Monday morning I went to the clinic and greeted the staff and saw many patients there. The Major arrived to greet the Medical Chief of District, who drove here from Sapouy with an assistant. They were there to collect the immunization statistics from the Tetanus Campaign over the past weekend. A long discussion ensued about the specifics especially from the satellite villages. The head nurse, Philippe hastened to respond to all questions. In 20 minutes the officials left with the data. Health care in Burkina Faso has local controls, with the caveat that the numbers are gathered by the state for planning and analysis.
The next day I sorted the student letters from USA into three piles and delivered them. I went to the school in Sala and gave Zongo Tanga the letters and drawings in order for his class to write to the sixth graders at Harmony Elementary. By noon we delivered a set to L'ecole Centre and Yargo, schools in Thyou. We returned to Sala clinic to discuss with the Major the wish list of medical supplies for the health center, as Angie's hospital(SWWMC) offered to donate. She will bring them when she comes to visit the end of this month. The Major invited us to lunch on spaghetti with pintade and yogurt with him It was very good.
The chef of Sune' had sent a rooster to us in appreciation of the HIV-AIDS talk there. My neighbor boy, Abdoulaye came in the afternoon to prepare the fowl for me. I fried it and basted it with barbecue sauce. I made baking powder biscuits and cole slaw to have dinner ready when Jonathan came in the evening with his guitar and his contribution of chili. Abdoulaye and Issouf, his students, Jonathan and I enjoyed the meal. Afterwards Jon began playing and singing; suddenly the neighbor children came in large numbers to my house for the jam session. I recorded it plus took pictures.
At the maternity unit after baby weighing that week we presented the final talk on prenatal care. I felt several babies were very hot, so the staff sent those mothers and infants to the clinic for exam. The talk was “Post Partum Visit and Signs of PP Infection”. 30-35 women attended. Both nurses, Emilie and Bibata supplemented what we explained and some women engaged in question/answer discussion. My friend Atia from Zao, a small village 15K away, came to visit me and waited for our presentation to finish. We went to my home to chat. I provided her with some supplies she needs before we went to the market.
On Friday I noticed some neighbor kids were at home rather than in school. Hamadou, family chef, said they were sent home by the principal due to unpaid tuition. There were five in all, and the cost per school year is 4.5 mille, about $5. On my way to the bush taxi station to check on my pkg many kids came up to talk with me, sang the song of brushing the teeth. They were in front of the new boutique building nearby and we sang and took photos.
On Saturday I shared the medical evaluation report on Seni Pele' with both the Major and Gilbert, a medical staff with a similar leg mobility problem as Pele'. Gilbert said that since his own surgery which straightened his leg, he now gets around on crutches and his three wheel moto very well. In fact I have marveled at his adaptation skills as he administers medical IVs, injections, and other medical procedures to clients at the clinic. Plus he's a poster person for polio vaccinations.
The next Tuesday at the school hangar in Bouyou, we conducted a hygiene lesson with 60 young school children. This year the hangar has new sides on the structure. The director and students were waiting for our arrival 11K into the bush. As we set up our posters and materials, the director had the children sing the chant we taught them last time. We took time talking with them about the benefits of good dental care and diet. They were very attentive as we demonstrated teeth brushing with natural and modern means. Then 8 volunteers repeated the demonstration well, although one girl's gums bled badly. I brought a new toothbrush for each student and also photos from our last time there. Nebie' Amie, a health liaison in village came to greet us and wondered if we would be presenting to the adults. We stopped by THE village tree where folks gather and greeted the handful of people who were there. They insisted we come back in the future to visit. What a special village this is! On our way home we stopped at the neighboring village school to leave more student letters and visit the staff there.
This week little Sofi, 6, has an infected gouge in her shin from falling off a bike, so we soaked it and applied an ointment and bandage. It took nearly a week to see healing, with time to put her foot up and rest.
On Wednesday I went to water the trees at the school garden. My counterpart Karim had dug holes for more planting, so the students helped me out with watering and planting. He had replaced several fence posts. We had wire to tie the fence to the posts, which is a must with cattle roaming around.
Before I left for Ouaga, Minata showed me how to make porridge, using millet. I practiced with adding Moringa powder to the millet to enrich it for malnourished infants.
Social Services in Burkina Faso
An overview of social welfare in Burkina Faso suggests that it is in early developing stages or there is within the Burkinabe' culture built in responses to the identified needs of the society. This raises the question: Is aiding the disadvantaged the responsibility of a culture's people or of their government, or some other entity?
The health system in Burkina Faso, for more than 15 years, has been striving to improve maternal health by encouraging prenatal care and birthing to occur at local health centers. In these centers many problems can be identified early and birthing risks reduced for both mother and infant. In the same vein immunizations, and early diagnoses of malaria, HIV-AIDS, elephantiasis, tuberculosis are also available to villagers. Due to poverty many families can't afford to come to clinic, even though prenatal and delivery cost 800 francs ($1.50) plus medications.
The physically handicapped (young and old) are visible in every town and village on crutches, sometimes self fashioned canes, and three wheel cycles with the chain propelled by one's arms. I met a ten year old boy living in a small village, he has a severely deformed leg and hops along with the assistance of a metal rod. The doctors said his ankle was separated from his leg during his birth at home. The solution is complex, his family can't afford to travel 40 kilometers to the hospital and stay there for surgery. They also struggle with the decision of amputation and prosthesis.
Frequently if not always the elderly live out their days in the family compound, thereby warding off loneliness. Small children children guide blind adults wherever. Poor water quality can lead to vision defects especially in newborns and aging villagers. My eight year old neighbor girl has been cross-eyed since birth. According to the doctors the condition is no longer treatable. People with total hearing loss mimic sound while using very graphic gestures and body language to be understood. Sometimes their deafness is mistaken for mental illness.
The culture and the communities of Burkina Faso take care of their own. People in the village with mental health or addiction issues live among the villagers. When their condition or behaviors affect others, they often are ignored or guided away. I was attending Mass when a member of the congregation was praying loudly but not in union with the priest, who was not dissuaded by this variation. Citizens accept her as a part of the social fabric. The afflicted belong to and are treated like village brethren.
Orphans and elders are included into the midst of a family and are treated with the same respect and dignity as members of the greater family. Nearly every family raises shirttail relatives. The elderly share their oral histories with the younger generations, thus preserving tradition and stories of family, history and culture. Whatever is asked of a Burkinabe', they are bound by cultural norms to give according to their ability. Truly it takes a village to raise a child.
Hunger and poverty are widespread. Desperate people beg for help, sometimes on street corners and sometimes at the markets and sometimes on your doorstep. One day my landlady/friend came to me and said “I sent the children to work in the field with lunch of millet and sauce from last night's dinner and have nothing to eat 'myself'.”
When property crime happens in villages it seldom comes to the attention of officials. But the villagers often hold the thief accountable. All news spreads fast by word of mouth. As I rode my bicycle one day, my fanny pack was stolen by two motorcycle thieves. My shouting brought out the neighbors, who captured and held one thief until police arrived. The neighbors retrieved my purse and its contents intact.
As a visitor and Peace Corps Volunteer, I observed the immense harmony and integrity that binds Burkina Faso people together. There is a unique construct for social services here and it is strongly ingrained at the village level.
Early on my birthday we set out on the bush taxi for Ouaga: Pele', Mathieu, and me to get the results of the evaluation from the Handicap Organization. Georges joined us in Sabou to translate information with the medical team. I went further into Ouaga to pick up the x-rays needed for the doctor's review and joined the others at the clinic in Goughin sector.
Dr. Yago explained to us that since there is no function in Pele's right foot, the most advisable procedure is for Pele' to have his right foot amputated below the knee, with the prospect of an appliance for walking. His older brother Mathieu, asked questions and there was much discussion before the doctor wrote a prescription for surgery. The social worker said Pele' and family should travel to Koudougou for that. The X-rays and Radiologist report were given to the brothers with the plan to discuss everything with their family and make a decision. Then we went next door where they fitted Pele' for crutches. We found lunch nearby and walked a long distance back to the main route so the brothers could take the bush taxi back to village and then pedal 10K to their home.
I made a vanilla cake and purchased Nutella spread to top my birthday cake at the Transit House, where PCVs sang to me and we enjoyed a snack together. Every Friday morning early is the ceremony at Moro-Naba Castle in Ouaga. This event is presided over by the highest village chef in Burkina Faso. A beautiful and tall chestnut horse with white sox is saddled and at rest in velvet robes outside the gates of the castle. Contingents of chiefs from every sector in Ouaga participate in this weekly tradition. At precisely 8am the main chief enters in red regal robes (sign of war). The drums roll and a canon is fired. The area chiefs come forward in groups to salute the head chief, and later he leaves to change. He reappears in white robes (sign of peace). Applause erupts and the canon again fires. The reenactment of history of this region of West Africa is powerful.
On the weekend the Food Security Committee met for a marathon meeting covering gardening, past and future plans, and my presentation on nutrition, this time devoted to an example of enriched porridge (bouille) for malnourished infants. My sample however had started to ferment in the heat, much like local beer (dolo). I had planned to provide samples until that point, however two brave souls wanted to taste it irregardless. We had a good laugh! The group disbanded early due to the soccer match between BF and Malawi late that afternoon. Crazy fans were in costume there, and we PCVs were happy to see the national sport in person while still there.
On Monday I packed up to return to village with my ten packages from USA full of donations for villagers, plus box mixes for my dutch oven. I made a stop at the travel agency downtown to book airfare to Senegal when Angela arrives this coming week. I wrote a check for over one million francs, WOW! The bush taxi was late, so that put me back in village at dark. I enlisted the aid of two men, to each take 3 boxes to my house for me. Once there I sent two neighbor boys back for 2 boxes each. I was content to get all boxes home, and pass out long awaited items, soccer shoes and balls, jump ropes, lights, baking mixes, pictures, and many other things.
End of November
When I got to the Major's home to talk with him about the COGES role in the community, Gansonre was there visiting. He had been our head nurse when I arrived in village and soon became the Major for Dala, a village down the road and further SE of ours.
Zachariah had dug around all the Moringa trees and built a depression circle to retain the water. The petite forest is next door between the Major's home and the Maternity clinic. We visited the midwife, who promised to text me before the next baby is born. I so want to be present for a birth in Sala. The medical staff, Gilbert took the written translation of the last medical visit for Seni Pele to his family when he went to Dana on Friday for vaccinations.
Dicko, a school teacher and Issaka, president of the young men's soccer group, each came over for their special soccer shoes. I gave shin guards, gloves, balls, and cones for the group. They have a big game this Friday and were very happy for the contribution made possible by the generosity of Americans at home.
At the school we talked with Madelenne,the new Directress about the Moringa project there, and she agreed to have the students water the trees everyday. She also pointed out weaknesses in the fence. We showed her how the students can dig around each tree for water containment. Tanga, another teacher gave me student letters for Angela to take to America when she returns there. That gives me a chance to practice my French, translating them. I began reading my new book “The Secret Knowledge of WATER” by Craig Childs, two easy ways to die in the desert, thirst and drowning. This seems apt as Burkina is close to the Sahel, and south of the vast Sahara.
On Thursday I made my way to the Ouaga travel agency to pick up our tickets to Senegal, and also exchange dollars for francs. I took a taxi to Karite' Bleu where Angela and I will spend the night after she arrives at 6pm. My Peace Corps driver, Idrissa and his wife, Awa drove me to the airport to get Angela and her luggage, which included a giant suitcase full of medical equipment and supplies her hospital, SWWMC donated to Sala's clinic. Her USA eye doctor Cole, donated $300 for stethoscopes, blood pressure cuffs etc. too. Networking warms the heart! It was exhilarating to see my daughter after two years. At our Bed and Breakfast we ordered in a pizza, visited and slept well.
Friday we enjoyed a continental breakfast on the patio and watched the exotic pair of birds in the yard.
We got Ang a loaner bike and rode to the PC bureau and meet all the staff there. I worked a bit on the computer and printed the email from Chris with a contact in Dakar who would host us for the coming week. We flew there that evening and Issa picked us up and took us to stay at his auntie's house. She's traveling abroad, so we had the house to ourselves with the housekeeper, Soulemaa (a Burkinabe'). This gave Ang the opportunity to practice Moore' greetings all week in preparation for returning to my village. We caught a cab to downtown Dakar and ran across AlaBama, who acted as our guide the rest of the day. We walked to the president's palace, watched changing of the guard, then onto a Cathedral, and finally the Sandaga market. We watched kids braid ropes out of thread on half block long-amazing! We shopped like tourists, visiting a tailor shop and ordering some items. 
We saw cute mini-buses escorting people around town. Every street corner in Dakar had dozens, sometimes hundreds of sheep (goats) and we found out they were for Tabaski, a big Moslem feast on Saturday. Customarily every family buys one for the holiday meal. We lunched mid-afternoon on rice and Mafe' sauce, a meaty groundnut sauce.
Saturday evening we set out to find Senegalese drummer music, the kind Ang had experienced in New York city when she worked there as a traveling nurse. We arrived at “Just4u” to find the Orchestra Baobob playing a salsa dance rhythm, catering to my age group. Then we tried “Madison” which had lots of drumming and singing (mbalax music) for the younger crowd. Neither was quite what we were looking for. (I wasn't to find that until I returned to USA and in Seattle.)
Sunday morning while having our omelet sandwich, we observed a man harvesting leaves nearby. Then there was a horse drawn cart typical of transport of cargo within the city of Dakar.
As we photographed these, men having their morning coffee conversed with us about what's up? and Obama-always about Obama. Africans across the continent are so proud of his heritage. That afternoon Issa accompanied us to a private beach, Voille D'or, on the east side of the Dakar peninsula. We had a lovely afternoon on the Atlantic napping on mats in white sand, snacking, and swimming. We continued onto another aunt's home, Seeley, who had returned from New York this week and was happy to meet us. She supports a Senegalese restaurant in NY and her cuisine was excellent, a platter of roasted chicken and rice baked in Mave' sauce.
Tuesday we ferried over to the nearby Goree' Island, where we had a quaint French room with a balcony overlooking the cobblestone path below. We toured the house of the slaves, “Maison des Esclaves”, where 14 million slaves arrived and 6 million more died enroute due to disease and bad treatment. We viewed scales, a fattening room (69Kg minimum), 3 rooms for men, a room for children, a room for young women, punishment room (hold 2-3 men and they couldn't stand erect), and waiting rooms on two corridors. There was an opening called “Gate of No Return” on the ocean side, where the slaves boarded the ships, with a plank extended to enter the ship. Our guide took us to the Catholic Church and showed us a written apology offered to the slaves by Pope Jean Paul II posted in the sanctuary. We ate another famous Senegalese meal for dinner, Yassa Poulet, chicken with plantain sauce. Sleeping on this small island, we awoke to birds singing and church bells ringing. We walked up the hill to the Castel where a canon was perched to protect the small island. The view of Dakar was especially nice from there.
Back in the city Wednesday we dined with Brandy and her husband Herman and son, Carter. Brandy has worked in Africa four years in Cameroon, Gambia and now for a Non Governmental Organization, US Aid, coordinating a development program. Herman is a musician and three and one half year old Carter goes to International Pre-school. He speaks French with a true nasal sound already. Our mutual friend said we would enjoy the visit and we did. As we returned to the airport we noticed the traffic slowing and the crowd gathering for the visit from Iran's president. Then his motorcade passed by on the freeway going into Dakar.
People were getting ready for Tabaski, washing goats, getting new clothes and hair treatments. There was a festive atmosphere in the air. Meanwhile back in BF the Moslems celebrated a day earlier. We took a bush taxi to Sala, my village and the kids helped us up the path with the baggage. There were many neighbors waiting to meet Angela and they laughed when she greeted them in Moore'. She greeted both family chiefs and the village chief, plus the Major and midwife the next day, with token gifts for them all. We went to St Irene's Church where she greeted more people. She was fascinated by the bakery (boulangerie) and videoed the process.
We continued on to market day in Thyou and found pork sandwich on baguette for lunch. My friend Achille arrived from KDG to visit. When school was in session, Angela brought soccer balls for all the boys and jump ropes for all the girls to use together. She brought pen pal letters from USA to Sala school for the students.
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