where I hired another taxi to Green Turtle Resort, so talked up in the West Africa travel book. The ride was quite an experience the least part of which was the terrible rutted dirt road 14K there. Halfway there the driver stopped because the radiator was overheating, and I watched through the front windshield in the space below the raised hood. I saw him tear off the fiberglass barrier, then get a rope from the trunk and proceed to secure the hose from the radiator to the engine. All this after the youth from the nearby hut brought him water to fill the radiator, which just kept puffing up steam. Many kids were standing around watching the activities. The driver was trying to somehow bite through the untwisted rope strands, when I handed him my Leatherman knife and he finished the task at hand and filled the radiator up with water again, with no cap for it. As we left for the rest of the journey all kinds of red lights appeared on the dash, brakes, fuel, radiator? The driver lingered at Green Turtle to see if I wanted him to return Friday for transport back, but the resort manager saved my dilemma when he said they had a car going to Takoradi then.



The tan stucco hut with a thatch roof sat facing the spectacular Atlantic Ocean. Inside was a main round room with a round shower inside its pebbled walls. The toilet was self composting with an urn of ashes to add once a week. The louvered windows and bamboo furniture and bed under a mousquitaire completed the coziness of the beach hut. I explored the area around the Green Turtle Resort and discovered a volleyball net, a ping-pong table and dining tables on a sandy ridge overlooking the rolling waves. The powerful sound of the ocean forced me to realize a vacation was at hand. I saw a native climbing a coconut tree and he cut one for me before he climbed down. Then he skillfully carved the husk off and opened the end so I could taste the fresh milk. I had chicken dinner on the beach that night by the light of the lantern. It was so lovely. And later as I fell asleep listening to the ocean I thought how glad I was to be here.



For several days I walked the beach, finding a little fishing village at the far end of the beach and near a bay where long narrow canoes pulled in loaded with fish and fishermen. I spent hours in the afternoons watching these vessels out in the ocean bobbing up and down, until their lights came on after dusk. To my dismay one morning I found some critter had eaten a hole through my canvas bag to get inside to the smell of peanut butter. They made confetti out of a blue plastic sack too. Later I found they slide in under the thatched roof and scramble when they hear a sound. I had brought a little food so as to not buy all my meals, but the bread fresh out of their oven daily and the other wonderful homemade meals at the Green Turtle convinced me otherwise. For example the next night's dinner was chicken thighs, fried aloco (plantain) and red-red beans in spicy sauce. Laying on the beach reading my novels, watching the ocean and listening to coast sounds was relaxing. Green Turtle has an outside shower area made of stone, some jutting out to set things on. Nothing is quite like shampooing in the warm shower with birds singing overhead and a breeze to refresh the skin. Add a breakfast of coffee, French toast, fried bananas with honey and it is paradise. I took some photos of a toddler kicking a football on the beach as he followed his father's cleanup cart. Very endearing.



One afternoon I decided to don my swimsuit and play in the surf. The water was warm and the waves quite strong. They knocked me over a couple times, and then one came that swept me off my feet along with my camera. Darn! I walked down the beach to the next little village, Akwidaa and had a drink that reminded me not of stout beer, but sassafras. Angie called me as I walked home on the dirt road instead of the beach for better reception. She said something called Swine Flu is causing world wide emergency plans into action. WHO is calling it a level 5 alert.

Two men returning from the fields, stopped me to ask about why I was in Africa and thanked me, inviting me to come work in Ghana when I'm done in BF. They continued on about the election and Obama. In this way the world is smaller now. I took my phone to the bar/common area in the center of the beach complex for charging overnight, but there was not enough sun so it took a bit of the next morning to restore power to my battery. Wisely people here rely heavily on solar energy.

I was now ready to head to Kumasi, a good distance north of the coast by way of a tro-tro. The entire way the land was plush and green like Hawaii, with thick underbrush. One difference was the villagers carrying water on their heads walking beside the road cautiously. There were any number of small villages along the route, but as we neared Kumasi both the traffic and construction increased substantially. The tro-tro let us off near the big largest market in Ghana and possibly West Africa, Kejetia. I made my way up the hill behind this “shanty town” market to the big, old Nurom Hotel Annex II for 12 cedis per night. As the rain was falling heavily, I stayed inside a Greek deli and ate dinner. I was watching a movie on the cable, when dozens of locals changed it to a soap opera that everyone follows habitually. Luckily I had seen “My cousin Vinny” before, but darn!

In the morning I shopped and found music and other things to bring back. Barcelona was playing soccer against Madrid (6-2) that day on cable. That was exciting to see. And at night I got goat meat brochettes and chatted with Hamadou from Cote d'Ivoire, who was in Ghana on holiday, because it was too cold at his home. That Sunday I had a cab take me up Roman Hill to St. Peter's Cathedral for Mass. I took in the beauty of the huge church, the music, the altar and congregation. I moved to the front so I could see better and try taping the English Mass. The musicians were there too. The acoustics in these old churches are fabulous.

I spent time at the National Cultural Centre in Kumasi where local artists make nice things you want to buy. Within the sample Ashanti Village I spoke with Dr. Oppong Ankrah who has an herbal remedy he treats all sorts of illnesses with. Traditionalists are common in most African countries. And often even trained medical staff use a combination of proven local remedies with modern techniques. In the center of the cultural boutiques and craft stores is a giant kiln, with four fire holes, and the potter said temperature of 900 degrees. The man who designed it is deceased but his legacy lives on here.

One of the fun things I learned to do in market was watch the cooks stir fry various rice and sauce meals, adding condiments and of course oil. They stir and toss the ingredients, holding the skillet on and off the heat. Presto, one has a meal wrapped in paper or a bag with mayo, pima, or red sauce to augment. Bon appetite!

Soon I was ready to return to Accra, which turned out to be a six hour bus ride, and completed the popular triangle of Accra to Cape Coast to Kumasi. I walked around the corner from the Cathedral and found the President's Hotel, where I stayed until my flight home. I spent those few days at both the marketplace, where I bought red palm oil and pagnes. Also I visited the artisan village in Accra , where I found beaded jewelry and an Ashanti design stool carved out of a single piece of wood.

I found a nearby restaurant, set in a garden and run by a Canadian couple with homemade and plentiful food. I chose chicken, chips and cole slaw. I perused my West African travel book and decided to get a cab to drive me past Independence Square with Arch, replica of the Arc de Triomphe. I asked him to drive along the Atlantic coast too, but alas there is not much public beach available. Next I wanted to visit the Osu Castle located on a road that ends overlooking the ocean. Taxis aren't allowed very close to the entrance so I walked down a tree lined boulevard to the gate and discovered that there are no tours as it is a “government restricted building”. I used their facilities, walked to their tiny post office, and out along the bluff overlooking the ocean. I noticed children playing in the surf close to the Independence Square. I returned to the entrance area and a guard with a gun motioned for me to move off the grass. Of course I did, then stopped to talk to him. He inquired if I was sight-seeing. Then referred me to Elmena Castle, which is identical but open for tourists and near Cape Coast. He also explained the security concerns are related to the president's mansion being located down a lane near this castle.

I walked back down the tree lined route and at the Artist Centre I found the little stool for 70 cedis. I also got two acrylics from Joe, who was negotiating the bench price between me and the vendor. It was closing time and all the staff wanted to get home to watch the soccer game between Barcelona and Chelsea. I fell asleep in my room watching that.

My journey to the airport was not eventful, and I was able to change my remaining cedis into francs outside the terminal. The flight left on time, then made a stop at Abidjan, Cote d'Ivoire to pick up more passengers. Flying over this country, I noted it was more like Ghana and Hawaii too. They are known for their cocoa and fruit tree exports.

Second week of May

I returned to Ouaga by noon, and to the Transit House to relax and visit other PC volunteers. I practiced the Moringa powder recipe for beignets that evening with Elsa's help. On Saturday at the Food Security Committee meeting Kevin provided an overview, and I gave a brief talk on malnutrition. Pete updated everyone on the progress of the seed bank, and getting more resources together. The agriculture workshops were a part of the discussion. In the late afternoon we all adjourned to the Transit House, where Elsa and I made a big batch of beignets accompanied with either sugar or a guacamole sauce. A Niger volunteer, Lauren, came to stay overnight at the TH on her way back home. She knew all about Moringa and said Hawa would be happy to know we are making her Moringa powder beignet recipe.

Sunday I put on my Easter pagne to attend Mass at St Francis, where there was a men's choir singing and 5-7 priests at the altar. It was very beautiful. Father Gaelon stressed that the sacrament of reconciliation gives one the strength and grace to resolve any issues. He said that God is merciful as long as one keeps trying. When one stumbles, (s)he picks oneself up and continues trying.

I had a nice long chat with Heather that afternoon, and she still wants to come visit me in Africa. We discussed places we'd like to see. She's doing 60K bike ride soon for an AIDS benefit. Later Chris and Tabor called and Tabor told me he wrapped mom's mother's day present. Shelley will like her flower from her son a lot. Chris said that Todd and his new girlfriend, Tracey stayed a few days with him and at the end of an impromptu barbecue, Shawn, Jodi and Cash stopped by for a brief visit.

I was able to get my blog posted and a package ready to go with a PCV visiting America next week. Then the PC driver came for a few of us to take to the taxi brousse gare for returning to our villages. I bought a few more things, picture frames etc before mine left. When I got back to Thyou the Major came in his car and took me and all my things back home. I was so happy for the ride. The whole compound came out to greet me. Minata took me over to see Salame, the family chef, who severed his big toe in a moto accident. It was bandaged up. I watched Hamadou, the other family chef in our compound play with his baby son. I was glad to go to the market in Thyou and taste local dolo again after my vacation. I also was glad to renew my French lessons.

I tried to find a soccer game on the radio, when Dicko Oussmane, a Sala teacher stopped by for a visit. He gave my soccer donation to the district office in Sapouy, who is organizing the playoff games between different villages. Sala won their game and go to the next level this coming weekend. Dicko talked about wanting to learn to use a computer soon. I showed him the student letters I've been translating too.

I walked down my hill to Issaka's new 4 room house with a rounded corner on the NW exterior, exceptional in village. I wanted to talk to him and Sita about Sali's eye appointment next Tuesday. He will bring her to the bush taxi.

When I went to the clinic I found Babou was there also because his daughter was on drip feed for malaria. I went home to get a couple things for her: a ball and hair clips. I gave Babou some photos for himself and Batiou, ASCs from the talks we did in their village, Dana.

On that Friday we pedaled our bikes to Dana for a sensibilisation at the school in Dana. The director put all the students together for the hygiene lesson on brushing teeth. The teachers took a break while we talked with the children. We were a little rusty from a month off but soon got in the groove again. 8 youth from the various classes did a good job demonstrating the activity. The students sang the song perfectly we taught them last time. When the teachers returned they said the director had walked over to the Dana market, so we went there to donate the school supplies for him to distribute. We also left the village chef his framed picture and several Moringa trees at his home. We biked back and made it to our marche' for pork sandwich.

The final soccer game between Bagre and was in Thyou that day, so I went to the field and found a seat with Ky Simplice and Koala Jean and other functionaires. Our Sala teachers were there. Bagre won 2-0 and the thousands of spectators were very enthused about it. Prizes were awarded at the end of the season.

My neighbor kids helped me invite the children in our compound who hadn't received a new tee-shirt to come for one. That took a while, but was rewarding, as they each had a big smile. Saidou's wife came by for coffee and asked for a shirt for their baby too. Then I pedaled 3K to church, where many young adults were being inducted into the Scholastic Society. I attended Mass and Communion, and greeted many people afterwards. That Sunday afternoon Angie called me and she shared that she was disappointed that I didn't stay the whole month in Ghana. She said the girls' First Communion went smoothly and they were happy with the rosaries I sent them.

Last two weeks of May

On Monday I found the Major at clinic early and let him know my planned activities for the week. I'll take Sali to Ouaga for eye exam Tues, go to Yaoghin school in Thyou on Tues for sensibilisation and do a HIV-AIDS presentation on Saturday with Garrett's help. He oked all of it and went back to his supervisory conversation with the RN. After some reading and a nap, I went to the marche' and met some friends for lunch. Then I searched for baby clothes for one tiny one who missed out on the t-shirt giveaway.

On Tuesday morning Issaka brought Sali over. She had not eaten anything, believing she'd eat after the exam. I convinced him it will be a long day and feeding her won't interfere with the eye exam in any way. He had Adama, 13 take her to the gare on his bike. When I arrived at 7:05, driver was saying “Tante, vite” meaning “Auntie, fast!” We all left at 7:08am. Eight year old Sali sat by the window and from that elevated position had a good view of things as we traveled to the capitol. She had never been to Ouaga before and watched the numbers of people, the vehicles, and the vendors everywhere with fascination.

We caught a taxi to the Simigna Clinic and the young optician, Kan Fabrice, adjusted my glasses. I filled out papers as we waited for Kan Rene', the Ophthalmologist to arrive. Presently his son came into the waiting room and said that his father was doing two eye surgeries this morning when the power failed in Ouagadougou. He took my number to call me if Rene' returned soon, but thought we'd have to reschedule, maybe in June, when the heat and demand for AC power lessens. So Sali and I got in another taxi and went to the TH, where I did a few errands and then onto the PCB, where I checked my mail and worked on the computer some. All of this was new to Sali. The staff and other volunteers were interested in Sali and what we were up to. We ordered lunch from the Bleu Marlin and PC drove us to the gare to return to Thyou. I bought many sachets of water as the day was very hot. By the time we got back to Thyou, I was very fatigued. Dicko Oussmane happened by on his moto and offered to take Sali back home. I pedaled home and retired early.

Wednesday we packed up for the sensibilisation at Yaoghin School where Abdoulaye, the Major's son teaches. He had all the students come outside to gather on an ancient boulder in the schoolyard in three consecutive groups for the dental hygiene discussion. (See photo.) We used four students from each group to demo the proper method for cleaning their teeth. It went smoothly and we finished up with the chant, which will help them remember the lesson learned.

That day and night I drank lots of water and ORS (oral rehydration salts) because of the heat and humidity, which made the weather rather uncomfortable. I kept waking up at night.

Thursday I arrived at baby weighing and we began early, weighing 40 babies in total. The accoucheuse did some Prenatal Consultations, the two nurse recorded the weights and heights as I weighed and measured all the babies. There was a rhythm to our work that day and we finished by 11am. Again it was so hot, 101 degrees. In my language lesson I read a lesson in French and Georges reviewed my written English translation.

Later we went to his house for dinner. I wanted to show Laurentine how to prepare the liquid herbal medicine for stomach problems I got her in Ghana. She was just making powder from cotton seeds for haricot leaf sauce., which covered ground maise toe- very delicious. Georges butchered a pintade and Laurentine made another sauce with tomato, oil and onions and garlic. Suddenly the wind came up so we went inside. That subsided and the house got stuffy, so we went back outside. Rain threatened so we moved under a hangar. Reminded me of musical chairs, and the evening was enjoyable.

Garrett came for a visit on his last day of teaching school and grading papers. We talked a long time about our experience in Burkina. I text Jean Baptiste, the ASC in Bolo, and made plans for the causerie on Saturday there. We hoped to have sensibilisation with the students and then HIV-AIDS talk with the villagers, since we were traveling 9K into the bush. The school director had all the students come into one room for the talk and that helped minimize our time. It took a little over an hour for the dental hygiene talk and demo by the students. I left some American student letters for Bolo students to have and respond to.

The ASC from Bolo found us at school and led us to the causerie site in the marche' near where Philippe, the clinic RN and another nurse in training were giving vaccinations. Some women were there too, but left for the fields immediately afterwards. We ended up rescheduling for next Thursday. Garrett was getting very hot on his bike and needed water. I was on the moto so not feeling that depleted.

In the next week I had Dr. Claude come for a site visit while we were at the Yargo School in Thyou doing sensibilisations with three groups of children. She observed that, took pictures and captured a video with sound on it using her new cell phone. She played it back for the students and they all giggled with glee. She said a few words to them about life long dental health. She said that Georges is a good animator leading the singing and that he translates well. She was impressed she said and happy to see me in action. We stopped by Garrett's so she could say Hi to him and Dr. Claude suggested that he involve his students in summer activities. Then we went on to my house, where I made her an American tuna sandwich. We reviewed the Prenatal Flip Chart on healthy pregnancy for mother and baby plus involving the father as much as possible in the process. We talked more about my work and she gave me ideas, like using the flip charts to talk with the women at baby weighing days. Many of my neighbors came by to greet Dr. Claude.


SCHOOL-BASED SENSIBILISATIONS

I think I found my niche! Sometimes training the villagers in Africa can seem overwhelming, and I try to sort out where my impact will make a lasting impression. We have done talks about VIH-SIDA, Malaria, and Principal Health Problem with the villagers of Sala and her 7 satellite villages. And we have sensiblized the many students in all of the schools in my same area. The health hygiene topics of washing the hands properly with soap and brushing the teeth correctly have been well received by this captive audience.

I say “we” because my language teacher, Kiemtore' Georges accompanies me to every sensibilisation to aid in my French and to translate into Moore' as needed. But an added bonus has been that since he has been choral director at church, he is also an animated leader in teaching song to the students.

I use visual aids and involve the students in these health lessons. Sometimes the students volunteer or the teacher volunteers them, but I believe having children demonstrate the process is meaningful to their comrades in school. I include a series of questions to get the students quickly responsive, with a bon-bon treat as incentive. Sometimes there is laughter from the class, when a youth drops the soapball in the dirty water bucket, or when they have toothpaste all around their mouth.

The best part seems to be when we get to the chant to the tune of “Michael, row your boat ashore”, as outlined in Avant Santee. “Si tu veux la bonne sante', lave' toi les mains. A l'eau et du savon, lave' toi les mains.” We usually have half of the class sing at a time, contrasting with the other half a couple times, and then in unison they shout it out. We are all having fun!

When I began the teeth brushing sensibilisation I was able to find posters from WHO to illustrate the importance of taking daily care of the teeth. The students agree they know people in their families and neighbors with missing or decayed teeth. We demonstrate with both the local material, Niim using soda powder as well as modern brushes using toothpaste. We show them the things that can damage teeth when put in the mouth: glass, bones, metal, rocks, and very hard candies. At the conclusion I asked the students if they remembered the song we taught them last time regarding hand washing They immediately sang it for us. At the school in Zao the director revised the chant, switching the words to “Si tu veux la bonne santee, brouche toi les dents, pate de dentafrice, brouche toi les dents.” We have used it ever since! We ask the students to take the information home and tell the family.

I know it's made a difference, because more and more kids, when they see me or my language teacher and I along the route, start singing the chant. Not only they but their little sisters and brothers too! We were in my most remote village, Sune, 24K away, last week on a VIH-SIDA talk with Garrett when a 3 to 4 year old girl spontaneously sang the chant perfectly.

My village Sala is intertwined by proximity and marche' and in other ways with Thyou, 3K away, which is in a different health district. Nevertheless when teachers from there asked for the trainings, I was happy to get the ok from my major to take the trainings to the three schools in Thyou too. At one school the staff organized the two youngest classes, CP1 and CP2 on a huge ancient rock outside for the talk.

I took it as a complement when my major asked us to come to his natal village school with the lessons too. The students are always delighted to have visitors especially when they are so remote. My hope is these lessons will last a lifetime!


By midnight it was raining in torrents and was pounding the metal roof for two hours nonstop. The lightening lit up the room and the rumble went on and on. The wind continued blowing hard enough that the louvers had to be tightened as far as possible to keep all the wetness out. The temperature dropped 10-15 degrees and my sleep improved with that. The air became fresh and the hot season appeared on its way out finally.

We went to Bolo the next morning for the rescheduled sensibilisation. Babou met us and set us up under a tree. We passed the time there while waiting for the people to come in from planting their fields. A man with one bad eye came by with his older children and talked to me until I understood that he was father of the twins born eight months ago in Sala. He said that the twins were losing weight and got referred to the CREN in Sabou, where the boy, Albert died. Albertine, his daughter survived. I had given them a baby quilt from home at their birth. It is such a heartbreak!

By 1pm there were sufficient number to begin the talk. Patrice translated into Gurunsi after Georges translated into Moore'. Time consuming, but when we got to the condom demo, the villagers started giggling and squirming. No questions at the end, but I gave out a mousquitaire to a woman who came early and participated as we went along. The crowd numbered approximately 75. We came back on a dryer path than it was in the morning, but with a low tire. We had the mechanic repair the leak in it. That took almost an hour.

On Friday I met up with Laurentine to learn how to make maise toe. She was at the marche' where she was selling her cooked fish. When the last of the fish sold, we pedaled the back way around the Sala barrage to Paul and Ordeille's place, where the women were gathered today making toe. En route we waded 3 meters across a rapid stream with big rocks. I leaned on my bike for support as I walked across. The women were stirring a huge marmite full of toe, and rotating stirrers, as the fire and steam were very hot, not to mention the cooking was in direct sunlight. When 30 minutes passed and the toe was the right consistency they spooned round globs into clear plastic bags to be used tomorrow. I took a turn stirring but didn't last long and the women led me to sit me under a Mango tree with another grandma type, who was pulling leaves off vines. So I helped her strip the vines in the shade. The other women served lunch which was mashed kiki (igname) with fresh onions cooked in oil. Next came another course, rice with cabbage and sauce. Great! I continued to harvest the leaves until the heat of the day subsided around 3pm when I pedaled around the south end of the barrage going back home.

Saturday was the 20th anniversary of Fr. Frederick's Ordination and the cause of all the food preparations the previous day. There was a Mass at our church to mark the occasion. Fr Frederick is brother of Paul, who leads the choir at times. Four priests came there to assist. The priest who gave the homily had everyone laughing. He is the priest in Catholic Development near the Cathedral in Koudougou. The others were fellow seminarians with Frederick. Singing on this occasion was exceptional. Everyone was invited out to Paul and Ordeille's house for a lunch feast. I sat at the main table where Georges was with the dignitaries, and the KDG priests wanted a brief description of my volunteer work in Burkina. When the tables were cleared the priests made a toast with an excellent Italian wine and said closing Grace before people left for home. What a treat to be invited!

I packed a bag to stay the night in Sabou with the nuns, in order to attend the Catechist Mass the following morning. When I got to the gate Sister Margaret met me and we watched the new puppy trying hard to play with the very pregnant cat. She was having none of that. We had a light meal together of soup, salad and keisch ending with mangoes. Then it was time for vespers, and Sr. Mary handed me a French prayer book to follow along. Soon they indicated it was my turn to read, and they responded in chant. Their voices are very practiced and beautiful.

After dinner this 6 inch spider ran across the kitchen floor towards me and I actually jumped out of the way. Oh!!?!! Sunday morning I strolled around the yard to see the fruit and Moringa trees they had planted, about a dozen Moringa trees 1.5 meters high and looking very healthy now.

First week of June 2009

One morning I checked in with the Major and found that most people are in their fields, so the clinic is not busy. I let him know I would prepare a report for the COGES meeting to update them on my health activities. Later Georges reviewed my French COGES report. I also relayed to the Major that the twins from Bolo went to the CREN and one died. He felt badly. He said he would like to tour the CREN one day soon with me. I worked on translating student letters.

We prepared for the causerie at Thyou Ecole Centre. We had combined classes of CP1 and CP2.for a large group in one classroom. That attracted other youth to look in the windows, which proved too distracting. We had to chase them away to hold the attention of the students in the room. We talked to them about dental hygiene and the need to care for their teeth every day. The 483 students came in three groups and we had volunteers in each to demonstrate the brushing with toothbrushes and trimmed Nim branches. The teachers who were in a meeting were very appreciative for the activity.

That night the frogs were in harmony croaking down by the barrage, thousands of them.

I packed my backpack and one bag to go to KDG. It was good to be back there. I pedaled to the mission Notre Dame to find it closed for two weeks. School is out and nuns went to France. I text other PCV Melissa who suggested I try the mission by the hospital in town, but they were full. I sat under a tree there and kids came out to see me, then their father, who was happy to talk to an American. He asked me what I was doing in Burkina. He emphasized that here is a difficult life with the poverty and heat, which I was feeling at the moment. I told him about my heat stroke and he had his children bring me water. In spite of their own poverty, the Burkinabe' always find a way to help their fellow man.

I text my friend Achille, who came right over and helped me find a room at Hotel Modeste for 5 mille a night. I had to stop several times due to heat, but when we finally arrived there, and had pork sandwiches for lunch while relaxing. Achille came back in the evening with dinner from the restaurant by the Forest Conference Center. We watched TV a while, but I was dozing.

We spent one afternoon at the KDG marche' shopping. I was happy to find a Burkina Faso t-shirt I liked. Then onto the internet cafe' for computer work. I posted student letters while in town too. I wanted to cash check at the bank but the computers were down so it was not possible. We pedaled to Achilles’ family home and we visited with them. His brother Seraphim is traveling to France for a month from mid June to mid July. He renewed his visa to travel. He said he will help Achille getting a visa for America. I explained that since 9-11 it is harder.

Sunday morning we met at Moukasa Parish for Mass. It felt like a big gymnasium. The place was packed and the choir was large, with many drummers. It is a ways from the center of town. We pedaled to town afterwards as I was returning to Sabou today. I found Georges outside St Luc's parish in Sabou, and also the nuns, who invited me to lunch and nap at their place. They are very good to me, and I got to see their flock of new pintades. Refreshed I left there to pedal to my village 15K away. En route Laurentine and Carmel (who was confirmed that day at Mass) stopped on the moto and invited me to stop by their house for repast and mélange. I prefaced my answer by “If I'm not too tired....” She insisted that I eat before going back home. I rode home by the moonlight, and when I turned to go up the path to my house, I got into the rain gully which ended suddenly, so I fell over on right hip. OUCH!

Monday I visited the clinic but they were not busy, so I returned home and translated six student letters, before reading my book “Unlucky in Law”. After the midi repose, I went back to the clinic to talk with the Major about going to Ouaga with Sali again for her eye exam. I turned in my three month report for the COGES (local health board) regarding my activities bringing health information to the villagers. Further, I let him know he and I can tour the CREN this week and he picked Thursday.

Sali and I traveled again by taxi brousse to Ouaga for her 11 am eye appt. Tuesday morning and the doctor was there this time. When they called us in, they administered the standard eye chart test on the wall to Sali. She read about four rows of large letters. Then came the machines! They adjusted her stool to fit the machine. The next thing I heard was Dr. Rene Kan say “Oh, la, la” several times. Sali looked into the machine and the technicians gave her instructions in Moore' for each eye. Next they put Sali on another machine that allowed Dr. Kan to look inside each of her eyes. He told me that the retina has two large areas of scar tissue in the left eye and one in her right eye that cover from the center out to one side. The right eye has 20/60 vision, whereas her left eye has 0 vision. He added this serious diagnosis is not correctable by wearing glasses. He offered that her mother may have been ill during that time in pregnancy when her eyes were forming. Added to this her father is diabetic.

Dr. Kan offered to photograph Sali's condition with yet another sophisticated machine. I agreed to this for the purpose of consultation with Dr. Cole, who paid for this office visit. I asked Dr. Kan to email Dr. Cole with this information and attach the photos. He observed that the only way Sali sees now is by turning her head and looking sideways. My guess was that she has no depth perception, but when we got back to village I saw her riding a bicycle, carrying a 5 gallon jug of water. It is human nature to adapt to whatever life hands one! Upon return to village, I rode my bike slow while Sali walked home. Her mother, Sita was in the fields until after 6pm when she came to find the results of our day in Ouaga. She thanked me.

On Thursday the Major and I rode his moto to the CREN in Sabou for the tour. The Major and Sr. Mary who is a doctor got along famously. She showed us the ER and the place where they wash wounds, then we came to two hospital rooms with patient's beds numbering to 10. One older man was being treated for lung infection, which the Major later told me was TB. We toured the pharmacy, lab and testing rooms, storage rooms and the accountant's office.

In a separate octagon shaped building, Sr. Amy showed us the CREN. We saw the weighing room, and watched as a malnourished baby was admitted there. We observed the sleeping areas for mothers and infants. The center grand room in the CREN is where the mothers are taught to make enriched brouillie and there are fire pits where they cook as if in village. Long benches line inside each exterior wall. Afterwards we had a long debriefing session with Sr. Mary, who gave the Major some medical supplies for Sala. (See photos.)

Last two weeks of June

It is mid-June and finally the skies opened up and gave us four hours of much needed rain. It sure helped my Moringa trees both at the maternite' and the new ones in sachets on my porch. I had company for American dinner, which Gilbert liked better than did his wife, while the baby slept through our time together. We ended a pleasant evening with a game of Uno. Garrett had another PCV Lara visiting, so we also enjoyed dinner together one night after which they walked back to Thyou in the moonlight.



Because everyone is in the fields most days, I do my own wash by washboard with soap, and hang it on the porch walls to dry. I walked to a nearby field that my neighbor ladies were planting to photograph them with my new camera. I caught sight of some children playing and some young men resting under a tree that made a good photo.

The Red Measles Campaign was four consecutive days, of which I helped out two. When I arrived there COGES members were organizing a line of children to begin vaccinations. I tallied numbers and opened syringe packages under the big tree out front of the clinic. Later that week Dr. Claude called and offered me her home to stay at when I go to Ouaga. I was thrilled with the invitation.




On Saturday, June 20th Burkina was playing Cote d'Ivoire a soccer match and it was on TV at the video store in Thyou, so I went there to watch, me and 500 men! Wow! Two men made room for me in the third row from the TV screen. (See photo.) When Burkina scored a goal, the place erupted in shouts. But, it ended 4-1 in favor of the neighboring country, So much passion and energy goes into the games here.



On Sunday when I took a taxi brousse to Ouaga, heavy rains started by the time we got to Sabou. The problem was there was no working wiper on a windshield resembling a spider with 12 legs. The driver did slow down but the rains came in his open window to the degree I had to put on my long sleeved shirt to avoid getting rained on. At Sabou I bought local bread, but I had no small change and neither did the boy selling it. The Muslim reading his Arabic prayer book and praying next to me paid for the bread. I was surprised and grateful. Once in Ouaga I took a taxi to the PCB and waited there for Dr. Claude's driver to come get me. Bintu greeted me at her door! What a surprise! The whole stay was delightful, with meals prepared for us, and access to the internet, and a chance to watch a Jeopardy type TV show from France. After a night in luxury, I moved to the Transit House by noon. Dr. Claude let me know that my site was selected for audit by the Feds and I should get a list of contact people and phone numbers to her soon. They are looking for benefits from having a PC Volunteer in their village.



I got a box ready to post to USA, as Bridgette, PCV is flying there this weekend. The clerk at the library store cut a box to fit for the things I wanted to send my family. Burkinabe' are so helpful to visitors.

At Bobo on June 23 Maxime was dedicated as a deacon, and the Catholic Church is lucky to have him. I typed his thank you French letter into English to send to the donors of the laptop from the church members in Eugene, OR and another PCV showed me how to attach the picture to go with it. Whew!

That Friday Georges, Garrett and I went to Bouyou for HIV-AIDS presentation. It was my last chance to have Garrett co present with me. The morning breeze was welcome. We arrived at the house of Amidou, who was there, thank God! And immediately set about gathering people for the causerie. In an hour there were enough people to begin and they were looking at the dark clouds gathering. We got two thirds of the way through, and after the condom demonstration, the weather suddenly changed to wind and rain. The people fled to the fields, and we took cover in the school director's house...for the next three stormy hours it turned out. (See photos.) It was a slippery and long ride home from there.



On Saturday another of the Major's children was wed, Hamidou to Sofi. They were married in another village and came to Sala for the marriage feast. I wandered around taking many photos of the Koala family in a similar tissue (fabric) made into many styles of festive attire. I was intrigued by the organization of the food, music, groups of people visiting one another awaiting the arrival of the couple. The momentum picked up as Zachariah drove them up to the door in his father's car. The bride and attendants came inside to sit on the couch while they ate. Soon Fatimata (major's daughter who was married last year) took me to photograph her brother, Hamidou, who was near where the music boom box would play on into the wee hours of the morning. There were hundreds of youth there as the whole village joined into the fun.





Sunday Mass had Thomas, the priest from Sabou and Deacon Maxime officiating to a packed hangar of parishioners. They are very happy to have one of their own becoming a priest. And the change from a service to a Mass is always welcome. I went to Ouaga to wish Lindsey bon voyage, as she is on her way to the University of Michigan to study. I feel sad another Somiaga volunteer leaves, as Becky and I now hold the mantle.

Monday, September 7, 2009

African Adventure 19

First week of March 2009

Transport to Ouaga on a Sunday is tentative. In the hour we waited by the road, a full taxi sailed by followed later by two others that stopped and I boarded one for the journey to town. Although Chris and Connie left USA March 1, they weren't due until the next evening. It is thousands of miles from home. Fespaco, the film festival is on this week in Ouaga and the town is packed. So the PC helped me find a place to stay when my family arrived. I went out to the Village Artisanal to get a few things to send home. The same taxi driver returned that evening at 7:30 for a run to the airport to greet my family.

It was hard to wait outside for them, but security doesn't allow non-travelers inside the airport. However we were already texting each other as they went through the customs line and finally at 10:30pm came out for a big hug. The cabbie helped load all the luggage and we rode back to Peace Corps Bureau, and walked down the road to the Blue Marlin for steak, fries and haricot verte (sauteed string beans) and of course a brew. We visited and just enjoyed time together so much.


We got up early the next morning to get to the bus station for our trip north to Mali and Dogon Country. First I introduced them to the PC staff and they were pleased to meet each other. The 9am bus we were planning on riding, was filled rapidly with people who had waited longer than we had. We hung out buying street food and a cup of coffee in a little corner shop in the terminal. We caught the noon bus to OHG which was a 3 hr ride. Once there, we got help packing our stuff 10 blocks to the bush taxi going to Mali. They were loading to go and it wasn't long before we were on the road to the border and three ID check points. Each time the taxi had to be pushed to start and the riders clapped when it started. At Koro our guide for the next two days, Omar met us near dusk. We then boarded another car for the ride to Tely. Omar phoned ahead so our chicken, rice and sauce dinner was ready when we arrived. Omar is this amazing guide who speaks five languages, knows the local history, smiles a lot and says “Gooot it” to everything you can think of. He also aided my mountain ascent and descent very much. That night we slept on a rooftop under the stars next to the mountain we would walk up the next day.



In the morning our welcome shower came out of an overhead wooden barrel. Omar brought up breakfast. We three and 6-8 others were still on the roof. We looked down as the villagers went about their tasks, getting water from the well, milling grain, opening their shops. Midmorning we started our climb to the escarpment. The Tellium people were here from the seventh to the thirteenth century and built the houses up on the cliff. They shared their space with the Dogon people who came then, until the 20th century when the Dogons took over the place. We saw grainery, meeting places, small huts, all carved out of the mountainside. There were paintings on the walls and reliefs of animals and hunters on the sides of dwellings. We also looked at the ropes that hoisted things up the mountain. The place was spectacular, as was the view from up there. (See photos.)




After lunch and repose we rode an donkey cart to the next village where we got to see women dying indigo pagnes in beautiful designs. We looked on as young boys were painting cloths in traditional designs with natural paints in colors of red, black, and yellow. Chris found a goat hide shoulder pack and Connie found a carved whistle to take home. We could see father teaching son the crafts as we wandered through that village. Back home that night the winds kicked up and we had to stay inside for protection from the sands from the Sahel.






The wind had left evidence in the courtyard, sand and dust in drifts and overturning things here and there. After our continental breakfast, mangoes and coffee, dough balls with honey, Omar walked us up to meet his family in Ende—aged parents and several grandchildren. Back at Koro, he proudly showed us pictures of his son, Assi, who was off with his mother. Omar connected us with transport back to BF. We interlaced our knees to fit in an already full taxi, and headed back, stopping only for a flat tire and three inspection checks at the border. At OHG we discovered the Staf bus only runs at 13h everyday, so we walked over to the Sodibus gare for our return to Ouaga. There we found an ATM and taxi back to Zone de Bois. We packed up everything for the ride to village the next afternoon, and all the neighbors in my compound came out to greet us. We had lots of help getting our gear up the hill. Friends brought over food and we visited over village repast and drink.

Second week of March

The village chef and two family chefs came in the morning to greet my family. The regulars came by for coffee too. It was a busy time, and we walked to the CSPS to tour the health center, meet the staff and Major. The 3 nuns and 2 French visitors from Sabou CREN came for a visit and joined our tour also. Sr. Mary and the Major were into health care conversation quickly, sharing info and experiences. We lunched together talking American politics regarding the new president, etc. When they left, I gave Sr. Mary a dozen Moringa seedlings from my veranda to plant at her health clinic in Sabou.

I took Chris and Connie to the marche' in Thyou, where vendors sell all sorts of things under little hangars and produce laid out on mats on the ground in the marketplace.. My friend Achille came in the late afternoon to visit from KDG. He brought the t-shirts he had lettered for the Major's son, who coaches a soccer team in a nearby village. A couple more of the Major's sons came to pick up the team shirts and soccer ball. Two had been over in the morning for their soccer shoes my family brought from America. Soccer is the sport of passion in Africa!

Sunday morning we three pedaled to St. Irene's Catholic Church in the temporary hangar at Thyou.. At the end of the service the catechist welcomed my visitors and I said a few lines in French, after which the congregation clapped warmly too. Lots of visiting and handshaking afterwards. Laurentine showed us big freshly caught fish she would prepare to sell at the marche' later. Achille, Chris and I went to a soccer game in the afternoon to watch the close competition match in Thyou 1-0. I was pleased with the yellow team shirts on the Bagre youth. At intermission dozens of kids swarmed around to view the American visitors. PCV teacher Garrett sat with us too. We got to greet all the players afterwards before going to celebrate at the marche. Laurentine had sold all her fish, except the last three I bought, which we added to our dinner later.



One day Chris measured space for shelving, and he and Abdoulaye went to Thyou to buy wood for the project. They came back like Africans with lumber piled high on Abdoulaye's bike. (I don't think the shopkeeper thought an American could manage the transport.) There were many kids on the porch watching and amazed as Chris and Abdoul put this plan into action.. While they were doing all that Connie French-braided my hair and gave me a Bowen (massage) treatment on my back and legs. Several villagers wanted a treatment, including Hamadou, my compound chef.


In the afternoon I made spaghetti sauce for a bunch of us, the families next to me and Garrett came to dinner as well. We sat on the veranda, the kids on a new bench Chris put together from the scraps. It was a fun evening. My family gave gifts of lights, wraps, and jewelry to the village chef and both the, compound chefs, my neighbor lady, etc. I wanted to show them Sala's big barrage, so we went there and Chris took a swim there. We toured the gardens and watched kids pump water there.

Wednesday I planned a hygiene talk with the students at Sala on teeth brushing. We had three groups of students covering two classes in each, so the whole school received the information. Volunteers from each class brushed their teeth properly with Nim or toothbrushes, and the kids tried out the toothpaste and sodium powder. There was laughter when that got on their faces. The kids sang the last chant from the hand washing talk, and had fun with that. We left some school supplies that my friends at home sent for school students.


Later in the day a storm came up and blew the tent off my porch into the yard of a neighbor behind my house. The rain went on all evening. Yvette and Laurentine arrived on a moto with dinner, rice, fish and wonderful spicy tomato and onion sauce. Afterwards we heard someone else coming, the major's sons brought over a dish of to' and goat meat. What generous people and they all want to share with the visitors from America.

Our village center has a boutique, a Celltell shop, a couple places to eat (usually benga or rice and sauce with meat), a buvette (pub) a mechanic and that's it. There is an office for the forestry person and one for the road permit person. There is a partially finished mosque and the school and health clinic. Compared to Thyou it is a small village.



A church group in Eugene donated a Dell laptop for Georges' brother Maxime who in seminary here in Burkina Faso. I had left it in Ouaga because Rob and James helped convert it to French language and computer programs. Chris had brought it from America. Connie and Chris left lots of gifts and things here, so when they packed their bags to head back to Ouaga, they had room for arts and crafts made by Burkinabe' to take to the USA. Along the route to the capitol we were delayed a half hour because President Blaise Compare's motorcade was due to pass by on the way to Bobo.


We spent the night at Karite' Bleu, a wonderful Bed and Breakfast near the Peace Corps Bureau. We also stopped in the office to meet Dr. Claude and chat with the director, We made two trips to the Village Artisanal before they flew back. What a great visit from home!


THIRD WEEK OF MARCH

I stayed in town a couple days to work on my quarterly report on the computer, which was due. Congo, the security/safety officer for PC showed me on his computer some booty pictures of the criminals who stole my fannypack. We are hoping the police catch the ringleader soon.

I was able also to schedule an appointment for Sali, my neighbor girl for an eye exam. She has one badly crossed eye. Dr. Cole from Vancouver offered to pay for exam and make her glasses for the problem. Her father, Issaka, is diabetic and I gave him Splendid (diabetic sugar) for his coffee. One lunchtime Becky and I were at ISO athletic club for a swim and lunch, which was a nice break. I also got my blog up onto the internet before leaving town.

By midweek I was back in village and to my delight one day the staff was gathered under a tree by the clinic talking with Gansonre. He called out “Landis” and I greeted him. He invited us to come for a visit soon. Thursday morning I met Albertina at the maternity office and we weighed 25 babies all morning. There were a few people on drip medication at the clinic, some were children. So I went home to find some toys and toothbrushes to give them. Dicko, teacher from Sala, came one afternoon for a soccer ball for his class. It is the biggest and nearly the only sport played in Burkina Faso.

I finished “Beloved” this week. What a powerful book that is. Toni Morrison is a gifted writer.

FOURTH WEEK OF MARCH
Sunday was Pelerinage at the Thyou barrage. Five priests officiated at Mass and the congregation made the pilgrimage from our church 2K away and arrived through the trees just like last year. What an impressive sight! Zanabou and I had packed a small bench to sit on for the event. It was a hot day and one woman passed out from the heat. She was put in a car and transported back to Sabou for treatment. We went to the marche' where everyone was celebrating the day with food and drink. I was able to give some photos I had taken to some of my friends.

I visited the patients in the CSPS clinic Monday morning and those waiting for Pre Natal Visits in the maternite', where one woman was in labor. It was still hot. I returned home and got ready to run errands in Thyou. I made several stops and realized I had forgotten to bring my water bottle. I asked for water along the way and was gone a couple hours when I pedaled back home. I wanted to get out of the sun and drink more water. I text the duty officer that I felt dehydrated and Dr. Luc called me right away and said to mix ORS in my med kit and drink it. I had tried to text Angie, but had trouble concentrating. Later she told me it was all in gibberish. I drank one bottle of ORS and sat down on my lipicot and then apparently passed out.

When I woke up at midnight I was in the hospital in Ouaga with Dr. Luc there. He said my neighbor kid found me and called the Major over, who told Dr. Luc I had a high temperature and needed to come to Ouaga as soon as possible. Peace Corps sent a car for me. Country Director sent Jonathan, PCV along with the two drivers to get me. A large number of my neighbors and my language teacher were here concerned about my health. Turns out that I had bronchitis (thus the 105 temp) plus heat stroke, so I spent the next three days in the hospital and the following week in the infirmary at the PCB. I promised the medical staff I would carry water everywhere I go and drink minimum of 4 liters a day, stay inside between 11am and 3pm when the sun is the hottest, and ride on moto for work in satellite villages. I thank God I survived! A special thanks went to Abdoulaye, who found me, the major, who insisted the Peace Corps come after me that evening, and Dr. Luc, who stayed the first night assuring I had emergency care if needed.

RECYCLING

In Burkina Faso all “things” have a number of lives. One can find strips of cloth used for wrapping wounds, or around a bike tire stem to prevent leaking when the innertube is pumped with air. Pagnes (loinclothe) are worn like skirts on women. They are also used as covers at night, or wraps during the long walk to market. Later that pagne may be tailored into a shirt or used to strain liquids used in cooking. Pagnes are curtains, slings for transporting babies, or spread on the path to a religious ceremony much like a red carpet.

Long strips of rubber from big innertubes are a must for attaching anything for transport on bikes and vehicles. Branches off trees may be used for toothbrushes or donkey switches. Arranged in a line on the road, branches are a signal of a stalled vehicle, often a huge camion (truck). Burkinabe' know their trees and leaves well and use them medicinally and in sauces over their main starch, toe or rice.

Medium sized rocks brace vehicles under repair or are used for sitting on in a group meeting. Small rocks fill in potholes or strengthen a worn path. Soil is the main ingredient, along with water and sand for brick making. Sometimes dry straw is added. Long poles are seen in construction of tall buildings as support while cement dries. Poles are used for building fences.

Water is recycled from food preparation, laundering, bathing to moisten compost piles. Any vegetable or animal matter is added to the compost pile. After grains are separated from their stocks, animals get the scraps. Fires are built from previous embers, which easily relight, or small twigs that are fanned into flames. Then small tree/bush branches increase the heat before larger, longer tree limbs, that are continually being adjusted and pushed deeper into the burning fire. (Infinitesimal heat) Flaming sticks are carried by villagers, young and old, to start their fire elsewhere. One sees straw used in same way. Embers fill old fashioned irons to press clothes in Burkina.

While barefoot is common so are flip-flops (some with well worn holes), some with holes repaired with staples or stitching materials. Hats are protection from the sun and rain. Foulards wrap women's hair, but also tightly curled up are a buffer for the myriad things Burkinabe' carry on their heads. Anything with a round shape, children use as wheels on toys they put together to drag, pull and push. They spend hours racing and folling bike tires around.

In this culture where poverty abounds, leftover food is always in demand by someone. Because people walk, there's alsways a need to get things transported in anyway possible. Bush taxi drivers deliver personal communication or money to individuals in villages along their route. As well as chickens, goats, all sorts of cargo. Bikes and motos are regular cargo. Sacks of grain and ground maise, millet, sorghum are ususal as well as cannisters for propane and larger batteries.

After offices discard typing paper, one may get their roadside fried snack wrapped in a page from some document. Newspapers that make it to village are read over by numerous people, then maybe used again to wrap something else in. Cardboard boxes are used many times over, patched together, and finally used a fire fuel at the end of its life. Necessity is the mother of invention when it comes to recycling in Burkina. Now...how to transport this philosophy home.....


First two weeks of April 2009

When I was driven back to village by PC driver Michelle, the whole compound came out to meet me, including the two family chefs, Salame and Hamadou. Minata and Aminata, my closest neighbors hugged me, as did many others. The 50 plus kids of our quartier were also there celebrating my return. Garrett came right over after his pkg and to say welcome back, as did Georges, my language teacher. Georges brought food, a meal Laurentine had prepared: fish, tomatoes, cabbage with bread and mangoes for dessert. That evening I slept on my porch on my cot and the neighbor girls all came over to sleep there with me on their mats. Sleeping under the stars and moon is healing too.

Zanabou and I pedaled to church, where the congregation was gathering on the bluff for palms to process to the church hangar for Palm Sunday service. As we neared our path home afterwards, a 4x4 was stopped near the Sala barrage. The people in the vehicle were from NGO working with Ghana and Burkina Faso on projects regarding bodies of water. Interesting!

That Monday I went to the CSPS clinic and spoke to everyone there, they were happy to see me. I thanked them all for their help two weeks earlier when I took ill. I greeted the new accoucheuse and went by the two eateries to greet my friends, Awa and Fati. That week the kids carried my water home and watered the Moringa trees for me on my porch. The girls pampered me by doing my dishes and sweeping out my house.

During my language lessons, I translated American student letters into French to give the Burkina students. It is good practice and rather tedious.

When I returned home from Ouaga I brought another roll of fencing, so when Karim came to visit, I talked with him about securing the fence so that we can replant the Moringa trees next to the maternite'. He agreed to get new taller posts for the fence, which will be twice as high now.

That Thursday when I was at the clinic weighing babies, the Country Director, Doug came to pay a visit. He was happy to see I was doing better. He called my place “homey” and esp liked the shelves Chris had built me. After stopping at Garrett's, his circuit took him next to KDG to visit 4 PCVs there.

One evening I had a simple tea party with my neighbor girls. This occasion was enhanced with the Girl Scout cookies, Connie left me. I shared with the kids that we have tea parties at my house in America for all the young relatives. They could get into that I believe.

Saturday Abdoulaye and I had all the women in the quartier try on lovely tee-shirts Nancy had kindly sent for them. There were still a few children who had not gotten their shirts so we did them too. The women were so excited they lined up on the veranda waiting their turn to come in and try on their shirt. Everyone went home happy!

My friend Achille came from KDG for a visit after my stroke, and to make sure my health had returned. That night happened to be Easter vigil at church, which we attended that evening. The service and baptism were taking place by the big bonfire near catechist's house. We proceeded to the hangar thereafter for a three hour lovely service. {See photos.)

It was mid-April when the wind came up and the temperature dropped 15 degrees within an hour before it began raining. Finally a break from all the 100 degree days.

The major drove us 8K to Basmnore' his natal village to do a sensibilisation on hand washing with the 150 students of the school there. The director Nebie' Julien greeted us along with the PTA president and two other officials of the group. They were all there to see the sensibilisation too. Mr. Nebie' brought all three classes together in the largest schoolroom and we set up our causerie. Four volunteers participated in demonstrating proper hand washing to their peers. We encouraged the students to talk with their families about the lesson learned today. The students like the chant and were led through it alternately by Georges and by the school director. I passed out balls of soap for each classroom. We had a photo session outside with all the students, and I can have it blown up like a school photo for them. The PTA group and the major's birth family relatives gave us a chicken as a gift. We also enjoyed benga and mui (beans and rice) there.



Last weeks of April 2009

I needed to go to Ouaga to get my Visa for Ghana and all the trip plans organized. I took the bus from Sabou. I also went to see Manoj, travel agent, who booked my Ghana flight. My charge card did not work for it as I had not informed the company that I would be gone to Africa and so my attempt to charge the trip met with security block. But soon thereafter Angela spoke to the credit card people, who cleared my card for use in Africa.

Back in village I helped weigh babies and then observed a nurse change the dressing on Sita's thumb. Her thumb got pierced in the field, and was infected and swollen badly. I also learned that there was a Tetanus Campaign going on this week, as directed by the Minister of Health. That meant I would need to reschedule a sensibilisation at Zao School for the students until the following Wednesday.

That evening I received a visit from Georges and his brother, Maxime, who came from the city of Bobo. I was happy to give Maxime the laptop computer donated by the church group in Eugene, Oregon for his use in his seminary work. I explained to him that my PCV friends took the laptop to a store in Ouaga, the capitol, for changing the English keyboard into French. Then my friends (all computer whizzes) installed the French computer programs for him. The seminarians have to write out their personal history and Maxime told me that all the candidates, but him, have computers they use. His joy was a pleasure to witness.



First week of March 2009

On Friday the school was having a theater group perform a skit on health issues. The district in Bougnounou had set it up. We went to watch, and see if it dovetailed our sensibilisations, which it did. The PTA group was there with many elders from the quartiers, as was the village chef. The local student actors did a fine job with the hygiene theme. The focus was on hand washing and cleaning the dishes before preparing and eating meals. The “father” didn't want the children changing his behavior, so was resistant to the information. But as one after another of his children got ill, he went into action. First buying medication from street vendors, later taking them to the clinic for appropriate help. The kids imitating the adults was hilarious. Everyone enjoyed the performance. (See photos.) The district education official spoke to the parents at length afterwards.

This week I gave Abdoulaye, my 15 yr old neighbor boy, an apple. His first ever! He loved it. Fati, 11 wrote Connie a letter, thanking her for coming to Africa and asking for a backpack, flip flops and skirt and blouse, all for school. I took Zanabou to church one Sunday, as she enjoys the service. En route we stopped down the hill where the neighbors and some paid laborers are building Issaka's new house. (See photos.) Several nights the sky lit up with thunder and lightening. I would sit outside an hour in the evenings to observe the beautiful show!

That week we did two school sensibilisations, one at Salo and one at Zao. Georges borrowed a moto from a friend, Koala Jean for the first trip to Salo (8K), and we took the teachers each a Moringa seedling. They were so glad we came. We talked with the younger students (87) first and there were four volunteers for demonstrating proper teeth brushing to their comrades. Then the older ones (100) were all together and we had eight volunteers. Both groups loudly sang the chant from our last talk with them. They obviously enjoyed learning it. I left student letters from Harmony School in Vancouver for them to write to pen pals. I encouraged the teachers who wanted to write to the teachers at Harmony as well.

The next day we again borrowed a moto from CSPS to travel to Zao School (15K). We filled it with gas and oil, and text the director of the delay. He gave a French answer “Pas de Probleme!” that one hears daily in Burkina. Once we arrived we did two presentations, one for the younger grades and one for the older. After we put up our demo posters, the director had us remain in that classroom and he changed the students. Thus we didn't move. There were also two preschoolers underfoot and a newborn goat in the classroom, which proved interesting.

We talked with the students about proper nutrition, teeth brushing, and had examples of hard things that break teeth, i.e. metal, bone, glass, rock, etc. They agreed they all have some family or neighbors with missing or broken teeth, and we expressed our hope that with daily care they make it to old age with all their teeth healthy. When we got to the chant, Kuba, the director thought up lyrics for this causerie: “Si tu veux la bonne sante', broussez-toi les dents; A patte dentrifriche, broussez-toi les dents” (to “Michael row your boat ashore”).

I gave the student letters with drawings attached, addressed to the Zao students to the director and the other teachers from Harmony Elementary. Several teachers complimented us on the presentation and were happy we came there. Kuba invited us to his house next to the school for lunch of to' and sauce with green leaves and rabbit in it. He cut up fresh mangoes for dessert. I was content to be able to visit these small villages for student sensibilisations before going to Ghana next week.