African Adventure 8

01-03-08

I hear the women “pile the millet”, rhythmic sounds as two and three pound together this morning. Before going to the clinic I visit them under the old tree where they've done this activity forever. There are new faces, visitors, and all are getting ready for the marriage fete (feast) I'm sure. (See pictures.)

Lots of people come into CSPS and I recognize Beli from Zao, who helped bring in a young woman, who delivered twin boys two weeks ago. She is sick and on an IV line and gramma has the twins, who are extremely tiny and fragile looking. They have a tiny cry. When the mother tries to nurse them, she has no milk. I encourage her to drink water, as much as she can. The babies have trouble latching onto her nipples. I will go home, find my La Leche book and share some info with them somehow. They only speak Moore'.

The little boy and mother who were here yesterday are back. He is on another drip. He gives me a slight smile, I think he remembers me and the ball and jacks I gave him. When I talk to the major this morning, we discuss some questions I have about the village site locater map which I have to fill out for PC. He also answers some questions about the COGES and refers me to Gansonre for info on the Microplan and statistics for Sala. I also discuss with the major my desire to do a questionnaire or presentation in some villages regarding the main health problems they are having.

When I return from my home, I give the twins' mother, Nebia, Atia, the quilt for her twin (jumeau) boys that aunt Sal made last Fall. She is happy as I tell her mother that my friend in America made it for a new African baby. (See pictures). I show Atia the pictures in the LLL book, then copy them by hand and write the words under each one in French, and Beli says he will find someone to translate them into Moore' for her. The pictures describe how to position the babies, and how to encourage suckling. I bring her an orange drink and Beli encourages her to drink lots of water. I discuss with the RNs and the trainees that the babies need to eat every two hours around the clock to survive. I ask them about the meds she is on and if they restrict her milk production. I spend time with them as we bridge the communication gap.

I am home studying for my upcoming work with the villagers, when I hear lots of bustling next door. Sikinata is pounding arachide (peanuts) and Minata flips the powder in a tray to get rid of any peanut skins. Zanabou is making tô (long o) which is a staple in the Burkinabe' diet. They are preparing food for the marriage feast this weekend. I go over and watch the men set up the lights and loudspeaker for the dance tonight. Some women are filling a big plastic tarp with ground millet to dry on my porch. No bride and groom yet. I gather he is coming home from Cote D'Ivoire to get married.

That evening I bring my chair over to watch the dancing which begins after dark. They watch me too. The teen girls from across the village come up and greet me. There are dozens and dozens of youth gyrating to the music. Everyone in village knows there will be a wedding tomorrow and they can come to any of the festivities. My two nurse trainee friends show up and ask where I live, so I show them my place. They point out on my big BF map on the wall the villages near Koudougou they each come from. After socializing for awhile, I invite them to the Mass at the Thyou barrage in the morning, a decent walk down a path from my place. The kids keep dancing through the night, laughing and copying the moves from the more experienced ones. I turn in at 11, but the music goes on until 3am.

02-03-08 “Pelerinage au Barrage”

Activities are starting outside in my quartier early this day because of the wedding. The chef comes over to our compound, so I quickly grab my pagne to wrap around my shorts, and go outside to greet him and the two gentlemen with him. About that time Minata takes my hand and escorts me into Salam's quartier to see the women gathered in a hut. They have two huge mesh sacks filled with cooking ware for the new bride. The young woman is sitting in this space, sequestered until her wedding. While we are nearby her home, we stop and greet the premiere femme of the compound, Kietomougo. The women of my two quartiers continue preparing food all day.

Both Zanobou and Abdoulaye are going to the pilgrimage with me this morning. It is a huge event, and people from miles around attend. Lots of them go to the Catholic Church in Thyou and walk the distance to the barrage, about 1.5 K away. But we are walking on a path from the other direction and will be there in time to see the people arrive there who make the pilgrimage. Already when we get to the dike road, we see the tent set up for Mass on the west side of the barrage under the trees. We find a good location on the south side of the congregation area to put our bench, which Zanabou carried from home on her head for us to sit on during the service. Others are there waiting too.

We can hear the drumming as the people coming get nearer, and suddenly they are coming en masse across the field and through the trees. Georges led the chanters to the barrage. As they all get settled, the 5 priests are getting ready too. The opening prayer and singing by the youth choir from Sabou is very good. Georges led the Thyou choir and the congregation through much of the other singing. (See picture.) There were drums and organ music, and the sound system had a few squeaks too. The priests each led various parts of the service. The people there laughed at the sermon the young priest gave, and I later learned he told a story about a monkey with a stomach ache, who was advised not to eat the fruit of a certain tree. He refrained for three days and then relented and got sick again and died. It is a tree with blossoms/fruit that are short lived but very lethal. I'm thinking the moral was about temptation.

At the offertory part of Mass, some villagers carried high a big basket of produce to place on the altar too. The priests all passed out communion as the choirs kept singing. The backdrop of the water in the barrage, and under very old trees made the outdoor mass especially beautiful. Towards the end of the service a catechist announced the amounts each neighboring parish had pledged and collected for the project to build a new church. They are very poor but giving people.

There was a market of sorts set up nearby where people attending this “Pelerinage” could get something to eat and drink while socializing with each other. We found the sisters from the CREN, and some of the older ladies we invited from the complex in Sabou. We met Georges two daughters, and most of his extended family. We found pork and bread and made sandwiches for everyone, as we all sat under a tree on benches. Later the girls and I found the African dancing that was going on in one area. We had fun dancing like Africans to the local music, and I followed the lead of the women in the circle stepping in rhythm to the sounds. The kids laughed as I tried out my steps, and later I heard from a lot of different people who either saw me there or heard I was there. Then it was time to go home.

We got to our compound in the afternoon to find the wedding feast happening. The ceremony was apparently over. We spoke to the men gathered under the hangar, slicing the roasted mouton meat and we got plates of food. We heard the women in the courtyard dancing, so we joined them after we ate. Abdoulaye and I watched his mother lead the Moore' chanting in her rich voice. The women invited me to dance, then passed me a veil to tie on my waist. The men drummed the calabashes and strummed the strings on the gas can and made beautiful music on homemade instruments. The festivities went on into the night.

03-03-08

This morning when I arrived at the clinic, the major was in a new orange boubou talking with people. Meanwhile Gansonre was looking for a woman's chart to find the diagram highlighting where her leprosy was on her body at the last exam. It had gone from her back and sides to both elbows and was now on her hands. In the main area the two trainees and Philippe, RN were treating 3-4 patients on IVs. I chatted with the major telling him I was preparing my presentation in French for his review. He gave it two thumbs up. Next I asked for the Microplan of the clinic for the next year, and was given that to read and glean info from. At this point I understood there will be a COGES mtg this afternoon, and I was invited.

I visited the marche' briefly that day to get supplies, food and visit people. Several people were happy to tell me they saw me dance Sunday after the church service at the barrage. Villagers like it when one tries to emulate their customs, and dancing is definitely one. Soon Garrett and I were eating a salad at the marche' and talking about the visa he is getting to go to Togo soon. I also found my friend Marie and we had a dolo together at the hangar.

In the late afternoon the COGES meeting started and lasted an hour. There were about 6 people there from the members of the group. The major and Gansonre ran the meeting with the president and treasurer responding with discussion at some points. My French professor arrived in time for the meeting and took some notes for me as it was all in French. He explained the discussion to me later. The major had to leave before it was over, and the next meeting will be the 30th of next month. Late in the meeting Gansonre invited me to explain my project to the members, so I did that after I introduced myself and confirmed their names. I told them I was going to present to three groups, Zao, Bolo and my quartier to have a discussion about health issues for them, using PACA tool for “Needs Assessment Matrix”. Gansonre helped demonstrate the tool to the GOGES members. We are set to begin on Wed.

After we returned to my house we spent time working on my French translation of the presentation and had tuna salad and tea. We rewrote the presentation. The next morning we took a copy over for the major and Gansonre to review. They liked it, especially the questions at the end about how does one get the main identified health problem, and how does the community treat the person with that problem. Then Gansonre told me the police were coming to take him to Zao regarding a construction accident there. He was finishing up with the patients he was seeing at the Sala clinic, showing the trainee how to flush out an eardrum on a 10yr old boy, who has put dirt down his.

After I left the clinic I went to the boutique to inquire about a taxi brousse to Gao. While there I visited the men out front and the older ones were patient with my Moore efforts. That was fun. I also visited more with the stagierre infirmiers. They want an American contact and they were cooking benga and invited me to eat with them. It was excellent, and Alexi was the cook.

After my language lesson, George and I discussed the presentation Wednesday and he asked whether the COGES were invited. I said sure, as I had given the details for everyone to know. They had mentioned at their meeting that they accompanied the last PCV to the sensibilisations. I am open to this.

05-03-08

We made our final preparations to go to Zao. George biked 15 K to Sabou for a black marker because there wasn't one here anywhere. What a trooper! We made the matrix on butcher paper, so it is ready for our work today. We stopped by the CSPS to touch base with the major before heading south to Dana and then Zao. He said the COGES were at the district today, and would not be coming. When we arrived at Zao, we found Beli and Atia, my friend, who took us to the marche' for benga. Many villagers were gone to a funeral so the presentation did not begin until afternoon under a big tree near the route. Beli retrieved benches and a blackboard for our use. We reviewed the presentation with Beli the AA for Zao and he offered to translate it into Guerrinsi for the villagers right after Georges translated my French statements into Moore'. As the crowd gathered, about 20 women, 10 men and 30 children, we commenced. After introductions, I explained that I wanted their help in discussing the most significant health problems in their village. I said we would use the matrix that I learned in Corps de la Paix. We would divide into smaller groups to identify the health issues. The first part went well. When we divided up Beli took the men, Patrice took another group and George took a big group of women. Each group came up with five health issues and we merged the lists until we had five for the matrix, and then began comparing every two issues. That was going pretty well and then an older gentleman started debating the merits of the process and the fact that it was midday, so we should give them money for their lunch he argued. I tried to ignore him, which was not the right thing to do. People started leaving.

Additionally some people requested medicine from us when they heard we were from the health clinic. A woman showed me her toddler's burn, where a 1” square of flesh was missing from her little foot. An older woman wanted aspirin for her headache.

It was determined that Diarrhee was the principle issue for this village. My closing three questions and statement did not occur this time. We ended the event as the headmaster from the school came by to say Hi. When we went back to the marche' Mdm. Kiemte from Thyou greeted us. She was there selling things, and I realized I had sat next to her on the last transport to Ouaga. She was so excited to see me and we talked quite a while.

I thanked both Beli and Atia for their help and support with our efforts in Zao. As we pedaled back home with the first presentation behind us, I felt OK, thinking it was a good effort for the first one. I assured Georges I couldn't have done it without his help and translation. I said I know I don't have the language yet to do this by myself, but in spite of that I want to be here! He told me that the language will come.

06-03-08

Thursday morning, time to weigh babies! The accoucheuse let me weigh the last four and write their birth weight in the register and in their health books. Soon the infirmier stagierres came to the maternite' and said they had a mother in delivery. There were two grammas in the waiting area, but it was going to be awhile I learned. I headed over to the school but no one was there. So I stopped at the quartier across from the school and found that the older man who was giving me Moore' words at the boutique yesterday lives here. We chatted and then a woman brought out benga and maise for me to eat. It was very good, and what I didn't finish the kids in the quartier were glad to eat.

My lesson was late today because George's daughter had his bike and wasn't aware of the time. We did a new dialogue and I read a chapter out of the primer. We agreed to meet at 7am to ride together to Sabou because he also was going to KDG for the weekend to visit his wife, and they would view the tombstone for their baby, which is supposed to be done by then. Later as I packed for Koudougou, I nearly cried when I opened the box Sally sent me with two new baby quilts and many other things for people in village.

07-03-08

Minata tied everything onto my bike and away I went in the morning. Georges was waiting in Thyou for me and we pedaled together to Sabou in an hour. We checked on the transport over to KDG which was supposed to leave at 9am, but after we found an omelette stand and returned, it was clear it would be much longer than that. I urged him to leave for KDG before it got any hotter, and he actually arrived there about the time we left Sabou on transport, 11:15am. Another woman from Thyou named Awa traveled to KDG with me and wants to visit me next Tuesday at my house. Since she spoke Moore' and I don't yet, a young man, Eric translated for us.

After I settled in at the mission, I went to the internet and then after about 45 minutes the power in town went out. My friend Alassone had joined me at the internet cafe to observe, and I promised to call him when I returned there.

At 5:15 the stations of the cross began at the mission. I walked behind the crowd and enjoyed the French hymns. I met my friend Achille at the Conference Center for dinner and to visit. He brought me a cahier of French phrases that he had copied. I had a pair of sandals for him, which fit nicely, and he was both surprised and happy. We both went to the cybercafe and the power was back on, so I called Alassane who came and joined us. Achille followed me home to the mission for safety.

08-05-08

Today is the “International Woman's Day” which is celebrated in a big way in Western Africa. The banks and poste were closed, but the market was open. There was a parade and presentation at the stadium in KDG. (See picture.) I texted Achille and when he came we walked to the grandstand where people were giving speeches in honor of the day. We went to the marche' and searched for material made specially for “Jour de la Femme 2008”. We found one pagne for 4 mill, way too much money! I will wait to get three pagne, enough to have a dress made. While there we bought wonderful peanut butter at the marche' and bread to make sandwiches with our avocados.

We went to the internet around 3 and Zach was there, a volunteer whom I met with JZ in December in KDG. Zach said a bunch of volunteers were staying with Melissa and everyone was going to dinner tonight at 6 or 7. We were invited to join them, but I hedged on the invitation. Pretty soon Nakiesha called me and said she was coming to get me for dinner. She scolded me for not calling them that I was coming to KDG. So Achille and I joined Kelly, Melissa, Nakeisha, Justin, and Zach for brouchettes and beer. We bought salad across the street and that rounded out our meal. They were fun to be around and welcoming to my friend. Achille followed me safely home before heading to his place.

09-03-08

The church bells at the seminaire woke me up at 6, and again at 8 they rang, but the priest last night told us mass was at 8:30, so when Achille arrived this morning and we walked over to the church, the overflow crowd was sitting on benches outside the building. The sermon was occurring when we got there, and then we threaded our way up for communion. The singing was wonderful and the priest had a good tone too. Of course the seminarians were angelic in sound. We walked back to my porch to eat the omelette sandwiches Achille had brought, then we had a visit from Georges and his wife, Laurentine, who had also gone to Mass at the seminaire today. The dining room chef gave me coffee to serve my guests.

Laurentine had greeted me warmly, touching the sides of our heads together. Georges said that the cross and heart tombe for their infant was not done. They had spent most of Saturday dealing with that. The metal work was done, and there was a coat of black paint on the tombstone, but the writing wasn't there. Georges and Achille discussed it a long time and eventually came up with the plan that Achille would do the lettering for Jean Marc Kiemtore', ne 23 Avril 2007, dec 15 Fevriere 2008. Sign painting is the line of work that Achille and his brother, Serafine do in Koudougou.

We looked at pictures on my laptop, before going to the internet cafe to post my blog. I had packed up my things and all four of us went down to the gare, where one catches the taxi brousse back over to Sabou. Turns out there wasn't going to be transport until very late, after 6pm. And that means it would be dark by the time that I would be riding my bike back 15 K to village.

The solution to that was that the driver would take me to the church in Sabou, and the priest would contact the sisters and see if I could possibly stay the night with them. The priest took me in his mini truck up the road a few kilometers to where the sisters were behind the new CREN we had visited. The sisters welcomed me, showed me to a room with a fresh bed, fed me dinner (the biggest meal I had in a long time), and we chatted about my work and theirs as we ate. Besides grace before and after the meal, Sister Mary said “Let's say hi to Jesus”, and showed me into a small chapel. Another interesting thing was the bathroom which had a shower, and two toilets, which is a typical French feature.

The next morning after mass in Sabou, we returned home for breakfast, another big meal. Srs. Amy and Margaret showed me their garden and their chicken house, and the mango on their petite fruit tree. (See pictures.) We all departed at the same time, me for Sala, and them for their weekly shopping in Koudougou. We exchanged information to stay in touch.

When I got home there was a big crowd gathered near the chef's compound celebrating the life of an older woman from there who had died. After a brief time getting ready, Minata and I went to the chef's quartier, where dancing, drumming and chanting were in full swing. Minata led the chant in her rich deep voice, while the women danced. When I danced the people got very animated, loving the effort. The chef was in traditional clothing, and I tried to capture these things in a couple pictures. Also Minata's brother, Gerard was shooting off a big old rifle to add to the celebratory atmosphere.

11-03-08

After braiding my hair this morning, which is getting easier with practice, I went to CSPS to talk with the major and Gansonre about contacting the ICPs in the satellite villages. I need to set up another presentation with villagers. I let the major know that I wanted to present to my quartiers here in Sala this week. He was patient with me and interested in my plans. I will confirm the date and time for him as I requested that someone from the clinic come and help with the presentation.

I found that the other questions I have are covered in the Microplan for 2008 that the CSPS had to develop. So I will borrow that and read it in French and translate it into English notes, so I can get my first quarterly report ready for Dr. Claude. Even in the PC there is tons of paperwork, reminds me of working for the state in Oregon.

I visited at the maternite' briefly before going over to the elementary school in Sala to give some things to the headmaster for the students. Edward is very interested in an exchange of letters from his school to the one in my hometown with the students at Harmony. I took a picture of him with a lot of students who had gathered there on the steps in front of his classroom to post for the students back home to see. (See photo.) The African students laugh when I show them the digital photo right away.

The temperature today is 105 degrees, and difficult to handle and study French and Moore well. Before the evening was over, I smelled rain in the air. Minata sent over tô and aubergine sauce for dinner. I had fried up some plaintain, so we were set. I asked Minata to invite the people from our compound to the presentation on Thursday morning at 9am. We all played a long game of Uno.

13-03-08

The night before the two nurses in training were on my front porch, waiting for me when I returned from the market. We reviewed the material for my presentation tomorrow, because we all assumed they would be helping with it. But no, this morning the major came over on his moto at 9am and he helped us with the project himself. The consensus was that we would do it under the big tree in front of both quartiers. The number of people attending were 20 women, 10 men and beau coup the children. The presentation went pretty smoothly with mine in French and Moore' translation by my teacher. The major led the men's group through the discussion of major health issues, while Georges led the women, who convened on my porch. The men finished quickly, so the major came over to watch the women wrap up. He noted that they had not included Palu (Malaria) in their top 5 health issues, so he talked to them about seeing so many patients for that and from bad water all winter in clinic here. The major in action is amazing to watch. Everyone loves and respects him very much.

Finally we settled on five issues for the matrix and compared each pair. Palu was number one issue by then. I asked the three questions and recited my conclusion thanking them for their time, etc. Then they applauded our efforts. That was satisfying.

That afternoon Awa, my new friend from the transport to KDG, came to my house with a huge bag of peanuts for me. We had seen her earlier in the week at market and she said she would come by after my presentation. Voila! I made lunch and Georges and Minata spoke with Awa in Moore'. She and I just hung out, looking at pictures of my family.

14-03-08

I finished translating the Microplan from French to English today. I had a morning language lesson because it is Friday in Lent and 1600 is the hour of the stations of the cross too. Then we went over to the CSPS to see if the nurse trainees were still coming over for dinner tonight. I want them to try tuna salad. They insisted that we stay for riz gras. We did and it was excellent. They expressed that they were sorry to miss the presentation at my quartiers, but listened to our report of the major helping us.

In the afternoon Garrett visited with me and we talked about our blogs and also his upcoming trip to Togo. He said the visa to Togo cost him 25 mill. Seems high, but I really don't know.

A tall beautiful teacher asked to go with me to “Chemin la Crois” today. I stopped on the way back home for some things for the salad tonight. When I got home I did some prep work on our dinner, then Kassoum and Alexi showed up at 6:30pm and we chatted over a cup of tea. I showed them the tuna pkg and also the dressing pkg. I gave them the directions to Uno in French for their information as we would be playing that later. This evening would be an American experience for them. Two teen girls came by on the pretense of visiting me, but pretty soon they were acting shy and eventually the trainees went out on the porch and chatted with them.

By 7:30 we were eating dinner, after which we moved out onto the porch which was much cooler and played Uno until 10pm. They loved it and we all had such fun. After I bid everyone Good Night I went to bed.


15-03-08

I read French primers with the Catechist's two sons, Bertrand and Claude. They are adorable and such nice boys. Later in the morning I returned the Microplan back to the CSPS and saw the two trainees there. They delivered two babies this morning. I went in to see the one still there and the newborn had vernix on its head it was so new. The stagierres and I exchanged phone numbers for later contact. Abdoulaye had washed my bike and Zanabou had washed my clothes and with Minata'a permission I gave them each 100 CFA. I passed out bonbons to the children and mothers in my quartiers, which is always exciting. They were happy. I spent the rest of the day packing for the next three weeks, when I would be in training. One week at Ouaga for Health Sector stuff, the next week in OHG, where we did our original in country training. There we would go back to our host villages and practice with some of the village work we will be doing in our assigned placements. And the third and last week will be in our regional capital city KDG for more local language training.

The next day, Sunday I spent the entire morning waiting for transport to Ouaga. Most taxi brousse were already loaded down and didn't even stop for us. Two musicians played for me while I was waiting. Finally a camion stopped and three or four of us got aboard to travel to Sabou where we would catch a taxi brousse. The one problem with this picture was that when I asked to sit up front (because I can't stand up for any time in the back of a big truck) the old man, young woman with her baby in lap and the driver were already there and not going anywhere. I sat on the front edge of the seat by the passenger door, which was fastened with a black rubber strap!?! So for safety I hung on dearly to the uncovered vents that were on the dashboard. We stopped along the way for other passengers too, and in Sabou the driver had someone take me to the transport spot. So generosity comes with ying yang inherent.

When I arrived at the transit house a big cheer went up, esp from Becky who is the closest to my age, 25 years younger. We get along famously and I was very glad to see her. We went around the corner to happy hour and caught up a bit. The PC car was coming at 6:30pm to take all of us in the Health Sector over to Dr. Claude's house for a catered dinner in their back yard. Her husband is the Minister of Justice for Burkina Faso and that position comes with a few benefits, this lovely home in a gated community being one of them. Dr. Claude said how proud she was of us and the work we are doing and most of all our enthusiasm. Doug Teschner, the new country director of PC in Burkina Faso was also there, and in his welcoming remarks he quoted Thoreau, from On Walden Pond, who said something like, “To get to the essence of life, I went into the woods to find my core.” Doug Teschner fit PCV into that image metaphorically.

16-03-08 First week of IST (In Service Training)

Some of the things we did this week were: Field Trip to Health Ministry Office, also presentation by the Palu (Malaria) Director, Field Trip to the American Embassy and talks from different department heads, a Safety and Security session, a talk by the BF director of Unicef, a Nutrition class with samples of good protein and local foods, grains and powders to enrich what villagers eat. Dr. Claude brought the powders, grains and plants in with labels and told us the merits of each. On Friday afternoon we had a NGO (Non-Governmental Organizations) fair, and finally most of us in village got a class on safety while riding on a motobike, when we travel to remote villages. Most of us were fitted for our helmets. We can't drive motos, only ride with someone on one, like our counterpart in village.

During the week our meals were catered into the PC bureau where we had our trainings, and we enjoyed this luxury after three months in village eating one dish meals,etc. Another night we had a backyard barbecue at the new director's home. Other program directors assisted with this, as Doug's wife will not be here until college lets out in America. At the end of the meal Mr. Teschner auctioned off some treats for correct answers to questions like, When did PC begin? Who was the first PC director? Name the 6 countries that surround BF, etc. It evoked a lot of laughter. We ate downtown a couple times too as we caught up on each other's life in village.

Saturday afternoon I walked over to St. Francis of Assisi's to find out the Mass time tomorrow, Easter Sunday. While I was there I inquired about Confession/Reconciliation and a woman found a seminarian, who in turn found a priest for me. I had told both people that I needed to do it in English, which didn't happen. So I did my first confession in French, some kind of milestone I believe. I have no idea if he understood me as I made up some vocabulary along the way. But I did understand when he gave me one Our Father and three Hail Mary's to say for penance.

On Easter Sunday I walked the eight blocks to Charles De Gaul Blvd to church. The choir danced in to the entrance chant, as the five priests and 8 altar boys entered too. The French Mass was spectacular. Two high school choral groups led the songs with the congregation responding with the refrains. The musicians were sitting to the left of the altar, and the choral director was at a microphone in front too. Soloists used the microphone, and then at the offertory, youth brought up baskets of fresh vegetables while the ushers carried forward the baskets of French currency. The host was gigantic. The altar boys rang the bells three times as the bread and wine were blessed and consecrated. At communion two priests went outside to offer communion to the throngs of people out there listening over the loud speakers.

As Mass neared completion the choirs (all in navy slacks and light blue tailored shirts) sang a medley of hymns. Women trilled and people swayed to the rhythm. When the priests left the altar, the choir spontaneously formed a line to encircle the altar in praise of the Lord for His resurrection. (See picture.)

24-03-08 Second week of IST in OHG

The first day we traveled from Ouagadougou to Ouahigouya, a three hour bus ride. After settling in at ECLA, where we had had our Pre Service Training, Becky and I rode our bikes out to Somyaga, our host village to visit our families there. A huge crowd was at the school for a football (soccer) game. My host brother, Madi stopped on the moto, greeted me and took my bags. Then my host sister, Aguerra came running from the soccer game to greet me. She took my bike along side me as we walked toward home. Then I saw the family coming to meet me. Orokia and I started running. And we hugged a long time. Then I hugged the teen girls in the family, then the little kids. As we neared the mango tree out front of the maison, Azita and Amade were waiting. Another round of hugs. Awa and I trilled some kind of high notes. It was a glorious reunion, and oh! how I missed them the three months in between.

We sat on the porch a while, then they showed me my old room was empty and clean. I got out my box of tee shirts for everyone, socks for Amade and earrings for all the women in the family. I gave them a new deck of cards, and passed around suckers. Everyone put on their new shirts for a picture. It was great fun. We chatted for a time and when Becky came, they wanted so bad for us to eat with them and stay overnight. We told them that we couldn't this night, but we would negotiate with Peace Corps for letting us stay another night this week after we did an activity in their village. At dusk we departed but Orokia and Fatimata followed us up to the paved road, and then the whole rest of the way into town. They wanted to assure our safety. We promised to return.

This week in OHG we learned: Presentation at School on Hygiene, especially getting intestinal maladies from the flies. We learned how to make ORS with water, sugar and salt, and songs to also show the students. We talked about what to do on rainy days at village. Stephanie gave two soap making demonstrations. We learned about monitoring and evaluating our work in village to see if we made a difference. We did our school presentation on Wednesday, and told Amade that we would eat with them on Thursday and stay the night.

Another area we covered this week was Fund Raising; use of Theater Groups for getting Health issues to the people in a fun way. Dr. Claude set up a field trip for us with a group of traditional healers, a Q & A session really; another field trip to CREN for bre demonstration; and we learned how to train COGES members regarding setting goals, priorities and getting the community involved.

Friday morning when I woke up at my host family home, I could hear women's voices over at Awa's. I went over there and sure enough there was a room full of women, some from the group that dances. I loved seeing them all. Gramma Awa didn't want to let go when she hugged me. We went into another trilling round. She's worried about my arms being too thin. Somehow she and I bridge the language differences. Orokia brought hot cereal she made from millet, and Amade brought me bread and coffee and tea. I asked about the twins that were born the day I left village and Orokia went and got one with the mother and other twin following her. They were chubby and beautiful, the mother looked fabulous. I took pictures of course.

Before leaving for Somyaga, I also took many pictures of my host family. Hand in hand, Orokia, me and Fatimata walked to the hangar in the center of their village for the COGES training. The wind was pretty bad, so we moved into the lobby of the maternite' and when no members arrived for the meeting, we decided to use my family, which worked out well. We had a list of questions about SIDA(AIDS)-HIV which my host sister Fatimata translated into Moore' for the others who joined us. Some came to visit the new baby and mother in the maternite' and ended up answering questions with us too. It was a good discussion with Orokia there as she had some definite ideas on the subject. As we pulled away from village my family was waving and Amade motoed up right then too. I'm sure I wasn't the only teary one.

Back in OUA Robert and I had to go to town with Burema to get fitted for moto helmets. The driver let us shop across the street for fabric about Jour de la Femme 2008, and we negotiated 3 pagnes each for 5 mill 750CFA. We were happy with the deal. I had so many boxes come in the mail that I had to leave some at the Transit House for later pick up, but I managed to take four boxes with fans, batteries and things I need for the hot weather that's coming. When we got to KDG on the bus, I text my friend Achille, who came on a moto, strapped on my 4 boxes and took them with us to the seminaire, where we (Rob and I) are starting our third week of IST with JZ in Moore' language.

African Adventure 7

01-02-08

This morning I got ready to bike to Sabou to take a taxi brousse over to Koudougou. Georges had offered to accompany me on the bike ride and we met in Thyou at 6:30 to begin the 15K ride, which took just over an hour. After we checked for transport which wasn't leaving anytime soon, we found an omelette place in Sabou for breakfast. We had waited a long time for a bush taxi, when we saw that a camion was loading up and we considered that option, but I can't stand in the back. Georges struck a deal with the driver that for 1200 francs he would take all my stuff, bike and me (sitting up front). I bid my friend goodbye and it was nice to have a companion on the morning bike ride. The trip was uneventful across to KDG, for which I was thankful.

I stopped by the little store where I had left the brand new notepads on the counter, and after much explanation, they gave me two more. I loaded up on fruit, avocado and bread to make meals with and headed for the seminaire. The sister that handles the lodging was happy to see that I had returned after spending a week here in December. I tried to nap after a long hot shower (what a treat!) and then I biked to the cybercafe to use the internet. I had 57 msgs in my email, and spent a couple hours sorting through them. About that time the site crashed, so I returned to my chambre and typed on my laptop as long as my eyes lasted. There was a big conference with many people also at the petit seminaire, Notre Dame D' Afrique. I could hear them as I read my book into the evening, but things quieted down around 10, so I could easily sleep.

The next day Nakeisha texted me and we made a date to meet at the new marche' in the center of town to shop and from there go to lunch. When we did meet it was a warm reunion, Nakeisha is a wonderful young woman, so outgoing. Keisha and Melissa love to shop, and they showed me where to get the best (pate d' arachide) peanut butter. We found African gifts there, jewelry and carved animals to send home for gifts. Melissa was hunting for supplies for her home in KDG and Nakeisha wanted a CD player with a speaker. Of course the shopkeeper tried to sell her a big boom box, but with no luck. Nakeisha holds her own when it comes to bargaining in French!

We did lunch at a nearby conference center, where we enjoyed salads and trench fries in a private, outdoor setting under many big trees. We talked and talked to catch up on things since our training time together in OHG. We chatted about life in village. Keisha shared she has seen three babies born, and been to the primary school to meet the staff and students. She wants to start an English club after school. By chance her language tutor happened by, and he is the headmaster at her local school. Everyone in Peace Corps is encouraged to get a language tutor in village right away to help with their French, but also to learn the local tribal language. We are reimbursed up to 10 mil francs a month.

I met up with my friend Achille, who works at his brother's sign painting business downtown. He showed me around the shop. Then we biked a ways to his family compound because he said his father insists that I meet his grand soeur (big sister) and his grand frere again. Seraphin greeted me warmly and showed me his silk screening process he does on the computer. He was getting a big order of tee shirts ready and gave me a sample one with his logo on it.

At his parent's home, Achille carried his ailing father from his bed into the front room so we could visit. Maxime has a degenerating disease of the nerve system that wastes his muscles too. He enjoyed viewing the pictures I had on my camera showing what we did the previous weekend during Achille's visit with me at my village. He smiled proudly seeing his son in the photos. Cecile, his mother is also a sweet person and I insisted on a couple photos of Achille and her before I left. After that we spent some time at the internet, where he watched me post photos and answer emails.

03-02-08

I was outside this Sunday morning waiting for Achille, who came walking down the lane to the seminaire with his pedal in hand. We walked over to the church where the public was arriving and taking up pews, both front and center aisles were filled with the boys from the seminaire school. Soon 5 priests and 4 altar boys processed down the aisle and that wonderful singing led by their choral director commenced. Organ music and drumming was in the background. The mass was in French with a sermon that elicited laughter. The boys were neat and clean and sang beautifully. Much of mass was sung, very much like a high mass. After breakfast Achille and I went to the internet so I could post my blog, him walking and me riding my bike. Achille went off to fix his bike. When he returned I showed him the portfolio of Amade's relative, Haroun, who had an acrylic art display in Tuscon late February. When Haroun contacted my cousin Faye, they met for dinner and a mutual cultural experience. Several of my other cousins were there visiting too, and all thoroughly enjoyed his visit.

Achille accompanied me to the taxi brousse gare, for an transport that left 30 minutes ahead of schedule, so we waited two more hours for a car to Sabou. There I had to catch another transport to my village for an additional 750 francs. I was glad though that I hadn't tried to ride home in the dark. The driver left me off at the Sala boutique, and to my house then was a short way. Minata and family were glad to see me and she danced when I gave her the pommade de karite' for her skin. Turns out that this product is one of the top five exports from Burkina Faso. It sure works on my feet well!

04-02-08

When I went to the CSPS clinic this day the major told me about the semi-annual COGES meeting with the community which was at the school yesterday. He said it was well attended. Gansonre was working on the goals and objectives for the MicroPlan for Sala. He gave me the health plan to look at. I sat in the waiting room at the clinic as the five beds filled up with people sick with malaria and pneumonia. The major told me the maladies are often related. I watched as a small girl did not cry or even wince as Gansonre hooked up an IV to her right hand. Later I brought her a toy, ball and jacks, which I showed her big brother how to play. Her mother smiled approvingly as I motioned for permission for the child to take them with her free hand.

After my language class that day I went over to Gansonre's to watch the soccer match between Egypt and Cameroon (1-2) on black and white TV. There were others there very excited about the game too. Gansonre's wife, fixed dinner for all of us, spaghetti and salad. I got bread and drinks at the bavette to contribute to the meal. It was dark when we walked back home.

05-02-08

The major was already seeing many patients when I arrived at the clinic. He flushed out a little girl's ear until the debris came out with the water. They went outside for a better look into her canal as he showed her father and explained about the prescription for antibiotic and pain I think. (There is no electricity in village hence no indoor lighting either.) A listless baby was brought in, and checked for enlarged spleen/liver, then Gilbert carefully found a vein for the IV drip. Two Muslim women came in, one with obvious pain in the skeleton/muscle system. Another woman holding her infant came in with a young man. She uncovered an earlobe that hung below her jawbone, Elephantiasis is the name of this condition (not contagious, but no treatment the major told me). It was a very busy morning there.

For lunch, I went to the marche' and bought barbecued pork and bread for a sandwich. I found produce I needed, i.e. bananas, carrots, cabbage, lettuce, onions, and coconut. My neighbors led me to their hangar where one of the primary school teachers from Sala wondered why I was not at the COGES meeting last weekend. She brought over a man who could converse in English and translate for us. We walked over to the hangar my friends from church had and socialized with a variety of people I knew. I stopped by Garrett's place on the way home to see how his Ouaga trip had been to watch the Super Bowl Game on Sunday, at 11pm our time! He said it had an exciting finish.

After French lesson, we played a very long game of Uno with Abdoulaye. They love that game here. I text Shawn to wish him happy birthday before the day was done.

06-02-08 Ash Wednesday

I called the PC bureau in Ouaga about some of my medications and about my glasses this morning. I went to the little boutique in Sala to let the shopkeeper know Peace Corps would send those things there by transport today or tomorrow. When I went to the clinic I found Gilbert handling all the medical problems, as the major was gone to KDG and Gansonre was gone to the district for a meeting. Gilbert had a baby and two women on IV drips, with others waiting to be seen.

After an afternoon of French homework and my lesson, Minata told me my pkg had arrived at the boutique, so I went to get it. The morning was cooler, but then the hot wind began blowing and the day turned very hot, and it is only February. I was sweating! As darkness fell, the children in my compound were playing very hard and loving it, as it is too hot to sleep yet. Abdoulaye said my unit is cooler than theirs because of the windows and cross ventilation. They often sleep on mats in the yard.

I read in the evening, and I can hardly put the “Kite Runner” down, a story of an Afghanistan man with very deep emotions. I cry more often than not when I read this book. Across cultures the core things about family life have a similar ring to them.

07-02-08

Pierette, the accoucheuse had a total of 20 women with their infants at the Maternite' this morning as baby weighing began. She let me help. I weighed over half of the babies there. A scale suspends from the doorway frame and the baby sits in a soft plastic seat, registering their weight. I recorded the numbers in the register where she tracks it. This baby weighing is a fun task.

I practiced in a new reader, in both Moore and French today. Then we listened to two soccer games back to back on the radio; Ghana and Egypt, also Cote d'Ivoire and Cameroun. Abdoulaye borrowed scissors and tape to work on his model while we sat listening to the games. Zanabou came too, and we read her French primer. Shawn called and told me on his birthday Jodi surprised him with dinner at his favorite Indian restaurant with a few friends. I'm sure it was fun to have their new baby son at the party.

08-02-08

I woke up reading the Kite Runner, so many things in life are bittersweet! Come to Africa and face memories in America!

Grilled cheese sandwich is one of my favorite breakfasts here: slice the baguette, spread “Laughing Cow” cheese on the crust side, butter the fresh bread side, and put it in the fry pan. With a piece of fruit and a cup of coffee, I start my day! I was in the waiting room, when the major invited me to observe. He tested a man for high blood pressure and gave him Lasilix. Next he saw a 5 month old baby for Palu, with no weight record to be found. He said “Rate Gross”- pneumonia, and prescribed oral medication. Then he saw a man around 30, with Ancien Malade (old injury) for which he gets an antibiotic shot and pills.

I had my French lesson before noon today due to my teacher leading Stations of the Cross at church every Friday during lent at 4pm, the usual time of my lesson. Georges had conjugated avoir and etre in four tenses with the rules governing them for me to study. He also wrote out a dialogue about a fire in the field for us to practice in both French and Moore'. It proved interesting.

During this time, one of the PC program directors called to invite me to participate in a diversity workshop for managers, under the direction of Andrea, an Eng speaking Senegalese with the Western African PC Program. Six-eight recent volunteers were invited it turns out, from different ethnic backgrounds. I fit into that category being the only senior volunteer in the West Africa area. I agreed that on February 20 I would come to the capitol to join the group.

In the afternoon and before the service at church “Chemin de Croix”, we went to the marche' in Thyou. It was very slow, as during lent (Careme) there is no dolo on Fridays, hence the lack of business. I shopped for my veggies, and we got bread and fried fish to make a sandwich. As we sat on a log and made our lunch, we were visited by several beggars, which still catches me by surprise, as they are persistent. The carpenter, Gerard came by too, and promised to bring my bookcase on Sunday to my house. He bikes it on top of his head he tells me.

We also stopped at Garrett's place was on the way to church. We stopped there for water refill and short visit. The crowd gathered in the hangar at church, and processed along the dirt driveway stopping ever so often for prayers and chanting at one X on the ground symbolizing a station of the cross. Georges led the group in the songs, one particularly beautiful Moore' chant “Jesus ya Toogo” he taught me on our bike ride back. He text his brother Maxime and called his femme in KDG, where he is going tomorrow for the weekend to visit his wife and baby.

On Saturday I thought I might check out the clinic on the weekend to see how busy they are. First I went to buy more cellular units. On the way I stopped at a quartier across from the school and chatted with everyone there. One young woman, Zanabou, said her teacher Garrett was having his students do an exercise on AIDS, and advised those living in Sala to talk to me for more health info. She spoke fair English, as she is taking that class from Garrett. She wrote down her question so I could talk with Garrett next time I saw him to get the details. Eventually I loaned her some written materials in French that she could use in her assignment.

At the CSPS was Gilbert working with a handful of people. Not too much action, plus it was very hot. Every day this month has reached 100 degrees, and luckily cools off at night. I must be getting acclimated as last October when I arrived in BF that temp bothered me. Not so much now. I went home and began studying my “Etude de Mileau”, but it is hard to concentrate in the heat. I sat outside with Minata under the hangar, and hand stitched my pintard valances for the two windows in my big room.


On Sunday I got ready early and pedaled 3 K to the church, where Jean Baptiste led the service (no priest again). Songs and prayers, but no Mass. On the way home I decided to find the cabaret so I could return bottles, but I was not in the right section of Thyou. As I wandered around the area, suddenly a woman came by and said Marie and Besile are over here, as she led me to their home. Sure enough there she was along with four of their children, her mother, and numerous neighbor kids. Marie was one of the first friends I had made at church, and obviously she shared that info with her friends and neighbors. Marie offered me water and as I took a couple photos, all the children wanted in them too. It was great fun!

Soon I left there and as I passed the community center in Thyou, I could hear what sounded like a revival going on. My curiosity took me inside, where the youth were dancing. The young boys were on the stage moving rhythmically to the boom box music. The many teen girls were stage right and also dancing to the sounds. I managed to get a good picture of the boys, but when I tried for the girls, kids swarmed in front of my camera. (See photos.) I so enjoyed seeing the good fun the youth were engaged in.

Late in the afternoon after sitting outside with the women of my compound, Abdoulaye and I walked around inside the area of the quartiers and corrected my map. There are about two dozen living units therein and I listed the inhabitants so I can get the names and faces linked in my mind. Then we listened to a playoff game on the radio, until I got a call from Angie. I talked with Lindsay about her recent birthday. It is so good to talk to family at home. This generation of PCVs have it so good in respect to modern communication, cell phone and email.

11-02-08

When I arrived at CSPS the major was training a nurse, named Philippe, He is a new addition allocated due to the work volume. I was happy to hear some pretty good English from him, which he said he learned in school. He is a big, well built man with a gentle nature. Gilbert was doing IV and injections and consulting as well.

Today I wanted to get to the marche' early as the major told me that's when there is still fruit. I also had better directions to find the cabaret, so in fact I did that first. Marie and Besile found me at the marche', and also my friend Atia from Zoa tried to take me away for dolo, but that had to wait. We got cooked pork for sandwiches and were sitting there eating in the dolo hangar, when a blind man named Victor began singing and playing his stringed instrument. (See photo.)

I found two small canaries with chips which I got for a good price, and want to plant flowers in for my porch. My neighbor children got wound up playing outside after dark, as all children everywhere do. It was too hot to be inside. I took a brief walk on the moonlit path by my house and then sat on the wall encasing the compost bin. Abdoulaye and I visited until Georges rode up on his bike just back from KDG and apologized for no lesson today. He said his baby is sick with pneumonia and is on two antibiotics, so Georges said he will return to KDG on Saturday. He said he visited his brother Maxime, at the seminaire in KDG. He is working on formation services for another town nearby.

When I went to the clinic the next morning, Gansonre was there with the new nurse looking on, so was Gilbert. I sat in the waiting room playing with a baby, as two other babies were on IVs. (See photo) I watched as the new nurse changed a dressing on a man with bad leg and arm scrapes from a moto accident. These kind of injuries are all too often in Burkina Faso, as moto is the leading vehicle after bicycles here. I visited the construction workers, who are building the major's new house by the CSPS. Then I went home to get two magazines to share with them about Sports and cities in America. The workers will return to Ouaga when their job is done, but everyone has questions about America. Luckily a friend sent me magazines I could loan them.

I texted Bintou in Bobo, a green large city in southern BF, where she is teaching businessmen French. She extended greetings to Minata, the major and Gansonre and me here in Sala. Often people ask after her.

13-02-08 PCV Robert visits from 90K south..

I met Rob getting off the taxi brousse at Sala's boutique, and after we got his flat bike tire repaired, we walked over to the CSPS, and met all the staff. We talked a long time to the new nurse about how poor Burkina Faso is and what our work here will be. He seemed intrigued at our choice to be here.

Before lunch we took a bike ride around the barrage, where I showed off Minata's garden along with the others. When we got back to my place Garrett and Georges met us there for a lunch of salad and grilled cheese sandwiches. We all chatted quite awhile until it was time for my language lesson. While we were busy, Garrett showed Rob where to catch the taxi brousse to Ouaga tomorrow morning in Thyou.

In the late afternoon we started Uno and when Abdoulaye got home from school, I had him take my hand, while I fixed dinner. (See photo.) We had stir fry over rice. Garrett came back, bringing home made warm brownies with no leavening. He recently put together a Dutch Oven. Dessert is a big treat here and they were gone in no time. The Uno game went on until 9pm when I called it. It was delightful to hear Rob and Garrett and Georges and Abdoulaye joke in French as they played Uno, they enjoyed each other's company so. Rob offered that I need to keep learning French so I can talk to my peers. I can get someone local to talk Moore to the villagers but in order to leave things sustaining themselves, I need to organize not do the work.

14-02-08

In the morning I made breakfast while Rob bathed. He liked bathing inside with no wind/cold.. I am lucky to have an indoor douche. He tied all his stuff on his bike to go catch the transport in Thyou.. Rob and I tried to take a picture of the pintards flying enmasse out of the big tree as dawn came, but the time lapse wouldn't allow for good pictures. We ate p&j sandwiches before Rob left.

When I arrived at the maternite' women and infants were assembled. We hung the scales in the doorway suspended from a hook. We weighed six babies then Pierette showed me how to fill in the main book register. While she saw a few women for pregnancy visits, I continued weighing babies and recording that information. I loved it. We finished around 11am and I came home to get ready for market. In this culture everyone goes to market.

First I went to the barbecue place to buy pork for sandwiches, but then Marie and Besile invited me over under a tree near the north end of the market, as a bunch of her family was gathered there. I met her petite soeur (sister), and her sons, who were selling fresh fish they caught. Then Basile rode by, and I went to greet him. Soon we met his father and a brother too. After we socialized over a dolo or two, we headed to the marche' for fresh veggies, bread and coconut. We found a place to sit and make the pork sandwiches, and Georges introduced me to his father and sister who came by. Marie went searching for bananas for me. Marie and Basile want very much to play Uno again, so we made plans when I return from Ouaga to do that.

After I went back home, and finished my language lesson, my new teen friends, whom Garrett teaches, came by, Zanabou and Salinata. They visited awhile and I gave them some written material on AIDS for a paper they had to turn in. My lantern ran out of wick, so I sent the neighbor kid to the local boutique and they had a replacement wick. He also came home with my jacket---I couldn't believe it. The taxi brousse chauffeur left it at the boutique for me. We fried up the fresh fish for dinner along with a salad and French bread. It was good eating!

15-02-08

We had French lesson early today because of Lent I went to maternite' and told the accoucheuse Pierette how much I enjoyed weighing babies and she was glad. She showed me the list of training sessions the PCV did last year with the young mothers at maternite'. It included things like “making enriched porridge, prevention of malaria, benefits of vaccination, prevention of diarrhea, and the advantages of having an attended delivery”.

While at clinic I checked in with the major on my request to attend the mosque with him today, to which he had agreed. We planned to meet there before the noon service. Attired in a skirt, long sleeved shirt and head wrap, I arrived on time at the Thyou mosque and was promptly greeted by Lizetta, a neighbor from my compound. Then I spotted the major El Hadj all decked out in a beautiful boubou and his red and white checkered scarf. After we greeted, the major indicated that the women pray in the building directly behind the mosque. Lizetta led the way, we removed our sandals, and walked into the room of prayer rugs and praying women. They made room for me in the front row. Lizetta added a veil to my head wrap.

She also modeled what posture I should take as the chanting and praying was microphoned in from the main building. I was to raise my hands to my face at times, then down and out of sight. We also adopted positions of kneeling, standing and bowing. She removed my glasses and I was to look down at that time. At the end of the service we greeted people with “Wendga Weise” as we departed. The major came over and asked if I wanted to meet the high priest. I did meet a group of men all with the red and white head scarves, the sign they have been to Mecca. The major asked about my Koran, which I had not brought along. (See picture of the group.)

I took a couple hours in the afternoon for lunch and journaling, then I pedaled to my church and although I was very early for stations of the cross, I was in the company of many other women. The catechist began the service. His wife, Marie along with Georges led the singing. The procession with stops and kneeling along the path lasted over an hour. The Burkinabe's devotion to their faith and rituals is quite moving across all the religions.

When I returned home near dusk, Gerard delivered my bookcase, which I was happy with. It is nice to get my books out of boxes and more accessible.

Vaccination Week

16-02-08 I pedaled the 15 K to Zao, getting there by 9am. I went to the school and left some things, but there was no school today so I did not talk to anyone. The major arrived at Zao shortly after that, and opened the little square CSPS building. The women started coming with their infants. We had two helpers, Beli ASC and another person Patrice, AA (Aucien Agent de Zoa). My friend Atia is in Sabou this weekend, so I did not connect with her in village. The pregnant women and the infants received their appropriate vaccinations and by noon we had seen the majority of those coming.

At noon the major took me over to the hangar of Bertine for benga and mui avec pima (beans and rice with hot pepper). I had eaten here before with my friend Atia, so was glad to see Bertine again. I took pictures of her plus others. (See photos) Then Patrice took me to a dolo place and we socialized with the villagers who were there.

In the afternoon as I rode back to Sala I took pictures of the stacks of wood alongside the road. The big camion trucks come at night and pick up the wood, load it well over the sides of the truck bed, tie it down and drive rapidly back towards the capitol. Sometimes there is a second trailer attached. Reminds me of the semis at home trucking down the freeways at night.

When I reached home, it was late afternoon and the children were out playing, so I passed out lollipops, to them and their mothers who came out for a treat too. I read for awhile and finished my book, “The Kite Runner” and since I had cried through a lot of it, especially the ending, I was a basket case! I had prepared vegetables for dinner and Lizetta came by and requested a donation of food. She was taking it all to CSPS for families there. When the women saw the stir fry veggies, they wanted to eat it themselves, but I asked that they take it to the families of the sick at the clinic.

I took my bucket bath before retiring. I love the coolness of the bucket bath. It is a reprieve from the heat. It is so hot, and doesn't cool down until after 2am most nights.

17-02-08

This morning I left home at 8:30 for Dayolo and my odometer started working. I was listening to my MP3 player music, when halfway there the nurse, Gansonre and trainee, Kassoum passed me on their way to vaccinations. I kept going past Dana onto Dayolo and stopped short of the right village. There was a big group of people there who came to meet me.

I soon discovered my mistake and went on past the dike and over a small bridge to the correct place under a hangar in the center of the market place at Dayolo. A brother of one of the helpers from last month, Adama was there to assist. Gansonre was supervising the nurse trainee, Kassoum giving shots to children. One mother of twins was instructed by Gansonre to take her boy twin to the CREN in Sabou because he is malnourished. I walked over to her and asked if she was going directly to Sabou and she made a gesture of eating. I gave her 100 francs. We will see if that helped get them there. After the people who wanted immunizations were treated, it was near 11am.

We headed back towards Dana, where the two ASC Babou and Bitiou were there helping out. Bitiou was passing out pills to children and women. He had a measuring height stick, color coded and gave the designated number of pills the color coding indicated. We worked there a couple hours with the villagers receiving vaccinations and medicines until the crowd was treated. Then Babou took me across the road to the restaurant for a lunch of meat in broth. After hanging out at the marche' awhile in Dana, I headed back home to Sala 10K and an hour away. It was so hot, I napped as soon as I could. My friend Zanabou didn't show up for our discussion on her homework AIDS assignment. But soon another young person, Alassane, who studies in Koudougou came by to visit. He speaks English and wants to practice with me. He also wants to learn the internet, so we made a plan for the next time I am in KDG to call him when I go to the cybercafe'.

In the evening as Minata came home from her garden at the barrage, she saw an accident on the road between a motobike and a donkey cart. A young person was injured and taken to CSPS. Minata had blood on her hands from helping out.

18-02-08

I got ready for the ride to Salo, 8K away and the path commenced behind the CSPS buildings. It is a gradual ascent for 5-6K, then somewhat flat the last 2K. A woman also on a bike was going my way and I found her to be very helpful to my staying on the correct route. When I arrived at Salo I went through the marche' until on the other side I found the big tree, under which the vaccinations are done. Three men were passing out pills to the population just like in Dana yesterday, and using the same measuring devise. The pills are for paludisme/elephantiasis, a disease which causes enlarged body parts.

The nurse Gilbert and trainee Alexis were getting things ready for vaccinations when Gilbert mentioned Georges coming back home. I said he is in KDG and may return today. He then said that Georges baby died in KDG on the weekend, and that both his wife and baby had respiratory illness, and the baby didn't make it. My heart sank and I teared up. Health in BF is often on a thin line between life and death.

I saw several young mothers I had met at the CSPS, one with a very ill (pneumonia) baby, who was here for immunizations and her infant was doing very well now. Her baby was born in September, the month my newest grandchild Cash came. That contrasted with Georges baby reminded me of the fragility of life for the very young.

Many of the older women taking the pills being passed out, were having trouble swallowing them outright, so I offered them my water. Kids were gagging on them too, so we passed out all the water I had and sent someone to the well for more.

Before school let out at noon, I went to visit there and Daniel, the fourth level teacher, came out to greet me. He was happy with the alphabet and numbers to hang up in his room, and his students greeted me warmly. Soon the headmaster Ky came along and he too enjoyed the gift, as did the two women teachers. I didn't have any more to pass out to the two lower classes, but Daniel insisted that I say hi to the classes at the very least. The first graders had already adjourned, but they were lingering and watching my activity. When they saw me going towards their classroom, they all ran back inside so I would visit them. They were adorable. I asked them “Were you chanting?” earlier. And they sang me a song. I promised to return with more things, pencils, crayons, paper, etc. Daniel took me to his class and they also sang me a song, which was on the board in French so I could follow along.

When I got back to the vaccination site, Gilbert, Alexis and I walked to the marche' and found the woman who makes rice and vegetables. Gilbert also got some meat, which looked like chicken, but was rabbit. We all tried some and it was tasty. After socializing with some of the locals at the marche' a woman came over and indicated I needed to retrieve my bike from under the tree where we were all morning, as they were finished there. I got on my bike and rode home by myself, crying all the way.

When I got home Gerard was there doing a few carpentry things for me along with Minata, Lizetta and another friend of theirs. They asked what was wrong and I said Georges baby died at KDG on the weekend and it is so unfair. Minata hugged me and led me to my bedroom and said “No, don't cry.” Gerard said “When babies are sick with malady here, it is best they are with God.” They all said that is life and move on. I am learning another cultural difference and this one is difficult for me.

Late in the afternoon I was reading French primer with two of my neighbor girls, when my language teacher arrived for our lesson. I offered condolences and after the girls left, I listened to Georges describe his son, Jean Marc, last day. Their baby had an injection/transfusion at the hospital to continue treating his respiratory illness. And at home in the early morning hours the baby quit breathing. They tried to reach Georges by phone, but he was already en route to KDG to visit them. He said that upon his arrival they interred the baby at the cemetery. He said it took a lot of courage to view their son's body before his burial. He finished with “Jesus has said “whoever wants to follow me, will carry his cross.” He drew a sketch of the tombstone he's having made, a heart with the inscription and a cross behind it. Their faith supports them during this difficult time.

My neighbors came to offer condolences before Georges left.

19-02-08

Today we traveled to Bolo for vaccinations. I asked the new RN if I could follow him there. I pedaled to the barrage where the trail forks toward Bolo and waited. The motos came by and I saw the direction they went plus I had my compass, so I followed and in an hour I was there too. I also asked along the way to make sure I was on the right path.

The CSPS staff was set up at the far side of the marche' and two local helpers were passing out the pills for elephantiasis to the population. I greeted many people and took some pictures, one of the woman who was preparing lunch of spaghetti and lapine (rabbit). After eating lunch and chatting with some of the young men at the marche', I headed home. Along the way I photographed some million year old rock formations with trees growing out of them in their crevasses.

I started packing while there was still daylight for my trip to Ouaga the next morning. When it was my lesson time, I studied future tense verbs from the French textbook. Georges was an hour overdue, and apologized, but had company all day giving condolences My house was hot so we sat on the porch and reviewed our last dialogue in both French and Moore', corrected sentences, and I read from the primer. We visited a while. He texted his seminarian brother Maxime who is coming Wednesday to be with Georges and his two girls. Georges is close to his younger brother and so proud he is becoming a priest.

The next morning I left on a taxi brousse at 7:30am for Ouaga and sat with Madame Kiemde and her daughter, Jedidiah, age 2, who was afraid of me. Spearmint gum changed her mind. She fell asleep on her mother's lap on the way to the capitol. Ms Kiemde and I made plans to visit in Thyou in the near future. We were practicing my French on the way.

It was good to see my friends at the Transit House when I got there via a taxi cab. Stephanie A, Natalie, Matt, Courtney, Josh and Kevin and Helen were also there. I went to the PC bureau to pay Jean Luc for the batteries he sent to village for me, but he wouldn't hear of it. We talked about the artisans at the end of Charles de Gaulle Blvd., because I want to visit the place where BF holds the International Art Festival every two years in Oct. About that time Lorraine called for the first time from America, and I went outside to chat with her until her card ran out. That hour whizzed by. She has a wonderful ear for listening and I told her about my teacher's baby dying. She had predicted before I came, that some things would make my heart heavy.

Peace Corps had put us on Alert today because of civil unrest in two other major cities. The PCVs who were invited to be a part of the Diversity Conference therefore gathered at the bureau for a dinner catered in rather than eating out. When we met with Andrea, from Senegal, who is the West African Regional Specialist for PC, she went over the plan for tomorrow and how we would be used in a “fishbowl” exercise. Basically we six sitting in a circle would have a discussion about our beginning PC experience and the management attending the diversity training would watch the exercise from the outer circumference.

Back at the Transit House I chatted awhile with Stephanie and Natalie about life in village the last two months. Natalie sketched Stephanie as we talked. It's amazing to see an art major in action capturing the personality of her subject in awesome detail in less than half an hour.

02-21-08

Natalie fixed me a morning cup of coffee adorned with a cinnamon stick. Some volunteers were sitting around the 8 foot table eating cereal, which felt like America to me. Later I went around the corner to get an omelette with onions sandwich. Helen looked at the problem I'm having with my digital camera card and copied some pix from it to the internal memory in my camera. Now I should be able to get at them to put on my flash drive and onto the internet. I am so happy these “younguns” know how to do all this high tech stuff.

Mid afternoon at the Diversity session we six discussed topics ranging from religion and marriage in Burkina culture, to being American and living among Burkinabe', to being an older person (me) in the PC, to sexuality and lifestyles. Our conversation lasted an hour or so. We headed back to the transit house, where Josh prepared a huge green salad with help from others chopping veggies and making dressing. With a good bottle of wine and some French bread we were all ready to eat.

Chris called me and we chatted a long time about how things were going both here and there. I am thankful every day for my cell phone and the technology that allows me to have a regular conversation with my loved ones. It makes me glad I am here now, rather than 45 years ago when PC began. Of course letters from home are always treasured and reread numbers of times.

22-02-08

Last night we were all told that we would be going back to village today due to political unrest in the country. I arose early, wrote postcards, got a pkg ready to go with a volunteer to America. I needed to go to bureau to have a couple minor repairs on my bike, use the internet and get my mail with 3 boxes from home. What luck to get a ride home via PC car with all my stuff and 3 boxes. I stopped on my way back to transit house to purchase fruit and avocados to take to village. On the way out of town Idrissa the driver stopped so I could get eggs and liquid detergent at the boutique by the transit house. He drove me out of Ouaga and back to village. I was safely at home by noon. I settled back into my home, which had a layer of dust from the wind since I left two days ago. I visited in the afternoon with Garrett about the Stand Fast Alert the PC had us on and how we would be in village until it was lifted. That evening I played checkers and Uno with my neighbors until nearly 10, and we had such fun with it.

On Saturday the Franciscan priest, named Casmere, was saying Mass in Villa, 7K away from Thyou in a small chapel there. Casmere is Polish descent, comes from Italy and lives with the group of Franciscan missionaries at St. Luc's Parcisse in Sabou. Georges and I pedaled the slight incline to Villa to attend Mass (first one this month) as did other villagers we knew. We sat in the back of the chapel on a bench, and there were benches outside the entrance with many people on them. Fr. Casmere put his vestments on by the front altar, then the choir began the service led by a young woman. Father said the Mass in Moore'. There was a baptism of a baby at this mass. As I tried to take a picture of that, the electronics in my camera interrupted the sound system set up by the back door (and next to us). Oops! I put camera away but not before everyone turned around to see what was happening.

Towards the end of the Mass the lay minister said the priest requests a few words from the guest, to which I said “Oh my!” I asked Georges to come with me up to the microphone and translate into Moore' for the congregation. I thanked them for their attention to me, and explained I was a PC volunteer living here for two years to work with health issues. Georges said they want my name and I was able to say that in Moore', which pleased them. He told them I was working with the major and health staff at CSPS in Sala. When he finished translating that, I said one more thing: “My religion is very close to my heart and it makes me feel at home to come to Mass, in Africa as in America and I am happy about that.” They clapped and were so warm and friendly.

Everyone greets each other after mass, just as in America. I found the parents of the newly baptized baby and requested to take their picture. They were delighted so we gathered by the altar and Fr. Casmere kindly stepped into the picture too. (See photo)

There was an “Alphabetisation” class being taught under a big tree near where the dolo bar was set up. Some villagers were learning mathematics. We walked past that to a fire where they cooked a dog, who had gotten the chickens. I tasted it and it was like the brown meat of chicken. It was good actually. We found the churchmen and priest in a nearby covered area so we could say Goodbye. They asked us to join them in their meal of arachide sauce over rice, with greens of onions on the side. Afterwards the priest offered to take four of us and our bikes in his mini truck back to Thyou to the marche'. The people in the bed of the truck were ducking every time we went under a tree on the path going back. Father stopped and gave two more women a ride too. No one got brushed out of the back.

After shopping a bit at the marche' and socializing with familiar friends, Georges' father, Harry invited me over to his family compound to meet his wife and Georges older sister, Elise, and her child. A longtime neighbor of theirs came over for a visit soon after we arrived. As we visited, his mother Veronique brought out benga (beans) with sauce. Like him, Georges family is very friendly and warm to people. I took a few pictures of them both inside their house and outside. Then Angie called me and Georges took a picture of me on the phone with her. Angie said her girls teachers want their classes to write to students in Africa as pen pals. When it was time to go home, I expressed my gratitude, and his family said they were delighted to meet me and I am welcome anytime.

25-02-08

On Monday I was anxious to go to CSPS as it had been awhile. There was not much going on, only a couple people there to be seen. Gansonre was working on statistics. He showed me the chart he made for Sala and the satellite villages for 2007. The maternite' brought the curve down for the area. The women in outlying areas, esp Sune and Zoa, don't often come in for delivery and then there are complications. An example in the maternite' recovery room today was a family who's baby had died at delivery.

In the late afternoon I was listening to Moore' on my MP3 player, and working on my chart of my quartier, when my teacher came for my daily lesson. He was sweating and no wonder—it was 105 degrees out. We rehearsed the dialogue in both languages and I read from the primer and we discussed verbs. The day was a quiet one all in all.

Tuesday was much the same, except that only Philippe and the two infirmier stagieres were at CSPS to handle things, a woman and young boy on IVs, and a new baby in maternite'. I visited. them and greeted their visitors. Then I decided to go to school and give out the alphabets and numbers I had for them. The headmaster and another teacher were gone to marche', but the four remaining teachers were delighted. I promised to return with more things later. After the repose (12-3pm) began I also went to the marche', got my favorite lunch, pork and local bread for sandwich. I met Georges and his father and uncle socializing near the barbecue place. As we came out of that area, we met three white French women staying in Sabou. In chatting with them, we shared that we were visiting the CREN (Centre Rehabilitation Enfants Nutrionelle) in Sabou on Wednesday. They expressed interest in that, so we made a date to take them along.

So the next day we met early to pedal to Sabou to the CREN. I stopped first to get a receipt from the taxi brousse driver for my last trip, so I could get reimbursed. The chauffeur wasn't understanding my French, and along came one of the Sala teachers, who helped me pose the question again to him. Voila!

In about an hour my tutor and I arrived at Sabou in time to find an omelette sandwich and Nescafe'. We went looking for Bintou's brother's restaurant “Zood Neere”, where I ate with her the day I moved to Sala. As we were talking to a man there, the three French women walked out of the boutique. They were lodging at this same complex. When they joined us out front, we all five rode to the Catholic Church together. We were invited in by Fr. Jacques via Georges connections with St Luc's parish. The priest served us grenadine water. Soon Sister Mary (from France) joined us and she would guide our visit to the CREN. As we exited the parish house into the courtyard, I thought this is a beautiful setting. (See pictures.) Georges shared with Fr. Jacques, who had baptized Jean Marc, of the death of his baby.

Sr. Mary drove the rest of us over to the new laboratory and hospital under construction south of Sabou . Sr. Margaret (from New York) another young nun joined us and translated for me as Sr. Mary gave us the tour. It is a grand design. In the octagon-shaped center of the new CREN is a courtyard where they are erecting a swing set, where they want to teach the parents how to play with their children. Housing for the parents is inside the CREN itself. We toured a number of the buildings where the laboratories will be. We returned to the Catholic Church, where the existing CREN is and toured that. It was overfilled with malnourished infants and their mothers. A number of the infants were twins, who often have difficulty surviving in this land. Mothers stay with babies stay in CREN on average 30 days until babies are gaining and mothers have been trained in nutrition. We saw the examination rooms, where they weigh and measure the babies. We went to another area where a staff was giving an enriched Brouille (porridge) and soup demonstration. There were over 50 mothers and many crying babies there. They each received a container of the brouille.

With the help of my tutor, I inquired about the mother and twins from Dayolo, whom Gansonre had sent here. They brought a woman and her twins to me, but it wasn't them. I asked if there was anyone from Sala here and they said not now. There were young interns working at the CREN, who knew Marco, a PCV from a village further south from mine.

We returned to the area of our bikes and toured St. Luc's church. Several catechists were conversing near the altar. Everyone is preparing for the pilgrimage next Sunday at the edge of the barrage in Thyou. All the Franciscan priests who live at this parish house will be there. We invited the French women to it, and they in turn invited us to tour the artists' studio and school adjacent to their chambres this afternoon. The art and fabric school would intrigue my children. I ordered a bag from them.

We found Dominique's son's place for lunch. His wife serves benga and mui (beans and rice) with pima (hot spice). We visited the marche' district of Sabou and visited there awhile.

It was late afternoon when we traveled back down the road to Thyou and Sabou, our homes.

28-02-08

Today is Thursday which means baby weighing at the maternite'. I stopped by the clinic first to talk about our tour of the old and new CREN yesterday in Sabou to Gilbert, the new nurse, Philippe, and the two interns, Kassoum and Alexis, who both put effort into communicating with me. I helped weigh 4-6 babies, who were there. Several pregnant women were there for prenatal visits too. When I went into the recovery room in the maternite', there was a woman there with no baby, but lots of family. Her baby died during birth.

By midday I went home and fixed a cheese sandwich and cut up a mango for lunch, then studied a while. I walked outside to visit with some of the women in my quartier and work on my map of it. Abdoulaye helped me some. After my language lesson in the late afternoon, we all played a couple games of Uno.

29-02-08 Leap Year

I spent time getting out some of my PC training materials on both KAP and Etude de Milieu and reviewed it. I need to prepare and decide how to study the health of the communities around Sala. Our In Service Training is in two weeks and I need to bring some of that info with me then.

When I got to the CSPS today, I watched what was happening, there was a flurry of patients for over an hour. The young RN trainees were handling things. I was to have an early language lesson today, but because an older respected woman died last night in Thyou, there was a big service Georges was leading the singing for, right after “Chemin de Croix” (stations of the cross). I took my neighbor girl Zanabou to the afternoon service at our church, and she was to meet up with Minata, her grandmother, afterwards at the home of the deceased.

When we got there there were cars arriving and lots of people around. I recognized women from church and from village. One woman offered to take us into the deceased woman's home, but about that time things started happening. People filled her yard until we were hemmed in. Gerard was finishing the coffin he had been working on all day. Family gathered around and some family brought her body out. One could hear Gerard tap the nails into the lid of the coffin. Our catechist Jean Baptiste began the Catholic burial service and Georges led the singing with drumming in the background. It went on over an hour in Moore'.

When darkness set in, the procession to the cemetery occurred. Across fields and paths, Georges led the chant and the people. At the graveside there was a fluorescent light strung up and then more prayers, drumming and singing. Georges led a solo and the choir responded with the chorus. It was elegant and moving. There were many songs and hymns. After a long graveside service, all the people walked back to the decedent's home. Georges found us and offered his flashlight to guide us there.

His brother Maxime and two other priests had been at a meeting in Sabou that day and stopped to briefly visit with Georges before he and the priests had to leave by car. Zanabou and I got a drink of water before we rode home. As we turned in for the night we could hear the music of the dancing that went on all night and is typical of most funeral celebrations in village, especially important people.