01-July-08
I pedaled to the Sala boutique to buy bread, and stopped next door at Sonata's restaurant to visit her and her two little girls. Yes, they would like some hair things, barrettes for the girls, a comb for mom. This particular morning three women visited me for coffee, as the children played with toys on the floor. Still feeling social at midday, I went to Koutim's hut to visit with her and see the new baby in their environment. I greeted the father, Salam outside. The baby was on a mat to my left, and a small fire for cooking was by the wall on the right. I noted the new baby quilt already in use, was on the line outside drying.
The next morning we rode 15K to Sabou. This is the first chance I've had to visit Nodeere complex and pick up the bag (6 mill) the artisans made for me months ago. We watched another artist draw freehand a village woman carrying a large bowl on her head. We got an omelette sandwich while we waited for the bousse taxi going to KDG, but that taxi was broken so we waited until 10:30am when one came north from Fara. We wanted to attend the ordination of the five seminarians from this area of BF. I checked in at the mission, Notre Dame Petite Seminaire. While in KDG, I also intended to purchase the supplies for the Moringa Project: a pick, shovel, rake, watering can, as well as 500 planting bags (pots). We found all those things eventually and returned to the mission, which was packed for the weekend due to the upcoming ordination. George knew all four seminarians who were staying in the wing where I had a room. He went off to stay with his former mentor, Julien.
Other volunteers, Ryan and Sonia were also staying at the mission and we met them the next day at the post internet. We lunched across the street at Jackson's with them and Melissa, Kelly and Zach. We celebrated Sonia's birthday. She gave me Hearth model papers to copy for my project, while George and Ryan talked about Moringa over lunch.
After leaving the group we went to Achille's work to visit him. He had painted me a canvas drawing of “docteur traditionnel” in BF depicting local health problems. Achille was very happy to see me. I sat and watched him paint team numbers for soccer shirts. Interesting! After he got off work we bought pork to make sandwiches and stopped at the internet cafe to look at pictures I had posted. They rode down the hill to the mission with me to assure my safety, then headed for their own places.
04-July-08
By midmorning we three were biking to visit Achille's mother, Cecile who was cooking at the Lycee kitchen in KDG for the students from out of town, who were there to test for BAC. Two young women were assisting her with preparing vegetables and meat for the noon meal, which was readied on the open fire in a huge pot near the kitchen entrance. (See photo.) We offered her condolences for her recent loss, Achille's father.
We found Achille's brother, Seraphin at his home. We chatted about his recent month long trip to France and his timely return which allowed him to spend the evening with his father before he died. He showed us pictures of France on his hand held computer. Seraphin is very likable and interested in all conversations too. He invited us to lunch across town at a buvette near the Cathedral. He wanted us to moto together but I declined and we biked there instead. We talked about the Moringa Project in village that we are involved with. As we went back towards town, storm clouds were gathering. We spent the next two hours at the internet while it poured outside. Next I went back home for a nap, and Achille went to his house to shower. Later in the evening we ate a peanut butter and avocado sandwich and I found music discs on my computer we listened to. By 10pm I was in bed resting for the jour l'ordination the next morning.
05-July-08 L'ordination
Four of us rode our bikes to the Burkina Parish in KDG, where the ordination service was set up outside with the altar up on the porch and canopes overhead for the rains that threatened. The monsignor of Burkina Faso officiated and spoke in three languages, French, Moore' and Garounsi. Parents were on either side of the altar, and the front sections were reserved for choirs, musicians, and dancers. The procession began with dancers, the entourage surrounding the monsignor, then many seminarians, and finally the five expectant priests. During their vows they lay prostate in front of the altar. The celebration of priestly vows is a solemn and beautiful ceremony, lasting a long time but unique among the rituals of the Catholic Church. (See photos.)
Back at the Petite Seminaire Notre Dame there was a formal reception with a sit down meal for the new priests and their families, who were all lodged there for the weekend. In another building there was a potluck meal for all the visitors and friends of the new priests. As we entered that dining hall a huge pot of Riz Gras was brought in and we were able to partake of that among other quickly disappearing choices and some drinks. We took the taxi brousse back across to Sabou, where I was spending the night with the sisters at the CREN. By the time I biked the 2-3K to their convent it was dark except for the moonlight. I found the first gate, and the workers helped direct me to the second gate for entrance to the CREN and the convent in the back. The sisters were expecting me and had set out a dinner plate for me with the variety of foods they had for their dinner. After that we piled in the car and went back into Sabou to St. Luke's Parish, where the congregation was doing skits and dancing in anticipation of the premiere mass tomorrow of Father Achille, the first young man from their parish to become a priest.
06-July-08
After a quick breakfast, the sisters and I drove to church for the special occasion of the Premiere Mass for Father Achille. We sat together near the left side of the altar, where other medical nuns were already alongside some of the family members who came to this first Mass. As the new priest entered in the grand procession, it was evident that the parish was so proud and happy with this event. The dancers and singers repeating some of the same music of the preceding day, were exquisite. Sr. Margaret joined the French choir to sing. Sr. Mary lent me her French missile to follow along with the mass. The church was all tidied up and a fresh new painting of a chalice hung on the wall, compliments of Fr. Jacques. Georges' brother, Maxime also a seminarian organized the liturgy and timing of all the participants in his quiet, respectful manner. At the consecration the liturgy took on a fresh and personal meaning with Fr. Achille's first time changing the bread and wine into the body and blood of Jesus. Long lines formed for communion. After the final blessing many representatives from the community gave short speeches and donated gifts to the new priest. The highlight was when the parish presented him (by driving it into the church) with a new moto for his work. The finale' was everyone in procession dancing down the main aisle of the church and back up either side. As the nuns joined in, they took me along and we clapped and chanted our way around the church. (See photos.) Afterwards there were many photos taken and a lunch was served at the rectory. In the late afternoon I biked the 15K back to Sala and home, a welcome sight. Minata's adult children, Sonata and Madi were also home from their respective schools for the summer break.
This week Shawn called to say Cash is crawling on all fours and is trying to walk around things. They are packing for six weeks in Guatemala, and staying at a friend's hostel there. They are looking forward to some “family time”, just the three of them. Shawn sent me a copy of the July/August “Sculpture Magazine” with the cover picture and an eight page spread of his double negative art project. I am so proud of him.
Later in the week Wed. evening after my language lesson with Georges and when my village counterpart, Karim was over, we walked to the chef's compound and requested permission to do a sensibilisation on July 18, after planting season is over, if it doesn't rain. Chef Ouedraogo Adama wants us to do the three main quartiers of Sala; Weeg Yiri, Ipala, and Ganssen.
On Thursday Gansonre was just starting to weigh babies at the maternite' when I arrived to help out. (See photo.) There were many people because he is passing out mosquitaires to the mothers of babies and pregnant women, the two most vulnerable groups to get Malaria. Baby weighing is my favorite activity of the week. I spent considerable time working on the French translation of my Moringa sensibilisation during the week.
I spoke to Lorraine and Heather both on the phone during the week. Heather has begun her shots in order to come and visit me. She's had Indigo to a couple different vets to assess what's best for her, sounds like both knees are blown out. Arthritis in animals has to be pretty uncomfortable, just like for us humans. Lorraine's family has been traveling and she and Dave have been working around their place. She's wearing glasses exclusively now. Dave got on the phone to recap my life here and I was rolling in laughter, but it's obvious he follows my blogs.
On Sunday Kiemtore' Henri led the prayer service at church. Jean Baptiste had gone to Nabatogo. Marie led the choir because the new choral director, Matthias was not there. Turns out it is Henri's anniversaire this date, so there will be a party for him at the house this evening and Martine had come from Nabatogo to help celebrate her father's birthday.
I visited the Assembly of God church at noon only to discover that the service finishes at that time. So I made plans to return soon. Madame Kiemde' came up to me then and invited me to her home for a lunch of haricot leaf balls with oil and mango drink. Her girls and she and I sang English, French and Moore' hymns and had fun doing it.
At the agreed hour I met Georges to follow him to his parent's home for the birthday celebration. Friends and family were there. There was a boom box playing Moore' hymns on cassettes, as people danced around the fire, with the guys drumming to the beat of the music. Food and drink was plentiful as everyone was having a good time.
15 July 08
Today Fatimata and Ramata, sisters from my OHG host family arrived in the evening to visit me in Sala. This is a major trip in an unfamiliar part of the country for them. They are staying a week, so my neighbor Madi went on my bike to meet them at the taxi brousse place, after it had been raining all afternoon. As he is close to their ages and also a student, they all became fast friends. Amade' had told me his daughters will come for a visit after their BAC tests, so that is now!
It was a good visit, they enjoyed themselves in Sala, visiting everyone in my quartier, meeting the staff at CSPS, meeting the chef and seeing the sites: the elementary school, both barrages and the Thyou marche'. We visited a long time about the family in Somyaga, and looked at pictures of everyone. They shared that Orokia misses me, and she and Amade' hope to visit too before harvest is finished.
On Thursday I took Fatimata and Ramata to baby weighing with me at the maternite' and there came Salamata (from the restaurant) with her brand new baby girl. She was very happy to see me, as I was her. I had Gansonre tell her I have a baby quilt for her, and she came the next morning to get it. One woman who came in for prenatal visit had a condition where the baby was developing outside the uterus. Gansonre let me observe her belly as he confirmed the problem and gave her a referral to KDG for special care at the hospital there.
Early Friday was the first sensibilisation regarding Moringa Tree and it's nutritional benefits. The chef had said it would be held down by the main road in a hangar in Sala, so Karim, Georges and I along with Fatimata and Ramata took my flip chart describing the vitamins and nutrients in the leaves down there. We were set to do the presentation, Karim with a report on the Moringa conference we both attended and Georges to translate my French into Moore' for the villagers. We had a light turnout, but it was well received and a good practice for the next ones. Karim also described that we will start a project to grow Moringa trees to plant in and around Sala. The people seem to know Moringa but without all the details on the nutritional value. They were interested and want the chance to grow it. Luckily the rains held off until after the sensibilisation.
The three students, Madi, Fatimata, and Ramata got out their BAC study guides and were comparing notes on taking the test recently. It is a very involved process, and includes much detail regarding specific areas of study. Students here in Burkina Faso are very committed to education with the hope of furthering their choices in life. In the late afternoon Madi wanted to show Fatimata and Ramata more of the Sala barrage, so the four of us walked clear around it, stopping along the way to explore the gardens and the dike, etc. It took about two hours and we ended up in Thyou on the other end of the trek. Surprising how big it is! (See photos.) We finished that day up with a long game of Uno, which they really liked.
On Sunday while I was at church, I observed a young man nearby with holes in either flip-flop and afterwards I asked him to come by my house as I wanted to give him a new pair that my friends had sent from America. We stopped by the marche' to get some things and lunch before going home. Some folks from the church in Sabou were at the morning service, so we asked them to take some Moringa seeds back for the nuns there as a thank you for my lodging the past weekend. The sisters are leaving in a couple days for a month in Italy for the worldwide 25 year anniversary celebration of their order. I hoped they would plant them before leaving Burkina Faso.
In the afternoon I worked on translating student letters into English from the school in Zao. I want to mail them when I'm in Ouaga next week. Also in the afternoon we washed Moringa leaves donated by Pascaline, so I could prepare Kopto for dinner. It is made with peanut butter, tomatoes, onions, garlic, oil and seasoning. It is very tasty and nutritious too.
Monday morning early we three were packed and ready for the return trip to Ouaga, where the girls would catch a bus on to OHG and home. We had help getting to the Shell station to catch the ride. The girls and I talked a lot on the way to the capital. Fatimata wrote me a note saying, “Many African people like you. You need to stay in Africa. You give gifts to the children, women and men. It is good.” When we got to town and asked directions to the bus station, the girls shared with me that they were out of money. They were timid to say that, and borrowed 5 mille to return home. It was difficult to part, but joyous to have had the visit at the same time.
My trip into Ouaga included a Physical Therapy appt to work on strengthening my muscles since my accident in April. They use ultra sound and heat packs and it seems to work well. I shopped at the Artisan's Village for gifts to send home. I also got to visit with other volunteers in town and eat a couple meals out in nice restaurants. We had a taco feed one evening orchestrated by Courtney, an excellent cook and a volunteer from South Carolina. I also chatted with Josh, who recently became engaged, he asked what I thought was the secret to a good marriage. My answer: keep a sense of humor, and talk to each other lots, and be interested in your partners likes and activities. We all went to a good-bye luncheon for Helen, who has just finished her service and is returning to the US. She agreed to take a pkg to mail for me. Helen is going to start her Master's Program at Tuft's University in Boston soon after she gets back.
Lindsey was in town with her family from USA and we had a good visit. She recommends the bed and breakfast “Karite' Bleu”, down the street from the Transit House for out of towners. The country director asked me to dine with Annette, a new staggiere who is returning home to be with her mother during major surgery. She is sad to part. On Friday I packed up to return to village.
"Mefloquine-my antidote for malaria"
As I visit the health clinic in my village the number one health condition that brings people of all ages for help is malaria, both simple and grave. If villagers come in with early symptoms the IV drip with antibiotics, vitamins and blood boosters works well and rapidly. Time precludes waiting for test results in Africa. All people with symptoms are treated for malaria as a precaution.
If patients come in later, the symptoms are grave and harder to resolve. The fever and all over body aches progress in a short time to vomiting and delirium and kidney failure. It's faster with children.
The Peace Corps requires its volunteers to take regular prophylaxis-usually Mefloquine weekly. Even if the female mosquito, Anopheles, bites one, the antidote interrupts the venom traveling to one's liver. The reputation of Mefloquine is that it can make some people crazy, which I think is overstated. The drug is also known to make one's dreams very intense, which I inferred meant violent. Surprisingly, dreams are "vivid" and seem real, but are quite pleasant. The problem is they drift away quickly, so one can't remember, but the lingering sense is positive. "Pas de probleme".
***25 July 2008
Friday evening there was a big BAC feast in Thyou at the home of Jean honoring honoring their son's graduation from the university with a degree in public administration. There were lots of family and friends, many from our church, exquisite food, drinks, microphoned speeches in French and Moore', music and dancing. I was happy to experience this family event shared with the community.
Saturday
I had visitors for tea and coffee early next morning when I opened my door. Issaka, in his forty's and who is diabetic, shared his medical file with me and explained that he is able to handle that by diet at this point, and wondered if it will always be with him. He also takes pills. Issaka lives most of the time with his family in Cote D' Ivoire, and visits his family in Sala every few months. He always brings gifts, bikes, clothes etc. Abdoulaye blew up the soccer ball I had sent from USA and the neighbor boys love playing with it. I had time to read more of “Power of One”, set in Africa.
I got my house in order for company, Becky and Christina. In the afternoon Christina text me that the axle broke on their vehicle and they waited all day for another one to get there and installed. They arrived from KDG to Sabou right before dusk. I biked there to meet them. Linda was on the same transport heading south to Bobo area. They were having fun conversing with other guys on the transport, giving them fictitious info. It took 20 minutes for the workers to get her bike off the top of the vehicle and her bags attached to it. We left in the dark slowly making our way to village down a challenging road filled with ruts from the recent rains. No moon to guide us.
When we got past Thyou, George and Laurentine were waiting for us at the cell tell place and had brought dinner for our arrival. We all continued on to my house. The pate d'arachite sauce over rice was delicious! Exhausted we retired for the night.
The next day we went over to the clinic to meet the major and other med staff and take the tour. There were 4-5 patients with malaria getting treatment. There is a new accoucheuse, Leah. I showed Christina the little shops in Sala and we rode out to the barrage. I lost my sense of direction and soon we were heading for Bolo. I realized my mistake and it took a while to return, but the villagers we asked helped redirect us. We fixed tuna sandwiches, then pedaled to Thyou to meet with Becky who bike from Sabou that afternoon. We met up there and relaxed at the buvette for a drink. We visited Garrett while in Thyou, so the PCVs could see his surroundings. We met a man Saidou Kabre' who is a successful businessman in Ouaga, and is back here to thank the group of 6 Swiss youth volunteers who are building a bibliography and chicken coup near there.
Another tour of meeting the major and visiting the clinic happened for Becky's sake. The major had moved into his new home by the CSPS while I had been gone last week, and he visited with us out front. We stopped by the chef's compound on the way home. He was happy to meet my visitors and teased Christina about staying to be another wife for him. We arrived home to more company, who ate with us and we were all set to play Uno when a storm started brewing. So people went home and we readied for the night. It is so fun to have fellow PCVs visit me in Sala!
The following morning Christina took the taxi at Thyou back to Ouaga, and later Becky took one from Sala back there. It was a short but sweet visit and we all promised to make it happen again.
Karim showed me where the Ipala quartier is, which is a long way west of Sala on a path filled with last night's rain. We returned via the CSPS and weighed 3 babies at the maternite' with the new accoucheuse.
In the afternoon I made my usual trip to the marche' for vegetables and fruits, etc. Then I had my language lesson and practiced the Moringa presentation again. George told me there was a murder in Bolo last Friday night and a man was locked up in Sabou regarding that. He knew the victim's brother from our church.
29 July 2008
We gathered at my place to pedal to Ipala quartier for sensibilisation on benefits of Moringa Tree. We have visual aids including pruning a branch off the M tree at the maternite' to use for our talk. The sous-chef was Ouedraogo Boureima, Karim's father. Women gathered numbering 30-40 and the men numbered 20. A few children were present. The talk was well received and we spent some time on a question about insects and Moringa. We debriefed with the major afterwards.
30 July 2008
Garrett went to Ouaga today and brought back a big envelope from Shawn, his Double Negative project in southern Nevada was featured in the current issue of “Sculpture” magazine, with a great photo on the cover and 8 page article. Wow! I couldn't be prouder. Lorraine called to tell me how great the article was too.
I sat on the porch and watched a storm coming in the distance. Before the COGES meeting in the late afternoon, Georges came to review the summary of my activities in a report I prepared for it. I was allowed time at the end to give a short recap. At the end of the meeting, Gansonre passed out moustiquairres to all the members there. It is part of the big campaign going on now to distribute them to all pregnant women and mothers with babies.
The next day was Thursday, which means baby weighing in village. The turnout was tremendous because word had gotten around that the mosquitairres would be given out. So the maternite' was overflowing with women and babies, some who hadn't been in in a year for it, were there today. It was also a chance to update vaccinations that were overdue on some babies too. I would guess I weighed over 40 babies that morning, many from my own quartier. I want to ask my language teacher to help me learn how to tell the mothers in Moore' the weight of their babies.
I went to the marche' in the afternoon and returned home via the Thyou barrage, where George washed my bike in the rippling stream nearby. See photos.
Garrett texted me that the Swiss were having a celebration the next afternoon and we were invited to attend.
Fire
Before dawn Burkina women light a fire with small dry weeds and twigs. Gradually they add stems and sticks, progressing to large limbs and thick pieces of dry wood. Burkinabe' regulate the heat by the size of the fuel and the action of pulling branches in or out of the fire. Fires are made both outside and inside next to the walls of the house. Some houses have a separate building exclusively for cuisine preparation, somewhat of a luxury here.
Usually there are three big stones spaced in a triangle around the heat source, a tripod of sorts to balance the marmite (pot) on. This kettle has a rounded bottom. Depending on the cuisine the fire can be flaming, smoldering or white hot. Sometimes a woman has two fires of different size for cuisine side by side, much like two burners on a stove. I have seen peanuts in shells put in the fire, then removed by hand w/o burning the person.
Little kids light a pile of straw in the winter in the field and huddle around the heat to warm themselves. People carry burning embers to share and ignite other fires. When the villagers want to harvest honey from way up in the trunks of big trees, men climb into the trees with a blow torch and the fire sends the bees away while they harvest the honey.
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Sunday, August 17, 2008
African Adventure 11
“Le Vent” (wind)
The wind is welcome to cool the body and inform one about the weather changes coming. It can be quiet and uncannily calm, and then the wind rapidly converges near the earth to announce rain is imminent. And it comes, most often suddenly!
One day I was walking to the market and behind me dark clouds were gathering—the wind came and people nearby shouted, “La pluie!” (the rain) meaning take cover! I glanced over my shoulder to see the wind whipping up very fast. I stood next to a clay wall (insufficient cover), so I made a B-line for a hangar, about a block away. I asked the family who encouraged me to enter. But by then the rain was coming in horizontally. Two shopkeepers observing this activity ran to the hangar and invited me into their shop, protected on all sides. People gathered there visited and passed the time together under cover. In an hour the intense rains subsided, water running in streams on paths, roads, pooling in lower spots. Instinctively Burkinabe' know the storm is finished and commence their previous activities.
Another day I heard the wind nearby and went outside to see what was happening. The sound was a whirlwind, a spiral of dust and debris going across the field in front of my house and heading towards the chef's compound. It looked to be a 25' column that got diffused by a half dozen old trees in its path. In this area of farming one can see the effects of the wind from one side of the horizon to the other.
On a very still hot day (100 degrees) I get on my bike and as I gain speed I am reminded that the air flows around moving things in a most refreshing way. I close my eyes and make a mental note of this welcome brief relief from the heat.
After sundown, when the temperature is still high, I stand at the north edge of my veranda and leaning over to face west, I can catch the beginning of the evening breeze that cools the African land here. I thank God again for the air.
01 June 08
This Sunday we pedaled 6K west of Thyou to Mass in the small village of Goumogo. After riding uphill out of Thyou, the land levels out for a long distance. Lots of women were in the fields planting. Many people were on foot going to the petite hangar at Goumogo for the service. Following the mass, the priest blessed the vat of water, with the eucharist minister putting salt in the shape of a cross onto the water. People filled their containers with “holy water”. Then the priest and the congregation walked over to the new home of the eucharist minister and blessed the structure. The finale' was drumming and dancing to celebrate the beginning of planting season.
02 June 08
This day we biked into la brousse (the bush) 9K to Bolo to give a presentation to the people. The health liaison in village met us at the marche' and Babou said the people will come in from the fields at noon and there will be an audience for us. I spoke in French requesting the people to help determine their main health problem. My language teacher translated my words into Moore' for them. The headmaster from the elementary school came for the talk and when we divided the people into two large groups he took one and Georges and Babou took the other. Much discussion took place before the voting on the principal health problem in their village. Malaria (palu) was named the number one health concern. After the wrap up and passing out cookies and water, the liaisons got us wonderful pork to eat with pima (hot sauce). We stopped by the water pump to refill our water jugs before biking back. Then we rested at a picturesque spot near the million year old boulders and decades old trees growing in the crevices.
I researched for the causerie (talk) at Dana on Wednesday regarding “Maladie de L'eau” (sickness from bad water). I text Dr. Claude for ideas and illness information on the topic. She responded quickly and it helped me get ready. Before our conversation ended she let me know that following my letter of interest I will be the health volunteer going to the Moringa Tree Conference in OHG mid-June. I am happy.
04 June 08
We prepared for our presentation in Dana, stopped by the clinic and chatted with the major and head nurse about Maladie de L'eau and they agreed it was a good idea to link it to hygiene, a talk I have given before. An hour later Garrett, Georges and I arrived in Dana, where we visited the school first. The headmaster Maiga Ousseine and two teachers sat on the veranda with us as all the students looked on. I had a big bag of school supplies sent to me by Jan Myers and Dafna Margalit. The director said they would give them out as prizes at the end of the school year July 10. See pictures. They brought a crippled boy to us and asked if I would inquire about resources for him in the capitol next time I go there. Seni is 9 years old and has been handicapped since birth below his right knee. He can't walk on that leg, so he hops on one foot. The school was pleased with our visit and invited us back anytime.
When we got to the marche' in Dana and met with the health liaisons, Babou and Bitiou, they said they did not have enough notice to inform the people in time for the presentation. And the villagers are in the fields planting. So we agreed to come back in 9 days.
The next day was baby weighing and I helped the nurse Gansonre with this. He does a cursory health check on the babies between the weighing and vaccinations. He checked one baby who had air in the stomach from latching onto the nipple insufficiently. He asked me to help communicate with the mother about this issue, so I got out my La Leche book, copied the pictures showing how to stimulate the baby's mouth to open wide, put the nipple way into the mouth and position the baby close to the mother. This mom was grateful and took the pictures home with her.
Later I made a chart to explain to the COGES my activities for the last two months in village, esp. the presentations with the villages on health issues and what they said were their main problems, and the follow up talks that have happened and are planned to.
07 June 08
We got the taxi brousse to Nabadago to visit Georges’ sister Martine and husband Marcel and family. We will spend the day at the big marche' there too. It is on the main route to Ouaga, and a very busy place. We walked a distance from the town to their home and visited the family there. We saw the original homestead of the Kiemtore' family. The land here is flat, very green and with the blue sky, it is pleasant as far as the eye can see. We walked through several fields planted in millet and arachide and coming up nicely. Marcel was using his slingshot (lancefier) to scare goats out of the fields. Martine makes local beer for the marche' and had already taker her bidon there for the day. When she returned we all walked to the marche', strolled around, and after several hours we were famished. We found pork for sandwiches and the four of us picked a quiet place to eat them. In the late afternoon we caught the transport back home to Thyou. It was a fun day.
Sunday afternoon I rode to Thyou to charge my phone at the station, and chatted with the guy there, when Madame Kiemti came over to say hi. She invited me to her home and heated up to’ and sauce with fish in it. She cut up a large mango for dessert. Her daughters, Jedidiah and Alie were there engrossed in playing with their new puppy. We looked at the family photo album and discussed friends they have made in other countries, some of the French friends were in the album. Ms. Kiemti's husband runs the local Sodigaz store, selling propane. She sent me home with a dozen pintard eggs.
This week I spoke to the major and Ouedraogo Karim, my counterpart about the Moringa Conference in OHG mid-June and it is all set, and quite exciting to be connecting with an inspired group from five countries in West Africa as we try and tackle the malnutrition problem this way.
10 June 08
I had to go to the capitol for the dentist, Pablo Rojas, to set my new crown in place the next day. It was made in France and fit perfectly. They sent me home with antibiotics and care products.
I had a fun time at the Artisan's Village which houses many, many shops with handcrafted items by the local artists here in Ouaga. I could spend my whole living allowance on gifts and nice things to buy. Lucky I don't live in the capitol. I got boxes together for Lexi and Jodi who both had birthdays recently. Andrea will mail them when she goes to America next week.
While in town and next door to the PCB I visited Handicapped International Agency, who gave me a referral for the crippled boy from Dana, so I can take that info back to them. Apparently there won't be any fees for the service because it is provided by a government service.
The evening of June 11 twenty of us celebrated Keisha's birthday with her. We met at Vita's for dinner and Jimmy's for dancing. Keisha had made a birthday hat to wear, sort of a crown. It set the tone. Everyone had a good time. The next day I returned to village, happy with results of my trip to Ouaga.
13 June 08
We rode to Dana school with the resource info for the little boy Seni from “Centre D'appareillge Orthopeolique” de Burkina. They seemed happy with that. We got to the market place mid-morning and waited until midday for a crowd to gather for the causerie regarding Maladie de L'eau. I gave info in French, Georges translated into Moore' and Babou translated into Garoussi for the people. There was much discussion around the hygiene poster I had made regarding the issue of breastfeeding only, for one year, and the women saying they are pregnant by the time the baby is less than 6 months old. There's definitely room for a family planning talk here. The hand washing demo was also of interest to the villagers. I demonstrated it, then a woman volunteered to do it and finally a child of maybe 8 years and everyone had a chuckle with us. They seemed pleased with the presentation.
Late that day we were able to get to the marche' in Thyou before it closed and buy my vegetables.
On Saturday I wanted to clean my bedroom thoroughly because there had been mice in there. I gave it a spring cleaning. I was also leaving Sunday for OHG and the Moringa Conference for most of the week. I spent the better part of the day getting my house and packing in order. The major is driving Karim and I to Sabou in the morning to catch the bus to OHG. That is a relief because normally transportation on Sunday is minimal in village.
“L'eclair” (lightning)
The horizon is visible full circle here in the Africa village, no tall trees or buildings block the view. I look across the horizon in the distance above the canopied trees and notice lightning pulsating behind them, like a glorious climax to a Broadway musical. The entire breadth of the scene, maybe 180 degrees to 360 is spectacularly bright as it lights up the background at once.
Then the rains commence, a huge deluge but after an hour, a steady more gentle downpour. The symphony of lightning on the edges adds an excitement to every storm. My eye is drawn to the sky overhead where a jagged lightning bolt rips, followed in seconds by the roar of thunder. The extreme brightness of the lightning confuses my mind with daylight during this night storm.
Like headlights coming at you over a hill, sometimes the lightning courses across the sky horizontally in giant fingers extending their reach to the far corners. Spots of lightning silhouette the African grain huts in the foreground, as well as the grand old tees in the background.
The thunder turns to rumbles as the storm moves away and the wind inevitably pushes the clouds, thus the humidity escapes for now. And the cycle continues...
Continued
15 June 08
I found Salam in his quartier and explained what the major recommended for his eye problem, which is to go to KDG to the eye clinic at the hospital for antibiotic. He seemed to know that already. He offered us dolo and we met visitors, one of them his daughter. They were sitting near the place of sacrifice (chicken). I was later advised to stay a respectful distance from the sacrifice, which the men handle.
On Sunday the major drove Karim and I the 15K to Sabou where we caught the Staff bus at 10:30 and were in OUA within an hour. Rapid! As we hailed a cab, Babette, an experienced volunteer from the east coast came over and said she has a cab going to the transit house and would we like to join her. That was great!
We hung out a couple hours there until Doug Teschner, the PC country director for Burkina Faso came for us. Also traveling to OHG were his wife, Marty and the GEED director, Zallia. We had a good visit en route. Mr. Teschner was scheduled to greet the new stagierres who were in turn meeting their host families that day. The director asked me to say a few words to the new prospective volunteers. I told them that eight months ago I was doing what they are doing today, and the link to BF culture is smoothed so much by the host families for we Americans. I shared with them that my host family, whom I came to love, will arrive shortly to visit me and I am excited.
I talked about JFK being my inspiration some 40 plus years ago. I talked about our families back home supporting us, in my case it is my children. In their case it is their parents. I said “By being here, you are already giving to the people of Burkina Faso. It will only get better.”
That week Karim and I with the BF group spent three intense days with volunteers and counterparts from four other countries, Benin, Ghana, Niger and Togo. We learned that many things are going on in their countries with Moringa, as they have been involved with their projects up to ten years now and BF is really just getting started. The workshop was conducted in both French and English. There was a lot of energy and excitement about the value of Moringa tree for Africa. We all believe the vitamins, minerals, and nutrients in its leaves, roots and trunk can change malnutrition in the world. Our hope is to develop a Moringa manual for volunteers and counterparts to use in country. Additionally we hope to come up with the ideal training model along with ideas for community involvement to aid all those people interested in Moringa development in West Africa. Niger made Moringa recipes that we all tasted on the last day. One countryman sold seeds, so we could get started back in village.
I had a chance to visit my host family, Amade' and Orokia during this conference, as well as two of the chidren, Fatimata and Ramata. The next day I was excited that Azita and Amade' were in town on the moto when I walked back to ECLA, so I got to see her too. The girls will come for a visit to Sala after they finish their BAC test later this month.
Back in village, Karim and I debriefed with the major regarding the Moringa Conference and discussed our hopes for a project in Sala. We have a list of things to get in KDG for the project. We also met with the village chief and the forestry director, Budha Mohammed to discuss our ideas amd information. We will look in the marche' Sunday in Thyou and start pricing items we need.
22 June 08 Sunday
The hangar at church was packed for the mass today. They nearly ran out of hosts at communion. Georges led the choral group and they had a practice session afterwards for the anniversary of Jean Baptiste which will be Tuesday morning. I was personally invited to come.
A bunch of us went to the marche' in Thyou. I shopped for vegetables and fruits, then took my l'ordination 2008 material to the tailor for a dress to be made. I met with Karim to look at the things we may need for the Moringa project, and then we ate sandwiches at the market. Later in the afternoon I received a call from Mdm Kiemde' who was at my house for a visit, so I scurried home. I served tea and teriyaki beef jerky to Mdm Kiemde' and Veronica, the teacher from Thyou who were both there. Veronica said there is a Moringa tree in the schoolyard, which I will visit tomorrow.
The next day we found the tree, which was bare at the moment. But we discovered that Ouedraogo Pascaline has a large fenced compound with lots of Moringa trees of various ages. She is willing to give us leaves and seedpods. She also shared a bucket of mangoes with us.
That evening the sky clouded up and soon lightning burst out overhead. It was a fantastic show!
24 June 08
There were two priests to say mass for Jean Baptiste's anniversary. The choral group did an outstanding job under Georges direction and he sang a solo, all a tribute to Jean Baptiste. After the service I was led over to the hangar where the dignitaries were being served a meal. Meanwhile the drumming and dancing began in the area behind the church hangar. It was a fun time for all.
In the late afternoon the causerie planned for my quartiers got cancelled when the chef came and said the people are still in the fields. Re-scheduling has been a regular visitor to my work lately. It rained all the next day.
26 June 08
I went to the maternite' for baby weighing this morning. I got to do one baby with Philippe, RN, who told me that twins were born overnight to a couple from Bolo. I visited them and gave them a baby quilt and showed the mother Ali the LLL book pictures on positions for holding twins for nursing. I managed to take a photo.
After my language lesson that day, two headmasters arrived at my house, one from Zao and the other from Salou. Kuba Bonaybi brought the letters from his school's students, and I gave both men supplies for their respective schools. Ky Simplice wants reading books for his school. I can send the letters after translating them into English, when I go to KDG next week.
On Friday I rode down to the barrage in Sala and watched two boys using nets they circled and threw into the water. The barrage is filling up again. See photo. The rains are also bringing out red velvet bugs that are scattered around the ground.
On Saturday I checked in with the tailor about my dress she is making. It is not finished, so I will come back another day before we go to KDG. Bazile and his wife were slated to come to my house.
to play Uno this day, but there is a big funeral in Thyou and they will reschedule.
29 June 08 Sunday
I was getting ready for church when Kotim carrying her new baby girl arrived for a visit. Minata had told her I had a gift for her, the "Wild Roses" quilt that Sally made. When I discoveed that this baby was Kotim's ninth child, I shared with her that the quilter, Sally also has nine children. Kotim was radiant and she looked in good health after three days having given birth. This was meant to be. She stayed for coffee and photos.
I pedaled to the mass celebrating the feast of St. Irene' the patron of our church in Thyou. George led the choral group and said the readings plus talked after mass, as did others about the new church under construction. After mass we went to the marche', then to the home of an older man, Irene', whose family had a feast for his anniversary. I had danced with Awa his femme at the feast for Jean Baptiste. I like her a lot, as she reminds me of my mother, in her zest for life. I took a picture of the couple too and the muscians preparing for the dance.
George went home to check on his pintards, who were getting out somehow. We didn't stay at the birthday celebration long.
We went home to prepare our summary of the Moringa Conference to present at the COGES meeting tomorrow. Karim was there waiting and we all worked a couple hours on it. The guys want me to make Kopto (Moringa recipe) for the meeting tomorrow.
30 June 08
We went to Pascaline's house to harvest enough Moringa leaves to make Kopto in the afternoon. She had the Kiim tree, used for insect control. The meeting began when a quorum was there, plus Philippe. Karim said his part in Moore', I said my part in French with George translating it into Moore'. I also gave them a chart of my activities over the last month. We ate the Kopto until it was all gone. It was a big hit!
Cultivateur (farmer)
Burkina Faso is principally a farming country. In May the people start preparing the fields. Early in the mornings (6am) the villagers leave with a charret (wagon) full of manure and compost, dabas (diggers), rakes, water jugs, and supplies for the day. Wood and debris are removed from the fields and the work of turning the soil by hand begins.
In June (start of the rainy season) planting begins. Most farmers use a wide three tine rake to mark the rows to seed. Then everyone plants graine (seeds). A chop at the row with the daba (hoe) lifts enough soil for one to deposit a few seeds, i.e. 6 millet and 1 haricot (bean), or a couple arachide (peanuts) or a few gumbo (okra), maise (corn) and petit mill (rouge). Fields of rice are planted wherever there will be standing water.
Africans are bent over from the waist all day in the fields. Their hands toughen with callouses. They are barefoot. They work in family fields in family groups and sometimes in long lines, people working a field together to aid one another. This activity is also a social occasion, exhibited by voices calling out across the way to the next field. They laugh together, sing together and eat together in the fields. The villagers bring their food for a picnic and a small jug of local dolo for the adults at breaks, water for the children.
Every age works together day in and day out. I have heard no complaints. When I ask they respond "If you want to eat in the dry season (winter), you work the fields in the wet season (summer)." Because here in Burkina Faso there are only two seasons!
Friday, July 25, 2008
African Adventure 10
06-May-08 Return to Village
For a more comfortable ride than the taxi brousse, I was driven to my village by a Peace Corps driver, Michelle, who is Dr. Claude's niece. I was able to bring my pkgs and medical supplies, as well as make a couple stops on the way to send mail and pick up music cassettes. It was a warm reception, as many people in my quartier (compound) visited me on my first day home. Georges and Laurentine came with a meal of fish and condiments and bread. They said they had been over frequently while I was gone, to check on my return date.
One evening Minata prepared my spaghetti because I still have no propane for cooking. I had problems with the temp repair of my broken tooth, and that prompted a call to the medical unit. Sylvie checked with the PC to see if my crown would be made here or in Dakar, Senegal where PC in western Africa has a contract for specialized dental care. In either case I will return to Ouaga in three weeks for that. The major and Gansonre came for a visit and we made plans for refilling my propane tank that afternoon. Adama the pharmacist stopped by briefly. Then the two new female nurses in training came over. They work here at Sala until May 30 when they return to their schooling in KDG.
When my teacher came the first time for my lesson, we reviewed the student letters I was translating into French and made corrections. That same evening Issaka from the Gannsin quartier came for the soccer ball I bought him in Ouaga for the guys in his family.
My friends and family from America called to check on me. My classmates are doing a reunion, so I got news from Lorraine and Sally regarding our fellow graduates, complete with the health update on all. That topic gets nearer and dearer with age obviously.
The next weekend my KDG friend Achille came for a visit. We sat outside a while, trying to relax in the heat. When we did go inside to have dinner, Abdoulaye was over and the major's son, Ousmane, joined us in playing Uno. Achille was so tired he kept falling asleep, so I urged him to lay down. Georges came by and played cards too. Minata came over to visit about this time. By 11pm when everyone left, I could retire on my lipico and was asleep in seconds.
The next morning Achille and I walked to the CSPS to visit the major, after which we walked to the diminished Sala barrage. Achille talked about his family, particularly his brother Seraphine who is visiting a friend in France for a month. His father was Muslim and had four wives, then married Achille's mother and became Catholic. I asked how the women deal with their feelings toward one another when there are multiple wives. His response was that in many families it does present problems. He also talked about why he won't drink. When he was very young, he drank dolo and was staggering and fell over. He can't shake the bad memory. On our way back, we passed the big tree at the foot of the hill from me and we visited with the village chef there. Under the hangar at home, Minata was husking yellow chunks of powdery stuff. We sat there and chatted a long time. We discussed when I go over to KDG the next time, Minata wants me to buy her cabbage, onion and tomato seeds for her garden near the barrage and Achille will show me where to get them.
Achille loaded up on batteries and tie downs plus a sack lunch and headed out for home late morning. I had a nap and was ready for the 30 minute walk to the marche' via the Thyou barrage. It was warm and sunny when I left, but after minutes of passing the barrage, a dust storm suddenly was within seconds of my route. People shouted for me to take cover. I got into a hangar where a family was standing too, when the heavy rains started. Two guys from their boutique came and ushered me over there, which was more protected (no open sides). I waited an hour, then people resumed their regular routines. It is interesting to observe how in tune with the weather, Burkinabe' people are. Even the kids can tell when the weather is going to change.
I started shopping for vegetables at the market, when Connie and Michael called me. She's definitely coming at Xmas, and depending on Michael's work he may be able to come. Angie called to wish me Happy Mother's Day, and talk about my never ending list. I bought some fresh fruit and veggies, then pork for a sandwich and joined some of our friends at the church hangar. George walked me home, because it was getting dusk. Before I got there, Heather called too. She has two job interviews in Portland this week, but last week she flew to Santa Clara for her first interview. She has begun her shots in view of her planned visit to me this Fall. She will make final decision after her job prospects level out.
Mid-May Doug Teschner the BF Peace Corps Director phoned me to express empathy regarding my accident, as he had been out of the country the past two weeks. He also called to say the American Ambassador wants to visit me this coming Saturday with her husband. They like weekend outings I understand. She will bring lunch.
Since I had translated all the American student letters into French, and had made 2 copies, I had an envelope of letters for Sala, Zao, and Salou. I took the first batch over to Sala elementary and gave them to the headmaster Edouard. He explained that the CP1 students can draw, but don't write until they reach CM1 level. I suggested having the CP1 students draw a picture and the CM1 students write a letter in response to the American student letters. He will collect them and bring them to me before I go to Ouaga next week, when I can send them.
While I was brushing my teeth, my broken tooth came clear out. Nothing keeps one humbler than a missing tooth!
On Saturday, 17 May I did receive a phone call from Jeanine Jackson that they were enroute, and within the hour she and Mark pulled up in their 4X4 with the English steering. They had been all over Africa in this blue Land Rover, and it had a pop out tent up on the roof. Quite exciting! Swarms of kids and animals appeared. After the initial introductions to the leaders of my quartiers, Salam and Amadou, and Ousmane, my landlady's husband, we went inside to have our picnic lunch. That consisted of sandwiches, fruit salad, hummus with pita, fresh strawberries and sodas. I learned they met in Germany in the foreign service. They have been in Africa on three or four assignments, and Kenya stole their heart for perfect climate, altitude, etc. In Mali, the Dogon Country is their recommendation for taking ones' visitors. They suggest hiring Omar to guide the hike.
My language trainer came later and they both enjoyed talking to him, as they speak good French and some Moore'. Being the seasoned diplomat, Jeanine inquired about my work before Peace Corps, and said Mark's sister was in similar child welfare work. We went outside for some photo shots before walking over to the chef's compound to render a visit. The animals, donkeys and roosters fascinated Mark. (See photos.)
After a couple hours the American Ambassador and her husband left, and Georges and I walked over to CSPS to discuss with the major our upcoming causeries at Zao and Salo. He and Gansonre reviewed my written text, suggested a coupled changes and approved the content.
That evening when Minata and Abdoulaye and I were visiting, I approached the subject of Zanabou, her grandchild, attending school. I expressed that Angela and Cliff want to donate the one mille two hundred fifty francs to send her. Minata agreed to that plan. After she found out about it, Zanabou had a smile across her face that wouldn't quit.
On Sunday the hot weather returned. I was working on my presentation for Malaria in Salo for Wednesday. I took a break by biking to the CSPS to give my niece's name and address for sharing with the nurse stagierres, who want an American nurse to write to. I also wanted to test my biking ability since my accident because the distance to Zao is 15K for Monday. The major and Gansonre were there at the clinic and had found a training tool, a flip chart teaching tool with many health issues, written both in French and Moore' and cute pictures. We need the one on Diarrhea for Zao. It is exciting to find this aid.
As I continued on my trial bike ride, I passed three girls crushing millet, and stopped to chat with them. I took their photo and met some of the men at their two adjacent quartiers too. I went as far as the bridge on the other side of Sala before returning. As I passed another compound the young woman sitting outside invited me to try her cous-cous, and then wanted a photo too. She no doubt had seen me take the earlier picture across the street. As I was doing this, the major stepped out of his house behind where we were visiting. He and some of his family came over to talk. He invited me in to eat to and sauce, a staple meal in the village in BF. I was surprised because before that I had not known where the major lived. We visited and it was very pleasant.
I spent part of the afternoon sorting through my school supplies and dividing them into 5 bags to give out to the various schools when I visit their village.
19-May-08 First Causerie (chat)
The weather was cooler and perfect for the ride to Zao this morning. I put the health pictures together to construct a poster for the talk on hygiene and diarrhea. George arrived on a loner bike, after his bike chain broke again. He assisted with the captions for the pictures. We packed up our things and headed out. An hour later we were in Dana and turned left there to arrive 30 minutes later at Zao, where Gilbert and Celine, nurse in training, were doing vaccinations this morning. The ASCs Patrice and Beli came along, but there was not a crowd of people until the afternoon. Beli acted as the town crier and hollered for people to come to the causerie He went through the market and got a few people by the arms and led them over. We talked about ways to prevent diarrhea, and the audience like the demonstration on ORS (Oral Rehydration Salt) and the flip chart, because the pictures are humerus and easy to understand. Again I spoke in French, Georges in Moore', and Beli translated into Gurounsi. There were about 40 people there, with one woman, Kougo Gene, answering the questions perfectly. Afterwards we passed out biscuits and water, including the ORS to everyone.
The mother and twins I first met in the CSPS clinic were there, and the babies were in very good shape. It was heartwarming for me to see them. They asked to stop by my place sometime for a visit. My good friend Atia also was there and will visit me one day. On the way back we stopped under a Naare tree in full yellow bloom and took a photo. George sang Moore' chants on the return trip and taught me one. The major was outside in front of his house, so we debriefed with him as we passed by.
The next day I worked some more on my Malaria causerie for Wed in Salou. I went over to the clinic for a phone number to call the ASC in Salou and make sure they were set for tomorrow. Karim stopped by the clinic while I was there and then followed me over to the elementary school in Sala to give the school supplies to the headmaster. He said the students were working on the letters to America and they would have something for me by tomorrow. While we were chatting the ICP from Bolo came by and said that he and Batou will be ready next week on Wednesday, a day we are biking 9K into the bush to talk with the people of that village on the premiere health problem for their village as they see it. In the afternoon I worked some more on my Malaria talk, when the weather changed. Suddenly it was raining “cats and dogs”. A lake formed by the side of my house where two paths intersect. When my teacher came, and the rains let up we translated the presentation, and will practice it in the morning before leaving for Salou.
On Wednesday morning we packed up and started up the path behind the CSPS towards Salou. It was rutted somewhat by the rains, and a little tricky to navigate. When we got to village we went directly to the school. They were expecting us and greeted us warmly. I explained the letter exchange to the school director, and requested that he bring me the response in two weeks. Next we went to the chef's compound where he was in “devin” meeting with people about requests/issues. We waited over an hour. When he came to greet us, he said there was a funeral of a young person, and everyone was gone to that. He offered us dolo as we talked with him. The kids were playing on his spacious porch, and one of his young grandsons was particularly engaging and humming. I made a mental note to bring him one of the plastic recorders I have. We rescheduled the causerie for another day.
As we left the village Georges spotted fresh yellow powder called Naare and bought a huge sack full for 800 francs. We tied it on my bike for transport home. He parked it by the hangar outside my house and soon one of the children came in to tell him the sack sprung a leak. Minata helped with another bag and the powder was transferred. Soon he left for home with it.
Thursday morning I got ready to go to Ouaga because I had a much desired dental appointment the next day to get the prep work done for my new crown. Georges wrote a letter to Angela thanking her for sending the Timex watch I requested. He offered respect and peace to her family. He wants me to mail it when I go to town. While I am gone his daughter Reine will make her First Communion. Georges helped me get to the taxi brousse place. It was an eventful ride into the capital. Before we got out of Thyou, we stopped so the chauffeur and helper could replace a bolt on the right front wheel. After we left the junction at Sabou in less than an hour, we stopped for them to put the spare on the right rear. When we got to the next town, they stopped to get the tire repaired or replaced, which took another hour.
I got settled into my room at the Transit House, before going to the PC Bureau. On the way I waited for the post office to open and spoke to the woman in the produce stand in front of PO. She said she saw my accident last month. She said the young boy didn't see me, and as I turned he hit my rear wheel. He may have been trying to pass on my left she said. Her son came by and translated for us.
At the bureau medical clinic, Sylvie said that the muscle color on my backside has returned to normal, but it will still take a while for the lump to go down. I was able to talk with other PC staff, go on the internet, and open my US mail also. That evening everyone was going to dinner at an East Indian restaurant with a volunteer who finished service. I tried some new dishes: Samosa (deep fried triangles filled with mashed potato and meat), “Poulet la Beurre” (chicken in red spicy sauce) and India garlic bread. It was sooo delicious!
At my appointment the dentist worked on my tooth root for 2.5 hours preparing it for the new crown. It took so long because my tooth broke so close to the gum line, and he had to drill way into the root for placing a peg. They also took x rays and impressions.
I was in town where I could do some shopping before returning to TH. I bought some things. I was looking for- a long striped towel for Jodi to carry Cash like the African women do, and eventually there was a crowd of merchants trying to steer me to each of their boutiques for the purchase. It turned into a fiasco really and finally as they were arguing with each other, I hailed a taxi and left, much to their displeasure. When I had located the towel, they were fighting over whose sale it would be.
In the later afternoon the driver took me to pick up my glasses which were made in Spain and were ready. They are nice and I can see better now. The driver was kind enough to take me around to find a soccer ball for the kids in my quartier. It cost 2500 francs. We returned to the bureau where I worked on the internet a long time. Then Christina and I walked back to the TH, ordered pizza and watched the movie “Kite Runner” on Laura's laptop. She said that Manish got 20 highjacked movies when he was in China visiting his parents who live there. After reading the book I can say the movie is less than perfect because so many of his well described feelings and struggles are difficult to translate onto the screen.
Saturday morning Christina and I walked to the PCB and visited Nakeisha who was in med unit. The ambassador and her husband came by the bureau to give me a fresh supply of hummus, because they meant to leave me that on their visit. It was good to see them again. I thanked Mark for sending me pictures of their visit to Sala over the email. They were on their way to a festival of masks in a village for the day.
In the afternoon I was able to talk with Ang and catch up on the news from home. She said their nursery business is in full swing with tomato plants selling fast. Many people are planting their own vegetables this year due to the sagging economy she speculated. Cliff's mother has been in poor health so they are tending to some of her needs. I updated her on my health. I talked with her about the student letters needing translation in both directions.
Sunday morning I got up early to bathe and walk 6-8 blocks to St. Francis Church. The mass was so full I had to stand in the back of church, kind of leaning on a table when I could. Since the students had left for the summer break, the choral director led the congregation in the hymns. After Mass, the Exposition of the Blessed Sacrament began. The people got so excited when the priest processed around the inside and outside of the church, that when he re-entered, a big cheer went up for Jesus.
Then the weather changed and the wind picked up, so that by the time the service was over, it had started sprinkling. I walked about 6 blocks, when it started to pour, and literally I couldn't continue, because the street was flooding and the dirt was rutting and not easy to trasverse. I found a hangar to stand in along with several other people. One of the young men indicated he would walk me home soon, so I hung onto his elbow and we proceeded towards the Transit House four blocks away. I tipped him 500 francs and was so drenched by then and equally happy to be home. After drying off and getting into warm clothes I made a pan of brownies which was a big hit with the volunteers there on this blustery indoors kind of day.
Much later in the afternoon I walked over the the bureau about 10 blocks away and visited Nakeisha, who needed phone units, which I brought her. I picked us up some food at the Blue Marlin. It took me a long time to put my blog and pictures up\on the internet. Sally called and has another box ready to send. I asked for more paper for the school kids and Spanish peanuts for me. I crave salt at times, I think from sweating in the humidity and drinking lots of water. Her family will go to Fort Flagler in June, so that is always a good gathering time for them.
On Monday morning I wrote Dr. Claude a letter of interest in the Moringa Workshop, which will be held in OHG mid-June and includes bringing a counterpart from the COGES (health board) group in village. I attached a photo of the Moringa tree I had given my host family when I left in December and it had doubled in height, and was well protected. I also wanted to send Dr. Claude some pictures from the day she visited me in village, and I was doing a presentation in Dana, 10K away, which she attended. (See photos.) And I wanted to email the American Ambassador a thank you as well.
I said Goodbye to Nakeisha and went back to the TH to pack, when Becky arrived as I was leaving. Also Rob was just back from New York seeing his brother and he helped me get a cab to go to the taxi brousse gare for Thyou. Then the wait began! The guys who manage this taxi were all getting haircuts beside the vehicle. We women waited two hours after departure time for the thing to leave. Then we waited at another location for some village commissionaire. Another time the taxi pulled over and all 16 of us got off while they changed a flat tire. By the time I got to Thyou it was 1630, and I needed help getting all my stuff home. Pretty soon Maxime came on his moto and took my luggage home. Then his brother Georges arrived and walked me home. I had forgot we were going to meet at the other station in town. I think I was exhausted from the ride home and spaced it.
27-May-08
On Tuesday morning we practiced the Malaria causerie (talk) before riding there. We always stop by the clinic to talk with the major before talking with the villagers, to make sure he knows what I am up to. The stagierre nurses were there getting ready to return to KDG today. I let the major know I needed a contact number for an ASC in Bolo and Bouyou because we are going there next Wednesday. He supplied that.
At Salou, Karim, Georges and myself went to the chef's house first to give away the recorder to his grandson, Salaif, who was thrilled. Next we went to the big tree at the other side of the marche' and waited. The chef had arranged for a town crier to get the message out again. By 12:45 there were enough people to get underway, about 20 women and 10 men and many kids. We did the Malaria presentation and used the flip that the medical staff in Sala found for us. The people were interested in that visual aid answered the questions posed them in Moore'. I demonstrated the moustiquaire spray. Then we headed back to Sala and got benga at Mimouna's restaurant. By the time I got home in the afternoon Garrett came over to borrow some medical information I have, and he wants to bike 12K into the bush with us tomorrow for the presentations in Bolo and Bouyou. Abdoulaye and his brother Madi came over to visit and play Uno. Madi goes to secondary school in Sabou all school year, and I gave some school supplies. I gave Abdoulaye the soccer ball I had bought him in Ouaga, and boy was he happy. I went to bed at 9pm and think I'm getting a cold.
On Wednesday morning Garrett came, then Karim, then Georges. After a round of coffee we left for the bush. It took an hour to reach Bolo and we took a path that went by the biggest Baobob Tree, so stopped for photos there. Then went to the place close to the school where some functonairres were gathered. I gave the headmaster the sack of school supplies. He wants his students to write letters to America. He inquired about the French reader books, and I told him I was still working on that.
After an intense discussion we left for Bouyou as they were expecting us there at 10am. One woman was waiting for us under the big tree, and she and Amidiou went out to the fields and had the other people come in for the presentation. There were 80 people Garrett counted including children. They were very attentive. I presented in French and Georges presented in Moore'. When we broke into groups I had Garrett take the young men, Karim take the old men and Georges got the big group of women. They each came up with 5 main health issues, we merged the lists and then did the matrix with the people voting on every pair of issues. The principal health problem identified in this way by the villagers was Palu (malaria). I was able to ask my three wrap up questions after which they all clapped. We passed out the biscuits and water. Then they gave us a dozen pintard eggs and a big sack of peanuts. What a treat! They loved having us come clear out to their village to talk with them.
As we came back through Bolo we stopped by the gathering place and discussed with them that I am losing my voice to a cold and we will return next marche' for the presentation in Bolo.
On Thursday I stayed in all morning taking it easy due to my cold. Before noon I was napping too. Then I went to the marche' in Thyou and met a lot of friends. I got pork for a sandwich and we went to have dolo with Georges friend Prosper. We saw Jean Baptiste and Marie and several villagers I know. There was a man who had seen us present in Bouyou and he thanked us again. I think I saw Awa when I fist got there and then the headmaster Edouard who wants me to come to the school again.
When I went for produce, I met Laurentine and gave her half the leaves I bought for sauce. As I returned for my bike, Augustine wanted something from the marche' and I gave him a mango. He was happy. After the marche' we took the route around the Thyou barrage to go home for my lesson.
In the evening I gave out candy to the children, and we were to Amadou's maison for his home made dolo.
Friday was a dark morning. I went to get cell tell units and got home just before the two hour rain started. Minata was dancing in the rain, just what a gardener here does! After a long bath and braiding my hair, I worked on my summary for the COGES, a meeting that usually occurs on the 30th of each month, but won't take place today. When Georges came for my lesson, he helped correct my translation.
Saturday I got up at 5:30 and had my breakfast and asked Minata if I could go the fields with them to plant today. “Mam tuumba waooga.” It was 2K away on the back road, and the kids were already there working. I got a daba to dig a small hole and plant one benga (bean) and 12 ki (millet) in each, then cover it up. We worked until mid-morning when we had a meal of to and Gumbo sauce. I explained to Minata's kids that in America when we eat outside it is called a picnic, which we were having right then. They giggled, thinking that was really funny. (See photos.)
For a more comfortable ride than the taxi brousse, I was driven to my village by a Peace Corps driver, Michelle, who is Dr. Claude's niece. I was able to bring my pkgs and medical supplies, as well as make a couple stops on the way to send mail and pick up music cassettes. It was a warm reception, as many people in my quartier (compound) visited me on my first day home. Georges and Laurentine came with a meal of fish and condiments and bread. They said they had been over frequently while I was gone, to check on my return date.
One evening Minata prepared my spaghetti because I still have no propane for cooking. I had problems with the temp repair of my broken tooth, and that prompted a call to the medical unit. Sylvie checked with the PC to see if my crown would be made here or in Dakar, Senegal where PC in western Africa has a contract for specialized dental care. In either case I will return to Ouaga in three weeks for that. The major and Gansonre came for a visit and we made plans for refilling my propane tank that afternoon. Adama the pharmacist stopped by briefly. Then the two new female nurses in training came over. They work here at Sala until May 30 when they return to their schooling in KDG.
When my teacher came the first time for my lesson, we reviewed the student letters I was translating into French and made corrections. That same evening Issaka from the Gannsin quartier came for the soccer ball I bought him in Ouaga for the guys in his family.
My friends and family from America called to check on me. My classmates are doing a reunion, so I got news from Lorraine and Sally regarding our fellow graduates, complete with the health update on all. That topic gets nearer and dearer with age obviously.
The next weekend my KDG friend Achille came for a visit. We sat outside a while, trying to relax in the heat. When we did go inside to have dinner, Abdoulaye was over and the major's son, Ousmane, joined us in playing Uno. Achille was so tired he kept falling asleep, so I urged him to lay down. Georges came by and played cards too. Minata came over to visit about this time. By 11pm when everyone left, I could retire on my lipico and was asleep in seconds.
The next morning Achille and I walked to the CSPS to visit the major, after which we walked to the diminished Sala barrage. Achille talked about his family, particularly his brother Seraphine who is visiting a friend in France for a month. His father was Muslim and had four wives, then married Achille's mother and became Catholic. I asked how the women deal with their feelings toward one another when there are multiple wives. His response was that in many families it does present problems. He also talked about why he won't drink. When he was very young, he drank dolo and was staggering and fell over. He can't shake the bad memory. On our way back, we passed the big tree at the foot of the hill from me and we visited with the village chef there. Under the hangar at home, Minata was husking yellow chunks of powdery stuff. We sat there and chatted a long time. We discussed when I go over to KDG the next time, Minata wants me to buy her cabbage, onion and tomato seeds for her garden near the barrage and Achille will show me where to get them.
Achille loaded up on batteries and tie downs plus a sack lunch and headed out for home late morning. I had a nap and was ready for the 30 minute walk to the marche' via the Thyou barrage. It was warm and sunny when I left, but after minutes of passing the barrage, a dust storm suddenly was within seconds of my route. People shouted for me to take cover. I got into a hangar where a family was standing too, when the heavy rains started. Two guys from their boutique came and ushered me over there, which was more protected (no open sides). I waited an hour, then people resumed their regular routines. It is interesting to observe how in tune with the weather, Burkinabe' people are. Even the kids can tell when the weather is going to change.
I started shopping for vegetables at the market, when Connie and Michael called me. She's definitely coming at Xmas, and depending on Michael's work he may be able to come. Angie called to wish me Happy Mother's Day, and talk about my never ending list. I bought some fresh fruit and veggies, then pork for a sandwich and joined some of our friends at the church hangar. George walked me home, because it was getting dusk. Before I got there, Heather called too. She has two job interviews in Portland this week, but last week she flew to Santa Clara for her first interview. She has begun her shots in view of her planned visit to me this Fall. She will make final decision after her job prospects level out.
Mid-May Doug Teschner the BF Peace Corps Director phoned me to express empathy regarding my accident, as he had been out of the country the past two weeks. He also called to say the American Ambassador wants to visit me this coming Saturday with her husband. They like weekend outings I understand. She will bring lunch.
Since I had translated all the American student letters into French, and had made 2 copies, I had an envelope of letters for Sala, Zao, and Salou. I took the first batch over to Sala elementary and gave them to the headmaster Edouard. He explained that the CP1 students can draw, but don't write until they reach CM1 level. I suggested having the CP1 students draw a picture and the CM1 students write a letter in response to the American student letters. He will collect them and bring them to me before I go to Ouaga next week, when I can send them.
While I was brushing my teeth, my broken tooth came clear out. Nothing keeps one humbler than a missing tooth!
On Saturday, 17 May I did receive a phone call from Jeanine Jackson that they were enroute, and within the hour she and Mark pulled up in their 4X4 with the English steering. They had been all over Africa in this blue Land Rover, and it had a pop out tent up on the roof. Quite exciting! Swarms of kids and animals appeared. After the initial introductions to the leaders of my quartiers, Salam and Amadou, and Ousmane, my landlady's husband, we went inside to have our picnic lunch. That consisted of sandwiches, fruit salad, hummus with pita, fresh strawberries and sodas. I learned they met in Germany in the foreign service. They have been in Africa on three or four assignments, and Kenya stole their heart for perfect climate, altitude, etc. In Mali, the Dogon Country is their recommendation for taking ones' visitors. They suggest hiring Omar to guide the hike.
My language trainer came later and they both enjoyed talking to him, as they speak good French and some Moore'. Being the seasoned diplomat, Jeanine inquired about my work before Peace Corps, and said Mark's sister was in similar child welfare work. We went outside for some photo shots before walking over to the chef's compound to render a visit. The animals, donkeys and roosters fascinated Mark. (See photos.)
After a couple hours the American Ambassador and her husband left, and Georges and I walked over to CSPS to discuss with the major our upcoming causeries at Zao and Salo. He and Gansonre reviewed my written text, suggested a coupled changes and approved the content.
That evening when Minata and Abdoulaye and I were visiting, I approached the subject of Zanabou, her grandchild, attending school. I expressed that Angela and Cliff want to donate the one mille two hundred fifty francs to send her. Minata agreed to that plan. After she found out about it, Zanabou had a smile across her face that wouldn't quit.
On Sunday the hot weather returned. I was working on my presentation for Malaria in Salo for Wednesday. I took a break by biking to the CSPS to give my niece's name and address for sharing with the nurse stagierres, who want an American nurse to write to. I also wanted to test my biking ability since my accident because the distance to Zao is 15K for Monday. The major and Gansonre were there at the clinic and had found a training tool, a flip chart teaching tool with many health issues, written both in French and Moore' and cute pictures. We need the one on Diarrhea for Zao. It is exciting to find this aid.
As I continued on my trial bike ride, I passed three girls crushing millet, and stopped to chat with them. I took their photo and met some of the men at their two adjacent quartiers too. I went as far as the bridge on the other side of Sala before returning. As I passed another compound the young woman sitting outside invited me to try her cous-cous, and then wanted a photo too. She no doubt had seen me take the earlier picture across the street. As I was doing this, the major stepped out of his house behind where we were visiting. He and some of his family came over to talk. He invited me in to eat to and sauce, a staple meal in the village in BF. I was surprised because before that I had not known where the major lived. We visited and it was very pleasant.
I spent part of the afternoon sorting through my school supplies and dividing them into 5 bags to give out to the various schools when I visit their village.
19-May-08 First Causerie (chat)
The weather was cooler and perfect for the ride to Zao this morning. I put the health pictures together to construct a poster for the talk on hygiene and diarrhea. George arrived on a loner bike, after his bike chain broke again. He assisted with the captions for the pictures. We packed up our things and headed out. An hour later we were in Dana and turned left there to arrive 30 minutes later at Zao, where Gilbert and Celine, nurse in training, were doing vaccinations this morning. The ASCs Patrice and Beli came along, but there was not a crowd of people until the afternoon. Beli acted as the town crier and hollered for people to come to the causerie He went through the market and got a few people by the arms and led them over. We talked about ways to prevent diarrhea, and the audience like the demonstration on ORS (Oral Rehydration Salt) and the flip chart, because the pictures are humerus and easy to understand. Again I spoke in French, Georges in Moore', and Beli translated into Gurounsi. There were about 40 people there, with one woman, Kougo Gene, answering the questions perfectly. Afterwards we passed out biscuits and water, including the ORS to everyone.
The mother and twins I first met in the CSPS clinic were there, and the babies were in very good shape. It was heartwarming for me to see them. They asked to stop by my place sometime for a visit. My good friend Atia also was there and will visit me one day. On the way back we stopped under a Naare tree in full yellow bloom and took a photo. George sang Moore' chants on the return trip and taught me one. The major was outside in front of his house, so we debriefed with him as we passed by.
The next day I worked some more on my Malaria causerie for Wed in Salou. I went over to the clinic for a phone number to call the ASC in Salou and make sure they were set for tomorrow. Karim stopped by the clinic while I was there and then followed me over to the elementary school in Sala to give the school supplies to the headmaster. He said the students were working on the letters to America and they would have something for me by tomorrow. While we were chatting the ICP from Bolo came by and said that he and Batou will be ready next week on Wednesday, a day we are biking 9K into the bush to talk with the people of that village on the premiere health problem for their village as they see it. In the afternoon I worked some more on my Malaria talk, when the weather changed. Suddenly it was raining “cats and dogs”. A lake formed by the side of my house where two paths intersect. When my teacher came, and the rains let up we translated the presentation, and will practice it in the morning before leaving for Salou.
On Wednesday morning we packed up and started up the path behind the CSPS towards Salou. It was rutted somewhat by the rains, and a little tricky to navigate. When we got to village we went directly to the school. They were expecting us and greeted us warmly. I explained the letter exchange to the school director, and requested that he bring me the response in two weeks. Next we went to the chef's compound where he was in “devin” meeting with people about requests/issues. We waited over an hour. When he came to greet us, he said there was a funeral of a young person, and everyone was gone to that. He offered us dolo as we talked with him. The kids were playing on his spacious porch, and one of his young grandsons was particularly engaging and humming. I made a mental note to bring him one of the plastic recorders I have. We rescheduled the causerie for another day.
As we left the village Georges spotted fresh yellow powder called Naare and bought a huge sack full for 800 francs. We tied it on my bike for transport home. He parked it by the hangar outside my house and soon one of the children came in to tell him the sack sprung a leak. Minata helped with another bag and the powder was transferred. Soon he left for home with it.
Thursday morning I got ready to go to Ouaga because I had a much desired dental appointment the next day to get the prep work done for my new crown. Georges wrote a letter to Angela thanking her for sending the Timex watch I requested. He offered respect and peace to her family. He wants me to mail it when I go to town. While I am gone his daughter Reine will make her First Communion. Georges helped me get to the taxi brousse place. It was an eventful ride into the capital. Before we got out of Thyou, we stopped so the chauffeur and helper could replace a bolt on the right front wheel. After we left the junction at Sabou in less than an hour, we stopped for them to put the spare on the right rear. When we got to the next town, they stopped to get the tire repaired or replaced, which took another hour.
I got settled into my room at the Transit House, before going to the PC Bureau. On the way I waited for the post office to open and spoke to the woman in the produce stand in front of PO. She said she saw my accident last month. She said the young boy didn't see me, and as I turned he hit my rear wheel. He may have been trying to pass on my left she said. Her son came by and translated for us.
At the bureau medical clinic, Sylvie said that the muscle color on my backside has returned to normal, but it will still take a while for the lump to go down. I was able to talk with other PC staff, go on the internet, and open my US mail also. That evening everyone was going to dinner at an East Indian restaurant with a volunteer who finished service. I tried some new dishes: Samosa (deep fried triangles filled with mashed potato and meat), “Poulet la Beurre” (chicken in red spicy sauce) and India garlic bread. It was sooo delicious!
At my appointment the dentist worked on my tooth root for 2.5 hours preparing it for the new crown. It took so long because my tooth broke so close to the gum line, and he had to drill way into the root for placing a peg. They also took x rays and impressions.
I was in town where I could do some shopping before returning to TH. I bought some things. I was looking for- a long striped towel for Jodi to carry Cash like the African women do, and eventually there was a crowd of merchants trying to steer me to each of their boutiques for the purchase. It turned into a fiasco really and finally as they were arguing with each other, I hailed a taxi and left, much to their displeasure. When I had located the towel, they were fighting over whose sale it would be.
In the later afternoon the driver took me to pick up my glasses which were made in Spain and were ready. They are nice and I can see better now. The driver was kind enough to take me around to find a soccer ball for the kids in my quartier. It cost 2500 francs. We returned to the bureau where I worked on the internet a long time. Then Christina and I walked back to the TH, ordered pizza and watched the movie “Kite Runner” on Laura's laptop. She said that Manish got 20 highjacked movies when he was in China visiting his parents who live there. After reading the book I can say the movie is less than perfect because so many of his well described feelings and struggles are difficult to translate onto the screen.
Saturday morning Christina and I walked to the PCB and visited Nakeisha who was in med unit. The ambassador and her husband came by the bureau to give me a fresh supply of hummus, because they meant to leave me that on their visit. It was good to see them again. I thanked Mark for sending me pictures of their visit to Sala over the email. They were on their way to a festival of masks in a village for the day.
In the afternoon I was able to talk with Ang and catch up on the news from home. She said their nursery business is in full swing with tomato plants selling fast. Many people are planting their own vegetables this year due to the sagging economy she speculated. Cliff's mother has been in poor health so they are tending to some of her needs. I updated her on my health. I talked with her about the student letters needing translation in both directions.
Sunday morning I got up early to bathe and walk 6-8 blocks to St. Francis Church. The mass was so full I had to stand in the back of church, kind of leaning on a table when I could. Since the students had left for the summer break, the choral director led the congregation in the hymns. After Mass, the Exposition of the Blessed Sacrament began. The people got so excited when the priest processed around the inside and outside of the church, that when he re-entered, a big cheer went up for Jesus.
Then the weather changed and the wind picked up, so that by the time the service was over, it had started sprinkling. I walked about 6 blocks, when it started to pour, and literally I couldn't continue, because the street was flooding and the dirt was rutting and not easy to trasverse. I found a hangar to stand in along with several other people. One of the young men indicated he would walk me home soon, so I hung onto his elbow and we proceeded towards the Transit House four blocks away. I tipped him 500 francs and was so drenched by then and equally happy to be home. After drying off and getting into warm clothes I made a pan of brownies which was a big hit with the volunteers there on this blustery indoors kind of day.
Much later in the afternoon I walked over the the bureau about 10 blocks away and visited Nakeisha, who needed phone units, which I brought her. I picked us up some food at the Blue Marlin. It took me a long time to put my blog and pictures up\on the internet. Sally called and has another box ready to send. I asked for more paper for the school kids and Spanish peanuts for me. I crave salt at times, I think from sweating in the humidity and drinking lots of water. Her family will go to Fort Flagler in June, so that is always a good gathering time for them.
On Monday morning I wrote Dr. Claude a letter of interest in the Moringa Workshop, which will be held in OHG mid-June and includes bringing a counterpart from the COGES (health board) group in village. I attached a photo of the Moringa tree I had given my host family when I left in December and it had doubled in height, and was well protected. I also wanted to send Dr. Claude some pictures from the day she visited me in village, and I was doing a presentation in Dana, 10K away, which she attended. (See photos.) And I wanted to email the American Ambassador a thank you as well.
I said Goodbye to Nakeisha and went back to the TH to pack, when Becky arrived as I was leaving. Also Rob was just back from New York seeing his brother and he helped me get a cab to go to the taxi brousse gare for Thyou. Then the wait began! The guys who manage this taxi were all getting haircuts beside the vehicle. We women waited two hours after departure time for the thing to leave. Then we waited at another location for some village commissionaire. Another time the taxi pulled over and all 16 of us got off while they changed a flat tire. By the time I got to Thyou it was 1630, and I needed help getting all my stuff home. Pretty soon Maxime came on his moto and took my luggage home. Then his brother Georges arrived and walked me home. I had forgot we were going to meet at the other station in town. I think I was exhausted from the ride home and spaced it.
27-May-08
On Tuesday morning we practiced the Malaria causerie (talk) before riding there. We always stop by the clinic to talk with the major before talking with the villagers, to make sure he knows what I am up to. The stagierre nurses were there getting ready to return to KDG today. I let the major know I needed a contact number for an ASC in Bolo and Bouyou because we are going there next Wednesday. He supplied that.
At Salou, Karim, Georges and myself went to the chef's house first to give away the recorder to his grandson, Salaif, who was thrilled. Next we went to the big tree at the other side of the marche' and waited. The chef had arranged for a town crier to get the message out again. By 12:45 there were enough people to get underway, about 20 women and 10 men and many kids. We did the Malaria presentation and used the flip that the medical staff in Sala found for us. The people were interested in that visual aid answered the questions posed them in Moore'. I demonstrated the moustiquaire spray. Then we headed back to Sala and got benga at Mimouna's restaurant. By the time I got home in the afternoon Garrett came over to borrow some medical information I have, and he wants to bike 12K into the bush with us tomorrow for the presentations in Bolo and Bouyou. Abdoulaye and his brother Madi came over to visit and play Uno. Madi goes to secondary school in Sabou all school year, and I gave some school supplies. I gave Abdoulaye the soccer ball I had bought him in Ouaga, and boy was he happy. I went to bed at 9pm and think I'm getting a cold.
On Wednesday morning Garrett came, then Karim, then Georges. After a round of coffee we left for the bush. It took an hour to reach Bolo and we took a path that went by the biggest Baobob Tree, so stopped for photos there. Then went to the place close to the school where some functonairres were gathered. I gave the headmaster the sack of school supplies. He wants his students to write letters to America. He inquired about the French reader books, and I told him I was still working on that.
After an intense discussion we left for Bouyou as they were expecting us there at 10am. One woman was waiting for us under the big tree, and she and Amidiou went out to the fields and had the other people come in for the presentation. There were 80 people Garrett counted including children. They were very attentive. I presented in French and Georges presented in Moore'. When we broke into groups I had Garrett take the young men, Karim take the old men and Georges got the big group of women. They each came up with 5 main health issues, we merged the lists and then did the matrix with the people voting on every pair of issues. The principal health problem identified in this way by the villagers was Palu (malaria). I was able to ask my three wrap up questions after which they all clapped. We passed out the biscuits and water. Then they gave us a dozen pintard eggs and a big sack of peanuts. What a treat! They loved having us come clear out to their village to talk with them.
As we came back through Bolo we stopped by the gathering place and discussed with them that I am losing my voice to a cold and we will return next marche' for the presentation in Bolo.
On Thursday I stayed in all morning taking it easy due to my cold. Before noon I was napping too. Then I went to the marche' in Thyou and met a lot of friends. I got pork for a sandwich and we went to have dolo with Georges friend Prosper. We saw Jean Baptiste and Marie and several villagers I know. There was a man who had seen us present in Bouyou and he thanked us again. I think I saw Awa when I fist got there and then the headmaster Edouard who wants me to come to the school again.
When I went for produce, I met Laurentine and gave her half the leaves I bought for sauce. As I returned for my bike, Augustine wanted something from the marche' and I gave him a mango. He was happy. After the marche' we took the route around the Thyou barrage to go home for my lesson.
In the evening I gave out candy to the children, and we were to Amadou's maison for his home made dolo.
Friday was a dark morning. I went to get cell tell units and got home just before the two hour rain started. Minata was dancing in the rain, just what a gardener here does! After a long bath and braiding my hair, I worked on my summary for the COGES, a meeting that usually occurs on the 30th of each month, but won't take place today. When Georges came for my lesson, he helped correct my translation.
Saturday I got up at 5:30 and had my breakfast and asked Minata if I could go the fields with them to plant today. “Mam tuumba waooga.” It was 2K away on the back road, and the kids were already there working. I got a daba to dig a small hole and plant one benga (bean) and 12 ki (millet) in each, then cover it up. We worked until mid-morning when we had a meal of to and Gumbo sauce. I explained to Minata's kids that in America when we eat outside it is called a picnic, which we were having right then. They giggled, thinking that was really funny. (See photos.)
Thursday, June 12, 2008
African Adventure 9
31-03-08 Week of Moore-IST
We are at Koudougou this week with the goal of learning more about Moore', Robert and I have JZ for our teacher at the Notre Dame Petite Seminaire. We are in one of the buildings up the hill which has 5-6 units. We began by exchanging some ideas on what to learn. We will start with some pronouns, greetings and numbers. We have both individual and group classes, plus personal study time. At my class today JZ and I practiced numbers and money. Then we talked about the special Mass his extended family had on Sunday and how there was a number of relatives at his mother's house now. So he was glad for the quiet of the seminaire.
In the morning I rode up to the main road and got an omelette sandwich. While I waited for it, a man played his guitar for me. He has a house full of instruments. For lunch Rob and I were in town near the poste, I showed him where the good pork place was and we got enough for sandwiches. Rob was having his “Jour de la Femme” material made into a shirt and pants near there. I was paying for a necklace the shopkeepers let me take earlier this month on credit. Three guys in that boutique were playing the drums, quite beautifully. My friend Achille came to visit me in the evening. We talked and looked at my recent pictures. It was a good visit.
01-04-08 April Fool's Day
This day was much the same classwise. I did tenses of Moore' verbs, which is pretty straight forward, not conjugated like French. At noon I went to the internet to respond to the new PC director of BF with an email regarding senior volunteers. I sent him some attachments, as I had already addressed some issues for seniors in my appeal process before coming to the PC.
Becky texted me an April Fool's msg saying she was leaving PC, which I showed to Rob, who then did the same thing to lots of volunteers and the new director. Dr. Claude called our teacher to see if Rob was OK. Manish checked in with Rob from the airport in Ouaga on his way to China. The CD told Rob that he had him going too. Some of the female volunteers didn't put it that kindly.
After our formal class, Rob and I discussed having dinner at the Conference Center. I invited Achille who met us there. We ordered their delicious salads and shared a riz gras with arachide sauce. After a relaxing meal we went to the internet before going back to the seminaire.
The next morning JZ taught Rob and I the six parts to accomplein and inaccomplein verb tenses. It was a long lesson. JZ had us write out exercises practicing with each example he gave.
When break came and the day was already hot (this is April after all) we decided to grab a sandwich and head for the outdoor pool at the Palmquiste. We read, ate and swam for several hours relaxing in this pleasant environment. (See pictures.) Then some inspectors came to check the pool, and questioned me about my tank top and shorts. They said this would be an exception, bear in mind we were the only guests there. At 2pm they closed the pool because the University had it reserved for a class.
JZ taught me numbers 50,000 francs and above. We went over everyday language and I practiced making up sentences. He said our medical terms we want to learn will happen on Friday as he has an appointment Thursday. He wants my French/Moore teacher to text him for a meeting time to discuss my learning style, etc. I had told him that Georges was coming to KDG for business.
The younger volunteers were going to dinner, but I passed on that as I had already spent one mille going swimming and Achille was coming over to look at my blog #7 so we were having another avocado sandwich together. He said that was his only meal that day, so I was glad to provide that. We went to the internet to upload pictures for Costco to print for me.
On Thursday morning I took my laundry up behind the seminaire office to have it done. After breakfast and studying, I found Melissa's place and left a note on the door. The younger volunteers were in town at the other pool (another hot day in BF). I rode by the FasoTex Industry on my way home. It is a gigantic cotton textile mill in KDG.
When I returned to the office of the seminaire, I found some cards to buy and left there for my room, when Georges arrived from Thyou pedaling to KDG in 3 hrs time. We went back to where JZ was teaching us, and he and Georges met about my language learning. I suddenly had an urge to go for water. I lingered a while.
When I came back, we texted Achille and said we were coming to his work. We had planned to go visit the Municipal grave site of Georges' baby son. First we went by Laurentine's mother's place to meet up with her brother named Georges also, as he would accompany us there. We all four rode our bikes to the Municipal Cemetery and there on the corner of the lot was a tiny mound of dirt where the grave site of Kiemtore' Jean Marc was marked by a beautiful sign my friend Achille had inscribed for them. I cried when I saw it, and couldn't keep it inside any longer. It was so difficult to see that. But as the two guys hugged and hushed me, Georges said “God gives and He takes and Jean Marc is with God.” (See pictures.)
When we returned to the relatives home, Laurentine's mother was stripping the aubergine plant stems. Georges and Achille peeled one and we all took turns eating it. It did taste good. The family served us to' (main grain in diet) and sauce. Soon we headed back to the seminaire to my next Moore' lesson. After it was over we three hung out for a while, trying out my laptop and my MP3 player. Before they left, as my fatigue was starting to show, Georges talked again about his baby's death and he indicated that Jean Mark had a blood transfusion hours before he died. They talked to the head of the unit about that. It is an unanswered question it seems.
04-04-08
One class this Friday morning on Moore' medical terms! JZ showed us how to phrase a community introduction in Moore', explaining our role, etc. Rob and I both think we will use that. As we ended our time together JZ said “You have my number, please call with questions.”
In the next hour I went up the hill for omelette sandwiches for Rob, Georges and I. We discussed the Close Of Service party in Ouaga that Rob was going to leave at noon for. He modeled his clothes the tailor in KDG made for him out of the Jour de Femme material he and I bought in Ouaga last time. They were handsome outfits. (See photos.) JZ came over to say goodbye.
I made a trip to the internet chafe, and my friend, Allasane watched me do computer work for a while. That afternoon I walked around the wonderful marche' in the center of Koudougou. At the end of his workday, I met Achille for a coke and we both waited near his work at the Gare(bus station) for Becky to arrive on the bus from Ouaga for a weekend visit. Achille and two buddies from his work helped when she arrived at 6:45pm dusk to get us all through town and down the hill to the seminaire where Becky got settled in a room. Achille and I went up to town to get some dinner and go to the internet.
On Saturday morning Becky and I ate in the relaxing mission dining room. We caught up on life in our respective villages. We pedaled to the post office to get money and used the internet there. After a couple hours of that I showed Becky around the big marche' at KDG, which she loved. We had fun bartering for fabric at one boutique. We both had the tailor hem a headscarf for us and I found christian fabric for Sally there and Becky got a shirt. We were both happy. We found the arachide woman and the artisan display where we got peanut butter and a leather jewelry case. In our browsing we happened upon the cutest little boy who was drinking water from a clear sachet and it was squirting all over his face. I took a picture of Aziz doing this.
We spent more time at the internet cafe, before going to the Conference Center for dinner and happy hour. We each got a salad and shared a riz gras. When Achille finished work he joined us and we talked about my departing for village in the morning. He will come on his brother's moto to help us because of all those boxes I have to take.
Sunday morning the boys were back at the petite seminaire after a break and were singing in church. Their voices are something to behold. Achille and I went to Mass, and Becky waited for us on her porch all the while listening to the heavenly chanting. Because the mass went long, we had to scurry to the transport station. Achille motoed ahead and Becky (25 yrs my junior) and I pedaled fast, which I later paid for with a pulled muscle above my left knee. Becky dashed over to buy us all an omelette sandwich as Achille was loading my stuff on the taxi brousse. I got aboard too. Becky handed me a sandwich through the window nearly as we pulled away. I waved goodbye to my two friends. (See photo.)
By the time we got to Sabou, I knew my leg was hurting a lot. I sat in the front of the next taxi brousse for the 15 K to Sala. Somehow they knew I would be coming, because the bigger kids were there to meet me and carried all my boxes, luggage, and walked my bike up the hill to my home. The advise of the PCMO was to wrap my leg in ace bandage, take extra Ibuprofen, and no biking for a week. That worked well.
I talked to Chris on the phone that evening to thank him for the fans he sent in time for the April heat. We also talked about the Trader Joe's foil dinner pkgs, which are perfect over rice, pasta, etc. for one person. He sent tons of batteries to run the fans and other things. I shouldn't run out for a long time. After being gone three weeks, my house was covered in a film of red dust from the winds.
07-04-08 Monday-(Tene)
Elevating my leg overnight made it possible for me to walk without pain. I went outside to greet everyone. Issaka introduced me to his brother (husband to Minata and father of her children) Ousmane who had come from Cote d' Ivoire while I was gone. Ousmane speaks a tribal language from there and Moore', but no French. It was comforting to be home and see all my neighbors again. I would have to rest a lot this week, so my pulled muscle will heal properly.
Lorraine called to tell me about their cruise around Mexico, Panama and Columbia ending in Miami. They had a great time. Every time I really need to talk to her, she calls. We talked a long time.
When my teacher came for my lesson, he brought me 4 canaries (vases) from Kokologo where his family function was last weekend. He heard me talk about wanting some to grow flowers in on my veranda. After studying awhile, we talked about scheduling some presentations at Salo, Dana and the COGES meeting. Minata brought over benga and millet for us to eat before Georges left for home. The neighbor kids sat on my porch with me and they told me Moore' words for the animals we all know.
Tuesday- (Talaato)
There were a lot of people outside today and workers came to resurface the outside of our house. It was an interesting process. Fine red sand was put through a screen, then mustard colored powder was mixed with that and finally a white cement powder was added and mixed together carefully with water. The workers used a hand-held sprayer that spun the mixture out when one turned the handle. I noticed someone had nailed together a new ladder for this work. All day the workers labored, completing three sides of the house.
My friend Awa from Villa came by for a visit. We practiced my Moore' expressions. I made us pork sandwiches, but she did not eat the pork (she is probably Muslim). She likes to look at my family pictures and I had some new ones of Tabor and his mother and father. She wanted Chris' phone number for an American contact, but I told her I would have to get his permission.
Georges and his brother came on Maxime's moto with things from the marche' that I needed. We had a lesson (numbers, greetings, conjugations and reading) outside today as the workers were busy on the house. When Maxime returned to pick up Georges I asked him about the sermon he was working on last time I talked with him, and he said it went well. He is on a short break from seminary after all the work of Easter. He is returning now to Fara, where he lives and studies.
Wednesday-(Arba)
By 8am the workers were painting the fourth exterior wall in the back of our house, then they snapped a line to put a 1' border of black paint on the bottom and top. Next Issaka made plywood symbols used as stencils to adorn the top of the walls with a moon, stars, and an airplane. He said it was the plane that brought me here from America. The main painter, Issa was awesome and agile. (See photos.) Minata made the workers Riz Gras for lunch. I gave everyone a power bar.
When Garrett stopped by for a visit we watched a whirlwind go by the house. Scarey! I had my language class outside again because of the painting project. Minata brought over to' and sauce for us, and we played cards with Abdulaye until dark. We love playing Uno together.
Thursday-Lamusa
I decided my pulled muscle was enough better that I could walk to CSPS today and resume some activities. When I got to the accoucheuse's house, Pierette was sitting on the porch with two teachers from Sala Elementary bidding her goodbye, because she had taken a new job as midwife at the CSPS in Koudougou. There is a new accoucheuse coming to Sala soon. I asked her about my teaching the new mothers and she said Monday and Thursday are when it can happen every week.
After greeting the pharmacist Adama, I found Gansonre and Gilbert, both seemed very happy to see me. They each were working with a infirmier stagierre (nurse in training). There were 5 women there with babies to weigh today. I got to do one for Gilbert.
I walked down by the road to the restaurant, where Ramata gave me an igname (potato) to eat. I took pictures of Ramata and her six kids. Everyone works in the family business. (See photo.)
The temp is 105 degrees today, so an afternoon repose was welcome. So were several bucket rinses. I had my regular language class with dialogue, greetings, vocabulary and translation of Moore' into French. I read from the two Moore' readers too. I asked Georges if we could have my lesson tomorrow under a tree at the market as I would be walking there. We decided the interruptions would be difficult there, so we compromised on a tree at the barrage instead. That night I read about the Boston Strangler in a novel called “A Death on Belmont”. Interesting!
Friday- Arziima
On this day I wanted to visit the headmaster at Sala Elementary, so I got together some of the school supplies my American friends have been sending and walked to the school. I also took the email from Lindsay's teacher inviting correspondence between the two groups of students, American and African. Edward was in his classroom with another teacher and we spent some time talking about this request. I told him I would send the letters to America and that I was going to Ouaga the end of April, when I could mail them. Everyone seems excited about the idea.
On my way home I stopped in a quartier across from the school, Ouedraogo Gamsin. His younger brother is the gentleman who talked with me in Moore' last week at the boutique. Two young men who spoke both French and English also spoke with me. Issaka asked for a soccer ball, which I will get in Ouaga when I go. Soccer (football) is the main sport in Africa.
As I passed by the CSPS the major was walking to his car and greeted me warmly and we talked about my three weeks of training. Then he introduced me to the new stagierres, Madeleine and Celine. I observed a couple patients being treated for Palu before going home to rest. The major offered me a ride as far as the mosque on my way to marche' at noon.
I was happy to be back at the marche' because it is central to life in Burkina and to me now. I visited with the boutiquierre, Adama for awhile before going behind his block to the marche'. Next I found Jean Baptiste, who made me a small sachet of pork with pima. I bought bread. I hung out with Marie at the church's hangar for some time. Presently Georges and Laurentine showed up and she and I went to get her shoes repaired. When we came back Georges was surrounded by friends. We sat and visited over dolo.
When it was lesson time, George rode me behind on his bike a short ways. We found a big old tree to sit under. School children enroute home stood and watched our lesson. Pretty soon it was getting dark and Georges insisted on walking me home. Minata came over to visit. I told Georges I would see him at Sunday Mass.
Saturday-Siibri
Today the weather feels heavy, a little wind that blows hot. The morning temp is 90. By evening that would increase to 108! hottest day yet. A man hired to paint the trim on all the metal leuvres was outside working and the fumes made it intolerable inside. So I sat outside a fair amount, visiting with Abdulaye's father, Ousmane. During the afternoon Gerard (Minata's brother and my carpenter) came by with my padded footstool and also to hang some things for me. He put a clothesline up in my bedroom. That night I pulled out my tent for the first time since Fall.
Sunday-Hato
This would be the first time on my bike, so when Zanabou and I rode to church we went early and slow. Jean Baptiste led the services and a girl led the choir. I later learned that Georges had laryngitis and couldn't. The service was long, and several gentlemen got up to speak about fund drive for a new building at the conclusion. Claude found me and took me to his mother, who was serving dolo near the church office under a hangar. Zanabou seems to like the church services. On the way home we went to the boutique in Thyou and got biscuits and a bigger mat for sleeping on the porch. It is still very hot, morning temp 90 and by afternoon 109. I walked over to the chef's quartier and gave him tea from Portland and Vitamin C drink packets. He in turn gave me pintard eggs! He is very pleasant.
After repose I decided to find COGES people who live past the school. I asked at the pump by the school, and a woman pointed East. Later on that path I asked a woman on a cart and she said “keep going”. I came to a quartier and a woman told me Mocktar lives there alright, but he went to Thyou today. A man I have seen often in and around Sala took me to the next compound where Saidou the COGES president lives. Saidou was there and sitting outside. Luckily two young men were also present who spoke French and some English. They helped me tell Saidou about my planned presentations in Salo and Dana. I invited a COGES member to come along. It proved a successful venture. When I go ahead and try something I'm a little anxious about, it often turns out this way.
That night my neighbor girls slept on my porch on the new mat, while I slept in my tent. Fun!
Continued...
14-04-08
Stephanie S. arrived on transport from Gao (30K away) before 8am to visit for a day. When I got ready we went to CSPS to greet the staff. Gansonre invited us to observe a spinal tap procedure. I held the baby's head while Gilbert held her limbs. The fluid came out clear so no meningitis. They ruled that out before treating her for malaria. Before we left the room though, the nurse said that a baby just died in the main room where all the beds are. We saw the baby on the bed with the mother as Gansonre checked for vital signs. Then he covered her head with the pagne she was wrapped in. For me it was surreal as no one was crying. Gansonre was out of the room a few minutes, came back, wrapped the baby and carried it to a back room with the parents behind him. A short time passed and they returned to the main room. I touched the mother on her shoulder as I left CSPS. I can't imagine the loss!
Stephanie and I readied for a trip to the Thyou marche'. We left our bikes out in front of the boutique in Thyou where I always leave mine, and Augustine watches it for me. We went to the produce section and bought local bread, lettuce and mangoes, then found the lady that makes a fresh salad for your lunch. We enjoyed it under an awning nearby to sit in some shade while we ate. Next we found a merchant who sells pagnes so Stephanie could buy a couple, and I found a flowing curtain for my douche entrance. Marie was our guide, who also took us back to the church hangar for dolo before we biked back home. We took my new mat out under a grove of trees and rested and talked. It was too hot in my house.
At lesson time, Georges and I sat behind my house in the shade and practiced Moore', then my next presentation. We fixed the flip charts too. At dinner time Stephanie made Sangria with fresh fruit and I made a tuna salad. We sat on the porch to eat, and Minata came over to visit Steph about how much she misses Julie, the past volunteer, who lived in this house. Then we fixed our beds for the night, both sleeping on the porch under the stars. This happened to be the night the video place was having a dance which lasted until 3 in the morning, and we fell asleep despite the loud music from there.
15-04-08
Stephanie wanted to be on the road early before the sun got up very high, before 6. I made her a sandwich to go, and Minata came over to say goodbye. I got my things together to leave at 7:30am for Salo when Georges came. As we headed up the path to Salo we were joined by a young COGES member Ouedraogo Karim, who speaks both French and Moore'. The 8K trip is 45 minutes top. When we arrived there we went directly to the school. All the classes were doing a gymnastics exam, and Daniel one of the teachers came over and asked if we could come back later to which we agreed. We cruised through the marche' and went onto the village chef's compound to let him know what our agenda was. Minata had sent a gift of lettuce for the chef's wife and we delivered that. This very friendly chef was teasing and asked to marry me. I said “Oh no, once was enough for me!” All the people watching laughed.
Back at the marche' we sat under a big tree while one man, the town crier, went off recruiting an audience for us. We took the interlude as an opportunity to return to the school to give the staff the school supplies and two contact names from Harmony Elementary at home. Within 20 minutes we returned to the big tree where enough people were present that we began our presentation to 35 women and about 15 men. Again I presented in French and Georges translated into Moore'. Karim took the men's group and Georges took the women's group as they decided their five top health issues. We sifted through those results to come up with the common ones. When we paired them against each other for the people to vote, the discussions became lively. It was clear that Palu (malaria)was going to be the principal maladie, but for a long time they debated tension vs meningitis, so we gave each a standing. One older woman was complaining about her legs, and I took her hand and invited her to join me as I finished asking the three questions and giving a conclusion That worked well as she still garnered some attention. Counting time for refreshments we finished in 1h 30m. They seemed genuinely appreciative. We wanted to eat but the food in the marche' was finished. We went home and hung out.
That evening as I sat on the front porch I saw fires in the distance, Abdoulaye told me that they were from the villagers harvesting sugar from trees by boring holes in the trunk. They were very high up in the tree to do this, as the sparks were falling to the ground 20-30 plus feet up. I would like to see how they get the sugar down from there. There are some cultural traditions that preclude my getting that close I gather.
The next day I took it easy between two days of biking to petite villages. Plus the weather was changing. When I went to Thyou to get local bread it probably rained ten drops on me. I spent time visiting my neighbors down by the road. I read in the afternoon. And by evening the clouds gathered in the sky.
17-04-08
After I was up a while Issaka brought over Harouna, a guy who plans to take pagnes and briefcases to America next year to merchandise at small shops there. We talked about that possibility.
On the way to Dana I passed our school at Sala where a lot of excitement was in the air. There was a game of soccer going on and everyone was into it. I soon learned in Dana 10K away that their school was the competition for the Sala students, so my visit to their school would have to wait.
I went to the marche' where the vaccinations were being given by Philippe and Madeline. They said Gansonre was in Dayolo. I also conversed with the two ASCs, Bitiou and Babou there. Soon the nurse packed up to go back to Sala, saying the vaccinations were done. No sooner had they left than more women came. About an hour went by when Gansonre stopped there on his return trip. He vaccinated a number of children.
I found pork sandwich at the marche' with pima, it was an excellent lunch. We talked about next Wednesday when I will return for presentation. The woman serving ignames at her hangar told me excitedly that she was at Salo last week when we presented there. Dr. Claude called and said she will come for site visit next Wed and watch the presentation. I was only a short distance down the road home when the major stopped and picked me up in his car. That is always a welcome treat. I told him we would come over tomorrow and share our experience from presenting in Salo.
18-04-08
I went to the clinic this morning and discovered they were doing vaccinations under the tree in front with both RNs, Gansonre and Philippe, also Madeline. There were 20 women at one point sitting on the logs with babies waiting their turn. (See photo.) Three of them were my neighbors in my courtyard. The major arrived at clinic and greeted everyone. I scheduled a time to talk about Salo with him.
I ate at the restaurant by the road, rice with tomato sauce. When I got home in the afternoon the morning temp which was 86 degrees was up to 108. The humidity was up too. I had a bucket bath and a nap in that order. When my language teacher came, we pedaled to the clinic to discuss our Salo presentation experience with the major. We shared the success of that petite village sensibilization and also discussed the one we will do next Wednesday at Dana when Dr. Claude comes for observation and site visit. He agreed to inform Karim and Gansonre about this. We came back home for my language lesson, which consisted of the dialog, now memorized in French and working on Moore'. I had work on “etre” (to be) and pronouns, a word list and then translating French into Moore'.
Sampoko brought us “Ne pas pret dolo” and Georges really laughed about my expression.
Sally called and we spoke for an hour about things already sent, and things to send, about the cost of mail, the fabric here, the religious devotion of Burkinabe' and of course the weather. She has been able to get into my blog and sometimes the pictures. In every box she sends a homemade baby quilt.
We sat on the porch and played Uno with Abdoulaye until 8:30pm. After that I set up my tent there. We watched the activity down by the road where the men were boring into a big old tree for sugar. We could see sparks flying toward the ground from 40-50 ft up the trunk. With my binoculars I could see the process a little better. About 10pm the winds started up, but even that did not deter the honey harvesters. By midnight the wind was at full gale and I took my tent inside.
The night was one of wind and dust blowing throughout. The temp the next morning was around 86 degrees. I got ready to go to Bolo 13 K in the bush with my neighbor boy as my guide. We stopped by the garden next to the barrage, but Minata had been there and was gone, so I will stop on the way back for lettuce. We biked to the school at Bolo first and passed a huge beautiful Baobob Tree right before the school. There were three classrooms in the school with three teachers each teaching two levels. One teacher requested French primers, when I asked what they need. They all were very pleased with the school supplies I brought them thanks to my support network back in America.
Abdoulaye and I went back to the marche' in Bolo and sat under a hangar, waiting for the major to arrive from a farther village, Bouyou. He came at 11am and so did the women and babies. The nurse Celine gave all the shots while the major wrote medical notes. One of the moms came with twins, but they ran out of the newborn shots, so she will have to return next month for them. The ASC Babou was there and agreed to help with my presentation next month at the first marche'. When vaccinations were done the major and nurse stagierre tried to leave for Sala but they had a flat tire on the moto.
Abdoulaye and I left for home. We got close to the garden and went there to get the lettuce. When we returned to the path, there sat the major and Celine with the same tire flat again (encore). He was carrying a big piler (grinder) on the back of his moto too. They had called Gansonre for help. We pedaled on home. When I rested a bit, I went out back where there was a game of football (soccer) going on. See photos.
20-04-08
This Sunday morning I got ready to go to church with my neighbor girl Zanabou. The service was long, the chant was excellent and led by Georges. The drummers were very good. We stopped for bread on the way to church and stopped at the marche' on the way back. By then we were visiting with Georges' family at the marche'. Zanabou and the girls went off to buy my tomatoes and onions, while we talked with others, Eduard, who sings at church, and Marie and Bazile and made a date for Uno and dinner on May 4. But today I was having Georges, Laurentine, and the girls, Carmel and Reine, over to dinner.
Georges gave his family his bike to use and we set out for home on the bikes. We settled in for the afternoon, as we looked through some pictures. Then I gave the girls some things to play with. Laurentine and I prepared the lettuce for a big salad, and the French bread to fry with garlic. We fried one pan when I ran out of propane gas. I contacted the major, who sent his son to Sabou, but when Abdoulaye arrived there, they were out too. So we would have to go to Plan B, which was make a meal out of the salad and garlic bread. We prepared the bisap (fruit drink) too. I took the rest of the bread over for Zanabou to prepare over the open fire.
We started a game of Uno with Garrett, Abdoulaye, my neighbor boy, Laurentine and myself. Pretty soon Georges arrived and took over someone's hand. We all had fun teasing Georges.
We had dinner around 6pm and played games until after dark. A good time was had by all. The day started at 90 degrees and ended at 106. I slept on the porch again.
21-04-08 Monday
I needed cell tell units to make phone calls and they were out in Sala so I rode towards Thyou to buy some. I rode back around the barrage at Thyou, took a different path and in 15 minutes was on a route to Salo. I started asking people and discovered my mistake. The path branches off and leads back to the CSPS in Sala so I stopped there. Already all five of the beds were filled with patients with malaria, except one child was on a clear drip, which is not for that. I went to the maternite' and met a mother with her new baby and both grandmothers were there. They wanted to talk to me.
At noon I walked over to the restaurant where Karim had benga (beans) the other day and ordered some. The woman proprietor asked if I knew her. She is Gansonre's wife, Mimouna. Out of her environment and home, I didn't recognize who this jovial woman was. By the time I got home after lunch it was already hot. I noticed I was getting a heat rash on my mid drift. That called for another bucket bath to cool down. Today started out at 90 and by afternoon reached 110 degrees.
We had my lesson under the trees in a little grove a few hundred yards from my house. I set up my tent early with Abdoulaye's help. His mom returned from her visit to Bouyou, where she chanted for a funeral. She had no voice left now.
22-04-08 Tues
I went to the cafe' stand next to the boutique in Sala for my morning coffee. When I got to the clinic, Gansonre said no one got any sleep last night because 3 babies were born. This morning he was seeing patients at the clinic with Madeline. There were 4-5 people on IV drips. I requested Gansonre to get word to Karim about the presentation at Dana on Wednesday.
At the maternite' I met the three babies and their mothers. (See photos). Three grandmothers were there too, so I took their picture. I told them I was a grandma too. When I later returned there to get the names of everyone, the fathers were there then, so I took more pictures. The babies have no names yet. That comes with baptism as I understand it.
When we had my lesson in the afternoon, Georges had prepared a new dialog about cultivating. We practiced it and my presentation for tomorrow. We went inside to make our flip charts for tomorrow. Now we were ready to leave early in the morning. I fell asleep listening to Willie Nelson on my MP3 player.
23-04-08 Wednesday
I prepared early today for both the Dana presentation and Dr. Claude's home site visit. I had quite a few things to pack, considering I would go to the school first to introduce myself and donate some supplies for the students. We three, Karim,COGES board member, Georges, my language teacher, and I joined together at the health clinic. We biked to Dana which took an hour, 10K straight south from Sala. We went to the Dana school first and met the headmaster and two teachers. We chatted a bit and then toured the classrooms, each holding two levels of students. Dr. Claude found us there and joined in greeting the students.
We next went to the marche' area where Bitiou and Babou, ASCs were waiting to help us put on the presentation. We looked for a place that would serve our needs and people could gather. We chose the backside of the marche'. We asked the ASCs for table and benches. When they came and the wind was bad, the people solved that problem by tying the table in the tree on its' end to display our flip charts. Then we waited a long time for people to arrive. The conseiller for Dana, Nebie Zila came about this time and translated into Gourounsi for the people, after Georges translated my French into Moore. (See photos.)
We began our presentation at 11:20am. During my introductions I recognized Dr. Claude Millogo from Ouaga, and the people clapped to have such an important person at their village. I acknowledged my helpers too. Then invited the villagers of Dana to help identify their main health issue, so we could together learn more about it and how to respond to it. In order to do this exercise the crowd broke out into two groups, and each one produced a list of the main health issues. We meshed the two lists and had 5 issues to work with. Using the matrix system we had them compare every two maladies and decide the more important one. When the process was completed it showed that “Maladie de L'eau” was the main issue for Dana. We counted over 60 people present for the event. (See photos.) It lasted over an hour and I gave a conclusion statement ending with “Nn Le Le Le”, and Barka Barka, thank you in Gourounsi and Moore'. The people loved that!
We all returned to Sala to meet informally with Major El Hadj. The medical staff were sitting outside. Dr. Claude told me later the major said they were lucky to have me and I have established a presence in this health district. After that Michelle the driver brought us to my house where Dr. Claude and I talked about my role here in village doing sensibilizations. She commented that the people who help me can tell the villagers reaction to what is presented and in turn the helpers are learning health from me. So that it is mutually beneficial. She agreed with my use of the ASCs and Conseillers in satellite villages and also keeping the COGES (health board) informed of all my activities. I appreciated her suggestion to use the “La Sante' Avant Tout” (health for all) book to train the school children, as they seem very open to this. She also thought regular scheduled meetings with the major would help me. It was a good site visit.
Soon there was a huge dust storm so I quickly closed the door and all the windows. For an hour or more the rain fell heavy and fast. I could hear the children outside playing in the rain and laughing as they ran around. I thought when it cleared that it was safe to sleep outside but at 3am another storm came and I went inside for cover.
24-04-08
Around 10 I went to maternite' where they were weighing babies, and I got to do two of them. My language teacher found me there as we had planned a morning lesson. About the time we started studying Zanabou came home from the pump, saying that she had been sent home by the new nurse because he didn't recognize her as being from this village. We decided to bike over to the well by the CSPS to talk with the nurse and clear up any misunderstanding. We did talk with the two student nurses and then the nurse came there and said, no problem! After that Zanabou returned there with an adult, Aminata and had no trouble getting me water.
I asked Georges to write some notes about our presentation at Dana yesterday, which he did. We finished my lesson of dialog and some translating exercises before Georges had to leave for a meeting with his choral group, who were recognizing his birthday yesterday.
On Friday I had arranged to go to Thyou to observe Garrett teaching his classes, Mathematics and English. Each class had 70-80 teenage students in them. He introduced me to his students and asked them if any of them had seen me around Sala, and several raised their hands. He was doing variables with his math students and for some problems he demonstrated by running, speeding up and slowing down. He asked them “Is this consistent?” And they laughed. (See photos.) He uses humor well.
After that class we walked across the playground to the other building and the English class, where 75 students were waiting. Again he introduced me and one young man asked him if I was his wife. He said, “No, she is not my wife!” to which everyone laughed wildly, given the obvious age difference. When he wrote the vocabulary on the board and asked them to translate the words, often he demonstrated it, i.e. boxing, hiding, etc. (See photos.) It was so fun to watch him teach, and I always hear in the community what a good teacher Mr. Emsley is. They are lucky to have a teacher who mixes things up for them. He moves right along and one can tell he has prepared for his classes.
I searched for and found Madame Kiemte's house in Thyou before I left there that morning. I wanted to pay a visit to my friend, whom I had met on the taxi brousse on my last ride up to Ouaga. Alas she was not home. I stopped by the clinic, which was not busy. I offered Gansonre my MP3 player while I am gone to Ouaga this weekend and he was happy about hearing my music. I went home to get it and some school supplies to drop off at Sala Elementary. The headmaster had written the American teacher Ms. Stolberg a letter in French, so I will have my teacher help me translate it into English so I can mail it this weekend. We had my last lesson that afternoon and I paid my tutor 30 mille for April. He offered to bring a rubber strap to tie my luggage on my bike so I can get to the Shell station in the morning to catch the taxi brousse to Ouaga.
26-04-08 A day I won't forget!
While we waited for the taxi brousse to arrive, a man was there selling herbs for ailments. Georges bought remedies for headaches, teeth problems for his father, and stomach problems for his mother. The other unusual thing was that a log had fallen off a camion as it passed us on the way to the station. Georges took it home on his bike that morning as we left for Ouaga. Two hours later I was in Ouaga, getting a taxi to the transit house, dropped off my stuff and headed to the PC bureau. I wanted to stop by the post office/bank to get money, so I turned right on the main road and then left into the poste. I had looked over my left shoulder and not seeing anyone close I turned, but SMACK! I got hit from behind by a kid on a moto. I promptly landed on my backside on the street. My helmet saved me from a skull fracture I'm sure. But my derrière, OUCH! I spent the next week in the medical unit at the PC bureau, and was sent to radiology for x rays, which showed no fractures in my spine. So I was lucky in that way. Cold packs and pain medication for a week, then back to village and more rest for another two weeks. Linda was in the med unit this week too and together we had lots of company: Rob, Laurie, Lindsey, Nakeisha, Becky, Garrett, Audrey, Stephanie, and Aicha, Amade's niece, who teaches language in Ouaga at a Lycee. Before I left for home on May 5, I got a new bike helmet from the bureau staff. Unfortunately I broke a tooth that day before leaving Ouaga and had an emergency dental appt. So I will be back in two weeks for a new crown.
We are at Koudougou this week with the goal of learning more about Moore', Robert and I have JZ for our teacher at the Notre Dame Petite Seminaire. We are in one of the buildings up the hill which has 5-6 units. We began by exchanging some ideas on what to learn. We will start with some pronouns, greetings and numbers. We have both individual and group classes, plus personal study time. At my class today JZ and I practiced numbers and money. Then we talked about the special Mass his extended family had on Sunday and how there was a number of relatives at his mother's house now. So he was glad for the quiet of the seminaire.
In the morning I rode up to the main road and got an omelette sandwich. While I waited for it, a man played his guitar for me. He has a house full of instruments. For lunch Rob and I were in town near the poste, I showed him where the good pork place was and we got enough for sandwiches. Rob was having his “Jour de la Femme” material made into a shirt and pants near there. I was paying for a necklace the shopkeepers let me take earlier this month on credit. Three guys in that boutique were playing the drums, quite beautifully. My friend Achille came to visit me in the evening. We talked and looked at my recent pictures. It was a good visit.
01-04-08 April Fool's Day
This day was much the same classwise. I did tenses of Moore' verbs, which is pretty straight forward, not conjugated like French. At noon I went to the internet to respond to the new PC director of BF with an email regarding senior volunteers. I sent him some attachments, as I had already addressed some issues for seniors in my appeal process before coming to the PC.
Becky texted me an April Fool's msg saying she was leaving PC, which I showed to Rob, who then did the same thing to lots of volunteers and the new director. Dr. Claude called our teacher to see if Rob was OK. Manish checked in with Rob from the airport in Ouaga on his way to China. The CD told Rob that he had him going too. Some of the female volunteers didn't put it that kindly.
After our formal class, Rob and I discussed having dinner at the Conference Center. I invited Achille who met us there. We ordered their delicious salads and shared a riz gras with arachide sauce. After a relaxing meal we went to the internet before going back to the seminaire.
The next morning JZ taught Rob and I the six parts to accomplein and inaccomplein verb tenses. It was a long lesson. JZ had us write out exercises practicing with each example he gave.
When break came and the day was already hot (this is April after all) we decided to grab a sandwich and head for the outdoor pool at the Palmquiste. We read, ate and swam for several hours relaxing in this pleasant environment. (See pictures.) Then some inspectors came to check the pool, and questioned me about my tank top and shorts. They said this would be an exception, bear in mind we were the only guests there. At 2pm they closed the pool because the University had it reserved for a class.
JZ taught me numbers 50,000 francs and above. We went over everyday language and I practiced making up sentences. He said our medical terms we want to learn will happen on Friday as he has an appointment Thursday. He wants my French/Moore teacher to text him for a meeting time to discuss my learning style, etc. I had told him that Georges was coming to KDG for business.
The younger volunteers were going to dinner, but I passed on that as I had already spent one mille going swimming and Achille was coming over to look at my blog #7 so we were having another avocado sandwich together. He said that was his only meal that day, so I was glad to provide that. We went to the internet to upload pictures for Costco to print for me.
On Thursday morning I took my laundry up behind the seminaire office to have it done. After breakfast and studying, I found Melissa's place and left a note on the door. The younger volunteers were in town at the other pool (another hot day in BF). I rode by the FasoTex Industry on my way home. It is a gigantic cotton textile mill in KDG.
When I returned to the office of the seminaire, I found some cards to buy and left there for my room, when Georges arrived from Thyou pedaling to KDG in 3 hrs time. We went back to where JZ was teaching us, and he and Georges met about my language learning. I suddenly had an urge to go for water. I lingered a while.
When I came back, we texted Achille and said we were coming to his work. We had planned to go visit the Municipal grave site of Georges' baby son. First we went by Laurentine's mother's place to meet up with her brother named Georges also, as he would accompany us there. We all four rode our bikes to the Municipal Cemetery and there on the corner of the lot was a tiny mound of dirt where the grave site of Kiemtore' Jean Marc was marked by a beautiful sign my friend Achille had inscribed for them. I cried when I saw it, and couldn't keep it inside any longer. It was so difficult to see that. But as the two guys hugged and hushed me, Georges said “God gives and He takes and Jean Marc is with God.” (See pictures.)
When we returned to the relatives home, Laurentine's mother was stripping the aubergine plant stems. Georges and Achille peeled one and we all took turns eating it. It did taste good. The family served us to' (main grain in diet) and sauce. Soon we headed back to the seminaire to my next Moore' lesson. After it was over we three hung out for a while, trying out my laptop and my MP3 player. Before they left, as my fatigue was starting to show, Georges talked again about his baby's death and he indicated that Jean Mark had a blood transfusion hours before he died. They talked to the head of the unit about that. It is an unanswered question it seems.
04-04-08
One class this Friday morning on Moore' medical terms! JZ showed us how to phrase a community introduction in Moore', explaining our role, etc. Rob and I both think we will use that. As we ended our time together JZ said “You have my number, please call with questions.”
In the next hour I went up the hill for omelette sandwiches for Rob, Georges and I. We discussed the Close Of Service party in Ouaga that Rob was going to leave at noon for. He modeled his clothes the tailor in KDG made for him out of the Jour de Femme material he and I bought in Ouaga last time. They were handsome outfits. (See photos.) JZ came over to say goodbye.
I made a trip to the internet chafe, and my friend, Allasane watched me do computer work for a while. That afternoon I walked around the wonderful marche' in the center of Koudougou. At the end of his workday, I met Achille for a coke and we both waited near his work at the Gare(bus station) for Becky to arrive on the bus from Ouaga for a weekend visit. Achille and two buddies from his work helped when she arrived at 6:45pm dusk to get us all through town and down the hill to the seminaire where Becky got settled in a room. Achille and I went up to town to get some dinner and go to the internet.
On Saturday morning Becky and I ate in the relaxing mission dining room. We caught up on life in our respective villages. We pedaled to the post office to get money and used the internet there. After a couple hours of that I showed Becky around the big marche' at KDG, which she loved. We had fun bartering for fabric at one boutique. We both had the tailor hem a headscarf for us and I found christian fabric for Sally there and Becky got a shirt. We were both happy. We found the arachide woman and the artisan display where we got peanut butter and a leather jewelry case. In our browsing we happened upon the cutest little boy who was drinking water from a clear sachet and it was squirting all over his face. I took a picture of Aziz doing this.
We spent more time at the internet cafe, before going to the Conference Center for dinner and happy hour. We each got a salad and shared a riz gras. When Achille finished work he joined us and we talked about my departing for village in the morning. He will come on his brother's moto to help us because of all those boxes I have to take.
Sunday morning the boys were back at the petite seminaire after a break and were singing in church. Their voices are something to behold. Achille and I went to Mass, and Becky waited for us on her porch all the while listening to the heavenly chanting. Because the mass went long, we had to scurry to the transport station. Achille motoed ahead and Becky (25 yrs my junior) and I pedaled fast, which I later paid for with a pulled muscle above my left knee. Becky dashed over to buy us all an omelette sandwich as Achille was loading my stuff on the taxi brousse. I got aboard too. Becky handed me a sandwich through the window nearly as we pulled away. I waved goodbye to my two friends. (See photo.)
By the time we got to Sabou, I knew my leg was hurting a lot. I sat in the front of the next taxi brousse for the 15 K to Sala. Somehow they knew I would be coming, because the bigger kids were there to meet me and carried all my boxes, luggage, and walked my bike up the hill to my home. The advise of the PCMO was to wrap my leg in ace bandage, take extra Ibuprofen, and no biking for a week. That worked well.
I talked to Chris on the phone that evening to thank him for the fans he sent in time for the April heat. We also talked about the Trader Joe's foil dinner pkgs, which are perfect over rice, pasta, etc. for one person. He sent tons of batteries to run the fans and other things. I shouldn't run out for a long time. After being gone three weeks, my house was covered in a film of red dust from the winds.
07-04-08 Monday-(Tene)
Elevating my leg overnight made it possible for me to walk without pain. I went outside to greet everyone. Issaka introduced me to his brother (husband to Minata and father of her children) Ousmane who had come from Cote d' Ivoire while I was gone. Ousmane speaks a tribal language from there and Moore', but no French. It was comforting to be home and see all my neighbors again. I would have to rest a lot this week, so my pulled muscle will heal properly.
Lorraine called to tell me about their cruise around Mexico, Panama and Columbia ending in Miami. They had a great time. Every time I really need to talk to her, she calls. We talked a long time.
When my teacher came for my lesson, he brought me 4 canaries (vases) from Kokologo where his family function was last weekend. He heard me talk about wanting some to grow flowers in on my veranda. After studying awhile, we talked about scheduling some presentations at Salo, Dana and the COGES meeting. Minata brought over benga and millet for us to eat before Georges left for home. The neighbor kids sat on my porch with me and they told me Moore' words for the animals we all know.
Tuesday- (Talaato)
There were a lot of people outside today and workers came to resurface the outside of our house. It was an interesting process. Fine red sand was put through a screen, then mustard colored powder was mixed with that and finally a white cement powder was added and mixed together carefully with water. The workers used a hand-held sprayer that spun the mixture out when one turned the handle. I noticed someone had nailed together a new ladder for this work. All day the workers labored, completing three sides of the house.
My friend Awa from Villa came by for a visit. We practiced my Moore' expressions. I made us pork sandwiches, but she did not eat the pork (she is probably Muslim). She likes to look at my family pictures and I had some new ones of Tabor and his mother and father. She wanted Chris' phone number for an American contact, but I told her I would have to get his permission.
Georges and his brother came on Maxime's moto with things from the marche' that I needed. We had a lesson (numbers, greetings, conjugations and reading) outside today as the workers were busy on the house. When Maxime returned to pick up Georges I asked him about the sermon he was working on last time I talked with him, and he said it went well. He is on a short break from seminary after all the work of Easter. He is returning now to Fara, where he lives and studies.
Wednesday-(Arba)
By 8am the workers were painting the fourth exterior wall in the back of our house, then they snapped a line to put a 1' border of black paint on the bottom and top. Next Issaka made plywood symbols used as stencils to adorn the top of the walls with a moon, stars, and an airplane. He said it was the plane that brought me here from America. The main painter, Issa was awesome and agile. (See photos.) Minata made the workers Riz Gras for lunch. I gave everyone a power bar.
When Garrett stopped by for a visit we watched a whirlwind go by the house. Scarey! I had my language class outside again because of the painting project. Minata brought over to' and sauce for us, and we played cards with Abdulaye until dark. We love playing Uno together.
Thursday-Lamusa
I decided my pulled muscle was enough better that I could walk to CSPS today and resume some activities. When I got to the accoucheuse's house, Pierette was sitting on the porch with two teachers from Sala Elementary bidding her goodbye, because she had taken a new job as midwife at the CSPS in Koudougou. There is a new accoucheuse coming to Sala soon. I asked her about my teaching the new mothers and she said Monday and Thursday are when it can happen every week.
After greeting the pharmacist Adama, I found Gansonre and Gilbert, both seemed very happy to see me. They each were working with a infirmier stagierre (nurse in training). There were 5 women there with babies to weigh today. I got to do one for Gilbert.
I walked down by the road to the restaurant, where Ramata gave me an igname (potato) to eat. I took pictures of Ramata and her six kids. Everyone works in the family business. (See photo.)
The temp is 105 degrees today, so an afternoon repose was welcome. So were several bucket rinses. I had my regular language class with dialogue, greetings, vocabulary and translation of Moore' into French. I read from the two Moore' readers too. I asked Georges if we could have my lesson tomorrow under a tree at the market as I would be walking there. We decided the interruptions would be difficult there, so we compromised on a tree at the barrage instead. That night I read about the Boston Strangler in a novel called “A Death on Belmont”. Interesting!
Friday- Arziima
On this day I wanted to visit the headmaster at Sala Elementary, so I got together some of the school supplies my American friends have been sending and walked to the school. I also took the email from Lindsay's teacher inviting correspondence between the two groups of students, American and African. Edward was in his classroom with another teacher and we spent some time talking about this request. I told him I would send the letters to America and that I was going to Ouaga the end of April, when I could mail them. Everyone seems excited about the idea.
On my way home I stopped in a quartier across from the school, Ouedraogo Gamsin. His younger brother is the gentleman who talked with me in Moore' last week at the boutique. Two young men who spoke both French and English also spoke with me. Issaka asked for a soccer ball, which I will get in Ouaga when I go. Soccer (football) is the main sport in Africa.
As I passed by the CSPS the major was walking to his car and greeted me warmly and we talked about my three weeks of training. Then he introduced me to the new stagierres, Madeleine and Celine. I observed a couple patients being treated for Palu before going home to rest. The major offered me a ride as far as the mosque on my way to marche' at noon.
I was happy to be back at the marche' because it is central to life in Burkina and to me now. I visited with the boutiquierre, Adama for awhile before going behind his block to the marche'. Next I found Jean Baptiste, who made me a small sachet of pork with pima. I bought bread. I hung out with Marie at the church's hangar for some time. Presently Georges and Laurentine showed up and she and I went to get her shoes repaired. When we came back Georges was surrounded by friends. We sat and visited over dolo.
When it was lesson time, George rode me behind on his bike a short ways. We found a big old tree to sit under. School children enroute home stood and watched our lesson. Pretty soon it was getting dark and Georges insisted on walking me home. Minata came over to visit. I told Georges I would see him at Sunday Mass.
Saturday-Siibri
Today the weather feels heavy, a little wind that blows hot. The morning temp is 90. By evening that would increase to 108! hottest day yet. A man hired to paint the trim on all the metal leuvres was outside working and the fumes made it intolerable inside. So I sat outside a fair amount, visiting with Abdulaye's father, Ousmane. During the afternoon Gerard (Minata's brother and my carpenter) came by with my padded footstool and also to hang some things for me. He put a clothesline up in my bedroom. That night I pulled out my tent for the first time since Fall.
Sunday-Hato
This would be the first time on my bike, so when Zanabou and I rode to church we went early and slow. Jean Baptiste led the services and a girl led the choir. I later learned that Georges had laryngitis and couldn't. The service was long, and several gentlemen got up to speak about fund drive for a new building at the conclusion. Claude found me and took me to his mother, who was serving dolo near the church office under a hangar. Zanabou seems to like the church services. On the way home we went to the boutique in Thyou and got biscuits and a bigger mat for sleeping on the porch. It is still very hot, morning temp 90 and by afternoon 109. I walked over to the chef's quartier and gave him tea from Portland and Vitamin C drink packets. He in turn gave me pintard eggs! He is very pleasant.
After repose I decided to find COGES people who live past the school. I asked at the pump by the school, and a woman pointed East. Later on that path I asked a woman on a cart and she said “keep going”. I came to a quartier and a woman told me Mocktar lives there alright, but he went to Thyou today. A man I have seen often in and around Sala took me to the next compound where Saidou the COGES president lives. Saidou was there and sitting outside. Luckily two young men were also present who spoke French and some English. They helped me tell Saidou about my planned presentations in Salo and Dana. I invited a COGES member to come along. It proved a successful venture. When I go ahead and try something I'm a little anxious about, it often turns out this way.
That night my neighbor girls slept on my porch on the new mat, while I slept in my tent. Fun!
Continued...
14-04-08
Stephanie S. arrived on transport from Gao (30K away) before 8am to visit for a day. When I got ready we went to CSPS to greet the staff. Gansonre invited us to observe a spinal tap procedure. I held the baby's head while Gilbert held her limbs. The fluid came out clear so no meningitis. They ruled that out before treating her for malaria. Before we left the room though, the nurse said that a baby just died in the main room where all the beds are. We saw the baby on the bed with the mother as Gansonre checked for vital signs. Then he covered her head with the pagne she was wrapped in. For me it was surreal as no one was crying. Gansonre was out of the room a few minutes, came back, wrapped the baby and carried it to a back room with the parents behind him. A short time passed and they returned to the main room. I touched the mother on her shoulder as I left CSPS. I can't imagine the loss!
Stephanie and I readied for a trip to the Thyou marche'. We left our bikes out in front of the boutique in Thyou where I always leave mine, and Augustine watches it for me. We went to the produce section and bought local bread, lettuce and mangoes, then found the lady that makes a fresh salad for your lunch. We enjoyed it under an awning nearby to sit in some shade while we ate. Next we found a merchant who sells pagnes so Stephanie could buy a couple, and I found a flowing curtain for my douche entrance. Marie was our guide, who also took us back to the church hangar for dolo before we biked back home. We took my new mat out under a grove of trees and rested and talked. It was too hot in my house.
At lesson time, Georges and I sat behind my house in the shade and practiced Moore', then my next presentation. We fixed the flip charts too. At dinner time Stephanie made Sangria with fresh fruit and I made a tuna salad. We sat on the porch to eat, and Minata came over to visit Steph about how much she misses Julie, the past volunteer, who lived in this house. Then we fixed our beds for the night, both sleeping on the porch under the stars. This happened to be the night the video place was having a dance which lasted until 3 in the morning, and we fell asleep despite the loud music from there.
15-04-08
Stephanie wanted to be on the road early before the sun got up very high, before 6. I made her a sandwich to go, and Minata came over to say goodbye. I got my things together to leave at 7:30am for Salo when Georges came. As we headed up the path to Salo we were joined by a young COGES member Ouedraogo Karim, who speaks both French and Moore'. The 8K trip is 45 minutes top. When we arrived there we went directly to the school. All the classes were doing a gymnastics exam, and Daniel one of the teachers came over and asked if we could come back later to which we agreed. We cruised through the marche' and went onto the village chef's compound to let him know what our agenda was. Minata had sent a gift of lettuce for the chef's wife and we delivered that. This very friendly chef was teasing and asked to marry me. I said “Oh no, once was enough for me!” All the people watching laughed.
Back at the marche' we sat under a big tree while one man, the town crier, went off recruiting an audience for us. We took the interlude as an opportunity to return to the school to give the staff the school supplies and two contact names from Harmony Elementary at home. Within 20 minutes we returned to the big tree where enough people were present that we began our presentation to 35 women and about 15 men. Again I presented in French and Georges translated into Moore'. Karim took the men's group and Georges took the women's group as they decided their five top health issues. We sifted through those results to come up with the common ones. When we paired them against each other for the people to vote, the discussions became lively. It was clear that Palu (malaria)was going to be the principal maladie, but for a long time they debated tension vs meningitis, so we gave each a standing. One older woman was complaining about her legs, and I took her hand and invited her to join me as I finished asking the three questions and giving a conclusion That worked well as she still garnered some attention. Counting time for refreshments we finished in 1h 30m. They seemed genuinely appreciative. We wanted to eat but the food in the marche' was finished. We went home and hung out.
That evening as I sat on the front porch I saw fires in the distance, Abdoulaye told me that they were from the villagers harvesting sugar from trees by boring holes in the trunk. They were very high up in the tree to do this, as the sparks were falling to the ground 20-30 plus feet up. I would like to see how they get the sugar down from there. There are some cultural traditions that preclude my getting that close I gather.
The next day I took it easy between two days of biking to petite villages. Plus the weather was changing. When I went to Thyou to get local bread it probably rained ten drops on me. I spent time visiting my neighbors down by the road. I read in the afternoon. And by evening the clouds gathered in the sky.
17-04-08
After I was up a while Issaka brought over Harouna, a guy who plans to take pagnes and briefcases to America next year to merchandise at small shops there. We talked about that possibility.
On the way to Dana I passed our school at Sala where a lot of excitement was in the air. There was a game of soccer going on and everyone was into it. I soon learned in Dana 10K away that their school was the competition for the Sala students, so my visit to their school would have to wait.
I went to the marche' where the vaccinations were being given by Philippe and Madeline. They said Gansonre was in Dayolo. I also conversed with the two ASCs, Bitiou and Babou there. Soon the nurse packed up to go back to Sala, saying the vaccinations were done. No sooner had they left than more women came. About an hour went by when Gansonre stopped there on his return trip. He vaccinated a number of children.
I found pork sandwich at the marche' with pima, it was an excellent lunch. We talked about next Wednesday when I will return for presentation. The woman serving ignames at her hangar told me excitedly that she was at Salo last week when we presented there. Dr. Claude called and said she will come for site visit next Wed and watch the presentation. I was only a short distance down the road home when the major stopped and picked me up in his car. That is always a welcome treat. I told him we would come over tomorrow and share our experience from presenting in Salo.
18-04-08
I went to the clinic this morning and discovered they were doing vaccinations under the tree in front with both RNs, Gansonre and Philippe, also Madeline. There were 20 women at one point sitting on the logs with babies waiting their turn. (See photo.) Three of them were my neighbors in my courtyard. The major arrived at clinic and greeted everyone. I scheduled a time to talk about Salo with him.
I ate at the restaurant by the road, rice with tomato sauce. When I got home in the afternoon the morning temp which was 86 degrees was up to 108. The humidity was up too. I had a bucket bath and a nap in that order. When my language teacher came, we pedaled to the clinic to discuss our Salo presentation experience with the major. We shared the success of that petite village sensibilization and also discussed the one we will do next Wednesday at Dana when Dr. Claude comes for observation and site visit. He agreed to inform Karim and Gansonre about this. We came back home for my language lesson, which consisted of the dialog, now memorized in French and working on Moore'. I had work on “etre” (to be) and pronouns, a word list and then translating French into Moore'.
Sampoko brought us “Ne pas pret dolo” and Georges really laughed about my expression.
Sally called and we spoke for an hour about things already sent, and things to send, about the cost of mail, the fabric here, the religious devotion of Burkinabe' and of course the weather. She has been able to get into my blog and sometimes the pictures. In every box she sends a homemade baby quilt.
We sat on the porch and played Uno with Abdoulaye until 8:30pm. After that I set up my tent there. We watched the activity down by the road where the men were boring into a big old tree for sugar. We could see sparks flying toward the ground from 40-50 ft up the trunk. With my binoculars I could see the process a little better. About 10pm the winds started up, but even that did not deter the honey harvesters. By midnight the wind was at full gale and I took my tent inside.
The night was one of wind and dust blowing throughout. The temp the next morning was around 86 degrees. I got ready to go to Bolo 13 K in the bush with my neighbor boy as my guide. We stopped by the garden next to the barrage, but Minata had been there and was gone, so I will stop on the way back for lettuce. We biked to the school at Bolo first and passed a huge beautiful Baobob Tree right before the school. There were three classrooms in the school with three teachers each teaching two levels. One teacher requested French primers, when I asked what they need. They all were very pleased with the school supplies I brought them thanks to my support network back in America.
Abdoulaye and I went back to the marche' in Bolo and sat under a hangar, waiting for the major to arrive from a farther village, Bouyou. He came at 11am and so did the women and babies. The nurse Celine gave all the shots while the major wrote medical notes. One of the moms came with twins, but they ran out of the newborn shots, so she will have to return next month for them. The ASC Babou was there and agreed to help with my presentation next month at the first marche'. When vaccinations were done the major and nurse stagierre tried to leave for Sala but they had a flat tire on the moto.
Abdoulaye and I left for home. We got close to the garden and went there to get the lettuce. When we returned to the path, there sat the major and Celine with the same tire flat again (encore). He was carrying a big piler (grinder) on the back of his moto too. They had called Gansonre for help. We pedaled on home. When I rested a bit, I went out back where there was a game of football (soccer) going on. See photos.
20-04-08
This Sunday morning I got ready to go to church with my neighbor girl Zanabou. The service was long, the chant was excellent and led by Georges. The drummers were very good. We stopped for bread on the way to church and stopped at the marche' on the way back. By then we were visiting with Georges' family at the marche'. Zanabou and the girls went off to buy my tomatoes and onions, while we talked with others, Eduard, who sings at church, and Marie and Bazile and made a date for Uno and dinner on May 4. But today I was having Georges, Laurentine, and the girls, Carmel and Reine, over to dinner.
Georges gave his family his bike to use and we set out for home on the bikes. We settled in for the afternoon, as we looked through some pictures. Then I gave the girls some things to play with. Laurentine and I prepared the lettuce for a big salad, and the French bread to fry with garlic. We fried one pan when I ran out of propane gas. I contacted the major, who sent his son to Sabou, but when Abdoulaye arrived there, they were out too. So we would have to go to Plan B, which was make a meal out of the salad and garlic bread. We prepared the bisap (fruit drink) too. I took the rest of the bread over for Zanabou to prepare over the open fire.
We started a game of Uno with Garrett, Abdoulaye, my neighbor boy, Laurentine and myself. Pretty soon Georges arrived and took over someone's hand. We all had fun teasing Georges.
We had dinner around 6pm and played games until after dark. A good time was had by all. The day started at 90 degrees and ended at 106. I slept on the porch again.
21-04-08 Monday
I needed cell tell units to make phone calls and they were out in Sala so I rode towards Thyou to buy some. I rode back around the barrage at Thyou, took a different path and in 15 minutes was on a route to Salo. I started asking people and discovered my mistake. The path branches off and leads back to the CSPS in Sala so I stopped there. Already all five of the beds were filled with patients with malaria, except one child was on a clear drip, which is not for that. I went to the maternite' and met a mother with her new baby and both grandmothers were there. They wanted to talk to me.
At noon I walked over to the restaurant where Karim had benga (beans) the other day and ordered some. The woman proprietor asked if I knew her. She is Gansonre's wife, Mimouna. Out of her environment and home, I didn't recognize who this jovial woman was. By the time I got home after lunch it was already hot. I noticed I was getting a heat rash on my mid drift. That called for another bucket bath to cool down. Today started out at 90 and by afternoon reached 110 degrees.
We had my lesson under the trees in a little grove a few hundred yards from my house. I set up my tent early with Abdoulaye's help. His mom returned from her visit to Bouyou, where she chanted for a funeral. She had no voice left now.
22-04-08 Tues
I went to the cafe' stand next to the boutique in Sala for my morning coffee. When I got to the clinic, Gansonre said no one got any sleep last night because 3 babies were born. This morning he was seeing patients at the clinic with Madeline. There were 4-5 people on IV drips. I requested Gansonre to get word to Karim about the presentation at Dana on Wednesday.
At the maternite' I met the three babies and their mothers. (See photos). Three grandmothers were there too, so I took their picture. I told them I was a grandma too. When I later returned there to get the names of everyone, the fathers were there then, so I took more pictures. The babies have no names yet. That comes with baptism as I understand it.
When we had my lesson in the afternoon, Georges had prepared a new dialog about cultivating. We practiced it and my presentation for tomorrow. We went inside to make our flip charts for tomorrow. Now we were ready to leave early in the morning. I fell asleep listening to Willie Nelson on my MP3 player.
23-04-08 Wednesday
I prepared early today for both the Dana presentation and Dr. Claude's home site visit. I had quite a few things to pack, considering I would go to the school first to introduce myself and donate some supplies for the students. We three, Karim,COGES board member, Georges, my language teacher, and I joined together at the health clinic. We biked to Dana which took an hour, 10K straight south from Sala. We went to the Dana school first and met the headmaster and two teachers. We chatted a bit and then toured the classrooms, each holding two levels of students. Dr. Claude found us there and joined in greeting the students.
We next went to the marche' area where Bitiou and Babou, ASCs were waiting to help us put on the presentation. We looked for a place that would serve our needs and people could gather. We chose the backside of the marche'. We asked the ASCs for table and benches. When they came and the wind was bad, the people solved that problem by tying the table in the tree on its' end to display our flip charts. Then we waited a long time for people to arrive. The conseiller for Dana, Nebie Zila came about this time and translated into Gourounsi for the people, after Georges translated my French into Moore. (See photos.)
We began our presentation at 11:20am. During my introductions I recognized Dr. Claude Millogo from Ouaga, and the people clapped to have such an important person at their village. I acknowledged my helpers too. Then invited the villagers of Dana to help identify their main health issue, so we could together learn more about it and how to respond to it. In order to do this exercise the crowd broke out into two groups, and each one produced a list of the main health issues. We meshed the two lists and had 5 issues to work with. Using the matrix system we had them compare every two maladies and decide the more important one. When the process was completed it showed that “Maladie de L'eau” was the main issue for Dana. We counted over 60 people present for the event. (See photos.) It lasted over an hour and I gave a conclusion statement ending with “Nn Le Le Le”, and Barka Barka, thank you in Gourounsi and Moore'. The people loved that!
We all returned to Sala to meet informally with Major El Hadj. The medical staff were sitting outside. Dr. Claude told me later the major said they were lucky to have me and I have established a presence in this health district. After that Michelle the driver brought us to my house where Dr. Claude and I talked about my role here in village doing sensibilizations. She commented that the people who help me can tell the villagers reaction to what is presented and in turn the helpers are learning health from me. So that it is mutually beneficial. She agreed with my use of the ASCs and Conseillers in satellite villages and also keeping the COGES (health board) informed of all my activities. I appreciated her suggestion to use the “La Sante' Avant Tout” (health for all) book to train the school children, as they seem very open to this. She also thought regular scheduled meetings with the major would help me. It was a good site visit.
Soon there was a huge dust storm so I quickly closed the door and all the windows. For an hour or more the rain fell heavy and fast. I could hear the children outside playing in the rain and laughing as they ran around. I thought when it cleared that it was safe to sleep outside but at 3am another storm came and I went inside for cover.
24-04-08
Around 10 I went to maternite' where they were weighing babies, and I got to do two of them. My language teacher found me there as we had planned a morning lesson. About the time we started studying Zanabou came home from the pump, saying that she had been sent home by the new nurse because he didn't recognize her as being from this village. We decided to bike over to the well by the CSPS to talk with the nurse and clear up any misunderstanding. We did talk with the two student nurses and then the nurse came there and said, no problem! After that Zanabou returned there with an adult, Aminata and had no trouble getting me water.
I asked Georges to write some notes about our presentation at Dana yesterday, which he did. We finished my lesson of dialog and some translating exercises before Georges had to leave for a meeting with his choral group, who were recognizing his birthday yesterday.
On Friday I had arranged to go to Thyou to observe Garrett teaching his classes, Mathematics and English. Each class had 70-80 teenage students in them. He introduced me to his students and asked them if any of them had seen me around Sala, and several raised their hands. He was doing variables with his math students and for some problems he demonstrated by running, speeding up and slowing down. He asked them “Is this consistent?” And they laughed. (See photos.) He uses humor well.
After that class we walked across the playground to the other building and the English class, where 75 students were waiting. Again he introduced me and one young man asked him if I was his wife. He said, “No, she is not my wife!” to which everyone laughed wildly, given the obvious age difference. When he wrote the vocabulary on the board and asked them to translate the words, often he demonstrated it, i.e. boxing, hiding, etc. (See photos.) It was so fun to watch him teach, and I always hear in the community what a good teacher Mr. Emsley is. They are lucky to have a teacher who mixes things up for them. He moves right along and one can tell he has prepared for his classes.
I searched for and found Madame Kiemte's house in Thyou before I left there that morning. I wanted to pay a visit to my friend, whom I had met on the taxi brousse on my last ride up to Ouaga. Alas she was not home. I stopped by the clinic, which was not busy. I offered Gansonre my MP3 player while I am gone to Ouaga this weekend and he was happy about hearing my music. I went home to get it and some school supplies to drop off at Sala Elementary. The headmaster had written the American teacher Ms. Stolberg a letter in French, so I will have my teacher help me translate it into English so I can mail it this weekend. We had my last lesson that afternoon and I paid my tutor 30 mille for April. He offered to bring a rubber strap to tie my luggage on my bike so I can get to the Shell station in the morning to catch the taxi brousse to Ouaga.
26-04-08 A day I won't forget!
While we waited for the taxi brousse to arrive, a man was there selling herbs for ailments. Georges bought remedies for headaches, teeth problems for his father, and stomach problems for his mother. The other unusual thing was that a log had fallen off a camion as it passed us on the way to the station. Georges took it home on his bike that morning as we left for Ouaga. Two hours later I was in Ouaga, getting a taxi to the transit house, dropped off my stuff and headed to the PC bureau. I wanted to stop by the post office/bank to get money, so I turned right on the main road and then left into the poste. I had looked over my left shoulder and not seeing anyone close I turned, but SMACK! I got hit from behind by a kid on a moto. I promptly landed on my backside on the street. My helmet saved me from a skull fracture I'm sure. But my derrière, OUCH! I spent the next week in the medical unit at the PC bureau, and was sent to radiology for x rays, which showed no fractures in my spine. So I was lucky in that way. Cold packs and pain medication for a week, then back to village and more rest for another two weeks. Linda was in the med unit this week too and together we had lots of company: Rob, Laurie, Lindsey, Nakeisha, Becky, Garrett, Audrey, Stephanie, and Aicha, Amade's niece, who teaches language in Ouaga at a Lycee. Before I left for home on May 5, I got a new bike helmet from the bureau staff. Unfortunately I broke a tooth that day before leaving Ouaga and had an emergency dental appt. So I will be back in two weeks for a new crown.
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