African Adventure 12

01-July-08

I pedaled to the Sala boutique to buy bread, and stopped next door at Sonata's restaurant to visit her and her two little girls. Yes, they would like some hair things, barrettes for the girls, a comb for mom. This particular morning three women visited me for coffee, as the children played with toys on the floor. Still feeling social at midday, I went to Koutim's hut to visit with her and see the new baby in their environment. I greeted the father, Salam outside. The baby was on a mat to my left, and a small fire for cooking was by the wall on the right. I noted the new baby quilt already in use, was on the line outside drying.

The next morning we rode 15K to Sabou. This is the first chance I've had to visit Nodeere complex and pick up the bag (6 mill) the artisans made for me months ago. We watched another artist draw freehand a village woman carrying a large bowl on her head. We got an omelette sandwich while we waited for the bousse taxi going to KDG, but that taxi was broken so we waited until 10:30am when one came north from Fara. We wanted to attend the ordination of the five seminarians from this area of BF. I checked in at the mission, Notre Dame Petite Seminaire. While in KDG, I also intended to purchase the supplies for the Moringa Project: a pick, shovel, rake, watering can, as well as 500 planting bags (pots). We found all those things eventually and returned to the mission, which was packed for the weekend due to the upcoming ordination. George knew all four seminarians who were staying in the wing where I had a room. He went off to stay with his former mentor, Julien.

Other volunteers, Ryan and Sonia were also staying at the mission and we met them the next day at the post internet. We lunched across the street at Jackson's with them and Melissa, Kelly and Zach. We celebrated Sonia's birthday. She gave me Hearth model papers to copy for my project, while George and Ryan talked about Moringa over lunch.

After leaving the group we went to Achille's work to visit him. He had painted me a canvas drawing of “docteur traditionnel” in BF depicting local health problems. Achille was very happy to see me. I sat and watched him paint team numbers for soccer shirts. Interesting! After he got off work we bought pork to make sandwiches and stopped at the internet cafe to look at pictures I had posted. They rode down the hill to the mission with me to assure my safety, then headed for their own places.

04-July-08

By midmorning we three were biking to visit Achille's mother, Cecile who was cooking at the Lycee kitchen in KDG for the students from out of town, who were there to test for BAC. Two young women were assisting her with preparing vegetables and meat for the noon meal, which was readied on the open fire in a huge pot near the kitchen entrance. (See photo.) We offered her condolences for her recent loss, Achille's father.

We found Achille's brother, Seraphin at his home. We chatted about his recent month long trip to France and his timely return which allowed him to spend the evening with his father before he died. He showed us pictures of France on his hand held computer. Seraphin is very likable and interested in all conversations too. He invited us to lunch across town at a buvette near the Cathedral. He wanted us to moto together but I declined and we biked there instead. We talked about the Moringa Project in village that we are involved with. As we went back towards town, storm clouds were gathering. We spent the next two hours at the internet while it poured outside. Next I went back home for a nap, and Achille went to his house to shower. Later in the evening we ate a peanut butter and avocado sandwich and I found music discs on my computer we listened to. By 10pm I was in bed resting for the jour l'ordination the next morning.


05-July-08 L'ordination

Four of us rode our bikes to the Burkina Parish in KDG, where the ordination service was set up outside with the altar up on the porch and canopes overhead for the rains that threatened. The monsignor of Burkina Faso officiated and spoke in three languages, French, Moore' and Garounsi. Parents were on either side of the altar, and the front sections were reserved for choirs, musicians, and dancers. The procession began with dancers, the entourage surrounding the monsignor, then many seminarians, and finally the five expectant priests. During their vows they lay prostate in front of the altar. The celebration of priestly vows is a solemn and beautiful ceremony, lasting a long time but unique among the rituals of the Catholic Church. (See photos.)

Back at the Petite Seminaire Notre Dame there was a formal reception with a sit down meal for the new priests and their families, who were all lodged there for the weekend. In another building there was a potluck meal for all the visitors and friends of the new priests. As we entered that dining hall a huge pot of Riz Gras was brought in and we were able to partake of that among other quickly disappearing choices and some drinks. We took the taxi brousse back across to Sabou, where I was spending the night with the sisters at the CREN. By the time I biked the 2-3K to their convent it was dark except for the moonlight. I found the first gate, and the workers helped direct me to the second gate for entrance to the CREN and the convent in the back. The sisters were expecting me and had set out a dinner plate for me with the variety of foods they had for their dinner. After that we piled in the car and went back into Sabou to St. Luke's Parish, where the congregation was doing skits and dancing in anticipation of the premiere mass tomorrow of Father Achille, the first young man from their parish to become a priest.

06-July-08

After a quick breakfast, the sisters and I drove to church for the special occasion of the Premiere Mass for Father Achille. We sat together near the left side of the altar, where other medical nuns were already alongside some of the family members who came to this first Mass. As the new priest entered in the grand procession, it was evident that the parish was so proud and happy with this event. The dancers and singers repeating some of the same music of the preceding day, were exquisite. Sr. Margaret joined the French choir to sing. Sr. Mary lent me her French missile to follow along with the mass. The church was all tidied up and a fresh new painting of a chalice hung on the wall, compliments of Fr. Jacques. Georges' brother, Maxime also a seminarian organized the liturgy and timing of all the participants in his quiet, respectful manner. At the consecration the liturgy took on a fresh and personal meaning with Fr. Achille's first time changing the bread and wine into the body and blood of Jesus. Long lines formed for communion. After the final blessing many representatives from the community gave short speeches and donated gifts to the new priest. The highlight was when the parish presented him (by driving it into the church) with a new moto for his work. The finale' was everyone in procession dancing down the main aisle of the church and back up either side. As the nuns joined in, they took me along and we clapped and chanted our way around the church. (See photos.) Afterwards there were many photos taken and a lunch was served at the rectory. In the late afternoon I biked the 15K back to Sala and home, a welcome sight. Minata's adult children, Sonata and Madi were also home from their respective schools for the summer break.

This week Shawn called to say Cash is crawling on all fours and is trying to walk around things. They are packing for six weeks in Guatemala, and staying at a friend's hostel there. They are looking forward to some “family time”, just the three of them. Shawn sent me a copy of the July/August “Sculpture Magazine” with the cover picture and an eight page spread of his double negative art project. I am so proud of him.

Later in the week Wed. evening after my language lesson with Georges and when my village counterpart, Karim was over, we walked to the chef's compound and requested permission to do a sensibilisation on July 18, after planting season is over, if it doesn't rain. Chef Ouedraogo Adama wants us to do the three main quartiers of Sala; Weeg Yiri, Ipala, and Ganssen.

On Thursday Gansonre was just starting to weigh babies at the maternite' when I arrived to help out. (See photo.) There were many people because he is passing out mosquitaires to the mothers of babies and pregnant women, the two most vulnerable groups to get Malaria. Baby weighing is my favorite activity of the week. I spent considerable time working on the French translation of my Moringa sensibilisation during the week.

I spoke to Lorraine and Heather both on the phone during the week. Heather has begun her shots in order to come and visit me. She's had Indigo to a couple different vets to assess what's best for her, sounds like both knees are blown out. Arthritis in animals has to be pretty uncomfortable, just like for us humans. Lorraine's family has been traveling and she and Dave have been working around their place. She's wearing glasses exclusively now. Dave got on the phone to recap my life here and I was rolling in laughter, but it's obvious he follows my blogs.

On Sunday Kiemtore' Henri led the prayer service at church. Jean Baptiste had gone to Nabatogo. Marie led the choir because the new choral director, Matthias was not there. Turns out it is Henri's anniversaire this date, so there will be a party for him at the house this evening and Martine had come from Nabatogo to help celebrate her father's birthday.

I visited the Assembly of God church at noon only to discover that the service finishes at that time. So I made plans to return soon. Madame Kiemde' came up to me then and invited me to her home for a lunch of haricot leaf balls with oil and mango drink. Her girls and she and I sang English, French and Moore' hymns and had fun doing it.

At the agreed hour I met Georges to follow him to his parent's home for the birthday celebration. Friends and family were there. There was a boom box playing Moore' hymns on cassettes, as people danced around the fire, with the guys drumming to the beat of the music. Food and drink was plentiful as everyone was having a good time.

15 July 08

Today Fatimata and Ramata, sisters from my OHG host family arrived in the evening to visit me in Sala. This is a major trip in an unfamiliar part of the country for them. They are staying a week, so my neighbor Madi went on my bike to meet them at the taxi brousse place, after it had been raining all afternoon. As he is close to their ages and also a student, they all became fast friends. Amade' had told me his daughters will come for a visit after their BAC tests, so that is now!

It was a good visit, they enjoyed themselves in Sala, visiting everyone in my quartier, meeting the staff at CSPS, meeting the chef and seeing the sites: the elementary school, both barrages and the Thyou marche'. We visited a long time about the family in Somyaga, and looked at pictures of everyone. They shared that Orokia misses me, and she and Amade' hope to visit too before harvest is finished.

On Thursday I took Fatimata and Ramata to baby weighing with me at the maternite' and there came Salamata (from the restaurant) with her brand new baby girl. She was very happy to see me, as I was her. I had Gansonre tell her I have a baby quilt for her, and she came the next morning to get it. One woman who came in for prenatal visit had a condition where the baby was developing outside the uterus. Gansonre let me observe her belly as he confirmed the problem and gave her a referral to KDG for special care at the hospital there.

Early Friday was the first sensibilisation regarding Moringa Tree and it's nutritional benefits. The chef had said it would be held down by the main road in a hangar in Sala, so Karim, Georges and I along with Fatimata and Ramata took my flip chart describing the vitamins and nutrients in the leaves down there. We were set to do the presentation, Karim with a report on the Moringa conference we both attended and Georges to translate my French into Moore' for the villagers. We had a light turnout, but it was well received and a good practice for the next ones. Karim also described that we will start a project to grow Moringa trees to plant in and around Sala. The people seem to know Moringa but without all the details on the nutritional value. They were interested and want the chance to grow it. Luckily the rains held off until after the sensibilisation.

The three students, Madi, Fatimata, and Ramata got out their BAC study guides and were comparing notes on taking the test recently. It is a very involved process, and includes much detail regarding specific areas of study. Students here in Burkina Faso are very committed to education with the hope of furthering their choices in life. In the late afternoon Madi wanted to show Fatimata and Ramata more of the Sala barrage, so the four of us walked clear around it, stopping along the way to explore the gardens and the dike, etc. It took about two hours and we ended up in Thyou on the other end of the trek. Surprising how big it is! (See photos.) We finished that day up with a long game of Uno, which they really liked.

On Sunday while I was at church, I observed a young man nearby with holes in either flip-flop and afterwards I asked him to come by my house as I wanted to give him a new pair that my friends had sent from America. We stopped by the marche' to get some things and lunch before going home. Some folks from the church in Sabou were at the morning service, so we asked them to take some Moringa seeds back for the nuns there as a thank you for my lodging the past weekend. The sisters are leaving in a couple days for a month in Italy for the worldwide 25 year anniversary celebration of their order. I hoped they would plant them before leaving Burkina Faso.

In the afternoon I worked on translating student letters into English from the school in Zao. I want to mail them when I'm in Ouaga next week. Also in the afternoon we washed Moringa leaves donated by Pascaline, so I could prepare Kopto for dinner. It is made with peanut butter, tomatoes, onions, garlic, oil and seasoning. It is very tasty and nutritious too.

Monday morning early we three were packed and ready for the return trip to Ouaga, where the girls would catch a bus on to OHG and home. We had help getting to the Shell station to catch the ride. The girls and I talked a lot on the way to the capital. Fatimata wrote me a note saying, “Many African people like you. You need to stay in Africa. You give gifts to the children, women and men. It is good.” When we got to town and asked directions to the bus station, the girls shared with me that they were out of money. They were timid to say that, and borrowed 5 mille to return home. It was difficult to part, but joyous to have had the visit at the same time.

My trip into Ouaga included a Physical Therapy appt to work on strengthening my muscles since my accident in April. They use ultra sound and heat packs and it seems to work well. I shopped at the Artisan's Village for gifts to send home. I also got to visit with other volunteers in town and eat a couple meals out in nice restaurants. We had a taco feed one evening orchestrated by Courtney, an excellent cook and a volunteer from South Carolina. I also chatted with Josh, who recently became engaged, he asked what I thought was the secret to a good marriage. My answer: keep a sense of humor, and talk to each other lots, and be interested in your partners likes and activities. We all went to a good-bye luncheon for Helen, who has just finished her service and is returning to the US. She agreed to take a pkg to mail for me. Helen is going to start her Master's Program at Tuft's University in Boston soon after she gets back.

Lindsey was in town with her family from USA and we had a good visit. She recommends the bed and breakfast “Karite' Bleu”, down the street from the Transit House for out of towners. The country director asked me to dine with Annette, a new staggiere who is returning home to be with her mother during major surgery. She is sad to part. On Friday I packed up to return to village.

 
"Mefloquine-my antidote for malaria"

As I visit the health clinic in my village the number one health condition that brings people of all ages for help is malaria, both simple and grave. If villagers come in with early symptoms the IV drip with antibiotics, vitamins and blood boosters works well and rapidly. Time precludes waiting for test results in Africa. All people with symptoms are treated for malaria as a precaution.

If patients come in later, the symptoms are grave and harder to resolve. The fever and all over body aches progress in a short time to vomiting and delirium and kidney failure. It's faster with children.

The Peace Corps requires its volunteers to take regular prophylaxis-usually Mefloquine weekly. Even if the female mosquito, Anopheles, bites one, the antidote interrupts the venom traveling to one's liver. The reputation of Mefloquine is that it can make some people crazy, which I think is overstated. The drug is also known to make one's dreams very intense, which I inferred meant violent. Surprisingly, dreams are "vivid" and seem real, but are quite pleasant. The problem is they drift away quickly, so one can't remember, but the lingering sense is positive. "Pas de probleme".

***25 July 2008

Friday evening there was a big BAC feast in Thyou at the home of Jean honoring honoring their son's graduation from the university with a degree in public administration. There were lots of family and friends, many from our church, exquisite food, drinks, microphoned speeches in French and Moore', music and dancing. I was happy to experience this family event shared with the community.

Saturday

I had visitors for tea and coffee early next morning when I opened my door. Issaka, in his forty's and who is diabetic, shared his medical file with me and explained that he is able to handle that by diet at this point, and wondered if it will always be with him. He also takes pills. Issaka lives most of the time with his family in Cote D' Ivoire, and visits his family in Sala every few months. He always brings gifts, bikes, clothes etc. Abdoulaye blew up the soccer ball I had sent from USA and the neighbor boys love playing with it. I had time to read more of “Power of One”, set in Africa.

I got my house in order for company, Becky and Christina. In the afternoon Christina text me that the axle broke on their vehicle and they waited all day for another one to get there and installed. They arrived from KDG to Sabou right before dusk. I biked there to meet them. Linda was on the same transport heading south to Bobo area. They were having fun conversing with other guys on the transport, giving them fictitious info. It took 20 minutes for the workers to get her bike off the top of the vehicle and her bags attached to it. We left in the dark slowly making our way to village down a challenging road filled with ruts from the recent rains. No moon to guide us.

When we got past Thyou, George and Laurentine were waiting for us at the cell tell place and had brought dinner for our arrival. We all continued on to my house. The pate d'arachite sauce over rice was delicious! Exhausted we retired for the night.

The next day we went over to the clinic to meet the major and other med staff and take the tour. There were 4-5 patients with malaria getting treatment. There is a new accoucheuse, Leah. I showed Christina the little shops in Sala and we rode out to the barrage. I lost my sense of direction and soon we were heading for Bolo. I realized my mistake and it took a while to return, but the villagers we asked helped redirect us. We fixed tuna sandwiches, then pedaled to Thyou to meet with Becky who bike from Sabou that afternoon. We met up there and relaxed at the buvette for a drink. We visited Garrett while in Thyou, so the PCVs could see his surroundings. We met a man Saidou Kabre' who is a successful businessman in Ouaga, and is back here to thank the group of 6 Swiss youth volunteers who are building a bibliography and chicken coup near there.

Another tour of meeting the major and visiting the clinic happened for Becky's sake. The major had moved into his new home by the CSPS while I had been gone last week, and he visited with us out front. We stopped by the chef's compound on the way home. He was happy to meet my visitors and teased Christina about staying to be another wife for him. We arrived home to more company, who ate with us and we were all set to play Uno when a storm started brewing. So people went home and we readied for the night. It is so fun to have fellow PCVs visit me in Sala!

The following morning Christina took the taxi at Thyou back to Ouaga, and later Becky took one from Sala back there. It was a short but sweet visit and we all promised to make it happen again.

Karim showed me where the Ipala quartier is, which is a long way west of Sala on a path filled with last night's rain. We returned via the CSPS and weighed 3 babies at the maternite' with the new accoucheuse.

In the afternoon I made my usual trip to the marche' for vegetables and fruits, etc. Then I had my language lesson and practiced the Moringa presentation again. George told me there was a murder in Bolo last Friday night and a man was locked up in Sabou regarding that. He knew the victim's brother from our church.

29 July 2008

We gathered at my place to pedal to Ipala quartier for sensibilisation on benefits of Moringa Tree. We have visual aids including pruning a branch off the M tree at the maternite' to use for our talk. The sous-chef was Ouedraogo Boureima, Karim's father. Women gathered numbering 30-40 and the men numbered 20. A few children were present. The talk was well received and we spent some time on a question about insects and Moringa. We debriefed with the major afterwards.

30 July 2008

Garrett went to Ouaga today and brought back a big envelope from Shawn, his Double Negative project in southern Nevada was featured in the current issue of “Sculpture” magazine, with a great photo on the cover and 8 page article. Wow! I couldn't be prouder. Lorraine called to tell me how great the article was too.

I sat on the porch and watched a storm coming in the distance. Before the COGES meeting in the late afternoon, Georges came to review the summary of my activities in a report I prepared for it. I was allowed time at the end to give a short recap. At the end of the meeting, Gansonre passed out moustiquairres to all the members there. It is part of the big campaign going on now to distribute them to all pregnant women and mothers with babies.

The next day was Thursday, which means baby weighing in village. The turnout was tremendous because word had gotten around that the mosquitairres would be given out. So the maternite' was overflowing with women and babies, some who hadn't been in in a year for it, were there today. It was also a chance to update vaccinations that were overdue on some babies too. I would guess I weighed over 40 babies that morning, many from my own quartier. I want to ask my language teacher to help me learn how to tell the mothers in Moore' the weight of their babies.

I went to the marche' in the afternoon and returned home via the Thyou barrage, where George washed my bike in the rippling stream nearby. See photos.

Garrett texted me that the Swiss were having a celebration the next afternoon and we were invited to attend.


Fire

Before dawn Burkina women light a fire with small dry weeds and twigs. Gradually they add stems and sticks, progressing to large limbs and thick pieces of dry wood. Burkinabe' regulate the heat by the size of the fuel and the action of pulling branches in or out of the fire. Fires are made both outside and inside next to the walls of the house. Some houses have a separate building exclusively for cuisine preparation, somewhat of a luxury here.

Usually there are three big stones spaced in a triangle around the heat source, a tripod of sorts to balance the marmite (pot) on. This kettle has a rounded bottom. Depending on the cuisine the fire can be flaming, smoldering or white hot. Sometimes a woman has two fires of different size for cuisine side by side, much like two burners on a stove. I have seen peanuts in shells put in the fire, then removed by hand w/o burning the person.

Little kids light a pile of straw in the winter in the field and huddle around the heat to warm themselves. People carry burning embers to share and ignite other fires. When the villagers want to harvest honey from way up in the trunks of big trees, men climb into the trees with a blow torch and the fire sends the bees away while they harvest the honey.