African Adventure 10

06-May-08 Return to Village

For a more comfortable ride than the taxi brousse, I was driven to my village by a Peace Corps driver, Michelle, who is Dr. Claude's niece. I was able to bring my pkgs and medical supplies, as well as make a couple stops on the way to send mail and pick up music cassettes. It was a warm reception, as many people in my quartier (compound) visited me on my first day home. Georges and Laurentine came with a meal of fish and condiments and bread. They said they had been over frequently while I was gone, to check on my return date.

One evening Minata prepared my spaghetti because I still have no propane for cooking. I had problems with the temp repair of my broken tooth, and that prompted a call to the medical unit. Sylvie checked with the PC to see if my crown would be made here or in Dakar, Senegal where PC in western Africa has a contract for specialized dental care. In either case I will return to Ouaga in three weeks for that. The major and Gansonre came for a visit and we made plans for refilling my propane tank that afternoon. Adama the pharmacist stopped by briefly. Then the two new female nurses in training came over. They work here at Sala until May 30 when they return to their schooling in KDG.

When my teacher came the first time for my lesson, we reviewed the student letters I was translating into French and made corrections. That same evening Issaka from the Gannsin quartier came for the soccer ball I bought him in Ouaga for the guys in his family.

My friends and family from America called to check on me. My classmates are doing a reunion, so I got news from Lorraine and Sally regarding our fellow graduates, complete with the health update on all. That topic gets nearer and dearer with age obviously.

The next weekend my KDG friend Achille came for a visit. We sat outside a while, trying to relax in the heat. When we did go inside to have dinner, Abdoulaye was over and the major's son, Ousmane, joined us in playing Uno. Achille was so tired he kept falling asleep, so I urged him to lay down. Georges came by and played cards too. Minata came over to visit about this time. By 11pm when everyone left, I could retire on my lipico and was asleep in seconds.

The next morning Achille and I walked to the CSPS to visit the major, after which we walked to the diminished Sala barrage. Achille talked about his family, particularly his brother Seraphine who is visiting a friend in France for a month. His father was Muslim and had four wives, then married Achille's mother and became Catholic. I asked how the women deal with their feelings toward one another when there are multiple wives. His response was that in many families it does present problems. He also talked about why he won't drink. When he was very young, he drank dolo and was staggering and fell over. He can't shake the bad memory. On our way back, we passed the big tree at the foot of the hill from me and we visited with the village chef there. Under the hangar at home, Minata was husking yellow chunks of powdery stuff. We sat there and chatted a long time. We discussed when I go over to KDG the next time, Minata wants me to buy her cabbage, onion and tomato seeds for her garden near the barrage and Achille will show me where to get them.

Achille loaded up on batteries and tie downs plus a sack lunch and headed out for home late morning. I had a nap and was ready for the 30 minute walk to the marche' via the Thyou barrage. It was warm and sunny when I left, but after minutes of passing the barrage, a dust storm suddenly was within seconds of my route. People shouted for me to take cover. I got into a hangar where a family was standing too, when the heavy rains started. Two guys from their boutique came and ushered me over there, which was more protected (no open sides). I waited an hour, then people resumed their regular routines. It is interesting to observe how in tune with the weather, Burkinabe' people are. Even the kids can tell when the weather is going to change.

I started shopping for vegetables at the market, when Connie and Michael called me. She's definitely coming at Xmas, and depending on Michael's work he may be able to come. Angie called to wish me Happy Mother's Day, and talk about my never ending list. I bought some fresh fruit and veggies, then pork for a sandwich and joined some of our friends at the church hangar. George walked me home, because it was getting dusk. Before I got there, Heather called too. She has two job interviews in Portland this week, but last week she flew to Santa Clara for her first interview. She has begun her shots in view of her planned visit to me this Fall. She will make final decision after her job prospects level out.

Mid-May Doug Teschner the BF Peace Corps Director phoned me to express empathy regarding my accident, as he had been out of the country the past two weeks. He also called to say the American Ambassador wants to visit me this coming Saturday with her husband. They like weekend outings I understand. She will bring lunch.

Since I had translated all the American student letters into French, and had made 2 copies, I had an envelope of letters for Sala, Zao, and Salou. I took the first batch over to Sala elementary and gave them to the headmaster Edouard. He explained that the CP1 students can draw, but don't write until they reach CM1 level. I suggested having the CP1 students draw a picture and the CM1 students write a letter in response to the American student letters. He will collect them and bring them to me before I go to Ouaga next week, when I can send them.

While I was brushing my teeth, my broken tooth came clear out. Nothing keeps one humbler than a missing tooth!

On Saturday, 17 May I did receive a phone call from Jeanine Jackson that they were enroute, and within the hour she and Mark pulled up in their 4X4 with the English steering. They had been all over Africa in this blue Land Rover, and it had a pop out tent up on the roof. Quite exciting! Swarms of kids and animals appeared. After the initial introductions to the leaders of my quartiers, Salam and Amadou, and Ousmane, my landlady's husband, we went inside to have our picnic lunch. That consisted of sandwiches, fruit salad, hummus with pita, fresh strawberries and sodas. I learned they met in Germany in the foreign service. They have been in Africa on three or four assignments, and Kenya stole their heart for perfect climate, altitude, etc. In Mali, the Dogon Country is their recommendation for taking ones' visitors. They suggest hiring Omar to guide the hike.

My language trainer came later and they both enjoyed talking to him, as they speak good French and some Moore'. Being the seasoned diplomat, Jeanine inquired about my work before Peace Corps, and said Mark's sister was in similar child welfare work. We went outside for some photo shots before walking over to the chef's compound to render a visit. The animals, donkeys and roosters fascinated Mark. (See photos.)

After a couple hours the American Ambassador and her husband left, and Georges and I walked over to CSPS to discuss with the major our upcoming causeries at Zao and Salo. He and Gansonre reviewed my written text, suggested a coupled changes and approved the content.

That evening when Minata and Abdoulaye and I were visiting, I approached the subject of Zanabou, her grandchild, attending school. I expressed that Angela and Cliff want to donate the one mille two hundred fifty francs to send her. Minata agreed to that plan. After she found out about it, Zanabou had a smile across her face that wouldn't quit.

On Sunday the hot weather returned. I was working on my presentation for Malaria in Salo for Wednesday. I took a break by biking to the CSPS to give my niece's name and address for sharing with the nurse stagierres, who want an American nurse to write to. I also wanted to test my biking ability since my accident because the distance to Zao is 15K for Monday. The major and Gansonre were there at the clinic and had found a training tool, a flip chart teaching tool with many health issues, written both in French and Moore' and cute pictures. We need the one on Diarrhea for Zao. It is exciting to find this aid.

As I continued on my trial bike ride, I passed three girls crushing millet, and stopped to chat with them. I took their photo and met some of the men at their two adjacent quartiers too. I went as far as the bridge on the other side of Sala before returning. As I passed another compound the young woman sitting outside invited me to try her cous-cous, and then wanted a photo too. She no doubt had seen me take the earlier picture across the street. As I was doing this, the major stepped out of his house behind where we were visiting. He and some of his family came over to talk. He invited me in to eat to and sauce, a staple meal in the village in BF. I was surprised because before that I had not known where the major lived. We visited and it was very pleasant.

I spent part of the afternoon sorting through my school supplies and dividing them into 5 bags to give out to the various schools when I visit their village.

19-May-08 First Causerie (chat)

The weather was cooler and perfect for the ride to Zao this morning. I put the health pictures together to construct a poster for the talk on hygiene and diarrhea. George arrived on a loner bike, after his bike chain broke again. He assisted with the captions for the pictures. We packed up our things and headed out. An hour later we were in Dana and turned left there to arrive 30 minutes later at Zao, where Gilbert and Celine, nurse in training, were doing vaccinations this morning. The ASCs Patrice and Beli came along, but there was not a crowd of people until the afternoon. Beli acted as the town crier and hollered for people to come to the causerie He went through the market and got a few people by the arms and led them over. We talked about ways to prevent diarrhea, and the audience like the demonstration on ORS (Oral Rehydration Salt) and the flip chart, because the pictures are humerus and easy to understand. Again I spoke in French, Georges in Moore', and Beli translated into Gurounsi. There were about 40 people there, with one woman, Kougo Gene, answering the questions perfectly. Afterwards we passed out biscuits and water, including the ORS to everyone.

The mother and twins I first met in the CSPS clinic were there, and the babies were in very good shape. It was heartwarming for me to see them. They asked to stop by my place sometime for a visit. My good friend Atia also was there and will visit me one day. On the way back we stopped under a Naare tree in full yellow bloom and took a photo. George sang Moore' chants on the return trip and taught me one. The major was outside in front of his house, so we debriefed with him as we passed by.

The next day I worked some more on my Malaria causerie for Wed in Salou. I went over to the clinic for a phone number to call the ASC in Salou and make sure they were set for tomorrow. Karim stopped by the clinic while I was there and then followed me over to the elementary school in Sala to give the school supplies to the headmaster. He said the students were working on the letters to America and they would have something for me by tomorrow. While we were chatting the ICP from Bolo came by and said that he and Batou will be ready next week on Wednesday, a day we are biking 9K into the bush to talk with the people of that village on the premiere health problem for their village as they see it. In the afternoon I worked some more on my Malaria talk, when the weather changed. Suddenly it was raining “cats and dogs”. A lake formed by the side of my house where two paths intersect. When my teacher came, and the rains let up we translated the presentation, and will practice it in the morning before leaving for Salou.

On Wednesday morning we packed up and started up the path behind the CSPS towards Salou. It was rutted somewhat by the rains, and a little tricky to navigate. When we got to village we went directly to the school. They were expecting us and greeted us warmly. I explained the letter exchange to the school director, and requested that he bring me the response in two weeks. Next we went to the chef's compound where he was in “devin” meeting with people about requests/issues. We waited over an hour. When he came to greet us, he said there was a funeral of a young person, and everyone was gone to that. He offered us dolo as we talked with him. The kids were playing on his spacious porch, and one of his young grandsons was particularly engaging and humming. I made a mental note to bring him one of the plastic recorders I have. We rescheduled the causerie for another day.

As we left the village Georges spotted fresh yellow powder called Naare and bought a huge sack full for 800 francs. We tied it on my bike for transport home. He parked it by the hangar outside my house and soon one of the children came in to tell him the sack sprung a leak. Minata helped with another bag and the powder was transferred. Soon he left for home with it.

Thursday morning I got ready to go to Ouaga because I had a much desired dental appointment the next day to get the prep work done for my new crown. Georges wrote a letter to Angela thanking her for sending the Timex watch I requested. He offered respect and peace to her family. He wants me to mail it when I go to town. While I am gone his daughter Reine will make her First Communion. Georges helped me get to the taxi brousse place. It was an eventful ride into the capital. Before we got out of Thyou, we stopped so the chauffeur and helper could replace a bolt on the right front wheel. After we left the junction at Sabou in less than an hour, we stopped for them to put the spare on the right rear. When we got to the next town, they stopped to get the tire repaired or replaced, which took another hour.

I got settled into my room at the Transit House, before going to the PC Bureau. On the way I waited for the post office to open and spoke to the woman in the produce stand in front of PO. She said she saw my accident last month. She said the young boy didn't see me, and as I turned he hit my rear wheel. He may have been trying to pass on my left she said. Her son came by and translated for us.

At the bureau medical clinic, Sylvie said that the muscle color on my backside has returned to normal, but it will still take a while for the lump to go down. I was able to talk with other PC staff, go on the internet, and open my US mail also. That evening everyone was going to dinner at an East Indian restaurant with a volunteer who finished service. I tried some new dishes: Samosa (deep fried triangles filled with mashed potato and meat), “Poulet la Beurre” (chicken in red spicy sauce) and India garlic bread. It was sooo delicious!

At my appointment the dentist worked on my tooth root for 2.5 hours preparing it for the new crown. It took so long because my tooth broke so close to the gum line, and he had to drill way into the root for placing a peg. They also took x rays and impressions.

I was in town where I could do some shopping before returning to TH. I bought some things. I was looking for- a long striped towel for Jodi to carry Cash like the African women do, and eventually there was a crowd of merchants trying to steer me to each of their boutiques for the purchase. It turned into a fiasco really and finally as they were arguing with each other, I hailed a taxi and left, much to their displeasure. When I had located the towel, they were fighting over whose sale it would be.

In the later afternoon the driver took me to pick up my glasses which were made in Spain and were ready. They are nice and I can see better now. The driver was kind enough to take me around to find a soccer ball for the kids in my quartier. It cost 2500 francs. We returned to the bureau where I worked on the internet a long time. Then Christina and I walked back to the TH, ordered pizza and watched the movie “Kite Runner” on Laura's laptop. She said that Manish got 20 highjacked movies when he was in China visiting his parents who live there. After reading the book I can say the movie is less than perfect because so many of his well described feelings and struggles are difficult to translate onto the screen.

Saturday morning Christina and I walked to the PCB and visited Nakeisha who was in med unit. The ambassador and her husband came by the bureau to give me a fresh supply of hummus, because they meant to leave me that on their visit. It was good to see them again. I thanked Mark for sending me pictures of their visit to Sala over the email. They were on their way to a festival of masks in a village for the day.

In the afternoon I was able to talk with Ang and catch up on the news from home. She said their nursery business is in full swing with tomato plants selling fast. Many people are planting their own vegetables this year due to the sagging economy she speculated. Cliff's mother has been in poor health so they are tending to some of her needs. I updated her on my health. I talked with her about the student letters needing translation in both directions.

Sunday morning I got up early to bathe and walk 6-8 blocks to St. Francis Church. The mass was so full I had to stand in the back of church, kind of leaning on a table when I could. Since the students had left for the summer break, the choral director led the congregation in the hymns. After Mass, the Exposition of the Blessed Sacrament began. The people got so excited when the priest processed around the inside and outside of the church, that when he re-entered, a big cheer went up for Jesus.

Then the weather changed and the wind picked up, so that by the time the service was over, it had started sprinkling. I walked about 6 blocks, when it started to pour, and literally I couldn't continue, because the street was flooding and the dirt was rutting and not easy to trasverse. I found a hangar to stand in along with several other people. One of the young men indicated he would walk me home soon, so I hung onto his elbow and we proceeded towards the Transit House four blocks away. I tipped him 500 francs and was so drenched by then and equally happy to be home. After drying off and getting into warm clothes I made a pan of brownies which was a big hit with the volunteers there on this blustery indoors kind of day.

Much later in the afternoon I walked over the the bureau about 10 blocks away and visited Nakeisha, who needed phone units, which I brought her. I picked us up some food at the Blue Marlin. It took me a long time to put my blog and pictures up\on the internet. Sally called and has another box ready to send. I asked for more paper for the school kids and Spanish peanuts for me. I crave salt at times, I think from sweating in the humidity and drinking lots of water. Her family will go to Fort Flagler in June, so that is always a good gathering time for them.

On Monday morning I wrote Dr. Claude a letter of interest in the Moringa Workshop, which will be held in OHG mid-June and includes bringing a counterpart from the COGES (health board) group in village. I attached a photo of the Moringa tree I had given my host family when I left in December and it had doubled in height, and was well protected. I also wanted to send Dr. Claude some pictures from the day she visited me in village, and I was doing a presentation in Dana, 10K away, which she attended. (See photos.) And I wanted to email the American Ambassador a thank you as well.

I said Goodbye to Nakeisha and went back to the TH to pack, when Becky arrived as I was leaving. Also Rob was just back from New York seeing his brother and he helped me get a cab to go to the taxi brousse gare for Thyou. Then the wait began! The guys who manage this taxi were all getting haircuts beside the vehicle. We women waited two hours after departure time for the thing to leave. Then we waited at another location for some village commissionaire. Another time the taxi pulled over and all 16 of us got off while they changed a flat tire. By the time I got to Thyou it was 1630, and I needed help getting all my stuff home. Pretty soon Maxime came on his moto and took my luggage home. Then his brother Georges arrived and walked me home. I had forgot we were going to meet at the other station in town. I think I was exhausted from the ride home and spaced it.

27-May-08

On Tuesday morning we practiced the Malaria causerie (talk) before riding there. We always stop by the clinic to talk with the major before talking with the villagers, to make sure he knows what I am up to. The stagierre nurses were there getting ready to return to KDG today. I let the major know I needed a contact number for an ASC in Bolo and Bouyou because we are going there next Wednesday. He supplied that.

At Salou, Karim, Georges and myself went to the chef's house first to give away the recorder to his grandson, Salaif, who was thrilled. Next we went to the big tree at the other side of the marche' and waited. The chef had arranged for a town crier to get the message out again. By 12:45 there were enough people to get underway, about 20 women and 10 men and many kids. We did the Malaria presentation and used the flip that the medical staff in Sala found for us. The people were interested in that visual aid answered the questions posed them in Moore'. I demonstrated the moustiquaire spray. Then we headed back to Sala and got benga at Mimouna's restaurant. By the time I got home in the afternoon Garrett came over to borrow some medical information I have, and he wants to bike 12K into the bush with us tomorrow for the presentations in Bolo and Bouyou. Abdoulaye and his brother Madi came over to visit and play Uno. Madi goes to secondary school in Sabou all school year, and I gave some school supplies. I gave Abdoulaye the soccer ball I had bought him in Ouaga, and boy was he happy. I went to bed at 9pm and think I'm getting a cold.

On Wednesday morning Garrett came, then Karim, then Georges. After a round of coffee we left for the bush. It took an hour to reach Bolo and we took a path that went by the biggest Baobob Tree, so stopped for photos there. Then went to the place close to the school where some functonairres were gathered. I gave the headmaster the sack of school supplies. He wants his students to write letters to America. He inquired about the French reader books, and I told him I was still working on that.

After an intense discussion we left for Bouyou as they were expecting us there at 10am. One woman was waiting for us under the big tree, and she and Amidiou went out to the fields and had the other people come in for the presentation. There were 80 people Garrett counted including children. They were very attentive. I presented in French and Georges presented in Moore'. When we broke into groups I had Garrett take the young men, Karim take the old men and Georges got the big group of women. They each came up with 5 main health issues, we merged the lists and then did the matrix with the people voting on every pair of issues. The principal health problem identified in this way by the villagers was Palu (malaria). I was able to ask my three wrap up questions after which they all clapped. We passed out the biscuits and water. Then they gave us a dozen pintard eggs and a big sack of peanuts. What a treat! They loved having us come clear out to their village to talk with them.

As we came back through Bolo we stopped by the gathering place and discussed with them that I am losing my voice to a cold and we will return next marche' for the presentation in Bolo.

On Thursday I stayed in all morning taking it easy due to my cold. Before noon I was napping too. Then I went to the marche' in Thyou and met a lot of friends. I got pork for a sandwich and we went to have dolo with Georges friend Prosper. We saw Jean Baptiste and Marie and several villagers I know. There was a man who had seen us present in Bouyou and he thanked us again. I think I saw Awa when I fist got there and then the headmaster Edouard who wants me to come to the school again.

When I went for produce, I met Laurentine and gave her half the leaves I bought for sauce. As I returned for my bike, Augustine wanted something from the marche' and I gave him a mango. He was happy. After the marche' we took the route around the Thyou barrage to go home for my lesson.
In the evening I gave out candy to the children, and we were to Amadou's maison for his home made dolo.

Friday was a dark morning. I went to get cell tell units and got home just before the two hour rain started. Minata was dancing in the rain, just what a gardener here does! After a long bath and braiding my hair, I worked on my summary for the COGES, a meeting that usually occurs on the 30th of each month, but won't take place today. When Georges came for my lesson, he helped correct my translation.

Saturday I got up at 5:30 and had my breakfast and asked Minata if I could go the fields with them to plant today. “Mam tuumba waooga.” It was 2K away on the back road, and the kids were already there working. I got a daba to dig a small hole and plant one benga (bean) and 12 ki (millet) in each, then cover it up. We worked until mid-morning when we had a meal of to and Gumbo sauce. I explained to Minata's kids that in America when we eat outside it is called a picnic, which we were having right then. They giggled, thinking that was really funny. (See photos.)