African Adventure 11

“Le Vent” (wind)

The wind is welcome to cool the body and inform one about the weather changes coming. It can be quiet and uncannily calm, and then the wind rapidly converges near the earth to announce rain is imminent. And it comes, most often suddenly!

One day I was walking to the market and behind me dark clouds were gathering—the wind came and people nearby shouted, “La pluie!” (the rain) meaning take cover! I glanced over my shoulder to see the wind whipping up very fast. I stood next to a clay wall (insufficient cover), so I made a B-line for a hangar, about a block away. I asked the family who encouraged me to enter. But by then the rain was coming in horizontally. Two shopkeepers observing this activity ran to the hangar and invited me into their shop, protected on all sides. People gathered there visited and passed the time together under cover. In an hour the intense rains subsided, water running in streams on paths, roads, pooling in lower spots. Instinctively Burkinabe' know the storm is finished and commence their previous activities.

Another day I heard the wind nearby and went outside to see what was happening. The sound was a whirlwind, a spiral of dust and debris going across the field in front of my house and heading towards the chef's compound. It looked to be a 25' column that got diffused by a half dozen old trees in its path. In this area of farming one can see the effects of the wind from one side of the horizon to the other.

On a very still hot day (100 degrees) I get on my bike and as I gain speed I am reminded that the air flows around moving things in a most refreshing way. I close my eyes and make a mental note of this welcome brief relief from the heat.

After sundown, when the temperature is still high, I stand at the north edge of my veranda and leaning over to face west, I can catch the beginning of the evening breeze that cools the African land here. I thank God again for the air.

01 June 08

This Sunday we pedaled 6K west of Thyou to Mass in the small village of Goumogo. After riding uphill out of Thyou, the land levels out for a long distance. Lots of women were in the fields planting. Many people were on foot going to the petite hangar at Goumogo for the service. Following the mass, the priest blessed the vat of water, with the eucharist minister putting salt in the shape of a cross onto the water. People filled their containers with “holy water”. Then the priest and the congregation walked over to the new home of the eucharist minister and blessed the structure. The finale' was drumming and dancing to celebrate the beginning of planting season.

02 June 08

This day we biked into la brousse (the bush) 9K to Bolo to give a presentation to the people. The health liaison in village met us at the marche' and Babou said the people will come in from the fields at noon and there will be an audience for us. I spoke in French requesting the people to help determine their main health problem. My language teacher translated my words into Moore' for them. The headmaster from the elementary school came for the talk and when we divided the people into two large groups he took one and Georges and Babou took the other. Much discussion took place before the voting on the principal health problem in their village. Malaria (palu) was named the number one health concern. After the wrap up and passing out cookies and water, the liaisons got us wonderful pork to eat with pima (hot sauce). We stopped by the water pump to refill our water jugs before biking back. Then we rested at a picturesque spot near the million year old boulders and decades old trees growing in the crevices.

I researched for the causerie (talk) at Dana on Wednesday regarding “Maladie de L'eau” (sickness from bad water). I text Dr. Claude for ideas and illness information on the topic. She responded quickly and it helped me get ready. Before our conversation ended she let me know that following my letter of interest I will be the health volunteer going to the Moringa Tree Conference in OHG mid-June. I am happy.

04 June 08

We prepared for our presentation in Dana, stopped by the clinic and chatted with the major and head nurse about Maladie de L'eau and they agreed it was a good idea to link it to hygiene, a talk I have given before. An hour later Garrett, Georges and I arrived in Dana, where we visited the school first. The headmaster Maiga Ousseine and two teachers sat on the veranda with us as all the students looked on. I had a big bag of school supplies sent to me by Jan Myers and Dafna Margalit. The director said they would give them out as prizes at the end of the school year July 10. See pictures. They brought a crippled boy to us and asked if I would inquire about resources for him in the capitol next time I go there. Seni is 9 years old and has been handicapped since birth below his right knee. He can't walk on that leg, so he hops on one foot. The school was pleased with our visit and invited us back anytime.

When we got to the marche' in Dana and met with the health liaisons, Babou and Bitiou, they said they did not have enough notice to inform the people in time for the presentation. And the villagers are in the fields planting. So we agreed to come back in 9 days.

The next day was baby weighing and I helped the nurse Gansonre with this. He does a cursory health check on the babies between the weighing and vaccinations. He checked one baby who had air in the stomach from latching onto the nipple insufficiently. He asked me to help communicate with the mother about this issue, so I got out my La Leche book, copied the pictures showing how to stimulate the baby's mouth to open wide, put the nipple way into the mouth and position the baby close to the mother. This mom was grateful and took the pictures home with her.

Later I made a chart to explain to the COGES my activities for the last two months in village, esp. the presentations with the villages on health issues and what they said were their main problems, and the follow up talks that have happened and are planned to.

07 June 08

We got the taxi brousse to Nabadago to visit Georges’ sister Martine and husband Marcel and family. We will spend the day at the big marche' there too. It is on the main route to Ouaga, and a very busy place. We walked a distance from the town to their home and visited the family there. We saw the original homestead of the Kiemtore' family. The land here is flat, very green and with the blue sky, it is pleasant as far as the eye can see. We walked through several fields planted in millet and arachide and coming up nicely. Marcel was using his slingshot (lancefier) to scare goats out of the fields. Martine makes local beer for the marche' and had already taker her bidon there for the day. When she returned we all walked to the marche', strolled around, and after several hours we were famished. We found pork for sandwiches and the four of us picked a quiet place to eat them. In the late afternoon we caught the transport back home to Thyou. It was a fun day.

Sunday afternoon I rode to Thyou to charge my phone at the station, and chatted with the guy there, when Madame Kiemti came over to say hi. She invited me to her home and heated up to’ and sauce with fish in it. She cut up a large mango for dessert. Her daughters, Jedidiah and Alie were there engrossed in playing with their new puppy. We looked at the family photo album and discussed friends they have made in other countries, some of the French friends were in the album. Ms. Kiemti's husband runs the local Sodigaz store, selling propane. She sent me home with a dozen pintard eggs.

This week I spoke to the major and Ouedraogo Karim, my counterpart about the Moringa Conference in OHG mid-June and it is all set, and quite exciting to be connecting with an inspired group from five countries in West Africa as we try and tackle the malnutrition problem this way.

10 June 08

I had to go to the capitol for the dentist, Pablo Rojas, to set my new crown in place the next day. It was made in France and fit perfectly. They sent me home with antibiotics and care products.

I had a fun time at the Artisan's Village which houses many, many shops with handcrafted items by the local artists here in Ouaga. I could spend my whole living allowance on gifts and nice things to buy. Lucky I don't live in the capitol. I got boxes together for Lexi and Jodi who both had birthdays recently. Andrea will mail them when she goes to America next week.

While in town and next door to the PCB I visited Handicapped International Agency, who gave me a referral for the crippled boy from Dana, so I can take that info back to them. Apparently there won't be any fees for the service because it is provided by a government service.

The evening of June 11 twenty of us celebrated Keisha's birthday with her. We met at Vita's for dinner and Jimmy's for dancing. Keisha had made a birthday hat to wear, sort of a crown. It set the tone. Everyone had a good time. The next day I returned to village, happy with results of my trip to Ouaga.

13 June 08

We rode to Dana school with the resource info for the little boy Seni from “Centre D'appareillge Orthopeolique” de Burkina. They seemed happy with that. We got to the market place mid-morning and waited until midday for a crowd to gather for the causerie regarding Maladie de L'eau. I gave info in French, Georges translated into Moore' and Babou translated into Garoussi for the people. There was much discussion around the hygiene poster I had made regarding the issue of breastfeeding only, for one year, and the women saying they are pregnant by the time the baby is less than 6 months old. There's definitely room for a family planning talk here. The hand washing demo was also of interest to the villagers. I demonstrated it, then a woman volunteered to do it and finally a child of maybe 8 years and everyone had a chuckle with us. They seemed pleased with the presentation.
Late that day we were able to get to the marche' in Thyou before it closed and buy my vegetables.

On Saturday I wanted to clean my bedroom thoroughly because there had been mice in there. I gave it a spring cleaning. I was also leaving Sunday for OHG and the Moringa Conference for most of the week. I spent the better part of the day getting my house and packing in order. The major is driving Karim and I to Sabou in the morning to catch the bus to OHG. That is a relief because normally transportation on Sunday is minimal in village.


“L'eclair” (lightning)

The horizon is visible full circle here in the Africa village, no tall trees or buildings block the view. I look across the horizon in the distance above the canopied trees and notice lightning pulsating behind them, like a glorious climax to a Broadway musical. The entire breadth of the scene, maybe 180 degrees to 360 is spectacularly bright as it lights up the background at once.

Then the rains commence, a huge deluge but after an hour, a steady more gentle downpour. The symphony of lightning on the edges adds an excitement to every storm. My eye is drawn to the sky overhead where a jagged lightning bolt rips, followed in seconds by the roar of thunder. The extreme brightness of the lightning confuses my mind with daylight during this night storm.

Like headlights coming at you over a hill, sometimes the lightning courses across the sky horizontally in giant fingers extending their reach to the far corners. Spots of lightning silhouette the African grain huts in the foreground, as well as the grand old tees in the background.

The thunder turns to rumbles as the storm moves away and the wind inevitably pushes the clouds, thus the humidity escapes for now. And the cycle continues...

Continued

15 June 08

I found Salam in his quartier and explained what the major recommended for his eye problem, which is to go to KDG to the eye clinic at the hospital for antibiotic. He seemed to know that already. He offered us dolo and we met visitors, one of them his daughter. They were sitting near the place of sacrifice (chicken). I was later advised to stay a respectful distance from the sacrifice, which the men handle.

On Sunday the major drove Karim and I the 15K to Sabou where we caught the Staff bus at 10:30 and were in OUA within an hour. Rapid! As we hailed a cab, Babette, an experienced volunteer from the east coast came over and said she has a cab going to the transit house and would we like to join her. That was great!

We hung out a couple hours there until Doug Teschner, the PC country director for Burkina Faso came for us. Also traveling to OHG were his wife, Marty and the GEED director, Zallia. We had a good visit en route. Mr. Teschner was scheduled to greet the new stagierres who were in turn meeting their host families that day. The director asked me to say a few words to the new prospective volunteers. I told them that eight months ago I was doing what they are doing today, and the link to BF culture is smoothed so much by the host families for we Americans. I shared with them that my host family, whom I came to love, will arrive shortly to visit me and I am excited.

I talked about JFK being my inspiration some 40 plus years ago. I talked about our families back home supporting us, in my case it is my children. In their case it is their parents. I said “By being here, you are already giving to the people of Burkina Faso. It will only get better.”

That week Karim and I with the BF group spent three intense days with volunteers and counterparts from four other countries, Benin, Ghana, Niger and Togo. We learned that many things are going on in their countries with Moringa, as they have been involved with their projects up to ten years now and BF is really just getting started. The workshop was conducted in both French and English. There was a lot of energy and excitement about the value of Moringa tree for Africa. We all believe the vitamins, minerals, and nutrients in its leaves, roots and trunk can change malnutrition in the world. Our hope is to develop a Moringa manual for volunteers and counterparts to use in country. Additionally we hope to come up with the ideal training model along with ideas for community involvement to aid all those people interested in Moringa development in West Africa. Niger made Moringa recipes that we all tasted on the last day. One countryman sold seeds, so we could get started back in village.

I had a chance to visit my host family, Amade' and Orokia during this conference, as well as two of the chidren, Fatimata and Ramata. The next day I was excited that Azita and Amade' were in town on the moto when I walked back to ECLA, so I got to see her too. The girls will come for a visit to Sala after they finish their BAC test later this month.

Back in village, Karim and I debriefed with the major regarding the Moringa Conference and discussed our hopes for a project in Sala. We have a list of things to get in KDG for the project. We also met with the village chief and the forestry director, Budha Mohammed to discuss our ideas amd information. We will look in the marche' Sunday in Thyou and start pricing items we need.

22 June 08 Sunday

The hangar at church was packed for the mass today. They nearly ran out of hosts at communion. Georges led the choral group and they had a practice session afterwards for the anniversary of Jean Baptiste which will be Tuesday morning. I was personally invited to come.

A bunch of us went to the marche' in Thyou. I shopped for vegetables and fruits, then took my l'ordination 2008 material to the tailor for a dress to be made. I met with Karim to look at the things we may need for the Moringa project, and then we ate sandwiches at the market. Later in the afternoon I received a call from Mdm Kiemde' who was at my house for a visit, so I scurried home. I served tea and teriyaki beef jerky to Mdm Kiemde' and Veronica, the teacher from Thyou who were both there. Veronica said there is a Moringa tree in the schoolyard, which I will visit tomorrow.

The next day we found the tree, which was bare at the moment. But we discovered that Ouedraogo Pascaline has a large fenced compound with lots of Moringa trees of various ages. She is willing to give us leaves and seedpods. She also shared a bucket of mangoes with us.

That evening the sky clouded up and soon lightning burst out overhead. It was a fantastic show!

24 June 08

There were two priests to say mass for Jean Baptiste's anniversary. The choral group did an outstanding job under Georges direction and he sang a solo, all a tribute to Jean Baptiste. After the service I was led over to the hangar where the dignitaries were being served a meal. Meanwhile the drumming and dancing began in the area behind the church hangar. It was a fun time for all.

In the late afternoon the causerie planned for my quartiers got cancelled when the chef came and said the people are still in the fields. Re-scheduling has been a regular visitor to my work lately. It rained all the next day.

26 June 08

I went to the maternite' for baby weighing this morning. I got to do one baby with Philippe, RN, who told me that twins were born overnight to a couple from Bolo. I visited them and gave them a baby quilt and showed the mother Ali the LLL book pictures on positions for holding twins for nursing. I managed to take a photo.

After my language lesson that day, two headmasters arrived at my house, one from Zao and the other from Salou. Kuba Bonaybi brought the letters from his school's students, and I gave both men supplies for their respective schools. Ky Simplice wants reading books for his school. I can send the letters after translating them into English, when I go to KDG next week.

On Friday I rode down to the barrage in Sala and watched two boys using nets they circled and threw into the water. The barrage is filling up again. See photo. The rains are also bringing out red velvet bugs that are scattered around the ground.

On Saturday I checked in with the tailor about my dress she is making. It is not finished, so I will come back another day before we go to KDG. Bazile and his wife were slated to come to my house.
to play Uno this day, but there is a big funeral in Thyou and they will reschedule.

29 June 08 Sunday

I was getting ready for church when Kotim carrying her new baby girl arrived for a visit. Minata had told her I had a gift for her, the "Wild Roses" quilt that Sally made. When I discoveed that this baby was Kotim's ninth child, I shared with her that the quilter, Sally also has nine children. Kotim was radiant and she looked in good health after three days having given birth. This was meant to be. She stayed for coffee and photos.

I pedaled to the mass celebrating the feast of St. Irene' the patron of our church in Thyou. George led the choral group and said the readings plus talked after mass, as did others about the new church under construction. After mass we went to the marche', then to the home of an older man, Irene', whose family had a feast for his anniversary. I had danced with Awa his femme at the feast for Jean Baptiste. I like her a lot, as she reminds me of my mother, in her zest for life. I took a picture of the couple too and the muscians preparing for the dance.

George went home to check on his pintards, who were getting out somehow. We didn't stay at the birthday celebration long.

We went home to prepare our summary of the Moringa Conference to present at the COGES meeting tomorrow. Karim was there waiting and we all worked a couple hours on it. The guys want me to make Kopto (Moringa recipe) for the meeting tomorrow.

30 June 08

We went to Pascaline's house to harvest enough Moringa leaves to make Kopto in the afternoon. She had the Kiim tree, used for insect control. The meeting began when a quorum was there, plus Philippe. Karim said his part in Moore', I said my part in French with George translating it into Moore'. I also gave them a chart of my activities over the last month. We ate the Kopto until it was all gone. It was a big hit!

Cultivateur (farmer)

Burkina Faso is principally a farming country. In May the people start preparing the fields. Early in the mornings (6am) the villagers leave with a charret (wagon) full of manure and compost, dabas (diggers), rakes, water jugs, and supplies for the day. Wood and debris are removed from the fields and the work of turning the soil by hand begins.

In June (start of the rainy season) planting begins. Most farmers use a wide three tine rake to mark the rows to seed. Then everyone plants graine (seeds). A chop at the row with the daba (hoe) lifts enough soil for one to deposit a few seeds, i.e. 6 millet and 1 haricot (bean), or a couple arachide (peanuts) or a few gumbo (okra), maise (corn) and petit mill (rouge). Fields of rice are planted wherever there will be standing water.

Africans are bent over from the waist all day in the fields. Their hands toughen with callouses. They are barefoot. They work in family fields in family groups and sometimes in long lines, people working a field together to aid one another. This activity is also a social occasion, exhibited by voices calling out across the way to the next field. They laugh together, sing together and eat together in the fields. The villagers bring their food for a picnic and a small jug of local dolo for the adults at breaks, water for the children.

Every age works together day in and day out. I have heard no complaints. When I ask they respond "If you want to eat in the dry season (winter), you work the fields in the wet season (summer)." Because here in Burkina Faso there are only two seasons!