African Adventure 6

12-26-07 The Day I go to my Village, Sala!

After assuring my packing was done, I went to the Peace Corps Bureau and there in the lobby was Bintou smiling and chatting with Pierre, another language teacher. Idrissa, a PC transporter told me he was set to drive Bintou, me and my stuff, whenever I was ready. After a couple errands, drawing francs from la Poste, getting two royal blue plastic chairs from the corner boutique, and retrieving the last of my things from the Transit House, we were on our way south. The SUV was crammed, ie my foam mattress, my bike, and all the baggage, lipico and small table. I mentioned my propane tank before we were very far down the road, which resulted in stops in three places to complete the purchase. Turns out you have to have a used tank to trade in, when you want to buy one full of gas. Also I needed the connectors, so I could hook it all up to my gas stove top. I was happy to know I would be cooking soon.

We drove two hours south of the capitol to Sabou and stopped at a restaurant, “Zood Neere”, of a friend of Bintou's for a meal of spaghetti, barbecued chicken, and French bread with drinks. He wouldn't accept payment for the meal. Bintou referred to him as her brother, Lassane', because he lived with her family part of his youth. He was now a successful businessman, and had started several schools for educating local youth, improving lives where he could. Nearby were some interesting monkeys tied under trees. (See pictures.)

At Sala, we met the major's son, Zachariah, who showed us the path to Minata's house, my host land lady. Minata has 3 grown children, and 2 children at home, plus some grandchildren staying. She was very welcoming and happy to meet us. The infirmier (RN) Gansonre joined us presently, meanwhile many children were gathered out front, watching the unfolding activity. Everyone helped unload the SUV. My cute little place had a twin metal bed frame, and that was it! But for that I was thankful. Zachariah and Gansonre set about skinning 4 poles to make the bedposts latched on with rubber straps for the mosquito net. Then they put my tank and gas stove together. Voila!

My half of the duplex stucco house has a large room with a corner enclosed douche (shower) and a small adjoining room that was somewhat cooler, so I requested that the bed go in there under the window. The big room has three windows on the outside walls, so that a breeze comes through. The front porch/patio is cement and has a waist high wall surrounding it. (See picture.) We sat there afterwards talking to Abdulaye, Minata's 13 year old son, who speaks French, and is learning English from the PCV Garrett, in his school. He showed me to the boutique in Sala, and after Bintou borrowed a lantern from Minata, we played Crazy 8's until bedtime.

The next morning we texted Gansonre, who called back, saying he and the major (the head of the health clinic) were coming over in an hour. I showered and was showing Bintou my curtain material when we heard the car arrive. I ran into the bedroom to finish combing my hair. The major and RN had entered and Minata brought more chairs, soon we were meeting. Other visitors came by. The major says he likes either name, El Hadj (meaning he's been to Mecca). He sent someone over to see if we could meet the chief of the village, Ouedraogo, Adama. We all four walked across the field to some trees near the chef's compound, where benches were lined up for us. We waited a bit for him. I learned that he had accepted his position as cultural leader and chef, after his father died. When the chef (naaba) came he welcomed me and I recited my prepared statement to him. I was grateful that JZ had suggested I prepare it for meeting the chef. The chef assured me he was ready to aid me in any way possible. People came by to greet us.

In the afternoon the major drove Bintou and I to the next village Thyou, 2K away to their boutique and we were able to get many staples, foods and other items for setting up my home. The shopkeeper, Adama, was helpful as we made our purchases.(See picture.)

After I inquired about the location of the Catholic church, the major drove us to a huge hangar in a field, next to a place where the foundation for a new church had been poured. A Mass had just begun at that time and a woman came forward welcoming us to join as she led me to the front benches. Bintou and the major sat in the back area through the rest of the Mass. The priest greeted me warmly, as did some of the other parishioners. An older gentleman approached graciously as the major came and greeted him and the priest. Later Bintou remarked how much she respected the major for waiting while mass was on. She said that showed a respect and tolerance for other religions.

12-28-07

On Friday after we got ready for the day, we called about a ride to the Thyou marche' (market) and the major sent his son, Zachi' to drive us. He dropped us off for an hour to wander around the huge marche'. One hour because the major takes elder men to the mosque on Fridays by noon. I loaded up on plastics, a bucket, bowls, cups, and plates etc. We also found some vegetables. When we returned home, I took a nap while Bintou made us Riz Gras. A neighbor boy went to the local garden after tomatoes for us. I rode to the Sala boutique for tomato sauce. There I spoke to Kadre' (he was next door at the restaurant) about needing a tutor. After my nap we ate delicious Riz Gras. I studied several French lessons while Bintou napped. Then Bintou helped me correct my lesson.

We had planned that in the later afternoon Minata would show us to the garden. She was already there working, so Abdoulaye led me there. He and I rode our bikes, while Bintou and his friend walked. We went far on a rough path when we came to the barrage, a sort of lake. We walked past rows of tomatoes and squash before coming to where a man was working. After exchanging greetings, he showed me egg plants, and I bought 6 and then he gave me 6 more. On the return trip we saw two huge camion (trucks) pass by, loaded with wood poles headed for Ouaga for cooking fires.

I passed out candy (bonbons) to the children and mothers in the courtyard. They numbered in the dozens. In the evening we played cards, and Bintou showed me a game called “Witchcraft”. Pretty soon there was a knock at the door and there was Gansonre and Simpore', the education inspector to talk to me about my need for a tutor. It was a long conversation. He offered to find one who can attend meetings with me and tutor in conversation and pronunciation daily, etc. We made plans for visiting the CSPS clinic in the morning to meet everyone. I feel somewhat frustrated at the communication gap, and I'm sure the RN is impatient with it. Bintou asked them to speak slowly and be patient with me. We agreed to write things down and Gansonre agreed to help me. He wants Bintou to stay one month.

12-29-07

After a power bar breakfast, I was doing my exercises when Garrett (my closest PCV) knocked on the door. He was so welcome, and Bintou invited him to go with us to tour the clinic where I will be hanging out to learn the medical protocol here in Sala. We walked across a field to CSPS (clinic) and found the nurse dressing a small girl's leg wound, after which her father rode her back home on his bike. Gansonre, the nurse, gave us a tour of the clinic and the Maternite' in a separate building and the pharmacy, which has 60 drugs on hand. In this culture that is a lot. Gansonre mentioned the great need for sensibilization on health issues with the community, ie. immunization, malaria, and family planning. Those are things PC has trained us on doing. He told us that a woman delivered a baby last night in the Maternite' and there is another in labor now. We noted that the rooms for labor, delivery and recovery are pretty simple, without amenities.

We walked back to my house for lunch, and Garrett and I visited about my village and his, Thyou. He is in the secondary school there, teaching classes in mathematics and English. He said the education inspector advised him to use more English than French in his class to challenge the students more. Expectations of students are very high in this culture.

After an afternoon lesson of French pronouns, Bintou and I were invited to a welcoming and traditional dinner with the chef, the major, his elder brother, Gansonre, and other fonctionaires at the local Buvette, where they hold social functions. The meal consisted of cous cous and sauce, chicken and drinks. The major left at sundown for prayer, and Gansonre got called for the delivery at Maternite'. We hung out for a while chatting with those left.

12-30-07

Today I will remember as my first faux pas. We had some leftover rice that was going bad, so I threw it outside in the field for the chickens. Minata was hollering at me “Give it to the children!” Bintou added that one can't insult the children by feeding the chickens. Minata took the pan and scooped handfuls and gave to each child watching. She told me if it is on the ground the children will pick it up and eat it. She softened that by saying “The previous PCV did the same thing.” But I started worrying that the children would get sick, which to my knowledge did not occur.

The major transported me to church that Sunday morning and I was directed up front to a bench and between some older gentlemen. The outside hangar where this congregation gathers makes a strong first impression. The children were sitting on pole benches in front of us and facing the left side of the altar. The mass was done in the local Moore' language, the priest had written his sermon in Moore' as well. The vestments, chalices and holy books were removed from a nearby trunk. The lay minister had an active role in the service as did his wife, a lead vocalist together with the choral director, who led two choral groups from the right front of the church. Young men were drumming on their instruments accompanying the singing.

Near the end of mass, the lay minister was speaking to the people in Moore' when I heard “Nasaara” (white person). He was welcoming me to the church community. Soon he called the tall, handsome choral director up front to repeat the words in French for me. After which he asked if I wanted to say something and I expressed my thanks and that my language is pretty limited. I asked him to share with the people that I am here with the Peace Corps and hope to work with and for the people here. They heard him translate that to Moore' and applauded. I think I was turning a little pink by then. After mass many people warmly greeted me. I asked the choral director if he would write down what he said so I could share it with my French teacher, Bintou. As he was doing that I told him of my need for a French and Moore' tutor. He told me that he is a language teacher for both, so I asked him to consider it. He told me his name, Kiemtore', Georges.

When the major came back to pick me up from church, he said he knew Georges and that he is a good man. I was so excited about the prospect of finding a language teacher, that it felt like a gift from God. I came home to share my find with Bintou, who said Gansonre is also working on this. And she was wondering how this would all go.

In the afternoon Bintou started making Riz Gras again for dinner that evening as we had invited a number of people over. Garrett brought local made French bread from his village and he and I went down to the barrage gardens to get tomatoes for the sauce. About this time, Gerard stopped by. He is Minata's brother and a carpenter. He measured for my counter top and for my bookcase. Bintou was negotiating with him to make sure I got what I wanted. And he was teasing her about me giving her to him for a second wife. He said to her “the mother of the house can give away her children”. By the time Gerard was done, Gansonre arrived with two men, one was Isodore, PCV Garrett's Moore' teacher and the other was the choral director from church. Isadore said Georges has more time and can teach both French and Moore'. The people present started bartering the price and it went from 2 mil to 1 mil an hour for five days a week. The plan was to start tomorrow, which I then found out is when Bintou is leaving. She was pleased that everything worked out to everyone's satisfaction and my language tutor was selected before her departure.

By 6pm we were all eating the wonderful Riz Gras meal by lamplight. (See pictures.) I had her write me the recipe for later. After the guests left Bintou, Garrett and I reviewed the evening's events and were satisfied. Bintou and I played Crazy 8's and talked about how welcoming the people of Sala are. Bintou said “I would like to live in Sala, especially with the Muslim major being so tolerant of the Catholic religion.

The next morning Gerard came with sketches of the bookcase that he will make for me at the end of the month, as the cupboard is all I can afford for this month. Minata came over to visit at the same time. She was very encouraging, saying she will do everything for me for the asking. She offered her son, Abdulaye to help she and I communicate, as he is taking English in school and already knows French and Moore' (her language). Minata said not to worry about my things when I leave my house as she will watch over me and my things.

Bintou got a message from the Peace Corps to return to the capitol, Ouaga, on the taxi brousse the next day. She made arrangements for Gansonre to take her via his moto to Sabou in the late afternoon. We spent a couple hours shopping at the marche' in Thyou,where we met up with Garrett and he showed us where to get the good local French bread. One of the sellers was Marie, who I had met at the church and she was selling “dolo” made by the church women. The marche has a series of small hangars where the people sit on logs and chat while having “local biere”. It tasted very good, not bitter, and comes from millet that the women pulverize in the mortier (mortar). We enjoyed the local brew with a few others there.

When it was time for Bintou to leave later in the afternoon, we both got a bit teary and said how fun our week together had been. Gansonre showed up and away they went (see picture).

My new French teacher arrived at the same time and we began our lesson. He brought a French primer and the alphabet written out for me. He also articulated sounds for me and drew pictures. By the end of the hour lesson, the daylight had faded and it became difficult for me to see. We lit the kerosene lamp and agreed to switch our time to earlier for visibility. Then I sat outside awhile as the sky filled with stars. The neighbor kids came over and hung out too. Minata brought over rice and to', a staple of the BF diet, made from millet too.

Although I retired early on this New Year's Eve, the video going on full blast in Sala and some activity in Thyou, kept waking me up. Burkinabe' celebrate too on this date, although I only heard one firework!

The next morning I rode my bike to church for the service and greeted many of my new found friends there, the pretre (priest), the catechiste Jean Baptiste, his wife, Marie, and of course the choral director, (and my new language teacher) Georges. On my way back home, I found Garrett's house and paid him a visit. He was working on lesson plans for his class, which resumes Friday after the holiday break. He showed me several carpentry items he had built since he came to Thyou. As I continued my bike ride home, the RN came by on his moto and invited me to his home for dinner. We set a time and he pointed out his maison as the one with the antennae. When Abdulaye and I arrived we were served refreshments, drinks and hors-d'oeuvres, then a salad and the main meal, chicken with rice. We talked about family and work. Naturally I met his wife, Mimouna and little girl, Sheri. Gansonre asked to observe my French lesson. So in fact my teacher had stopped by while I was gone to dinner, but returned later with several friends, and we all went inside for my lesson. The visitors chuckled at my accent. Georges helped with my pronunciation and after a brief time everyone left. We set a time to go to the clinic the following morning.

I got a call from my family and learned about their recent time at the coast for the holiday gathering during a winter storm. The grandchildren enjoyed extended time together, and sharing the new baby in the family, Cash Patrick Landis. Heather recapped her trip to Cancun for Xmas.

02-01-08

After a morning Fr lesson, my tutor and I went to the CSPS village clinic, where the major was seeing patients. We observed briefly, when the nurse told me the midwife was returning tomorrow from her holiday break. In the afternoon I sat outside where the women were conversing in Moore' and the girls were working on each other's hair. They were taking braids out, combing hair in preparation for washing it. They use small bands and long strands of plastic cording to augment their plaits.

Abdulaye's older brother, Madi, was home on a visit and came over after dinner and we all worked on my French. Madi reviewed my written work and we practiced a few sentences together. It was fun. Their uncle Issaka came over for tea and conversation.

The next morning Minata and I walked to the maison behind ours to greet her sister-in-law. We also watched a young man pour clay into brick forms nearby. Youngsters were stacking dried bricks, others were carrying water to the mound where he was making the clay consistency to his liking. Interesting process and everyone helps out.

At my French lesson, I learned from my teacher that his wife and nine month old baby have been sick since Christmas and are staying in Koudougou with relatives for proximity to medical care. The baby has had diarrhea. He said his two daughters are in primary and secondary school and home with him in the next village. He bikes the 40 K to visit the wife and baby on the weekends. I told him that I plan to go there for the internet also on the weekend, but I will get transport from the main road, at Sabou,15 K away.

On Friday when I went to the CSPS in the morning, I copied the Sala map indicating the nine satellite villages also served by this clinic. Mostly the outlying people come in to the clinic, but there is also outreach, where medical staff go to the small villages for vaccinations, etc. Always when I arrive at the clinic the major stops what he is doing to greet me. The nurse showed me the population statistics and other data he collects for the clinic as part of the health ministry for BF. The accoucheuse had returned but was gone to a small village to give prenatal care.

My afternoons are generally at home, market or visiting. This day I joined a group of women outside talking. Salimata engaged me with names of everyone and some Moore' words. It is obvious they want me to know their language. While a number of men speak French, the women only speak Moore', a very tonal language with nasal and rhythmic sounds abounding. Again the neighbor girls were doing hair. Salimata did mine. The African females use extensions in the hair and all kinds of decoration. I have noticed all variations of black, brown and weaves done, plus all designs of rows of braids (some extremely artistic on the head). Like in America there are a few people who sport unusual colors, red, orange, purple extensions too.

After my French lesson this day, I invited my teacher to accompany me to meet the accoucheuse. Part of the deal I made when we hired him, was that he would go to meetings and other things where I could use some help communicating. The RN came with us to her house. Pierrette has magnificent dimples and a ready smile. It is delightful to know there is a female presence amongst the medical staff. Gansonre told me he is beginning to understand my accent, as we spent time articulating some French words.

On Saturday I strapped my overnight bag onto my bike and took off for Sabou, where I would catch a taxi brousse over to Koudougou, the main town in my region. It was quiet as the sun came up and the birds flew around. The landscape is dry ground with deciduous trees in a thin forest. There was an occasional biker, moto or truck on the road, but mostly it was me and the African morning.

The older guy that drove the mini truck across the 40K was careful. I noted the drop off point in town so I could find it in two days for the return trip. I made my way to the mission, got a room and took a nap. I text my friend, Achille and we met for dinner at a conference center. We agreed to meet the next morning for mass at the cathedral in town.

When we arrived at church the first mass was still going, so we waited outside for it to finish. My French teacher exited the church, and came over to chat with us. We discovered that the next mass was in an hour, so Georges invited us to come meet his wife and baby about 1K away from church. It was obvious they had been sick. I noticed the baby had difficulty breathing and had weeping behind the ears, much like my son did as a baby.

After the French mass with singing that was awesome, esp the trilling that women occasionally do during a hymn, we rode over to the Achille's family home to meet them. His father, Maxime is old and has a disease of the nerve and muscle system, which is wasting his body away. His legs are like toothpicks as he lay on the chaise during our visit. We went next door where his older brother's family lives, and visited. Seraphin does silk screening on tee shirts, using the computer to generate the picture, and this is how he advertises his sign company business. Achille works for him. When we returned to Achille's family home, his mother, Cecile had made rice and sauce for us. It was an enjoyable time together, and we planned that Achille would come to Sala in a month and visit me.

I worked on my blog that night and the next morning. At the dining room, I met a French couple who had ferried across from Gibraltar on the Mediterranean, and drove across West Africa (French) on their way to Ghana. They patiently listened to me and my French. They told me Obama won in Iowa, and that they like Hiliary. They were "comme ci, comme ca" about their new president..

Finally I went to the internet to post my blog and head for the return transport home to Sala, a memorable ride to be sure! The young driver hot wired the car for starters, then stopped a short distance out of town I assumed to pick up a passenger (a man with an obvious flat bike tire wanting a lift), but-- no the driver got out, took off the radiator cap, fetched the water can to fill the radiator, threw the cap onto the dash, and away we went, leaving the hitchhiker in the dust. He repeated this exercise a couple more times too. He drove so fast over the washboard road that we were only a big ball of red dust moving along and got there in 30 minutes. I was glad I had my book in my backpack, as it served as a diversion because I couldn't bear to look out the front window. I biked back from Sabou to Sala.

On return from an errand to the boutique in village, I noticed the chef sitting at the cabaret out back of the buvette. I sat and chatted with him a bit, as we drank a beer. He called his son and granddaughter to interpret a time or two, but he speaks a few words of English and a fair amount of French, so it was not bad. A happy, thin man I guess to be 60ish.

09-01-08

This morning I went to the clinic early, and the major had me sit in on a couple consultations. He took blood pressure readings and temperatures of a several people, then spoke to them in Moore' getting their first hand account of the problem, then he wrote out a prescription to be filled by the pharmacist, Adama. The patients return with Rx in hand as their medical practitioner explains how they are to take it. I could understand the Moore' beoogo (morning) windga (afternoon) and zaabre (evening) as he said it, meaning 3x day. The major had me take notes for the schedule of monthly vaccination visits to the satellite villages, where I can ride my bike to the nearer ones four of the days next week.

In the maternite' building was a mother, new baby and her family. Meanwhile at the clinic Gansonre started an IV drip on a little thin boy. He added vitamins and nutrients along with antibiotics to the IV. The child's father cleaned him up when he vomited. The drip takes a couple hours.

I asked to visit the primary school in Sala, and Gansonre accompanied me there to meet the headmaster and the six teachers. One class, a large first grade was sitting outside under a hangar. The teacher has a branch in hand, more as a threat I suppose to control the over sized class just beginning their formal education. Garrett told me later that they are not allowed to do that after the first couple grades. The other outdoor class was the second grade and I was happy to see they use the same French primer I have. As we visited each class, I spoke in my limited way. The class and I practiced “Bonjour classe! Ca va? Bien.” (Good morning, how are you? I am fine.) The director had my neighbor kids raise their hands, so I could pick them out easier. I promised to return in a few weeks with some supplies from America.

That day when my language teacher came, he expressed that he really wants me to learn Moore', which I have resisted until I get better at French. We went over the sentences I wrote, and I read two lessons from my primer. We laughed about my return taxi brousse ride from Kdg, and I told him about the vaccination schedule. He wanted to accompany me, but I told him I couldn't pay for the travel time, and would defer that question to my supervisor, Dr. Claude. He kept saying “Pas de proble'me!” Georges told me he saw the accoucheuse in Kdg, and called her the matron of CSPS. Georges said he hopes to go back to Koudougou in two weeks to bring his family home.

The major was seeing patients the next morning, which is when I typically hang out at the clinic. There was a child on an IV drip, and an older woman came in mentally out of it. The major told me that the malaria (palu) does that to some people. Next he saw a woman who had her face covered with her pagne, because the sunlight hurt her eyes. The major got out a book about medical problems and treatment and confirmed “Lesion Ouverte” (eye) and wrote her a Rx. Next a young girl and her dad followed the major over to the maternite' where the gas run refrigerator is located, to get her a tetanus shot, because her foot injury was caused when she had stepped on something.

In the spirit of continuing to meet the local important people, Gansonre and I walked over and met the Forestry Coordinator, Mohammed and later the permit supervisor, Urbain. When we returned the midwife was doing 2007 stats, and let me know that the baby weighing happens every Thursday. I assured her I would be here tomorrow for that.

On this marche' day, I bought barbecued pork and sat down on a log to make my sandwich with my small leatherman knife to slice the French bread and remove fat from the meat. A crowd started gathering interested in watching me make a sandwich. After this self initiated demo, I got up, sandwich in hand and ate on the move. After a few produce purchases, I found Marie and we went for a calabasse of dolo. In BF the socializing happens all the time, catching up on the news etc, but one of the main social venues is the marche' and the locals gather to chat over the local beer.

After my lesson, Abdulaye came over to play cards until it was dark. When a bat flew in through my front door, he knew immediately what it was. That proved helpful later that night when one flew in through the rafters. I had my screen door to my bedroom open, so in it came. Bats flutter and fly fast. I knew that it had perfect vision in the dark and that I didn't, so I decided to cover up until the bat found it's way back out. It wasn't long and silence reigned. A good reminder to close my bedroom screen door at night.

11-01-08

I spent most of the morning with the accoucheuse Pierrette weighing babies. She sent one baby over to the clinic to be checked by Gansonre, who said the four month old baby has pneumonia. They live 8 K away in the petite village Salo, so the mom would return tomorrow with the money for the prescription. The RN said that is the reality here. There was another child on IV for malaria, all others from yesterday had gone home after their drips finished.

In the afternoon I went home and hemmed my kitchen curtain. Becky text me that I have a lot of mail at the bureau. I am so waiting for batteries, I'm nearly out. Then I heard that they may be removed as an item on the Haz Met security list by Customs.

12-01-08

The major had gone to the district health office, so Gansonre was very busy caring for patients. He was treating two people with malaria in the lobby area where five cots serve as hospital beds. He had several more walk ins. The nurse told me the chef of the village was very sick. Gansonre said he went to his home last night to care for him. He took me with him at noon to go look in on the chef again. He changed his IV, adding a number of meds to it, antibiotics, vitamins, and hydrocortisone. The next day the chef was at the clinic for a booster IV. This is the time of year for the more serious illnesses for everyone.

On Saturday I went to the clinic to see how busy they are on the weekends there. Two people were on IV drips. A family was there with food eating and chatting with their older patient. A small boy returned for a checkup with bumps all over his skin, dermatitis rash from the medicine he received in the IV drip earlier that week perhaps. He checked a woman who was in danger of miscarriage and gave her an injection. Another couple came in for pregnancy test that proved positive. I don't know what that conversation was like, due to my language. It was a busy morning at the clinic.

Soon a group of us from the CSPS went to the home of the treasurer of the COGES (health board) to pay condolences because his wife died Thursday. All the houses/huts had many men sitting together at this important family time. There are typical Moore' words to express sympathy that were said.

In the late afternoon, I sat out front of the boutique in Thyou and chatted with a young nurse, who is from a petite village 7K west of there. He expressed his philosophy of the difficulty the people of Burkina Faso experience rising above poverty. He likened the cycle of the big old tree across the road there, to that of the animals and the people. Everything struggles and the influences are sometimes unseen and unpredictable. Interesting!

That day Abdolaye washed my dirt red bike and the white and turquoise reappeared. Belle velo! I finished my second book, “Looking for Lovedu” by Ann Jones, a gifted witty writer. She describes a road trip across the length and breadth of Africa from Morocco to Capetown.

On Sunday I learned first hand how the congregation at church manages when there is no priest. Church leaders surface and lead the people in prayer, song, readings, the rosary, etc. On my bike ride home from there, I came upon two girls who didn't hear me behind them due to the oncoming transport. I hit the brakes and went down, scraping one knee. That took the wind out of my sails for awhile, but wasn't serious. There is a Moore' greeting “Laafi Bala”, everything is OK, things could always be worse.

That day I decided to map out my compound (quartier) so I could get a handle on where all my neighbors live and organize a way of remembering names and faces. Abdoulaye walked with me in the two big quartiers, each with 8-10 huts/dwellings. There are many children per compound. And we have a rough draft now.

When Chris and Shelly called me that evening, Tabor talked to gramma for a couple minutes on the phone, and “showed me his box” in his hand. I remember this stage in the two year old's life. My sisters phoned the same day, having figured out how to make a phone card work all the way to Africa. What a treat to hear from loved ones!

Vaccination Week 14-01-08 to 20-01-08

Every month a nurse and second person go to the smaller, surrounding villages to give immunizations. I made a dry run to Zao on Monday, because I was confused by the configuration of the African calendar, which leads with Monday. I was met by some friendly local villagers, who said I was 3 days early. We chuckled about that. They took me over to the primary school to meet the staff and children, so the trip was productive. On Wednesday I went to Salo (8K away) with with my French teacher and Gilbert, the nurse for the vaccinations to be given out. It all took place under a big tree near the marche'. The RN commenced TB injections with the pregnant women, and then onto the infant immunizations in the premiere year. I saw the young mom and 4 month old infant with pneumonia I had seen at the clinic last week. The baby was recovering nicely. She had let others know I was coming there.

On this trip we also visited the school, whose headmaster was a friend of Georges. Again I spoke to the classes of students in my own way and promised to return.

On the correct date, I with my language teacher returned to Zao for their vaccination day. The same friendly people found us right away. (See picture.) Soon the major, his head wrapped in his checkered scarf, arrived on his moto, happy to see us there. Then the women started arriving, some pregnant for shots and some with babies for shots. This lasted through late morning and again in the early afternoon. Two local villagers typically help the major with the process. We had lunch at the marche'.

On the return trip home as we neared my village, we heard chanting and dancing. There was a marriage feast going on. We stopped to watch for awhile, and the people are always excited when we show interest in their activities.

On Friday I biked 15K to Dana and another 2K to Dayolo, and repeated the same vaccination program as in the other villages. Gilbert was the RN today set up at a table in the simple marche' there. Again two local villagers helped out. The young woman Delphine liked my Timex watch. I let her know the young man at the station where I charge my cellular phone wants it too, and I told him he has to wait two years.

After an hour we traveled back to Dana where the bigger population is and spent several hours there. Pregnant women, babies all got attention. But some folks were told they were either too early or too late, after their paperwork was checked. The two helpers chatted with me over lunch that day.

Usually in the evening Abdulaye comes over to play cards, and he often trounces me, then laughs wildly. This night after we played awhile, I received a visit from Georges' younger brother who was in town briefly from the seminary where he is in training to become a priest. He lives in Fara now on assignment until he goes to Bobo for two years of theology and philosophy. He also is extremely polite, friendly and handsome. Plus he speaks English, Dutch, Moore' and French well. It is obvious his brother has told him about his new American language student. As Maxime leaves he wishes me “Wend na Kond Nidaare!” God be with you until next time.

On Sunday I was to go to a village Bolo, on an ill-defined dirt path behind the barrage 8K away. I realized that I could easily get lost so I asked locals some questions, but they spoke yet another tribal language and we weren't having any luck. Except to say that one old man was demonstrating his aching back, and I can get the language for arthritis! So I turned around to head back to my house to get Abdulaye for a guide, but about that time a man who did understand sent a 10 year old boy to lead me to Bolo. En route we passed a field of huge boulders that were thousands of years old. Trees grow up out of some of the crevices. (See picture.)

The major had gone to a smaller village beyond Bolo, and soon after I arrived he came motoing in with his checkered scarf and sunglasses on. He carried the cooler of immunization meds and his briefcase with the medical logs too. We set up under a hangar, me sitting in a reed chair the villagers brought, and the major on an antler shaped old section of a tree, shiny from wear, which made a great perch. The people came for an hour or so for injections. After we ate some fried arachide (peanut) dough balls, I asked the major for another guide. An older gentleman was going my way and my speed, so I was pleased to follow him.

That concluded my first week doing the vaccination program.

01-21-08

I went to the maternite' this morning to see if the women who were given prenatal slips at the satellite villages would show up there today for prenatal visits. Sure enough a couple young women from Salo came, including the young mother who had her baby in for pneumonia last week. Now her baby has diarrhea. The grandmother was along too and they wanted me to try their clabbered milk, which tasted like yogurt. I hung out at the prenatal visits a couple hours while the women waited their turn to be seen by the accoucheuse, take their prescription to the pharmacy, and return so the midwife could explain the dosage and schedule for taking Rx, and then they were on their way back home.

It was market day, so I went there to get vegetables, bread and barbecued pork for sandwiches. After several other errands and visiting with friends from church, I headed home. The neighbor kid and I listened to the African Soccer game on the radio and Cote d'Ivoire won 1-0 over Nigeria. It was exciting and even tho the Burkinabe' aren't playing, they have a keen interest in who wins. Many of the men from the village go to Cote d'Ivoire, where there is work.

The next day I straightened my home as I was expecting company, Stephanie S. from Gao. She was riding up to my maison when I was ready to go over to the clinic. We visited a bit, then went to CSPS to renew her friendship with the major, who was so glad to see her. Gansonre and the major started talking about the Meningitis Campaign that was starting Wednesday to Sunday for this disease. They will have three teams to vaccinate. They put me on the Sala team for Wed and Thursday. Midday they had a meeting with all the helpers. After that Stephanie met Garrett at my house and we made lunch, tuna sandwiches and marinated cucumbers. We sat around the house in the afternoon, visiting. At 4pm my tutor came for my lesson, and Stephanie chatted with Georges in Moore'. At 5pm she went down to the roadside to wait for taxi brousse, which didn't come for several more hours. After my lesson, we joined Stephanie as she waited for her ride. We talked about her trip home for the holidays and Marcos's Early Termination,because his gramma is ill.

Stephanie, who is a second year PCV suggested that I let the COGES know what I want and to keep trying French with them and to have them write things down. She noted that understanding will come as I am practiced with using the proper words to convey my intent to my listener.

We finished the day off with listening to a soccer game between Egypt and Cameroon. played cards and it was so hard for Abdulaye to loose. He can give the evil eye to me, then we laugh.

01-23-08

The Meningitis Campaign starts this day, and when I arrived at CSPS in village, they were set up under the big tree in front. The major, the accoucheuse, two women marking the tally and opening the needle pkgs, two men for crowd control, plus there was the primary teachers with their classes in lines. Both lines were almost out to the street. (See pictures.) I sat down to help record, but soon decided I would rather help at the front of the lines with securing arms and sleeves, etc. The target population was ages two to thirty, so we questioned ages and pregnancy of people. Some folks had their WHO health cards, which would show us their ages. The major and accoucheuse mixed the 3 strand meningitis vaccine with sterile water and then gave a quick shot per person. This assembly line worked well. National officials came by during the day briefly to check the status of the campaign.

One of the nurses returned from a small village where he gave the meningitis vaccinations. He was making a chart to outline the day's data. I shared with him that when I read the meningitis information brochure, I comprehended most of it, but when he talked to all of us helping the day before, I did not understand. So written French is a good option for me at this time. I only had a short list of medical vocabulary words to look up. By early afternoon (2pm) the first campaign day was over and it was satisfying to think of how many people would be protected from the disease that had taken three local lives last year.

01-24-08

My propane tank is empty! So Minata boiled my coffee water on her open fire in her cuisine. I wore my athletic shoes for my foot comfort today. When I got to the clinic at 8am they were already starting the meningitis vaccinations with the few people in line, but they kept streaming in steadily, many from the next village Thyou. I talked with the major about my propane, and he said “Pas de probleme!” and sent his son later that day to pick up my tank, drive the moto to Sabou and get me a full one. All of those were things I would be hard pressed to do on my own.

When I went to the marche' in the afternoon, I found people from my church there, Marie and her husband Basile, who will come to my house tomorrow for a visit, my French teacher who was talking to his brother, Cyrille, and Gerard, my carpenter, who gave me an update on my bookshelf. Many people inquired about the meningitis vaccinations, as info travels amazingly fast by word of mouth in village. We moved to another dolo place, and there Georges introduced me to his father, Harry. I told him what a great language teacher his son is, and his broad smile told me he was proud.

After my French lesson that afternoon, we played cards with Abdulaye, and he won today!

01-25-08

This morning I decided to French braid my hair after my bath. I know it will take practice, so why not begin? I called the bureau to have my mail and prescriptions brought when Dr. Jean Luc comes for the medical visit next Monday. I talked with the country director who asked me how things were going at site and did I like it. She observed that if I am helping with vaccinations then I am doing well. Marily's term is over next month, so I thanked her for her help behind the scenes with my placement in Burkina Faso, which I know she had a hand in.

When I showed up at the CSPS,the major was seeing a few patients, and said I could watch. He said he was happy to look through the National Geographic with the stories on open heart surgery, even though it wasn't in French. One old crippled woman arrived on the back of the bicycle of her two grandchildren. She had a bad cough and the major wanted her to come to the injection room for an antibiotic shot. I took her hand and guided her into the room. She walked on two very distorted legs. That made her seem very short, about to my waist. She exited the same way.

There was young man about 30 sitting in the waiting room with his hand swollen twice its normal size, and he was in severe pain. The two puncture wounds in his thumb suggested to me something had penetrated it. The major said “No, It is Panaris, infection du ponce.” He put on sterile gloves and injected lidocaine into the thumb area, as the man moaned in agony. The injection fluid oozed out of the punctures, and then the major took a razor and cut between the two points, splaying the thumb. He put the ruby benodine on gauze to dress the wound and then wrapped the entire hand. The man got a big shot of antibiotic and some pain pills, before his friend rode him home on a moto.

After my French lesson, we listened to the soccer game on the radio (Cote d' Ivoire-4, Togo-1) and ate sandwiches. Georges asked for an advance for his Koudougou trip to see his wife and baby on the weekend. Abdulaye and I played his card game twice and I went to bed early as my knee hurt, and besides tomorrow my friend Achille comes and I want to be rested.

I did my knee exercises in the morning to strengthen them. Achille texted me that he was en route, but he didn't arrive until afternoon because his motobike broke down and he got parts at the ville on the way. Then he texted again when he got to Sala, and I went to meet him at the boutique, a point of reference in all the small villages. He was happy to have arrived after his 40K trip from Koudougou, evidenced by his smiling face. We went to my place, and I introduced him to everyone, before we went on a tour of the barrage and gardens, with Abdulaye as our guide. He hung out with us all day. We visited a lower area of the reservoire filled with crocodiles and birds, before getting to the far side and Minata's garden. There were many crates of bright red tomatoes harvested for transport to Cote d'Ivoire. (See pictures.)

I took Achille to the clinic to meet the major and Gansonre. The major talked to him about the mosque in KDG next to where Achille works. And he checked out the family name, Nana, for common friends, etc. Gansonre invited us to his home to watch football, Egypt vs Sudan tonight. This soccer competition is a national obsession, esp as it nears the finals.

After practicing the Riz Gras recipe Bintou left me, we had dinner. C'est Bon! We walked to Gansonre's house and there were three of the major's sons there too watching the match, Zacharias, Abdulaye and Saidou, who runs a boutique in Thyou. It was fun, and Egypt won. With no moon out, we walked home in the pitch black darkness. There is a phenomenon about how the Africans see in this blackness, which my western eyes don't come close to. Achille slept in the main room on the lipico, with a pagne and small pillow, which he was fine with. It was so good to spend time with him. His family had asked after me, and were happy for him to visit me. Everyone he met in Sala loved talking to Achille, he is so respectful. He observed that the health job in Africa is very important, and he too wanted a meningitis vaccination if possible.

27-01-08

I rallied around 7am, made coffee and introduced Achille to peanut butter and banana sandwiches for breakfast. We visited the clinic this morning where many people were and also the maternite', where Gansonre was making another village map. He needed green color to highlight the barrages, and I was able to give him crayons from my resource box. After awhile we went home to play “Uno” with four of us. This game works so well here, as there is no language involved, it's all symbols. Since it was marche' day in Thyou, we visited that before Achille filled his moto with gas and headed back to Koudougou.

I found my friends Marie and Basile at the marche'. They are coming for lunch later this week and to play Uno. After I got home and relaxed, the major came by with a man, who is the husband of Mariam, the schoolteacher in Zao. While we visited some, I showed the major my foulard that I bought to cover my head when I go to mosque with him Friday midday. I also got out the Koran I am reading, and the major read the cover which is in Arabic straight away. He inquired about the PC doctor visit I am scheduled for tomorrow in village. I assured him I would bring Dr. Luc to the clinic.

I spoke to my kids in Seattle, with news they were sick this winter and the baby ended up needing oxygen, so they all spent a few days at the Children's Hospital. Jodi says Cash weighs 15 lbs and is in 90% for height. I would be far more lonesome without cell phones and email!

28-01-08

The major sent Adama, the pharmacist to fetch me to watch as another patient with a swollen hand was there for treatment. Gilbert, the RN was redressing the man's wound with benodine and advised him to return in 3 days to remove his stitches. It was exciting that I was invited over.

The driver brought PC Dr. Jean Luc around 10 that morning for my medical site visit and we had tea and sat and chatted while he completed a questionnaire. He asked me questions about my health both physical and mental, about my diet and safety, about available resources, water, latrine, and douche. He inquired about how I liked my placement and how it was going here. He had moved his family here from Cameroon and they too have faced adjustment challenges. When I surfaced the issue about not getting batteries from America, he pondered whether batteries were on a Hazmet list at the customs point. He offered to get some in Ouaga and send them to me by bush taxi.

Soon we went to the CSPS and met with the major. They got along famously. Dr. Luc was very impressed with the pharmacy there, which has over 60 medications on hand, compared to his 12 when he was in Cameroon. Dr. Luc agreed with me that language is an issue, but my major says I will speak it well soon.

Later in the day I had no language lesson, so I invited Zanabou,10, over to read some French from my primer. She is so ripe for learning. Zanabou is a granddaughter to Minata and there is no money to send her to school. Then Abdulaye and I listened to a football game- Ghana 2- Morocco-0.

29-01-08

The clinic was slow this morning, so I walked across the dirt road out front to the boutique for a couple things. Then I visited the two ladies who sell food in little places on the opposite side of the road. La femme let me taste “kor” (potatoe), I liked it, so got one, added oil and salt. It was tasty. Next to her the other woman was preparing vegetables and meat in a broth over the open fire in a big round kettle.

When I returned to my house to study, Garrett came over and we enjoyed some stories his students had written. One was titled “Who killed the teacher?” and the other was “Who stole the chef's crown?” They were witty and fun. I can tell his class enjoys his teaching style and ideas for them. Garrett says he will go to Ouaga next Monday so he took my language bills to turn in, plus he will get my boxes. that came in the mail. Angie called me in the afternoon and we talked about lots of things, Cash being in the hospital a few days with his parents by his side, the boxes Lorraine and Sally are getting ready, my diet, esp protein, and I had received a small check from consignment furniture store.

Today I started reading “Kite Runner”. Later in the afternoon my language teacher Georges arrived and we studied French and Moore'. As I boiled cabbage, carrots, onions and potatoe with a little Lipton's soup mix, we also listened to the football game, Nigeria-2 , Benin-0. Abdulaye came over and ate too, then we three played a very long game of Uno.

30-01-08

My upset stomach of two days showed itself, I ran out to the latrine. When I got to the clinic this morning it was not very busy. However the major El Hadj was treating my neighbor, Issaka, who was home from Cote d'Ivoire, for palu and he was on an IV. I was so surprised by that, esp since he was back home noon and looking fine. When I was chatting with the major he told me that the fruit at the marche' goes very quickly in the morning. That sure explains why by the time I usually go it is afternoon and there is no fruit I visited with Gansonre who was still busy doing statistics for his upcoming meeting at the district

That afternoon when I got to the marche', Marie found me and took me around to buy bread, potatoe and lettuce and pork. Because the pork was sold out at the churches booth, I looked for another source, which wasn't as good, but at least we could make a sandwich for lunch. We wandered over to the churches dolo bar and Mary, Jean Baptiste's wife, bought me local beer. Georges was there and soon a vendor selling guinea birds was convincing him he needed two of them. They are stiff and skinned, ready to cook.

I had my French lesson in the late afternoon and fried the guinea bird after George cut it up. I made Alfredo pasta to go with the bird. Again we played Uno with Abdulaye. He is getting so good at the game, he is starting to cheat. We all laugh a lot together. I paid Georges 20 mil for my first month of lessons.

31-01-08

On this day when I got to the CSPS the accoucheuse was gone to KDG, so no baby weighing today. The major was consulting with a woman who had a temperature and a cough. He listened to her lungs and treated her for pneumonia. Gilbert, an assistant prepared the IV drip, setting aside his perusal of the newsheet I suspect regarding the soccer games. More women tried to talk with me and it makes it clear there is a place for me here, if only I could speak Moore'..

I prepared some food ahead of time for my company today, Basile and Marie, who are coming for lunch and to play Uno. They arrived around 1:30pm and then I discovered Basile has a sister, Sampoko, in my quartier. Basile and I read my French primer for a bit, as he is encouraging my learning of the language. Then I finished preparing the tomato sandwiches and we ate lunch. As we waited for their friend and mine, Georges to arrive, Abdulaye came from next door to play his card game with us. Soon I heard a moto pull up and there was Georges and his brother, Maxime, who entered with apologies for lateness. Maxime was home from seminary for a brief family visit.

The six of us started playing Uno, which lasted for two hours and they all loved it. Basile became savvy enough to try to sneak a peak at my hand and we all had a big laugh over that. This Uno game works well here because it is all symbols and no language.

At 4pm and after the guests departed my French lesson happened as usual. I turned in early that night after getting things together for a weekend in Koudougou at the mission and to visit the internet.

African Adventure 5

12-03-07

Syr, the transporter, had gone to several trainees host homes to pick up their luggage, because the other five trainees were biking to OHG, and couldn't carry everything as they moved out of Somyaga. Then he came after me, and all my belongings. The SUV was loaded to the brim. By the time we arrived at ECLA the tech class was half over. The technical training was on the “bridge to post”, meaning from here (training) to there (our placement).

In the late morning, we were each scheduled to be interviewed by Thierry, the PC training program director. When it was my turn I brought my program evaluation on the classes and teachers, but it wasn't done and he just said OK. Then he started giving me my evaluation, which took me by surprise. He said I did excellent in everything, but in language I am not at the mid-intermediate level yet (one step below). He went on to say that the staff had made a recommendation and the Country Director agreed that I could be sworn in with everyone else on Friday.

I started crying! I had prepared myself that I would swear in after I reached level, but “Oh my!” I signed my evaluation and left. As soon as I saw Linda, I cried again. Then I saw the other trainees from my village and yes, I cried again. They all hugged me and said they knew I would get to be in the ceremony Friday, to which I replied “I didn't know that.” They said I was the only one who didn't know it then. They added everyone knows it isn't from lack of effort! I went to my room and had a big cry. Dr. Claude called me on the phone and asked to see me. When I sat down with her she said Thierry spoke to her, and I recapped the meeting for her. She wisely asked me “Were they tears of joy or sadness?”

In the afternoon session Dr. Claude met with all of the health sector and gave us her expectations for the first three months in village along with the forms for quarterly reports, etc.

I was on the phone with Angie at dusk by the front gate, when my host family sisters all showed up from their boarding school in OHG to my training center, ECLA. We walked across the street to the tailor for a fitting of my swear-in dress. The teen sisters loved the two piece turquoise and white dress with a pintade pattern. It needs some altering but I am happy with it, especially the neckline of hand stitched pintades.

12-04-07

The first block was language with JZ and after introductory sentences were exchanged, we did Passe' Compose' (past tense verbs). Then we studied reflexive. In French they add a word before the verb to show it is an action the person took themselves.

The next session was led by the Administrative Officer, Sheila, who explained how we would be paid, get a checking account, moving-in money, etc. She also talked about the logistics of the move next Friday to villages.

In the afternoon Dr. Jean Luc gave a session on medical information every volunteer must know for their own personal health. We retook a test and self corrected it as a group.

That was followed by a class Marily, the Country Director herself led on the PCV handbook with all the do's and don't (s). The cold sodas she distributed helped that all go down easier. There are really three big rules you get sent home for breaking: 1) riding a motorbike without clearance 2) not wearing a helmet when riding your bicycle and 3) leaving the country without permission. Another obvious thing is to stay neutral on politics.

Marily spoke to Melissa and me after class about her consent that we would get to swear in Friday with everyone else. We will be given a test after another week of French and that will determine when we each go to our village. Her parting advise was to practice speaking in French as much as possible.

12-05-07

We had a vaccination campaign in the village of Kitou, a bit north of the turnoff for Somyaga. When Syr drove the six of us there, Jean Francais was already there with another RN plus his assistant. Women with infants were lined up in the village center under a tree getting shots. A short time later we all walked aways to the primary school, where two classes with their teachers and the principal came out. I identified with the tall professional female teacher, who was dressed in BF dress and heels for her job, located in the country with red earth everywhere.

One trainee wrote the date and type of vaccination on the yellow card. I put myself next to the children, helping them with sleeves, etc. When the child cries or winces about the shots, the adults scold them, everyone parents the children here. We took a couple pictures of the group of us. (See photos.) Then we walked to the village marche', where I found a dust mask made of fabric, which I really wanted.

I walked across the street from ECLA to the tailor's and picked up my dress, fit very nicely by the lady tailor. I found turquoise flip flops to match. After an afternoon of language class, we all were very excited that our tee shirts had arrived, artwork done by the two art majors in our group of stagierres.

The next day at French class, JZ and I reviewed the two exercises using “Qu' est ce que” and “Est-ce que”. They are two forms of starting a sentence that is a question in French. He let me off for the afternoon to study privately and also get packed for two days in Ouaga for the swearing in ceremony, which is Friday. The second day is set aside for shopping for large items we need to ship to our village sites, when our big luggage goes there in a week or so.

12-07-07 Swearing In Day to become Peace Corps Volunteers

As we pulled away from OHG, our training center for the past two months and headed for the big event in Ouaga, we 34 trainees were all very excited, reflected by the noise level. I was tapped on the shoulder next to where my MP3 player was in my ear, to a comment “We asked the bus driver to turn down the radio and now we hear you singing!” to which everyone started laughing around me.

After the two hour ride we hailed a taxi and went to the Nazemse hotel, nice but simple. We paired up for rooms and went to lunch. Becky and I went to the post office, which doubles for a bank. I got to watch as Becky wrote a check for the moving-in allowance PC set up for us. The PO is on a big main route in the capitol, and in front are lots of little boutiques. There I found wood carved-an African mask for Luke and a petite family of elephants for Kellen, both my grandsons have birthdays this month.

I also found carmelita stone earrings to match the ring Bob gave me seven years ago. They will go great with my African dress tonight. Becky found BF colors in a beaded necklace and bracelet she liked. We lounged a bit in the afternoon, and I put my bangs in bobby pins for a new look, as we began readying for the ceremony. By four in the afternoon we were all ready and began showing off our African attire to each other. Excitement was in the air!

Peace Corps had arranged for cars to drive us to the American Ambassador's home, where her back yard was set up for the ceremony under several large leafy trees and next to the pool. An African group was drumming and playing stringed instruments next to the small stage. We took many pictures at the rather grand entrance to the compound, as the well kept grounds were a great backdrop for our colorful attire. The eight male volunteers were equally brilliant in their tailored African clothing. But the women, all 26 of us were outstanding! See photos.

When the last of the invited dignitaries arrived, we trainees filled the first rows of chairs in front of the stage on either side. There were words of praise and encouragement from Thierry, the head of the training program and Marily, the PC Country Director. Then eight members of our class gave small speeches in French and seven tribal languages they had recently learned. Laughter erupted from the BF audience at times, as they are very happy with our effort to speak their tongues! This was followed by words from Jeanine Jackson, the American Ambassador and also from the Minister of Health of Burkina Faso.

Then our group was presented, we stood and repeated the oath, swearing in to the Peace Corps of the United States of America! It was exhilarating and the culmination of much work. You could feel the tension dissipate as we cheered and clapped. The refreshments were elegant: three grand cakes, each with a flag, US, BF and PC; and a bar in the back corner of the yard, which stayed busy all evening, and best of all the hors-d'oeuvres were being passed on huge trays by servers milling through the crowd.

Presently there was a tap on my shoulder, I was summoned to personally meet the Minister of Health. My reputation of senior volunteer, preceded me. I have found that age is very respected in this country. It was an exciting moment. Syr congratulated me, as did many of the language training staff, JZ, Theo, Bintou, and Patrice. I found Dr. Claude and Sylvie, RN, both at the top of our health program. A big group picture was taken, followed by one of the two groups and their respective managers, Small Enterprise Development and Health (Santee). See photos.

A short distance from our hotel was the bowling alley, where we had the party afterwards. It was a 5 lane alley, with electric pin setters, that worked about 75% of the time, and a dance floor and refreshment area, where a keg and snacks were. We all were giddy, we were so happy. Natalie was dancing with Rob and asked if I knew “the Swing” and I said “Sure!” Next thing I knew I was dancing with Rob and the youngsters thought that was cool. I grew up in the 50s and that's what we did then!

Soon two guy PCVs, Jed and Rene', were chatting with me and asked if I wanted to get into a group to bowl. I thought I better throw a practice ball to see if I could do this given when the last time I bowled was and my arthritic knees. Jed had a PCV give me her second ball to throw, and I picked up her spare to everyone's amazement (none more than mine). I played a line with them and ended up in the middle of the pack. I nearly made 100. At midnight seven of us walked home happily.

Saturday was filled with shopping for our homes in village. I bought my propane stove top, my cutting board, my thick foam mattress and a canteen box to store food in, out of reach of critters and insects. I found a chair to sit down at the store part of the time, as my body was feeling the effects of the previous night's jubilation. That night I went to a Lebanese restaurant for excellent schwarma and hummus wraps. The seating was outdoors, and at some tables people appeared to be smoking from hash pipes. My education is not all occurring in the classroom.

When I met a bunch of new PCVs going out dancing, I declined their invitation, saying one night was a lot for this gramma and I was hitting the hay. The next day we boarded the bus at noon and returned to OHG for a full week of training with our Counterparts from each of our villages.

Beginning Monday we had full days of classes, two blocks of prep work for the Counterpart Workshop Wed and Thurs, and two blocks of French with JZ. We reviewed my last French homework, and covered the present tense of the er and ir verbs, plus the verb “faire”, to do/make. My favorite new expression is “French is difficile (pronounced difficeeel)!”

Monday evening I waited at the front gate for my host sisters. I walked over to the seamstress boutique across the street and visited there awhile. All of a sudden they came, Fatimata, Ramata, Stephanie, Mary Angela and Minata. We went to my room and visited and they looked at photos of themselves on my laptop. Becky came by to greet them. I gave Fatimata the information paper on the Moringa Tree to give to Amade, their father. It was delightful to see them all. As I walked them out to the front gate, we made a plan to meet again Tues after classes, and they would show me their school.

12-11-07 BF Independence Day

In the first block of the morning schedule, JZ and I went over some adverbs and time phrases. Because I had inquired about prepositions, we focused on a', which has lots of uses in French language. The next block was Vini, Solomon and Siaka talking to us about the history of Burkina Faso and why today is celebrated by so many people. It was interesting and informative.

Then we broke into small groups and worked out our assigned parts to present the Peace Corps and its three goals to our counterparts at the upcoming workshop. In my group Laura and Matthew took the lead and divided the discussion into short presentations by each of us when our turn comes the next day. I spent over an hour at the internet. When I returned, there was Fatimata and Mary Angela waiting for me as promised. I got my flashlight and followed them south out of OHG on the main road to a lycee (secondary school). The girls showed me their classrooms and also Ramata's. The janitor kindly turned on the power and the lights came on so I could see dozens of three seat desks and blackboards full of chalk writings. I took a few pictures. See Facebook.

In a small area of the school grounds, women were in a kitchen preparing the evening meal for the boys who board at the school. Groups of boys tried their English out on me. They wanted me to stay and eat with them, but since I was the guest of my host sisters and they weren't included in the invitation, I declined. We did walk over to a separate area, where the dining was about to commence, and in typical fashion boys were swarming the serving counter. The noise level matched their eagerness for food.

We got on our bikes in the dark by then, and my host sisters insisted on riding clear back to ECLA with me, who had a flashlight and they who had no light. I swear Africans have 20-20 night vision. They literally see in the dark!

Wednesday & Thursday- Counterpart Workshop

We spent two days working and eating together. Each health volunteer had a person from their assigned village present. They came from all over Burkina Faso and were lodged in a nearby hotel. Vini did an excellent job leading this conference with diplomacy and a sense of humor. He was very handsome in his suits both days. It came time to do our little presentation, and after I gave the intro for our group, everyone clapped. I suspect my struggle with the language prompted that.
Next we did a familiar warm up exercise. We interviewed each other and presented our counterpart to the whole group. I almost forgot to say Gansonre, Moussa was a certified nurse, but slipped it in at the end. Gansonre appears to be a serious perhaps shy 28 year old, who says he likes talking with people and he likes honesty. His expectation is good collaboration. Our program manager, Dr. Claude was here for the entire two day workshop, and she is very well liked and received by everyone. She truly bridges the gap.

All of the counterparts are part of their village's health system in some role. Some of the guys there were so funny and real leaders, esp a short witty guy, who had everyone laughing and another handsome guy, who was drafted to lead a clapping, clicking routine; a salute pointing his thumbs rapidly in different directions and clapping in between. Then the audience tried it. It was a riot.

Some time during the morning session of the last day they sandwiched in my final test with Theo. My level stayed the same, so I was slated for an additional week of French. As we finished our workshop Gansonre asked Vini something about communication and my limited French and Vini responded that I would come later, after more language. (I was embarrassed.)

The training program director, Thierry, gave me three options: stay in Ouaga with a host family for a week, stay at a hotel, or go to stay at a mission at Koudougou, which will be my regional capitol eventually and I chose the latter. All the choices of course came with a tutor. Thierry said I could pick my teacher, but I deferred to his judgment on that. Later that afternoon JZ talked to me and said he would be my teacher and it would be an honor to do it. I almost cried as he is the director of the PC language program in BF. When I spotted Becky I did start crying from the pent up stress. I was also trying that day to get my blog and pictures into the flash drive, but struggled with it. Rob came by my room that evening and helped me. I went back and started packing up for our 6:30am departure for Ouaga in a bus Thierry had ordered for us and our Counterparts, as most of the pairs were then going to site together. When we arrived at Ouaga, to my surprise, Gansonre helped me with all my luggage, carrying it to the PC SUV and wiping the dust off my bags. He genuinely was helpful and we agreed I'd see him in a week or two.

Many people were at the transit house en route to somewhere else. It was near the holidays after all. Some PCVs were waiting for relatives coming to visit from the states, some were going home for Xmas, and some were done with service and going home for good. I went to the PC bureau for free use of the internet. Then a bunch of us got a taxi and went to the American Embassy Club for lunch. They have a reputation of the best chocolate shakes in Ouaga, and that proved true. The chimichanga was also very good.

At the bureau were two boxes for me, one from Lorraine and one from Angie. I opened them at the transit house, and what a treat! All the things I had asked for and then some. Clothes, vacuumed packed food, a bath towel, school supplies and hair things for the kids here, the quilt Sal made for me to give to a new baby and then I found the letter from Lexi and one from the instructor of Senior Sneakers. What a roller coaster ride my emotions have been on this month! The PCVs who were present loved seeing me open my boxes from home. Especially the homemade baby quilt from Sal.

On Saturday I took a taxi to town to go to the bank, get my glasses adjusted and mail some letters. I hung out at a French patisserie for coffee and croissants while working on my journal. It was so relaxing that I stayed until 2pm when they were closing for the weekend.

A cab stopped by the street to pick me up. Later it was clear that my first mistake was not setting the price initially. There was a woman in the front and two other passengers besides me in the back. He dropped them off somewhere, and picked up two other men from Cote' d'Ivorie. I spoke with them awhile, then the driver was headed for my section of town, Zone du Bois. I asked the price, knowing with a bike it is more, and he said one mil, two hundred francs. I said “No, that is too much!” We haggled over the rate. When we got close to my drop off point, the chauffeur refused the three hundred francs I offered him. I put it on the trunk, and he wouldn't touch it. Instead he grabbed for my backpack. The two men in the back seat got out and told me I should just pay him, that it wasn't going well. I had by then figured that out too. They mediated somewhat, and I gave him another 500 francs and he sped off! We were both angry. Luckily it was on a busy street corner in plain view of lots of other people.

12-16-07

JZ called me to say “Be down at the bus station before 1pm for the bus to take us to Koudougou.” I repacked all my things, taking just enough to get by a week in the regional capitol near where I would be placed. I enlisted the aid of a worker at the transit house to help me get my bags and bike up to the Charles de Gaul Blvd. I told the driver where I was to go, set the price, and gladly gave him his money upon delivery. The only problem turned out to be that there are several Gares with buses going to Koudougou. I was at one, and JZ ended up at another. By the time we figured that out, my stuff was loaded, the bus was loading, and the driver dropped down middle seats all down the aisle between the two stationary seats and I sat there two seats from the front. However by the time all the stand up passengers boarded along the way out of town, there was no view of the front window, much less what was beyond it. We were two thirds the way there when the puppy in the box on a woman's lap near the window woke from his nap, and let out a yip. I had to laugh as she shushed him. A cute pet for someone.

I text messaged Melissa, PCV stationed at Koudougou, who met me and helped me tie my stuff onto my bike with flat rubber straps, and away we went on the ride to “Petite Seminaire Notre Dame d' Afrique”, run by French nuns. The place is probably 50 years old and quiet, serene and serves three purposes: a seminary school for boys ages 10-20; a retreat center for groups of people; and a mineral springs water nutrients business. It was set on a big piece of property near the river and with plenty of lovely old trees harboring birds, singing and flitting from one branch to another. JZ arrived in another hour and soon went to visit his mother, who resides in this town. I ate in the common dining room and tried my French on whoever came in for the meal while I was there that week.

First thing Monday morning JZ and I set my learning schedule, with a formal lesson in the morning and afternoon and an informal one too. We would go to town and interact with merchants, etc. so I could practice speaking and then I would have personal study time as well. So Monday late morning we went to town, found the new Marche' in the center of town. I priced a lot of things I will need for my home. It was fun. At lunchtime we rode to a conference center set back off the main road by the lake. I ordered arachide (peanut) sauce over rice, it was excellent.

In the afternoon, JZ brought a tape with an interview of a trainee with pretty good French. Speaking it and writing it is not the same as hearing French. So it was good to practice listening and replaying it when I didn't get it. That evening when JZ went to his mother's for dinner, I ventured into town for a restaurant. I didn't find one readily, so I asked a young couple along side the road for directions. Achille in his mid twenties showed me the way to one on the main road down by the bridge. He stayed long enough for me to order and be understood. So I ordered him a coke, and he flashed his gorgeous smile as we tried to communicate. I went home happy to have made a new friend.

On Tuesday JZ and I made questions in French that I could ask at Melissa's work site, “Santee Pour Tous L'association”. (Health for All) We rode to her site mid morning, and JZ left me to interview the managers on my own. The two young women responded to my inquiries and gave me a tour as well. There were about six other younger women in the main room, working at sewing machines and cutting fabric at a big table. They showed me lovely linens embroidered with African scenes. I bought some things for my kids. Melissa returned to work shortly, and when JZ also returned, the three of us went back to the conference center for another delicious lunch of salad, and Riz Gras (rice with tomato sauce). In the afternoon we worked on the tape some and then I studied alone, doing sentences.

12-19-07 la Fete de Tabaski (50 days after Ramadan)

This morning there was an air of festivity about the town, as this is a significant Muslim day. On the way to town I noticed evidence of mutton near several compounds being prepared for the feast this day. JZ had me prepare a paragraph for the village chef at Sala when I arrive and am introduced to him.

JZ had arranged that Melissa and he and I would go to his mother's home for lunch this day. It was far west of town past the cathedral and hospital. Melissa and I rode our bikes, while JZ rode his moto. His mother had prepared Riz Gras, chicken and pima (pepper) sauce and watermelon. We met several of his younger brothers, close in age to 30. There were other relatives there restoring an older home on the back of the lot. The workers drew their water from the well in the center of the courtyard for the masonary of homemade bricks. His mother sells bricks out front by the street to support herself and family. Although her children are grown and gone, there are grandchildren and others living there. JZ said his own family will enjoy returning to his mother's home for Xmas.

During the afternoon session, JZ said that working with me this week showed him where I struggle with the language. He asked me what I thought worked best for my learning style, and also which teaching traits helped me. He genuinely wanted to know so that as director of the language program, he can incorporate what works for seniors. He told me he instructed his staff to use patience liberally, and we noted that repetition and word association work for me. When he commented on my effort, and said “I can see you have a way of getting your communication understood, even when all the words don't come automatically”, I knew he understood. Practicing speaking French in my village will bring it along too. Peace Corps is expecting many more seniors to join he said.

After the afternoon class, I met my new friend Achille and his friend at the restaurant and we visited. It turns out the meat sandwich I ate that evening was bad. I was on the BRAT diet the next day.

We had class Thursday morning but in the afternoon, JZ had to go to town, locate the Gare from which we would leave Fri, and purchase our bus tickets. We settled our account at the mission, which has a policy of reducing the price for volunteers to stay here.

Every evening the seminarians were practicing for Christmas services, and the fullness of the hundreds of young male voices was indescribably beautiful. Several muscicians on a keyboard and on African drums accompanied the vocal symphony. I swear their voices rose right up to heaven! I was so drawn to this music, that one night I stepped into the back of the church and watched the choral director pull in the younger voices, and the deeper voices and then the entire group of singers, who were moving to the music with body and soul. What a sight!

On Friday we left the mission by five in the morning with our headlights on heading for downtown Koudougou. The streets were being cleaned by dozens of women using wisk brooms. I was impressed with how clean it looked as they moved along down the streets, puffs of dust following them.

We were loaded onto the bus and on the road by seven, and two hours later we pulled into the Gare in downtown Ouaga. After getting my gear back to the transit house and some breakfast, I went to the PC bureau where Theo gave me another test. My level remained the same, low intermediate. Thierry told me that I could choose to stay in Ouaga another week or go to my placement site with a tutor (JZ's suggestion) which would make meeting people easier for both me and them. I chose that option. Thierry also said that I would be transported the day after Xmas, as most staff were already off for the holiday.

I spent the next four days at the transit house watching movies, shopping, using the internet, and visiting with others who were coming and going for the holidays. Beth and I watched a CD Christmas movie on her laptop, a new experience for me. Beth came into Ouaga to meet her sister at the airport the next day, then they would go to her site up NW in Burkina Faso. Jeremy was meeting his sister and his parents who flew in from the states with too much luggage, which he had them pare down and leave a good share at the transit house. Jeremy lives way up north and had plans to take them hiking.

He was kind enough to go to a little store with me before dinner and practice my French there, after which he gave me tips on repeating phrases used. People here often say the correct phrase after you attempt it, so repeating it right away helps him, he said. I picked up a small fish to make for dinner along with some fresh beets. I had inventoried the kitchen and found enough ingredients to make piloff to go with it. Reminded me of other cooking challenges over the years with my big family.

On Monday Becky and Robert, also new volunteers arrived and we chatted a lot. I made an apple pie that afternoon, which the few of us at the transit house gobbled down warm. Monday I repacked my things in preparation for my move to site. I also added some things to my pile. I bought a lipico and small side table which the men strung with colored twine in a beautiful bright pattern. I got two blue plastic chairs, and some food staples. I also made a dry run to St. Francis d' Assise church six blocks away, up on Charles de Galle Blvd.

12-25-07 Christmas Day

I was early out the door, as most holidays have churches brimming over with the faithful and the occasional. I walked the six blocks and entered a church which was set in a semicircle, with musicians in the left front corner, near the crib scene and before the main altar. There were singers in uniform from a nearby school outside who filed in and filled the front section of the church, where several microphones were set up for use by soloists as well as the choral director. The mass was in French, and the songs were also sung in French. The voices of the congregation were very wonderful to add to the rich Xmas hymns. It was a lovely service and a real connection to home for me.

Afterwards I enjoyed the quiet walk to Sheila's home near the PC bureau for brunch with some staff in town and all the volunteers who happened to be at the Transit House for the day, about 6 of us. Some past volunteers, who were now married to Burkinabe' and living close attended with their families. It had a welcome “home away from home” feeling to the morning. Baby Cash and Shawn called me on Christmas, and Jodi took a few snapshots of their end of the conversation, pretty cute. I got to talk to Angie, Cliff and all 3 kids for quite awhile that evening. In fact Bintou was trying to call me at the time, and finally called on the transit house regular phone line, to discuss our trip together to Sala tomorrow. I was so happy to know she would go with me to site for a week as I settle in to my village.

African Adventure 4

11-13-07

When I had language this morning, JZ (my professor) gave me the flip charts he made to hang on my wall. Maybe I will get it by osmosis.

Dr. Claude and two PCVs presented a class on AIDS and the culture of it. She brought a 50 yr old woman, Awa whom she met at a conference, to share her story of living with Aids. When she became so fatigued that everyday activities were very hard to do, she went for medical help. When the doctor told her the results of her HIV blood test, she kept it to herself for a long time. In Africa there is a stigma when one has it, and once the word gets out, victims are shunned. Finally though she shared with her adult children, who were very supportive. They said to her “You will always be our mom and we love you.” Her life is her children and four grandchildren. She pulled out photos and showed me those precious little ones after the talk that morning.

Awa has decided that she can support other women with Aids by speaking to groups of them upon request. She demonstrated a certain shyness, so this is undoubtedly a huge sacrifice on her part. Her Rx for one month is 2500 francs. There was good discussion between the class and guest speaker. It is so easy to respect her for the courage she shows in her volunteer talks.

That late afternoon we went around our village to the local wells and conducted a questionnaire on AIDS, which lasted until dark. There were giggles from the younger participants in our survey and sometimes people answered our inquiries and some didn't. We will collate the information for the health board which will then have it for further education of the population.

When we got to the training center the next day in OHG we health trainees processed our study at each of our villages on Malaria, the knowledge, attitudes and practices within each village. There is much work that can be done in this area.

We had a cross cultural presentation on Gender and Development, with a group of young adults whom Siaka had invited to answer our questions. It was very informative regarding the cultural do's and don't(s). Many of the limits on behavior have their roots in religious and cultural practices. It also differs in the village itself vs in the densely populated towns/cities.

The SED class demonstrated building a mud stove, which is a clay barrier surrounding the fire pit, and saves on firewood, because the wind can't as easily affect the intensity of the fire. This idea will be useful in village for ourselves or to demonstrate to our neighbors. The best mixture for the clay is donkey dung and dirt mixed with water and straw. It is a hands on project. There is a picture of trainees participating in this activity. We didn't all jump right into it, but eventually some of us did.

That next day all the other Health stagiaires came to our village and Natalie's parents brought hot lunch for us. The SED students demonstrated three more projects for us to do while living here; the lost well, dehydrators and making a desert fridge. The dry well keeps standing water and drainage from collecting. The dehydrators are simple methods of preserving foods that are not year around available. And the desert fridge is a system of two clay canaries with sand between, causing the inner one to be cooler. It keeps things two or three days at most.

11-17-07

This Saturday Natalie was a little under the weather and accompanied my drive to town, and we had two blocks of language. My teacher was busy with administrative tasks, and a couple of PCVs came along. Marcos and Audrie helped me with my flashcards. They also added words I would need in village in French. Then Theo came along and helped out too. We had a little time to ride our bikes in town to shop before going back to village.

The next day, Sunday, Becky showed up around 10am to hang out. We worked on our reports a couple hours. Becky loves visiting with my host family. She found out that Abi, the eldest daughter works in OHG for the AIDS program. Amadi, my host father is pretty versed on the SIDA/AIDS national campaign, as his brother is in the Health Ministry. Orokia, my host mother brought us lunch, and we continued our lazy pattern of laying on the mat (Becky) and writing in journal (me).

The teen girls in the family were washing clothes, which led to a discussion on Orokia pulling water up from the well approximately 20-30 ft down an open well, surrounded by a log frame at the entrance. In the wood one could see the grooves from pulling water up in buckets for many years. Becky was surprised at how deep it was, and Orokia wouldn't let either of us near the edge. See pictures.

We visited gramma Awa on her front porch and met her sister, and papa's sister, Azita. They were both visiting her and everyone hopes her son, John comes next Sunday to check on Awa. Her right knee is swollen by evening almost everyday. We have been wrapping it with an ace bandage daily.

As the day neared an end, the teen girls biked back to OHG to their respective schools for the next week. Madi started the millet stalk piles on fire. What a spectacular event that was for me to see. One, two, three, up to six of them going at once, making a big circle of flames. Amadi said it was for potash, which is used in cooking beans. The fires are a magnet for the children, who love to run and giggle in the evening's twilight.

11-19-07 Monday

Patrice is my language teacher in village this week, while the others have Bintou. Patrice used the exterior wall of the health clinic to hang up the flip charts and we did exercises together. I'm beginning to think there's something about learning a new language at this point in my life. It's that parts-timers effect, the memory just ain't what it used to be.

Later in the morning the six of us went inside the clinic and talked with the Infirmier (head male nurse) and the language teachers helped us discuss vaccinations and what was needed to train a woman's group on the subject. We gathered some statistics from the RN and clinic records, we also copied from a chart hanging on the wall there, the set of vaccinations available for infants 0-11 months, and a series of shots for pregnant women to prevent TB, which also protects the infants. Natalie is a fabulous artist and quickly outlined a pregnant Burkinabe', along with infants at one, four, six, and nine months of age. This made the information both written and drawn for the under educated or the Moore' speaking pop.

At lunch, Becky's family took a turn at providing Riz Gras and that wonderful bissap drink. While Yassia, Becky's host father runs the local restaurant in Somyaga, today her host mother did the cooking.
After another block of language class with Patrice, it was time to meet with some of the leaders of the community and discuss how to debrief the information we had gathered in our Malaria and AIDS talks with the various families. The leaders from the Community Business Organization decide how best to share the information with their community. We (trainees) had a quick meeting ourselves ahead of this for logistics and task-sharing, as two of our six were ill, and it fell to the rest to pick up the slack. Everyone pitched in and actually some new ideas evolved about strategy to work with the leaders. Becky did the intro, and Lacey led a discussion on the community response to the malaria questions. Natalie and I also mentioned that the families had some facts correct, but need help with the ones that are incorrect, i. e. one can get malaria from bad water or by eating too much vegetable oil.

About that time Dr. Claude and Thierry (program director) arrived at village. Dr. Claude sat in on our discussion with the CBO members and was well received when she spoke Moore' to them. She is a very personable woman. The leaders came to a consensus that they would write down the main points we learned in Moore' (the language of most of the villagers) to share with the community. It was near dark when we concluded that gathering.

11-20-07-Tuesday

By 9am we had the visual aids for vaccinations in hand and were all set to meet with the village women. There is something akin to Hawaiian time here, they call it Burkinabe' time. The village women were all at a baptism it seems, and around 10am they gathered under the hangar in the center of the village on the mats we had put down for them. (See the pictures.) Almost everyone of them was carrying a baby on the back or at the breast. Just the audience we had in mind. They continued to arrive a few at a time until there were 40+ women gathered. Then Jean Francois, the RN and Azita, the accucheuse (midwife) came with boxes of treats for all correct answers. Our own health trainee (an RN) Lindsey talked about each disease, the side effects, and the immunization that prevents it. Natalie displayed and explained the immunization schedule with the beau drawings she sketched. Finally Nakeisha and I role played the secondary symptoms of the injections. Nakeisha cried like a baby with me as her concerned mother. Lacey did the wrap up. The language instructors shared all of it in Moore' for the women. Then came the questions from the RN and midwife, who tossed the prizes in the air toward the woman who correctly answered. The women giggled as the prizes came their way. What a successful event!

After the main French lesson that afternoon, Patrice and I played cards. We had to add each card to the previous one, say the French numbers for the total until we reached 99. That was fun!

We had a long late afternoon break (nap), because in the evening when the family members would all be home, we trainees and our language teachers and two village leaders went back to each home/compound that we had surveyed, and shared accurate information with each family about Malaria. As I was pedaling home in the dark with my little bike light, Amadi came on his motobike looking for me.

11-21-07

Yippee, it was Wednesday and we were set to go to the training center for three days and overnight too. We as a group of 34 Stagiaires were excited about preparing food for Thanksgiving and being “a family” away from home. We transported the pumpkin Awa gave me, and all the things for pie which I had gotten in the capitol and most the ingredients for vegetable lasagna, which my roommates/adopted granddaughters wanted. I had borrowed two big pots from Orokia for the pies or lasagna. Amadi helped put the oblong pumpkin in a bag with the other foods. My bike got loaded.....we were ready.

Of course we still had classes that day, language with Theo for me. Dr. Jean Luc presented a class on infectious diseases in Burkina Faso. He is very entertaining. Next the Peace Corps Volunteers who were assisting with our training gave a talk on the many, many medicinal benefits of the Moringa Tree. Last that afternoon we had our exit test on Safety and Security in BF.

My roommates biked to Chaine Avion (market in town) to get the eggs and veggies we needed to make our two dishes for Thanksgiving. Meanwhile I spoke to the chef of the kitchen for the training center, who said I could come in and use his kitchen that night after he had served dinner. We aren't the only guests there, so there is tight scheduling of the facilities. I decided to make the pie dough ahead to line the pumpkin pies with, and also to cut up the pumpkin, steam it, scoop it out of its shell and mash it until it was blended. There was still evidence of pulp, yet was the color of pumpkin back home. While it was still warm, I added the two cans of milk and the spices along with two handfuls of brown sugar cubes, which melted in the warm mix. (The sugar here is either white or brown cubes only, which don't mash!) Later when that mixture was cool, I added the half dozen beaten eggs.

Around 8pm when it came time to use the kitchen and roll out the pie dough, the chef got out a rectangular serving tray for me to roll it on, with a quart beer bottle as a rolling pin. When I tried to put the crust into the pans I brought, the chef found one old pie tin in the back corner of his cupboard, and then produced a fry pan without a handle for the second pie. Close to 9pm I bqked the pies in the gas (propane) oven, and after an hour I switched the pies on the racks in the oven. The thinner one was done in good time, but the thicker one took another half hour. It was 11pm by the time we finished.

11-22-07 Since this is an American holiday, we had morning class. The main one was “Tom and Jerry” introducing us to monitoring and evaluating our work with the community following KAP study and projects. We need to measure before and after to see if we are making a difference or if we need to change anything about how we do our work based on the villager's Knowledge, Attitudes and Practices.

Some of the trainees lobbied management and we had the afternoon off, which was a good thing since groups of 4-5 people were each preparing some dish for dinner at 6:30pm. Our little group followed Kristen over to her host family home, close to the training center, where we put our lasagna together and baked it in a gas oven on her patio. We boiled the green and white half inch noodles I found in a kettle on a propane burner setting in a canary of sorts. The girls got the veggies ready, and the two cheeses; laughing cow (a cream cheese) and mozzarella I found in Ouaga. We put all that into the pan I had brought from home, and had enough to fill a second pan.

In the midst of this I got a call from Tammi wishing me Happy Thanksgiving, and letting me know it frosted at home last night. I spent some time talking to my two grandsons, Locke and Kellen. It was fun to visit with them.

We baked the pies 45 minutes on the patio, which is bordered in sunflowers. (See pictures.) We stacked both casseroles into Christina's woven bike basket and headed back to our Thanksgiving feast. The chef had taken the two turkeys out of the oven already, and later I saw him baste them via the fire in the oven every time the turkey drippings touched the gas flame beneath. Interesting!

While the guys were carving the turkeys, folks started gathering and toasting to the occasion, esp. that we had made it this far along in training. Ashley suggested we each say what we are thankful for. After a moment, I stood up and announced that it was my prerogative as senior here to take the floor (applause). I offered that “I am thankful that at a young age I heard John Kennedy invite us to join the Peace Corps, and that I am still able to do that now!” Many remarkable things were said as each person took their turn. Linda said she was thankful I agreed to be her gramma during Peace Corps. The language teachers said they are glad to be with us and they like the energy of our class.

Finally it was time to eat and we had an amazing menu of turkey, stuffing, garlic mashed potatoes and gravy, salads (green & fruit), string beans, cooked apples, lasagna, and so many desserts, but most though the Pumpkin Pie was unreal!

Later I was set to help wash dishes with 6 other people in the one person kitchen, when I got a call from Angie. That excited me and I talked with each of her children, Lexi, Lindsay, and Luke. The day ended well as I talked with three of my five kids and five of my seven grandchildren (the others aren't talking much at least on the phone). Shawn and Jodi will have their Thanksgiving gathering on Friday when her entire family is in Seattle to meet Cash Patrick Landis. Angie is having Locke and Kellen over Friday for a play day.

On Friday I got up early to go to the little place that makes three egg omelette's with onions served on French bread. The young trainees had gone out dancing last night, so I was surprised when Christina and Stephanie also showed up for an omelette. Soon it was time for French class and JZ wanted me to go to Bintou's class as it would be good for me to hear the pronunciation and be pushed a little. Most of my village PCTs were in it. They were working on Passe' Compose' with avoir (to have) and the infinitive. Bintou had written a story about a baptism celebration, isolated the verbs, and then we studied the irregular past participles, which we just have to commit to memory. Bintou taught us how to say the story in the negative, where you put en...pas around the verb. In her second language class, Bintou brought an interesting story about two PCVs, using the past tense.

In the afternoon we had a preparation session with Theo and Patrice about AIDS/SIDA STOP. When we went to village shortly after that we met with a group of men who had ideas about who could act out a skit for Saturday, December 1, the International Aids Awareness day. Most of these men were our respective host fathers or elder brothers of the particular family. Lacey's brother, Amaroun, and Natalie's brother, Abraham, both wanted to do it. We agreed to meet again after more particulars were known.

By the time I returned to my home, Fatimata and Stephanie had arrived home for the weekend. Soon Ramata came on a scooter with a young man. She respectfully woke up her father to meet this fellow.
I observed the dating protocol first hand in BF.

As bedtime neared women started showing up in the courtyard apparently for a meeting on uniforms. But I asked Orokia if they were there to dance....she said “No, but I'll ask.” They responded they would dance after the meeting. At 11pm I watched the dance and babies bouncing on their mom's back. At midnight Orokia brought a huge pan of hot sweetened coffee and passed it out to all.

11-24-07

When the car came to get me, to my surprise Orokia and a friend came to town too with a bag of harvest crop they were selling at the marche'. The first class that day was re: cross culture. Patrice told the history of Burkina Faso and a tale about the Mossi tribe (Moore' language) and how it came about. The entire lecture was in French. Every so often another trainee would interpret it for me. Late morning was the third French proficiency test, and I had Matthurien again. He posed questions about when I travel to my site, and how that would go. He followed up with questions about my host family. After the test I got teary about the pressure of learning French.

On Sunday I texted a msg to Wayne, as it's his birthday. I miss him a lot.

Orokia and Azita went to town for the day. They must have been successful as they came home in new outfits. They brought a new dress for Zalisa and some thing for the others. It was fun to see everyone excited.

11-26-07

All the Health trainees came to our village today. I had French lesson with Bintou outside by the maternity clinic. It was Lacey's family's turn to bring lunch for the group. It was Riz Gras, top notch rice and very good sauce. They had gotten a new stack of bowls and silverware for the occasion.

After the two hour break, we convened the afternoon session with Vini and Solomon, who did a prep technical session with us for our sensibilization exercise we will all be doing at the nearby primary school in each village. The instructors showed us a drawing of a bridge over a deep gorge that displayed problems before crossing the bridge and the dangers in the water below and what is needed to get over the bridge to Good Health.. Bridge=Info to Behavior Change. They did several animations, one using our nalgene bottles (to represent babies) an effort to communicate about family planning; and another with hot peppers on hands to describe microbes and hygiene (the unseen); a song for children to sing regarding vaccinations; and finally a drawing of a house to symbolize eating a balance diet. Proteins are the foundation, carbs give energy and strength, the structure, and vitamins represent the roof, protection.

We worked on our presentations for the school children. We outlined the process, Becky would do the introduction. Natalie would present the poster she drew for vaccinations, followed by a song about them to the tune of “Frere Jacque”. Keisha and I had a short presentation on the hygiene of washing hands after toileting, before eating and when coughing or sneezing. We each had questions for the students with bon-bons for correct answers. We would end with a second song.

We went to the local primary school at 9:30am to meet the principal of the 500 students. Each class had 50 students or so. We requested that we be allowed to present to the two older grades, CM1 and CM2 in sequence. The teacher of the older students was very interactive with us and the class, asking them questions throughout, using it as a teaching moment. The next class struggled as did we. We left the songs up on the blackboard, as the students showed an interest and were singing them to us, especially my family when they came home from school that day. Even Madi the teenage boy sang the ditty several times with the other kids.

There was a sharing session between all the health trainees about the our sensibilization with the women's group in our village about vaccinations and also the presentation with the school children. The fact that we each did this stuff in our own village meant that we could learn from each other's experience in village. In fact it is a good way to pick up tips on what works and what doesn't

At my tutoring class with JZ the head of the languages, I told him that Amadi, my host father asks if I have any homework and then practices French with me at home. He was happy to hear that. Actually on several evenings Madi would get out his Anglais notebook and proudly show me all his work on learning English at school. We would review his sentences, conjugation and little stories done in Eng.

11-29-07

All the PC Volunteers participate in the AIDS education in their local assignment, not just the health sector. Because of that there is a project in the PC training when groups put on a radio program. Our group was given the task of talking about AIDS and the older generation. We as a group decided that our piece would be an interview with a senior citizen. Since all the younger trainees had host fathers in their 20s or 30s, I offered that my host father was 60, and well versed on AIDS/SIDA as he has two family members directly involved with the country's fight against it. On this morning Amadi was to meet us and prep for the radio talk on SIDA STOP! When he arrived in his grand boubou and bonnet, he immediately drew respect and awe from the group. We all went to JZ's office and began going over the questions. Dr. Claude dropped by and chatted a bit with Amadi. Dr. Claude was being interviewed by another of the groups for their piece on AIDS. Each one in our group had a question for Amadi in French. At noon Nakeisha and I took Amadi to lunch at ECLA. Some of the language teachers were nearby and also spoke with Amadi.

At 3pm we walked over to the radio station, a few blocks away, and soon it was our turn in the soundproof booth. We followed the plan and the whole thing was over in 5-6 minutes. We were all amateurs at it, but for the general public who may be listening to the program, it probably sounded real. The station recorded it and can play it again. Our best French student said that some of the rehearsed responses varied from our morning practice, but it could be we were all a bit nervous.

11-30-07

I was picked up to go to OHG. Today we have 3 exit tests: Health, X-Culture, and our fourth language test. But in the morning we were doing our presentations in French on a selected topic. I had chosen the traditional clothing in BF: “Habillement au Burkina Faso”. I had written it in English first, then translated it into French to present. “The women in village wear a pagne with shirt or they wear dresses. The women in town wear this also and in addition they wear pants. The men in village and town wear shirts and pants. The older men wear boubous and caps.

I had lined up four local models. Mariam wore a small boubou and matching top with a foulard (headwrap). Bintou showed us a skirt, a chemise and a headwrap, all in matching BF bright green and blue fabric. Her beauty made the outfit stunning. Syr wore a traditional long sleeved sport shirt with nice pants in BF 'a la mode. Last Yvette showed us a long skirt and top with a pagne. She also showed us a regal ceremonial gown with gold buttons.

Then I told the audience you may have seen my host father here yesterday, while he was at the training center. He was wearing a grand satin boubou with a cap, which the elder men wear in village and town. My presentation was well received, and I felt that was the the best I've done in any class.

At noon I went to the internet cafe, then back to study for my French test. Bintou helped me study.
My test was with Vini and felt pretty relaxed and informal. He asked about my family, the BF clothing presentation I did that afternoon. He requested I ask him two questions, so I asked him if he liked his job, and I asked him where the Catholic Church is in Ouahigouya.

When the car took us back at the end of the day, we met with our CBO and RN for rehearsal of the SIDA skit. It went well but seemed long (often the case with rehearsals). I was glad to get home and eat and wind down. But at 9pm a large group of women, friends of Orokia came to our courtyard. They carried the benches out there in the middle and soon chanting and dancing started. First the light footed little girls, Awa, Zalisa and others started to dance. The moon did not rise in the sky this night. Orokia, Minata, and I joined later, stomping and swaying to the rhythm. It continues to fascinate me how the women dance with babies on their backs. And how they can see in the pitch black night. The dancing went on and on. Exhausted, I excused myself at 11 to go to bed.

12-01-07 *SIDA STOP DAY*

This would be a big day, the teens would be home from OHG school for the SIDA activities and the village farewell celebration. We trainees and our LCF's and some of the host fathers had already decided to meet at Yassia's restaurant at noon to listen to the radio program we had made that week. When we reached there, the host mothers were busy over the fires, making preparations for the dinner they would feed us later that day. The village program was set to begin at 3pm with everyone in attendance. First we had to go to the home of the village chief (Naba Kende) home and formally invite him to the event. As we walked over there, Theo had me practice the words in French to invite him. We entered his receiving room, each of us greeting him in traditional Moore' greeting, and then sat down on mats. I invited the chief to our ceremony and he accepted. I asked permission to take a picture, which was granted. (See facebook) We agreed to send for him when the gathering was ready.

Before long, some local folks gathered and then my family teens arrived from town. I was so happy to see them: Fatimata, Ramata, Aguaro, Stephani and Mary Angela. Soon families started flowing in and a circumference of benches was set up where we and our families would sit for the event. My family arrived, as did all the other trainees' families, then the village chief came and sat in the large chair used for him. The center of the square was for the ceremony and the SIDA/AIDS skit.

When it began, Siaka, the coordinator for our home stays, explained in French and Yassia explained in Moore' to the chief and crowd (numbering in the hundreds) the gratitude we had for them welcoming us into their village to stay two months during training. The chief thanked us for coming, and said it was a good experience for his village, and while they would love us to stay, they knew BF needed us in other villages and they would kindly let us go, and wished us Godspeed.

We trainees had each prepared a few words. Lacey spoke and shared the affection we all felt for the families of Somyaga; we had become a part of their families and lived together so closely. I spoke next and said in French how much I adored my family, and the cooking (patted my tummy) and the dancing (stomped my feet) and their kindness to share their home and family with me. I ended with Moore' “Wenda Kom de Naarre” (God bring you many years of blessings). Then each of the others spoke, ending with Becky saying her words totally in Moore'. The crowd loved it!

Patrice called each family host father forward and each of us presented them with a certificate from the Peace Corps for their hospitality. After that each host mother came forward to give each of us a gift: a black, turquoise and white woven pagne. It was an emotional roller coaster! See pictures.

Soon the actors set up the center area to put on the skit. Keisha's father, Smila was dressed in costume of a Burkinabe' woman. He was hilarious with his wig, his orange fluorescent lipstick, and orange bra showing via dress unzipped in back. That piqued everyone's interest, esp every villager who knew him and the kids present were really giggling. Smila strutted, wiggled his hips, and kept raising up his boobs, eliciting more laughter each time. Oumarou, Lacey's brother played the part of the Burkinabe' fiance'. The theme of the skit was a couple who wanted to get married and request permission from their respective families. The woman wanted them to get tested for HIV, so the couple went to their fathers and then to the doctor, played by Natalie's brother Abraham. They were tested and got negative results, so then got married. Afterwards, Abraham showed a condom demonstration on a wooden model, to teach the proper method of leaving space at the tip for sperm, carefully unrolling the condom and tying it to dispose of it in the latrine. This is really village education in BF!

Pop and bissap were served to the crowd as the celebration ended. Then we trainees and our language teachers met our families at Yassia's restaurant for a dinner of barbecued chicken and spaghetti, prepared by our host mothers. I rode my bike as we went home that evening. Orokia had a pan on her head with Aziz and Awa following her. Amadi rode his moto. The day had left a warm feeling on us.

That night there was dancing in our courtyard and I realized it was the last one—and it was for me. Many women attended and each greeted me. When they chanted that evening they put my name in songs and we all laughed. Around 11 or so Orokia asked me if I had any more bon-bons for the guests. Luckily my best friend, Sally had sent several bags, which served as my thank you to the women and children there. At midnight Orokia brought out the hot coffee with sugar again. It was so fun having that last dance with all my new friends from Somyaga. Sometime that evening a pregnant woman at the dance went on a moto driven by her husband to the maternity clinic and delivered twin girls.

12-02-07 My last day at Somyaga

In the morning I started packing up my room. Orokia said she and I would bike across the village so I could say Goodbye to her mother. On the way we stopped at the maternite' and visited the new mom and twins. It was my joy to present the new babies and mother with a beautiful and colorful baby quilt Sally had sent in the mail to me last week. Inside the Maternite' on a small bed was Ruketa looking fatigued yet happy with her twin girls each wrapped in a pagne. There were 4-6 women friends in the room sitting against the wall, who all loved the quilt too. Orokia put the new babies on the quilt and with her permission, I took a few pictures of the mother and babies. When we continued on our way, Orokia's mother gave me a bag of harvested peanuts.

In the early afternoon I gathered the family around and gave them presents, games for the children, hair things for the girls, a deck of card to Madi, jewelry to the women, and a Moringa tree to Amadi. We planted it together in the corner of the front yard nearest to my room. See the pictures.

In the afternoon the plan was to meet our language teachers at the village hangar to travel on our bikes to each of our homes to bid the families farewell. We did this plus made a couple more stops, one at Anne's host family and then the two language teachers' host family compounds, and last to the tombs of the previous village chiefs, sacred grounds. By the time we were headed to my family, the last stop, it was dark out. Patrice slowed his moto for a dip in the road, as did several bikers behind him. I put on my brakes, and must have turned slightly, when Keisha ran into me from behind and down I went! I was going pretty slow, but I landed on my left side (my bad knee) and let the fellows pick me up. It hurt for awhile, but I rode home.

Orokia had fresh bissap drink and warm peanuts ready for us when we arrived at my house. We lit a kerosene lantern and gathered in front of my porch on benches. Amadi, like the other fathers had, said how much they will miss me, their trainee. He said they too learned a lot and the family all loves me, and will visit me if they can in Sala. Azita the premier wife, said that I will always have family in Burkina Faso, even after I return to the US. I will always be in their hearts. Through all these visits, Patrice translated the Moore' and shared that each family said how much we six trainees had inspired their village and they are thankful their chief agreed for us to come there. Even the infirmier, told us he learned a lot about working together from our time there. The rest of the group went on to Jean Francois' house, but I decided I couldn't go any further.

Monday morning I took a couple pictures as I bid farewell to my Somyaga family with tears in my eyes and joy in my heart.