African Adventure 17

RELIGION

In December in Burkina Faso several religious holidays are observed by Muslims and Christians respectively. Advent and Noel (Christmas) are closely regarded spiritual observances by Christians, whereas Tabaski and a Pilgrimage to Mecca (in the twelfth lunar month) are revered by Muslims. I have seen indications of worship as an intricate part of everyday life in Burkina Faso. Muslims make time for the five prayers times during their day no matter where they are. Christians bless themselves before drinking water, beer, soda, etc. and they nearly always pray before meals. These practices and others give God/Allah a significant presence in the daily lives of the Burkinabe'.

It is clear to me people recognize a personal God/Allah as well as group and public worship of God/Allah in the traditional liturgical practice in BF. Within everyday Moore' conversation there is frequent reference to God: when rain comes “Wend na kita ni”- May God bring rain; when someone travels “Wend na siki/lebg laafi”- May God be with you going/returning in travel; when New Year's comes “Wend na ko veere”- May God give you another year; when illness comes “Wend na ko laafi”- May God heal you.

The self discipline for religious practices in all faiths is obvious. For Islam, my awareness increased dramatically during my three months in training at the town of Ouahigouya, I would awaken near 4am each morning to the beautiful chant of a Muslim voicing the pre-dawn prayer. For Christians, I notice as I bike 3K to my church in the next village, dozens, sometimes hundreds of villagers walking the same dirt road to the church hangar for service. Some members come from their homes much farther than that. Another outward sign of devotion is the singing, both in volume and in near total participation by the congregations of the Assembly of God and Catholic churches.

It appears with life and death matters for Burkinabe' underlies a deep faith and acceptance of the majesty and power of God/Allah. What impresses me most is how religion permeates daily life here, where citizens can practice Animism, Islam and Christianity side by side with visible respect and tolerance for individual beliefs.

01 December 09 Monday

Today the week long campaign for Yellow Fever vaccinations begins. When I arrived at the CSPS clinic at 8 am there were already long lines of students with teachers patrolling (branches in hand in case they needed to get a student's attention). The ASC was there doing crowd control as well. (See photos.)

The Major and his wife from KDG, Adja, plus his daughter, Rasmata, and the Concierge, Mamounata were all preparing for the big campaign. My counterpart, Karim was there too. I folded boxes for used syringes, while letting the Major know that I could mix the with the vaccine. The district administrator from the Bouyounou also came for oversight. We worked all morning vaccinating students and villagers as they came. By noon we were exhausted and welcomed the break. Later in the afternoon Gilbert and the Major tallied the people recorded as vaccinated, which turned out to be 1250.

That afternoon I visited the marche' to get the staples and food I needed for the next few days. We greeted the people, in particular Koala Jean, who took us to his family's hangar where his wife and daughter were serving milange. He teased me about coming to America as my comrade. We found pork for sandwiches and the soup for dipping our sandwiches in. Yummy!

Tuesday began equally early for vaccinations. However on this day four men from Sapouy came for oversight, then two green Sante' pickups came with two men each. They observed the process and made sure the vaccine was mixed and applied properly. I gave the Major my quarterly reports for the district doctor at Sapouy, which he in turn gave to the staff from there to deliver. At 12:30 pm we finished and took the afternoon repose and lunch break.

It was nearly 5pm when my tutor came for my lesson. We practiced the Malaria presentation, and discovered a third flip on moustiquaire, which we practiced too. When he left later I asked him to get biscuits for the people and petrol for the moto for the next day.

On Wednesday I had scheduled the sensibilisation on Malaria for the village of Bouyou, and by 9am we were on our way there. We packed up 5 Moringa trees to take along. When we passed Bolo they were setting up there for the marche' that day. We continued on to near the school at Bouyou where Philippe, the nurse was set up under a tree, doing the Yellow Fever vaccinations for the village. I could see he needed help so I offered assistance. There were many persons waiting and three or four village reps helping by writing on the vaccination cards and managing the crowd.

Amidou said after vaccinations we would have causerie, but in fact people were leaving for home and the marche', so at 11:30 he said we should begin the sensibilisation with the 100 people gathered there (half were children). We did the presentation with the flip charts to demonstrate to the villagers the main themes explaining the symptoms and benefits of early medical care for victims. One man, who answered most of the questions I posed to the people, was thrilled when I gave him a moustiquaire for his efforts. When we passed out the biscuits we ended up breaking them into four pieces each so that we could spread the treat among so many people. The questions from the crowd included one on where to get the mosquito nets.

We greeted the teacher and his wife who was preparing salad and haricot verte (green beans) for lunch. They insisted we partake, and we were happy to do so. One of the visitors at lunch had been to KDG and seen Blondy as we had. So we enjoyed reliving that whole event.

04 December 09 Thursday

The little group of regulars showed up for coffee this morning. After that I went to CSPS early, but the vaccinations didn't start until 9am and it was considerably slower, maybe 50 people all together that morning. I chatted with the Major's family at his home that day, and in the afternoon I went to the Thyou marche'. First I stopped by the cellular phone place and conveyed that I had trouble with people hearing me when I speak on the phone. They called Augustine over and he brought his diagnostic devise and determined the microphone in my phone wasn't functioning, so he replaced it for 3 mille. I was happy to have it fixed, as will be the people who call me from home and can't hear me.

We went to sit by the Thyou barrage for my lesson today. I practiced my VIH talk and we studied my French-Moore' reader.

05 December 09

Today is the VIH-AIDS presentation at Salo which I had scheduled in French with Garrett as co-presenter. Of course my tutor came for translation into Moore'. We pedaled to Salo but the crowd had not gathered, so we went to visit Zika Yaoungo's quartier. I had a photo for him and gave him a Moringa tree. He acts like a leader of the community and is respected like a chef. He talked to Garrett about 8 of his children who attend the CEG at Thyou where Garrett teaches, and then some of his children came into the room and Garrett in fact knew one of them and said he is very smart. Zika is a proud parent!

We returned to the village marche' and under the tree where our sensibilisation would be. Oussmane took the bullhorn and went about announcing the sensibilisation is about to begin. By 1:30 in the afternoon we had 20 men, 6 women and 50 children gathered and began the talk. By the time we got to the condom demo we could hear snickers from the group, as Garrett put the condom on the pepper bottle I held for him. The talk sparked questions about a female condom, and also the need to wash hands after removing a condom. It was an interesting causerie, after which Garrett left for benga.

We stayed and visited in the hangars, I took several villager's pictures, and we had chance to causerie. It was good. (See photos.)

On Saturday I stayed home for the most part. Karim and his brother came by to charge his phone battery. They looked through magazines and played cards. During the day I worked on my blog. By late afternoon I started preparing spaghetti dinner for my neighbors. At 5pm the 8 of the children came over for dinner. Minata was not home and their big brother, Essauf came later. They gobbled it down.

On Sunday I prepared pilau in the morning to take to Kiemtore's for potluck dinner. I pedaled against the wind to Mass at the church hangar, so that made me 20 minutes late. There were two groups of singers there today, one young people's group singing in French and the regular church choir in Moore'. George was the reader and played the drums today, a change from his role as choral director. After the service was completed we all went to the catechist's house next to the church, and witnessed the women bring in baskets of harvest they were donating for the seminarians. It filled their storage area.
Little Claude showed me the soccer ball I had given to him, which was really unrecognizable in just 3 weeks. Marie gave me a sack of peanuts. We have much to be thankful about!



08 December 08 TABASKI

This is the joyous Muslim Holiday to celebrate the harvest and mark 90 days since Ramadan. Gradually all the villagers gathered in the soccer field for the service at 9am. Everyone was wearing new outfits, colorful robes and bou-bous, matching pants and tops. Often groups of friends or family wore the same fabric in pleasant repetition. Women and children had new hairdos, intricate braids or a new clip. The voices of the gathered crowd resonated with laughter and excitement, as more and more people filled the ball field. Prayer service naturally facing East was led by a group of 8-10 men, some of whom had been to Mecca. This gathering was much larger than that of Ramadan. The long lines of men, then women and children on mats were assembled for 30 minutes of prayer service. Collection was made close to the end of service. Afterwards people visited together happily admiring each other's costume for the occasion. (See photos.)

As soon as we returned to our compound all the women set about preparing the food for the great feast. I was served Zoomkoom while I watched my neighbors prepare sauce and began processing three huge containers of millet for to'. I managed to visit all the huts in my two compounds: Sonata, Sampoko, Sita, Alizetta, and Mariam among others. I found Lizetta, Mariam #2, Salimata and the premiere femme at home. Each man, Salam and Hamadou, greeted me in their respective compounds. “Wend na Ko Veere'”. Bon Fete! I ate at four places. A nap “repose” followed.

Tradition is that one visits neighbors and friends also on this feast. I went to the Major's home, awaiting his return, and enjoyed Zoomkoom with Rasmata, and some of the children. Then I was served Riz Gras with delicious meat. When the major arrived with Aja from KDG, we all visited. I learned their daughter is getting married December 20 in KDG, and they invited me to the event. Soon Georges arrived with a gift for the Major, who in turn gave me a Pintarde. Wow! (See photo.)

There was another round of visiting that we did at the school teacher's home. They served up spaghetti with sauce, and rice and sauce along with more Zoomkoom. We ended the day at my place listening to music with neighbors who came over.

09 December 08

After the morning round of people had been to my place for coffee or tea, the children came in for a fun time with ball and jacks. Then I got ready to go to the clinic in the morning. The Major was talking intensely with a grandmother and a child's father as I approached. I learned there was a 7-8 yr old boy with grave malaria at home needing a transfusion. The father was tearful as they left on a bike for Thyou, their village.

The CSPS was not busy this day due to everyone's celebration of Ramadan still lingering in the air. Soon the family returned now with two men crying. Child died? Life and death are so common yet difficult in Burkina Faso.

In the afternoon I studied two lessons in the “French book for learning in 20 lesson” and enjoyed the sentence composition exercises to practice my word placement. While we ate dinner, the Major's son came with a written invitation to the family wedding later in the month. Seeing a traditional Muslim wedding will be a huge experience.

The next day when I arrived at the clinic there weren't many patients. The major said the people are at the Grand Marche' following Tabaski today. It's a good idea to go early. I decided it would be a good time to visit my friend, Silvie, at her hangar. When I got there she served me her dolo and said she had gotten the two shirts I left on a hook by her front door for her. Then I went to lunch with Koala Jean, Chirille, and Georges at the catechist's pork stand. I also visited with his sons, Claude and Barnard and his helper Irene'. Our friend, Prosper was there. The teachers from Salo were there talking about school issues together with their director, Ky. It was all very social. About that time Lorraine called and I was happy to hear the news from home talking to my best friend.

11 December 08

I wanted to arrive at maternite' by 8am when it was time to weigh babies. The clinic was full. Presently Gilbert came there and showed me how to record the weight in the big book and also on the individual health cards the families brought along. He asked me to stack the cards of the ones who need to wait for vaccination that day, and he would be back to do that. And he did return two different times to vaccinate children. I recorded each of those in the vaccination book for the particular village. For two hours I weighed babies alone. When the Major came by once I asked for pronunciation of one of the new baby names, but also the women there made it easy for me to succeed by explaining to each other what some of them could tell I needed. Burkinabe' are exceedingly patient people. My friends, Salimata, Awa, and Sita from my compound came. Both the Major and Gilbert thanked me several times for helping out when they were short handed this day.

This afternoon a truckload of priests (4) came from Sabou 15K away to offer Reconciliation to the parishioners before Noel. I was encouraged by one young woman to go back where Father Thomas was, because he speaks French, whereas the others were hearing and speaking in Moore'. It seemed he understood me and I understood most of what he said. I asked Georges later for translation of the words Father used: “Il dit la pardon a Dieu de se les uns les autres. Dieu nous guarde nos activite's religieuse pour l'attende de naissance de Jesus. Prie la chapelet.”

I talked with Claude and Barnard the catechist's boys, while I waited for Georges to finish loading the harvest bags for the priests from last Sunday. They were taking them home to St. Luc's Parrouise in Thyou. In the late afternoon we finally got to work on my Moore' lesson.

12 December 08

This morning was to be VIH-AIDS sensabilisation with the Weeg Yiri quartier in Sala, but due to miscommunication it was not to be. I had company to fill my morning. In the afternoon when it was time for my language lesson, Georges brought over the pintarde I received from the Major. It was ready to cut up and cook. I wanted to fry it in pesto seasoning. So I put that on while we had our lesson. Since Georges was in Sabou that morning he picked up makings for a salad, lettuce, onions, tomatoes, cucumber, etc. which I topped with an Italian dressing. It was a rewarding meal.

Saturday morning we headed to Dana by 9am. I stopped by CSPS to check on the phone number for the ASC at Dana because I never heard back from the AA. I text the new found number and let Garrett know too as he will arrive at 11am for the talk as planned. In the meantime when Georges and I got to Dana with Moringa trees for the chef and two AAs, we found the chef at the hangar. He treated us to a calabasse of dolo and invited us to his house in his compound. That was very interesting. In there he had a quiver of arrows and a bow, two rifles (used mostly in ceremonies), lots of maise drying overhead, red millet, horns etc. He posed for some pictures. (See photos.) He then gave me a beautiful chicken of variegated brown colors.

All of a sudden his premiere femme chased him around the courtyard with a stick in jest for having another woman in his house. Everyone was laughing by then.

We returned to the marche' where Bitiou, Babou, and Zita were collecting people for the causerie on VIH. After noon shortly there were a couple dozen people, so we started the sensibilisation with Garrett taking the lead. The talk went ok and there were some giggles as we got to the condom demonstration. Another man got up and left when the condom demo started. I think it offended his religion. A serious question posed by one man with passion, was “Where are all the people? This is important information that the whole village needs to hear.”

A vendor, Blandine, at the Dana marche' asked for a tank top, which I will leave next Thursday when we come for school sensibilisation. She has befriended me more than once. We were able to stop by the Thyou marche' as well that day as I needed some things One friend of Georges cornered him for a conversation about another friend who had talked his way into George's home, while he was not there and convinced his daughters that he could have 3500 cfa of their father's cash stash. Needless to say, Georges was extremely upset when he confirmed this story with his girls.

14 December 08

I packed for Ouaga in the morning and waited by the roadside for a taxi brousse, as my regular one doesn't transport on Sundays. Within 10 minutes a blue taxi from Leo stopped and we were on our way. The day was pretty much spent at the internet, email and facebook. By 5pm my eyes were computer fatigued, so Becky and I went to the Blue Marlin restaurant and ordered dinner, green beans with garlic in light tomato and onion sauce. Also a steak sandwich. Both very good. When I got back to Transit House, I plugged in my Skype and talked with Ang, Cliff and the kids for over an hour. The call kept getting dropped as we gained experience on using Skype with the camera on. Luke played his baritone at Tub Xmas at Pioneer Square yesterday (his birthday) and then a newsman from ABC interviewed him for a spot on the evening news, too. What a way to highlight becoming a teenager!

On Monday I visited the bank twice before I was able to get a draw on my funds. The power was off while they were working on a huge remodel there. I worked on the computer at the Peace Corps Bureau most of the day. Cyr arranged for Abraham to drive me to buy a “Mousse Speciale produced by Erimetal” (firm medical mattress) in the afternoon. I hope this will be easier for my tired back and leg bones. The foam mattress has a big divot in the middle which is impossible to eliminate. The retail store had one single display model and had to go to the warehouse to get one, which Abraham will pick up tomorrow on our way to catch the taxi brousse for home. I paid the 25 mille and got my receipt.

When we finished shopping I returned to the Transit House, where a frenzy was going on with PCVs going home for the holidays concluding their packing to be ready when the airport taxi came. Other volunteers were helping out as they could. I made Becky and me a salad with French bread to eat. That calmed her somewhat.

When Chris and I talked on Skype later we discovered that the camera on caused our call to drop often, so we turned that off. Plus there is 12 million people on Skype tonight. We also chatted for an hour.

16 December 08

I posted my blog before packing to return to village via the taxi brousse today. Idrisse the driver came early to pick me, my bike, my boxes from home, and my luggage plus my new mattress. Wow! What a load! We unloaded at the station, then I hitched a ride from Idrisse to the bookstore a couple blocks away. I bought two French readers for my lessons. The taxi got home in the usual three hours and I asked Bouba if he could drop me off at end of my path to house, another K down the road. When we got there all the neighbor kids came down and helped me get everything up the hill. Abdoulaye carried the mattress on his head. Garrett came for his boxes right away. Georges paid a visit too. We discussed our causerie tomorrow in Salou, and our trip to KDG Friday for the wedding. It was a good welcome home evening.

After the first night on my new mattress,I will take some adjusting as it is sooo firm. On Wednesday we went to Salou for causeries with the school children about hygiene of handwashing. The school staff did not get the message that we were coming, but they took us right in and we did three sensibilisations in a row, starting with the youngest students. The children liked the demonstration and we easily had volunteers to participate in the handwashing. We left a ball of soap in each classroom for their use. They all liked learning the song. When the upper grades finished their test they came for their causerie. We gave teacher Daniel the school supplies donated by my American friends at home. They asked about the letters from the American school, and we assured them that they were coming.

We aired up my tire in the Salou marche', after lunch On the way home we stopped and took Aminata's bag of millet from her to transport on the bike. She was pleased about that. We got back home content with our work.

18 December 08 Thursday

When I got to the maternite' by 8:30 I discovered that the Major and Philippe were both gone. Gilbert said I could weigh the babies, so I did 21 babies, recording all the written information and setting aside 6-8 cards for those that needed vaccinations. It went smoothly. Soon the Major returned from Sapouy and thanked us for our work.

Karim came in the afternoon for a visit. We visited. He discussed the plans for the Sala barrage and the debate about who will benefit from the new canal that is being put in by a firm from Bobo. Then it was time for my language lesson and I read three stories in my third level reader.

Friday morning we biked to Sabou to catch the taxi brousse to Koudougou. It was very late but finally another one came from Fara. There were 20 people and all our stuff in it when we left. I rode beside the driver, who had a difficult time with the road conditions. The last 5K he drove in the bush, because his papers were not in order for the checkpoint we heard. That stretch was an amazing trip from my vantage point. I could smell the brakes, and the car had to be rolled to start each time. Wow!

At the KDG market I shopped for several things, but in particular a veil I wanted to wear for the wedding and a wedding card. While we shopped, we parked our bikes with Joseph, Georges friend where he is staying tonight. Then I found lodging at the Notre Dame seminary for 3 mille a night, after convincing the new nun that they always gave volunteers a discount in the past. I wanted to rest up for the next days activities.

20 December 08

Most of the morning was spent running errands, working on the internet and preparing for the wedding. We agreed to meet Achille at the cybercafe in the afternoon, so we could go together to the wedding. We rode to secteur 6, home of the parents of the groom. There were lots of people there; men outside under the trees, children running and playing, women gathered in back rooms; women preparing food and women on the porch—it was very exciting. The bride and her attendants were together in a bedroom excitedly waiting.

Outside we greeted Semde Madi and asked after the Major. He told us he was on his way. We sat and waited, while being served zoomkoom. When the Major arrived all the men knelt on prayer rugs for the afternoon prayer. (See photo.) Once they finished everyone went to the mosque. We were allowed to sit on the peripheri of the area outside the mosque near the fence entrance. Several hundred men were on mats at the east end of the structure. They had a lengthy prayer service there, which was for the purpose of blessing the union of the two getting married and sanctioned by the Moslem churchmen. The bride and groom were not present at the ceremony. The groom, Issa, was waiting by the gate with his attendants. A pickup truck had the bridesmaids and bride in the canopy in back and they drove to the nearby intersection but no one got out. Soon the pickup left. When the service was over, it appeared the marriage was approved. This was an eyeopener for me from the western culture

Everyone there went back to the home of the groom's parents, where a meal was served. We saw Gansonre there, and he left with the Major to visit at the home of the Major and Asseta in secteur 5 in KDG. We followed and gave him the wedding card with money for the bride and groom. We were served popcorn and zoomkoom. After dark we pedaled back to our accommodations delighted to have been invited to observe a Muslim wedding.

Sunday morning we caught our ride to Sabou. It was complicated to get everything lined up, but we were on the taxi brousse at 9:45 and arrived by 11am. We visited at the marche' in Sabou for the afternoon before riding home. Midway the major stopped and gave us a ride there. He thanked us for verifying his son Oussmane at the checkpoint, without enough papers along on his moto.

22 December 08

When I went to CSPS only a few people were there. The nurse Philippe was seeing many women waiting for Pre Natal Visits averaging around 10-15 minutes apiece. In the afternoon I went to the marche' at Thyou and visited with my church friends. Laurentine was on her way to choir practice for Noel. I asked Georges to pick out two roosters for my own Christmas feast with 5 mille, as many people were coming to visit that day, which means lots of food. I stocked up on fruits and vegetables too. Of course we some holiday cheer to serve as well.

The next day we motoed to Dana and Zao to do sensibilisation for the students regarding the hygiene of washing their hands. I brought along school supplies and some Moringa trees to give the village chefs. Dana elementary had a new director and so the text message I sent to the former director of course wasn't received. They did not know we were coming, but graciously accommodated us. They put all three classes together so we presented to one large group. Afterwards I inquired about the boy with the handicapped leg, and the director said he would get the father to come there when we returned in the afternoon.

Next we arrived at Zao school, Kuba was anticipating us and presently he put 6 classes together for our presentation and we had an even larger group. Georges translated into Moore' so the younger ones could understand. We had 12 student volunteers for the handwashing exercise, which made it long. The sensibilisation was well received by the students, they especially liked the song at the end. Kuba's preschool son, Goumou, hangs out in his classroom most days and was there today. As we gathered our things to go, we asked Kuba where the village chef lives and he led us there. At the nearby Baobob tree, the mother of the twins who had delivered last summer was pounding millet. We admired the twins, one small but both looked healthy. I gave her the birth photos I had taken some time ago. She was very excited and showed the other women there. We visited with the chef and gave him two Moringa trees. He took all four and will deliver the other two to the ASCs from Zao.

We followed Kuba back home, where his wife Batrine, had lunch ready for us. We sat under a big Mango tree and enjoyed rice and sauce with lapine (rabbit). It was good. Kuba set about making tea, which is quite a process and fun to watch, as he cascades it from one vessel to another. During this time we had a lively discussion about language learning and America. French has its idiosyncrasies! Kuba poured the tea in a long stream between two teapots, as he leaned back in his wicker chair. This cools very hot tea. He went easy on the sugar and I really enjoyed the taste from the tea leaves. Another question he brought up was “Will Georges visit you in America?” He pointed out this would be natural in his role as your collaborator.

When we got to Dana on our way home, the director had the father of the crippled boy there and a community person to help with the conversation. I copied down the information I had gotten from the International Handicapped Foundation next to the Peace Corps bureau in Ouagadougou. I suggested the father take his son there after the holidays are over, as many offices are closed before then. They seemed open to this idea.

Back home I visited Sampoko in the early evening. Salam, the chef of that quartier showed me where Mariam's roof caved in and he needs corrugated metal to replace it. His sister was visiting and asked me for a tank top. She had heard about the new tops for everyone. That evening after dinner, I found a VOA radio station playing Christmas music. Reading my book and listening to holiday music was good for my soul.

24 December 08

I set about cleaning my house in preparation for lots of company on Noel, as I will be cooking most of tomorrow. Later that day Georges brought over the two cocks and some vegetables, part of the Christmas menu I had asked for. Connie called to chat about her February trip to visit me, and said Michael can't come due to his new job. She said the Pacific North West has been covered in snow for over two weeks now. It is a pretty unusual change of weather.

After 9pm I went with the Kiemtore' family to our church, arriving early for the midnight services. It was already full of people. Florescent lights were strung up and most people had a flashlight in hand too. The drumming was very nice as was the singing. My favorite chant was “Noel, Noel” at the very end of the service.

CHRISTMAS DAY IN VILLAGE

Zanabou and I pedaled 3K to church and this time it was not packed. Within a half hour it was filling up though. The choir had all matching attire, all the singers and even the drummers. It added to the spirit of the festivities. During the final song, one elder started dancing up towards the altar, and soon was joined by a whole line of other happy followers, singing, clapping and dancing. Holidays are social and exciting for Africans. (See photos.)

Back home the neighbor kids helped me cut up vegetables, tomatoes, green pepper, onions and garlic for tomato sauce. Abdoulaye cut up the roosters for me to fry. Next I prepared a big pasta casserole with salmon and cheese sauce. Peas and tomatoes gave Christmas colors to the dish. By then I had company, four young men from Sala: Karim, my Moringa counterpart, Issaka, president of the soccer team, Saidou, translator, and Ali. I gave them Planter peanuts as an hors d'oeuvre. Soon enough food was ready to feed the first group of visitors. Aminata and Abdoulaye ate then too, with Aminata taking her big dish of food outside to feed all the neighbor youngsters. Minata brought over the three Kilos of rice she cooked for me to serve the tomato sauce over.

Other groups of people came for dolo and food. Koumhou came from the chef's compound. Then the chef came himself to partake. It was very pleasant. Others came all afternoon, and Minata brought some people in she had gathered. I took a picture of each group as we all laughed with glee. Finally Georges' family came to the gathering, which was very fun. When Angie called I had her talk with Georges and she understood him. I talked to everyone at the Hayes home for most of an hour. It capped Noel for me. By 11pm everyone was gone and I went to bed thinking it was such a beautiful day sans gifts, purely religious and social. I liked it.

27 December 08

The previous day Karim, Saidou and I practiced our sensibilisation for malaria, set for 8am under the big tree downhill by the road from me. In about an hour enough people had gathered that we were encouraged to begin our talk with 30 women, 20 men and 25 children. We talked about the signs of malaria and the urgency one needs to respond to those signs, as it can become grave quickly. We talked about prevention, especially using moustiquaire. The chefs, Adama and Hamadou fielded some of the questions. One woman, , the wife of Karim's older brother, responded to our questions too. I gave her a moustiquaire for her participation. See photo. (Unfortunately within a week she died of stomach malady.) We finished the presentation talking about the benefits of our Moringa project, and gave two trees to the village chef. Saidou and Karim hung out a while at my house.

Then a group of people who hadn't come on Christmas arrived for visiting over food and drink. Deacon Maxime, George's brother and Georges also brought Koala Jean for the holiday meal. I made a green salad, heated up the rice and sauce, along with the chicken, and that wrapped up the Xmas meal. We also polished off the remainder of the 5 Kilos of milange. Minata and Sampoko joined us, as Koala Jean is brother to Sampoko. It was a good time!

Midafternoon I tried to nap, but soon had more visitors, the Major's sons Abdoulaye and Zacharias, also my friend Issa, came to chat. Then some villagers came to buy Moringa trees that we had discussed at the sensibilisation that morning. Then the chicken I had tied to my porch escaped a couple times, adding excitement to a busy day.

The next day my highlights came via the phone. Heather phoned me. It was Glory's birthday too. Then Sr. Mary called me from the CREN and invited me to surprise birthday party for Sister Aimie on January 1. She also asked to speak to Georges and asked him to come for a meeting for a security job at the CREN the next day.

30 December 08

This morning is the malaria sensibilisation at the Ipala quartier. On the way there, we stopped at Karim's house to greet his brother the Doctor from Ouagadougou, who had been to the US for 10 days in mid-December visiting NIH for grant money to fight malaria. He thanked me profusely for coming here and said he knows how much I gave up to come here. His sense is that it is very important to share information and exchange cultures.

When we got to the big tree at Ipala quartier for the causerie, no one was there. The chef of Ipala quartier pedaled up on his bicycle and it was obvious he had cut a gash in his foot on his pedal. He waited for water to clean it with and some traditional medicine to apply for healing it. “Na-manegb Zanga” looked like black tiny poppy seeds. He covered the wound with that and a bandage. I could tell it hurt.

By an hour later sufficient people had come, to begin with 26 women, 8 men and 8 children. The questions today centered around the number available and the cost of moustiquaires for all the villagers. I gave one out for a woman who seemed to answer a lot of questions. I also passed out two balls of soap, which pleased those women too. We gave the Ipala chef 2 Moringa trees and sold two more to villagers there.

I had Georges review my COGES report for proper French and we went to see if there would be a group meeting today, but the Major was the only person there. After an hour we left and Georges suggested we go visit Koala Jean at his place. We had a good visit. He had been a counselor to the last chef of Thyou, and enjoyed that work. He wants to run for office in the near future. He is well regarded in village.

31 December 08 NEW YEAR'S EVE

This is another big celebration for Burkinabe'. When we went to the market to Yvette's hangar she invited me to come tonight to her place for dancing and singing on this New Year's Eve. I told her that we had a family event at Georges parents home planned. Laurentine was shopping for condiments for the evenings meals, and I wanted pasteque (watermelon) which was in the produce section of market. My left leg was hurting so I asked others to do my shopping. I went home to pack a bag for staying the night at the elder Kiemtores tonight so that I don't risk riding home in the dark. I sat in the evening moonlight and watched Laurentine prepare Riz Gras in a big marmite (kettle) over an open fire. Meanwhile about 8 of us played a long game of Uno, and then at 10:30pm dinner was served on big trays with rice and chicken and sauce. Henry led a long grace thanking God for last year and the ones to come. After the meal the children wanted to dance. Georges put on his tapes in his big stereo radio combo. He and his girls and Claude were dancing and soon it was midnight and 2009.

Laurentine prepared another chicken and marinated the cucumbers and..... Voila! We ate again, the traditional after midnight meal. It was New Year's under the stars in Africa and a very fun time with friends!